mellow65

http://m.powerblocktv.com/episodes/XT2013-13 Sorry if this is the mobile site, I do all this from my phone. Go to 3 mins in. Do that kind of set up with the 3 way switch, but rather where it says to run to a temp sensor that will be the one you run to the ecu. The fuel pump thing was something I always took away from the rally rules. Basically you shouldn't have the fuel pump running other than when the engine is running. The thought is if you ball it up into a tree and break the car in half the last thing you want is the fuel pump constantly pumping gas out. Subaru ECUs do a great job taking care of all of that for you, no need to reinvent the wheel

I can give you the pin out for the fan control if you would like. that way you allow the computer to control the fan like it would in a normal car. Basically the computer controls the ground side of a relay. In my car I'm running the whole lego harness, chassis and engine so its all stock in mine. But you could simply add another small system for the fan, some wire, a relay and a fuse. Don't do a fuel pump switch, look at it this way, if something bad happens and you roll and you sever a fuel line and kill the engine, the ECU will kill the fuel pump, your switch wont.

Top one, that would be the ignition relay, like turn the key, this closes and puts power to the small wire on the starter, not needed if you wire it right. Also note that you need to put a cranking 12v to the ECU, it will come off of this, or I can help you with the pin. #2 Ignitor plug #3 brown main power relay, green plug fuel pump #4 crank sensor, cam sensor, knock sensor, O2 sensor, air flow sensor (make sure you get the aluminum tube for this because early ones like this were a 5 speed) Also make sure you have the flow sensor that matches your ECU, you will get a code saying wrong air flow sensor if you mess them up. #5 Alternator junk, you can take the two white wires straight to the battery. Also do yourself a favor and step up to the impreza/late 90s outback alts. You ditch one wire from the plug and more or less make a one wire alt, not unless you want a dummy light. And those two big plugs go to your intake harness and carry everything other then the pre mentioned plugs.

All the relays in that thing is for lights and AC stuff. Hell even the relays for the cooling fans are with the normal fuse panel inside the car. And think those big wires are supplying power for the whole car, you are only using a small part now.

Hmmmm reading that makes me a little concerned. First you don't need the fender fuse box and relays, there are only two relays needed for a swap, the fuel pump and main relay, they live side by side in the car and for fuses you can do a couple inline fuses to make everything happy. Second, short of a ground for the main relay, there should be no ground wires needed. The harness is all grounded at the engine block. Is this a lego one or an impreza? I'm just speaking from the experiance with the legos, and can't comment on the impreza stuff at all. So if thats what you have, press on.

just keep your eye open in the parts section of CL for someone parting out a lego and see if you can buy the whole thing. I have picked up a few dead motor, dead tranny, crunched in the rump roast, cars for $50 - 200. I even got one that just didn't run after someone broke into it and stole the radio, come to find out they pulled all the fuses too. put fuses in and it fired right up, almost felt bad stripping that one, but it was the heart of the mazda now, so you know, it lives on. also don't fret about grabbing an auto also, it's all the same wiring.

Yeah you totally run a NA motor on a stand alone but not unless you were running something crazy like some high compression motor running 9000rpm it's kind of pointless in my opinion. Snap some pics of the harness, mainly like the plugs, and for sure the ones at the ecu. We can figure out what you have. Remember you're going to need the matching intake to go with it.

The obd 1 stuff is as solid as it comes. And literally they will run anything you hook them up to. I ran a phase 2 ej25 on a stock ecu, I know people have ran a phase 1 ej25, earl was running his franken motor with something like 12:1 cr. even red devil was running something like mid 20s psi of boost with nothing more then a piggy back. They also have a good code flashing system and if you wanted even more there is that select monitor thing which was subarus attempt at a obd2 style connection pre obd2. I know you can even data logging with the select monitor thing. About the only thing that would be nice is if you were doing something like a wrx ecu, just because the super aftermarket avalible in ecu tuning ports.

find you a 90-94 lego harness and ship the bitch to me, i'll get it down to the bare bones. i'm on my like 6th harness ,that being earls, and that was a rush job to get it done before the WCSS, fired up first try.

Hey that's me!!!!!! I somewhat briefly laid out what it would take to fit a eg33, mainly, a lot of metal cutting, including the frame rails. Also the same thing for the DOHC heads, they are just big and start to get in the way of the steering shaft and frame rails. The compact ej22 heads really is what made the whole thing fit so well. this is the corner that you have all the issues, and you see how close it all to each other. It's close, but it all fits just perfect.

i wish something like an eg33 would fit in there, because that would be just awesome. But looking at that engine bay you're going to be tight with an ej22. what i was able to do on my mazda was basically put the bottom of the heads right above the frame rail. i just wonder how close that will get you to being lined up. i ordered a second bell housing from bill, so i'm shoving an eg33 in something, i don't know what yet, but damn it i'll make it fit in something fun.

That's what i have been waiting for.

the clutch slave has to be from like a 2.5rs style. NA hydraulic, same with the clutch fork.

I'd follow that thread.

It's kind of like my mazda swap, I feel like it should be on here but really doesn't belong.

When you get there make sure you post some pics.

Is the motor going to clear the frame and steering? It's the reoccurring issue with swapping a Subaru motor in something else.

have you ever seen a low boost NA motor? I'm wondering how it runs, I keep thinking a low boost turbo, normal compression set up on the mazdaru would be awesome.

not sure about what the guts can handle, but i can tell you the flaws in your swapping stuff. yes the y pipe will bolt up to the engine, but the cross member is different, the turbo cross member is notched for the pipe. the oil feed line is ran from a banjo bolt on the back of the passenger side head, not there on a NA motor. same goes with the oil return line, not there in a NA motor. sure all those things could be over come, but it probably would end up being cheaper and easier to just find a turbo car and have fun with that, or a turbo motor.

The fortunate thing as far as I know bills shifter can be located anywhere because it is going to utilize a Mitsubishi eclipse cable style shifter, so it will be about getting the cables the right length.

I'm still going to say its going to work. Even with the slight case differences. Let's just call it a redesign of the case for what ever reason, kind of like a supermodel wanting a little less nose, but still the same gal. Also the 2wd legacys share all the same clutch and flywheel bits with an awd. I'm just saying I have had so many combos of motor, tranny, flywheel and starter combos through out the years with out a single issue, if it came out of a legacy it will go in legacy just fine.

I really have no idea why they did different type of starters. I would think maybe the gear reduction on a higher compression motor, but there were non gear reduction starter on the same motors. Get on autozone.com and look up pictures of a starter for 2000 legacy outback with a 2.5 and an impreza with a 2.5. Both should be the same motor, but the outbacks got the gear reduction where the impreza didn't. But that being said both starters are interchangeable with each other yet look nothing alike. I have ran geared starters in old legacys and non geared starters in new motors and trannys. And in my honest opinion I like the non gear reduction starters better. Not unless you were building some monster compression 2.5 or doing a manual swap on a svx, the non geared starts spin the motor over just fine and quicker then the geared one.

i think just hold your horses, i got a note from billy boy today saying that he has been working on the shifter, i know it's been the thing stopping most people, so just hang in there. also the G tranny is an interesting idea, but yeah i don't know if anyone could answer those questions with out having both side by side. also i would worry about some strengths, i know the W stuff is good up to that 300hp range. i'm still holding out on bills shifter, i have seen some pics of it and it should be a slick unit.

everything that i have found and seen and done, any manual starter will fit any manual car and any auto starter will fit any auto trans. at least in the older to almost now stuff. and there are two different styles also that i have seen, a gear reduction and a non gear reduction. also the gear reduction will fit in the non gear reduction and vise versa.

Well I was hoping that went with out saying. At least here in the states those bad boys are spendy. I priced one out and I knew I had to find a cheaper option then that kind of money.