mellow65

and this is what im going to replace mine with one at a time as they go, so i never have to buy them again.

yeah i get the brand and put it on here tomorrow. and it's not a real big deal. my subaru isn't my DD it's just my winter car

cant remember what brand it was off the top of my head and i am at work so I can't check. I wasn't completely sure it was the pipe before i took it apart so i planned for the worst and got the whole pump. when i pulled the pipe out the O ring was flat and broken so that's what i figured was leaking. It never over heated or anything just leaked a little antifreeze so i had to top it off ever few days. But I figure I have it off might as well do the whole thing.

Well with the upcoming snow threat I figured it would be a good idea to to fix my leaking water pump. mine was leaking from the lower radiator hard hose. The O ring failed. I figured while I was there I would just do it all. After putting the new pump on i went to slide the hard line and it wouldn't go. I used some lubricant to try and slide it in, but nothing. After an hour of trying and cursing I pulled off the water pump and sat it next to the factory one. And I found the difference. Where the hard line slides in on the factory one it it has a taper to help slide the O ring in. The new pump does not have this. So after trying to figure out what to do, I took a file to it. That was the point of no return. Well a simple file didn't cut it so I had to improvise with my drill press. I changed the pulleys and made it spin as fast as i could and put a drill bit in it. I made a half rump roast milling machine. But it worked, i was able to put a taper on the hole and was able to slide the hard line with the O ring in. But sadly I messed up my O ring during my hour of trying to make it fit so I have to get a new one from Subaru. So I thought I would share the info for anyone that wants it. Just check your new water pump to see if that taper is cast in to the aluminum or you will have to do it yourself. Factory one, notice the taper on the lip The new one, notice the taper I had to put on it.

that would look nice on my wall of shame.

i know this doesn't completely answer your question. on the two prong plug, one needs keyed power and the other is for the idiot light on the dash. now the sad thing is i don't know which one is which because i haven't gotten that far in doing my alternator yet. some one will chime in with the correct answer here soon

i cant remember if they have VVT but i know in 06 the did a type of VTEC. but i know what your talking about, when you unplug the VTEC it hits that VTEC map in the ecu and it dumps more fuel and changes the timing. I wish i could find the article that said that subaru purposely put that hiccup in there to make it feel like turbo lag. rather then doing that, they should have just brought the damn wrxs over here. but thats just my opinion.

i have a couple theorys about cheap cars. I think anything that runs pretty good and has good tags are worth $500+. I think anything that runs pretty good, good tags and looks not like sh*t is worth $1000+ And if it runs pretty good, pretty clean and strait, and good tags and has some new stuff on it. $1500+ this is just my theorys, it may mean crap to some people, but i work with my parents auto brokering company and that is what I am able to sell cheap cars for all day long.

oops and i didn't even see that this was over a year old, im sure he fixed it by now.

i read in an article awhile back saying that subaru made that little hiccup on purpose to make the RSs feel like they have turbo lag some where in the 3-4k rpm range. Does it loose power after 4k rpm? or does it just feel like a hiccup and then the power is back on. Have you done any kind of tune ups lately? the newer stuff (and some of the older stuff as I found out) hate cheap plug wires. you can drive it under little load and it wont bog, but when you get on it it will feel like someone threw an anchor out the back and has problems getting out of its own way. Go with NGK plug wires if you do. They are the factory stuff. that cheap crap you get from the parts places will just cause you headaches. trust me on that one.

i think mine is right up there. she loves my beat to sh*t 83 wagon and wants me to take her 4xing. she thinks its "neat" looking.

if you can take some under the car shots that would be cool

ok so its probable pumping enough, but it doesn't pump anything when the key is first turned on. So i going to check and see about the control unit and then check my spark. if all else fails i may just yank my whole dissy, cap, wires out of the wagon just to see if that is the issue. at least i know they are all good in the wagon.

ok well then how much fuel is there supposed to be when it pumps, is there a amount that any manual says, i was pumping it into a pop can and there was some but not tons. but i guess im used to seeing what comes out of the FI pumps, which is a lot more. and mine pumps nothing until its cranking. i checked it with my pop can, so then maybe that control unit is toast. well ill make sure the spark end of it is good in the next day or so. it so wanted to start to, i could just hear it.

ok so i was out working on my new hatch that i got trying to get it to start. so far the things i fixed, dissy WAY off, i mean teeth off. not any kind of damage. People please if you dont know how to put a dissy back in after pulling it out, dont pull it out. i have fuel but only when i crank. is that normal? I would figure it would pump some fuel right as you turn on the key to prime the carb but im not sure. I put some fresh gas in it, and was cranking on it. I would get sputters but no start. i pulled the plugs and they were all fouled out, so i took them all to the wire brush just to get clean enough to fire. but no luck. so my next mission is to check and see if i am getting a good spark. but i need to know if the fuel pump is supposed to come on when the key is on or only when you crank and it is running. also if it is supposed to pump when the key is on where should i check to see why it isn't. is that a fused thing or is there a control box or something thanks

ok well i understand now. basically the right way to do it is build a frame for the t-case and attach that to the front and rear so you dont tear it all apart. makes sense to me, but way more then i will ever do. thanks

Oops I am going to correct myself on one thing. It was actualy a turbo car that i was working on and so it was a mpfi set up. but according to subaru the ignition stuff was the same from the turbo to the not turbo as long as you had the years the same.

well i guess i dont know what it's truly called then. i called it a resistor because the bad ones that i had had infinite resistance and the good ones had some sort of reading. not sure what that reading was but there was a obvious difference between the good and bad ones. what ever you call that thing that is attached to the spfi coil bracket, infinite resistance didn't run, some sort of reading ran fine.

not true there is the forth thing that caused my no spark. that pesky resistor that is attached to the coil bracket. I had one that was bad and the damn thing wouldn't get a good constant spark, after i replaced it vroom started right up.

You know the old saying if you have to ask how much you probably can't afford it. Well it probably holds true to this also. How do you put a transfer case in a subaru? I mean i get where and how they work and the fact you put a front axle in and everything, but I have never really seen any pictures of how you mount a transfer case to the car. Do you make an add on frame that you mount it to? Or just support it from the floor? Pictures would be cool. I know someone had to keep a photo journal of their build.

the wagon has a 3" lift I was going to go 4" just for the hell of it. me and GD are going to make some strut extensions then the rest can be made from square tubing. and all my AA rims are now sold or spoken for. but its all good. I am hoping to get on at least seeing if the thing will run this next week. then well if i ever get 5 min to breath i will start doing what should be done to it. lift spfi swap 5 speed DR swap playing in the mud and snow and then some day, a ej22, but that's just in my dreams right now

this is what carfax has to say The VIN must be from a car or light truck manufactured for the North American market since 1981 sorry no can do

in the legacys yes, the loyales had them till the end in 94

that sounds like my weber that had a busted choke. look into the choke system, that whole system normally controls your cold idle just have some one start the car and you under the hood looking at the choke, it should be closed or pretty damn close when it is cold and starting.

ok ill say im sorry now for not adding anything to this post, but is that an ej22 going in a ea81. if so, i am so never getting rid of my hatch:banana: for some reason i thought they were narrower ok back to helping him with his problem.