mellow65

it been covered a billion time here but it's always worth saying once more. subarus are picky about there wires. don't get your local parts store cheapo brands, get dealer or find someone selling NGK, plugs and wires. you will thank your self later when your not trying to figure out a hesitation problem.

generally warrantys are not people specific but car specific. if you have the VIN you can call the dealer service and give it to them and see if it's something that would be covered. i haven't dealt with subaru specifically for warranty stuff but i just had a cat replaced under warranty at a mazda dealer. the car didn't have plates, it wasn't registered to me and hell the car was pretty damn rough, but they replaced the cat free of charge and didn't ask anything about the car. just a name and number from me so they could call me when it was done

99 and newer forester and impreza 2.5rs had the phase 2 ej25 and 00 and newer legacys did. mine was from a 99 forester. things to keep in mind that i learned after the fact and i can't edit my post on the USRM, i guess all ej25 cam pullys and crank pullys are not all the same in the amount of teeth that the sensors read. mine is from a 99 so at least in the first years they shared the same number of teeth as the older legacy. but i have heard of some of the newer ones having more or less or in different places not sure, but being different regardless and not running is the end result. contact delta cam, they are a vendor on here, talk to them about their regrinds. What they does is regrinds, not new ones so it's way cheaper. I'm not going to share what my sponsored price was, but even his normal price is good for what he does and he has a really quick turn around. i mailed them to him monday i had them back friday. and sometimes they have specials in the vendor section. for a normal street car i would maybe do the lower of the two regrinds, i know i said the highest but that was on the rally car and i wanted as much as i could. most of my power comes on in the upper RPMs but they have a grind that will improve an all over RPMs. you just have to know that ej25s need to breath. I have my header with a 2.25 output and a 2.5 all the way back. I think the 2.5 would be a little much for a street car, but it's what i had and i used it and i like it on my rally car. I think 2.25 would make you happy. also a phase 2 ej25 in a old legacy will not give you a working idle air control, the thing that bumps your idle up when you start your car cold or you turn on your ac. it's not bad to deal with, it might be a little bit of a pain in a street car. you just need to plan more time in the morning to let your car warm up before you drive away. once warm, it's not an issue. i have seen guys deal with this in different ways, some look a little odd but they do work. for me cold starts were the least of my worries. if you have any questions feel free to ask. i have now 3 rallys with this motor and am super happy, i would never go back to the 2.2 because of the power alone. also your gas mileage jumps, even with my cams just normal everyday driving around i was getting upper 20s way more then any of my other legacys. good luck

i'll jump in here because i seem to be brought up a couple time on my swap. those that say you wont feel the difference in power between a 2.2 and 2.5 are filling you full you BS. it's freaking amazing the difference between them. when i first did my swap i had all stock motor and a crappy exhaust and even though you knew there was more power it didn't feel as great as i was expecting. you need to get that 2.5 breathing better, first things first you send your cams up to Delta cam and get the highest regrind they have. second you get your self a much better exhaust then what comes on there factory. one thing to keep in mind, is most the headers out there are designed for the newer routing of exhaust where it does this crazy turn under the motor VS the older pretty strait out approach. i made my own header out of a stock one, it's ugly as F but it's strong as hell and flows tons better. i have driven a bunch of subarus, from GLs to STIs, mine is in the legacy turbo range of speed, and any one thinking i'm full of crap i have a passenger seat with your name on it. and also to the people that think the 2.5s are a POS, yes and no, they just were given crappy parts, with the newer parts you can make them good. no not ej22 indestructible but better then stock. i have been beating the piss out my phase 2 ej25 this last year and am totally happy with it. i do think the phase 2 ej25 is better then the phase 1 but they all just get a bad wrap.

the picture you show is the subaru factory oil cooler. and from what i have read really aren't a bad cooler till you start making major HP. there is supposed to be coolant running through that cooler. you should have a pipe running from your thermostat housing to the cooler then from the cooler to the block. it could be possible that it cracked and pushing oil into your coolant. but i would keep it rather then trying to bypass it. finding used ones are pretty easy, all SS should have them. all wrxs have them, i think it was 99 and newer auto foresters had them. you might have to get the matching hoses for what ever year/model you get the new cooler from, as with different models they moved the pipes around

ok from what i gathering you did a rwd set up on your 4 speed, (basically remove front axles and leave in 4wd) if that's the case you could run any rear ratio available in the r160s 3.54s, 3.70s, 3.90s, 4.11s and 4.44s. if you are talking about putting a lsd in with working 4wd you will need to get a gear ratio that matches your front. you should have 3.90. you have two options when it comes to lsds, the legacy turbo viscus goo lsd (not the best) or the much better clutch lsd from the older GL turbos. you can only use those two because you need the stub shaft that comes out of the diff so you can mount your axle to them. the newer style viscus goo lsds style take the axle into the diff it's self and is rationed by a clip. one other thing to note is you can put the viscus goo lsd or the GL turbo lsd in any gear ratio r160. for example i put a clutch lsd from a late 80s turbo in a 98 auto outback with a set of 4.44s. i also did the front diff to match too. i have done these so many times now i need to take some pictures one of these times. there is plenty on swapping to the 3.9 but not 4.11s or 4.44s. the process isn't any different, it's just the newer diff housings need to be grinded on just a little bit to fit the larger LSD.

all the rally's are in the NW here, oregon, washington and maybe idaho if i can afford it. pm me if you are really interested, i have a small break down of what all this costs. but you have some gear so that helps in the initial costs.

My last codriver has decided to focus on school and become all educated so that leaves a lack of a person in my passenger seat. I'm looking for someone that really can commit to giving codriveing 110% when at the rallys. As a driver our brains shuts off as soon as the weekend starts, so you need to be the team captain, keep things running on time, planning our time accordingly. Must have a strong stomach, codriving is not for the weak stomached. My last codriver threw up 6 times at the last rally from motion sickness (one of the other reasons he was done too). Also there is a financial and time investment needed. Safety gear needs to be bought. I still have all my old codrivers stuff so we could work something out about getting his stuff used. Some may know me from the old green legacy that i ran this year. We had a great time in that but I wanted to try something else. I wanted the challenge of a rwd so i bought a rally truck. Different to say the least but fun as hell and with a pretty cool history. So in a nut shell if you have great organization, the time and money to give to the sport and a strong stomach, shoot me a email and we can do some more talking. mellow65@gmail.com thanks the legacy from wild west this year the truck from mt hood that i will be running with this next year

for me it's when you can't get the old lady to come out to shop at 2 am when it's 40 degrees out that make them worth it.

what rweddy said, but subaru tried to fix the external leaks on the phase 2 motors with a antifreeze additive. it was basically subaru brand bars leak. if you replace the head gaskets with newer style head gaskets and get new bolts and run their additive you shouldn't have any issues with head gaskets again. me i personally have the $200 damn near bullet proof head gasket set up (not including installation). get your self a set of cometic head gaskets and a set of arp head studs total for both head gaskets and studs were right around $200. i did a lot of reading about cometic, they make gaskets for some crazy cars running major boost with no problems. so i figured on my lowly 2.5na motor i will never see the pressures they were designed for, and then the arp head studs, as a buddy of mine that builds motors says, "they just wont let the head gasket blow". i have been running the piss out of this combo on my rally car, no signs of leaks in or out. i did just for the hell of it i did run the subaru additive. this is the recipe that will go into any 2.5 i own that needs gaskets in the future.

i have used them on many cars, i love them, it's one of the first "mods" i do to a car. makes it amazingly easy to flush the whole system. took me less then 10 min to flush and bleed my legacy last time.

i added a viscus goo lsd to my legacy and normal driving i couldn't tell the difference. i tried to run my clutch lsd but had to drop that idea because it was making some crazy noises so i can't say what that one would drive like.

i'm sure it would drive a little weird, can't speak from experience but any welded rear diff is going to drive different. and pulling an axle would make it even more weird because power would still be sent to the one axle and try to push you only from one side. you could always just run a lsd.

the manuals work nothing like the autos. the center diff is basically a viscus goo LSD, under normal driving power is sent to both ends evenly, but the center diff works just like a LSD to try and send even power to each end regardless if one end is slipping or not. they are pretty fool proof, you don't have to engage anything it does it all on it's own. if you know old stuff think of an older rx awd with a center diff lock, replace the center diff lock with a viscus goo center diff and bam newer style awd

it used to be like 80 but was updated by subaru to 120 something. the 80 could allow for crank wobble but the updated torque spec fixed it. just crank it down to 120 and call it good. i have done tons like this and never had an issue. if you want to take one step farther put a drop of blue thread lock on it. it's not the hard core red stuff but should be just that little extra insurance that you will probably never need

yeah there are much cheaper options then a $700 drive shaft. if it's just your u joint replace it, i don't think subaru will tell you you can but i have heard of people having drive line shops doing it. and then also what ed said about finding a junk yard, i got a whole drive line for $40 it looked brand new. do more checking before slapping down $700 for a new one.

nope not going to work. the manual drive lines are longer then the autos.

unfortunately you can't go this way with trannys, you can go newer into older but not older into newer not unless you swap over to a cable clutch. two problems, no bolt holes for the clutch slave cylinder and no second hole for clutch fork. here are some pictures one from a 03 rs tranny and one from a 91 legacy. 03 rs, you can see the extra bolt holes 91 legacy, no bolt holes

don't worry about that, it only an issue of cracking blocks when all the water passages are full with water and then it freezes and the ice has no where to expand and it cracks your block. if you have little pockets of water here and there in your motor there isn't anything to worry. you could rotate the motor on your stand a few times to get any little water that is left out, but i think that would be over kill

you should be fine the way it is. you might get some lite cylinder wall rust but probably not any thing to worry about. if it was me and i was planning on doing something to it ie, rebuild, head gasket, something. i would take the heads off and give a good coating of wd40 to the cylinders and a good coating to most everything. you just can't go wrong with a good coating of wd40.

in or out of a car?

the red line 75/90 NS. make sure you get the NS because it doesn't have any friction modifiers added to it. If you read about it on their website it makes kind of makes sense about the lack of friction modifiers helping the synchros come to speed faster. i figured there was one way of calling their BS was to try it. and i must say in every tranny i have used it in, shifting was much better and took away a second gear grind on multiple trannys.

1. very easy, if you know what you are doing in a rear diff. i just did this swap yesterday (to a clutch style, but the same process). things you might want to think about, is resetting your backlash. 2. yes and no, it is nice to have a lsd out back, but how much are you really going to use it. if you have a stock impreza i'm thinking you have the 2.2 and in the real world i don't think you will see an improvement. the viscus goo diffs work like you center diff and can take up to a 180 degree "slippage" before it will really grab. And still then it's not as good as a clutch lsd. 3.4. i really wouldn't waste your money on any of those. if you want to do a good lsd on the cheap, find a clutch lsd from an older turbo GL, like the mid 80s kind. swap out the clutch lsd into your rear diff plus a set of early 90s legacy rear axles and you are done. this will be way cheaper then buying any of the bling bling lsds out there and in my opinion just as good. that and you can still buy all the parts from subaru to rebuild them if need be. but you will never have to, they only came behind a whopping 100something horse power car and only half the power ever got sent to it. just remember the longer axle goes on the passenger side. :cool: good luck with your project

i have no idea what your talking about it's only taken a week to respond to this,

oh my god i was going through withdrawls not thinking i'm jiving the new look but what ever