mellow65

These aren't from the early legacys, these came out of a 97 single port phase 1 ej22. But yeah I'm still coming up with no good information about these specifically. I'll just go hit the junk yard and grab a spare set. Thanks!!

I have a question about some injectors I pulled from a parts engine, it was a 96-97 legacy 2.2 and they came with grey top injectors. All my searching tells me there were really early grey tops, then red tops for a long time, but no one really talks about the later grey tops. It looks like they were standard issue in the early 1.8 and 2.2 imprezas. Does anyone have any information about these? Mainly flow rates. I'm looking to replace some red top injectors in my 94, and the fact the later grey tops are almost half the cost of the red tops new, makes me wonder what the specs are on them. I'm trying to avoid ending up with something with a lower fuel rate, and I can not find any real information about these injectors. I did at least see some people running the grey tops in place of the red tops, so I do at least know it's possible. THANKS!!!

To you, or someone else?

It's the double hump that adds the extra capacity.

Does anyone know if a lego gas tank will bolt into an early impreza? I'm wanting to ditch my small gas tank in favor of the larger tank from the legacy, but I'm not sure if they will bolt in do to possibly the floor pan being different. Thanks

There is nothing left of the Mazda heating system. What I'm replacing it with is a basically a heater core with a squirrel cage fan behind it. I'm making do with what I have in front of me.

I was pretty sure I knew that it had to flow consistently, I just want double check. Oddly enough what I had drawn up today in cadd while i was bored at work was basically what ended up being a 4 port heater valve. It allows flow to happen 100% of the time, it just either runs it through the heater core or it loops back to the engine. Either I'll explore the 4 port valve or I'll explore something with a valve in a T. Sorry for the lame picture, but this is what I drew. The red arrow indicates a valve that could swing between the two openings. With some online searching, most Ford rangers, areostars had those factory, although controlled by a vacuum actuator so I may try to find one that is manually controlled. 1st gen Mazda Rx7, and I'm putting a summit heater box in it.

I have swapped a EJ into another car and currently have the tubes that normally run to the heater core looped back into themselves, because I have not figure out my heating system in the car. I'm wondering if those tubes need to flow constantly or is it possible to use a restrictive valve to control the flow to the heater core, in turn reducing the amount of heat in the car? Or am I going to need to figure out a way to keep the coolant flowing but still keep the hot coolant out of the heater core?

if i remember it was some nissan one. It's on a collar that he made to work with the stock clutch fork.

Yeah the bell housing was the key to all this magic. It was made by a great guy named Bill Hincher, he made a build thread for it somewhere, but I can't seem to find the thread for it right now. It's the same bell housing monstaru is using in his toyota truck. The set up was subaru, flywheel, starter, pressure plate, pilot bearing, clutch fork and slave cylinder. From the toyota it used the disc. But all off the shelf stuff.

I have had a couple moment of just saying eff it with all the other crap going on right now. But I figure if i just plug away here and there i'll get there eventually. here you go.

The trans was a bolt on with the Subaru to Toyota bell housing.

Nothing huge really. The engine is out and in the garage right now. I have the intake off because I had a fair share of broken vacuum tubes and all that fun jazz. But what I'm finding is the harness under the intake is rather crunchy and every time I move it, it seems to break more and more. I found a glued on button from a rebuild shop on the motor that tells me at some point in it's life it's been replaced. So I'm wondering if the old motor might have gotten really hot and cooked the harness. I know a couple guys that do small wiring work and going to see what they would charge me to just redo that part of the harness. That or I might do it, but something need to be done with it regardless. Other then the wiring, the crunchy hoses are breaking if I look at them wrong. So once again, that needs to be dealt with. Away from the engine, I'm trying to figure out a way of adding another U joint to the steering shaft. Because of the bigger heads I'm now going to have to run the shaft partly through the frame rail, and with that I'm needing to mix what I have with what is out there in the aftermarket. I have kicked around the idea of talking with an axle shop that I used to re-drill my axles. They told me they could put any spline on any shaft, that way I could just use the stock joints and just put it together that way. But the main reason I haven't been out in the garage to much is all this school for engineering is hard!! I'm spending 6 days a week at school and I need to give the 7th to the girlfriend or I'm sure she will dump my butt. I'm drawing it all out in my head and putting it on paper, so when I do get some time I should be ready to go.

Awesome!!! I want to put one of those in the Mazda.

Get er done!!