mellow65

And this is why I paid with my visa. Always want a back up plan.

Ok there has been much talk of putting EJ motors in EA cars with the use of addaptor plates. My question is, can you put the whole drive train from the EJ in a EA. From engine to tranny to rear end. So you could have the 2.2 and AWD. JUst a thought I have been racking with for awhile now. Has anyone ever done this swap? I am sure it's not a bolt in and there would be wireing to do for the engine. But over all is it do able with out killing yourself with time and money. If anyone did do this, what were the big headaches that you ran into.

Thats what mine did. Check the resistor under the coil, mine was bad. But mine also ended up being a ignition control module. Those would be the next two things to check.

and, AND it was that style with the raised roof from the back seat to the rear. I dont know what they are called, but I know I haven't seen many of those bastards:(

dont forget the resistor under the coil. that one has gotten me a couple of times.

i betcha autozome isn't going to have something like that. I would have to guess it would be a subaru thing. But really if you have a junkyard around, i would go get one from there. it will save you some $$$$$$

the brass things are supposed to smooth out the pulses as the fuel as its being delivered. I dont know if it works or not, but there are TONS AND TONS of them at the junk yard. I cant see them costing more then a buck or two. and all that i have seen have hose clamps on both ends so they could be removed. hope that helps

thats what i meant too:clap:

no one else has ever had this. I can't believe i could find something new about a subaru.

I figure it's just not firing fuel. I have to think that it is clicking away, I tested it with a noid light. And the chances of two fuel injectors with good resistance being bad some how i figure was pretty slim. I was maybe thinking there was a blockage in between the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel injector. But I haven't got to check that yet.

Ok I am on the hunt right now for this damn problem that I can't find. I have a 88 DL wagon with fuel injection. I am not getting fuel. I have fuel to the throttle body, ( pulling hose and cranking), I have tested the injector and tryed another one. Changed the fuel pressure regulator. Tested god damn every thing I can. Tested the signal coming from the ECU with noid light and was good. But nothing, I can't get the damn thing to shoot fuel. I did read somthing about a TBI resistor and how to check it, but I can't find the damn thing where the book says it is suposed to be. I even went to the junk yard for a search for one and none of them had this resistor either. Any help will be help. I am pulling my hair out.

But funny how with the 3.90s you get a better freeway gear, and by better I mean lower RPMs. That is only taking in to consideration the gear ratios only, not figuring for wheel size.

Sent you payment yesterday. Oh man I think I am starting to get giddy.

I still have a couple of days left on there group buy so I could still get one.

I was wondering if anyone here had one of these on there ea82 rigs. I was looking at getting one because they are so close to me and it seems to be a better fix/look then the BYB kits I have seen. Was wondering if anyone has had theres for a while now and looking to see how they hold up over time. And what you think of the kit over all. Thanks

If I remember right around the time they changed the name from GL to Loyale they did away with the D/R and only went with the push button, that was 1990. And then all DLs were puch button. So 1985 to 1989 GLs would be what you are looking for. But even some of them were push button too. So it's best to just ask. I found asking if there is the button in the stick shift was the best question to ask over the phone, no one forgets the little red button. Hope that helps.

I saw that one, but I have always known that 4 wheel disc brakes need a P valve. Even the drum ones have them, but I would have to figure that it is valved different. I got the right one now so all is good.

If I can find it and it's not a pain in the rump roast to put in I'll do it. No reason not to.

that was U pull it, on foster, you just have to time your trips up to the counter now. The new people only ring up like half the crap and give you little things for free. The damascus one is horable, I bought the rear wind deflector off of a wagon and was trying to tell me it was a wing and wanted to charge me like $40. But at least out there you can still haggle.

Ok so I was out at the junkyard and snagged me a full set of rear discs from a wagon with brand new pads. WOO HOO:headbang: And thank god for the new guy at the counter, they never seem to charge you for it all. $30 out the door. So my question is where is that damn proportioning valve? I was strapped for time, the yard was closing and I had 15 min to yank all I could. I did a quick look and tried to follow the lines, I found the ones going to the front but then it seems the line going to the rear went inside the cab. Is it under the hood or out back somewhere. Thanks

So any one running around with there rear diffs welded? How do they drive? I could imagine that you may hear some chirping going around tight corners but because they are basically being pulled along for the ride and no power being put to them not unless you are off road I don't see them being as bad. But what do I know.

And this is what the proportioning valve stops. Instead of send equal pressure to all four wheels it allows the front to start stopping first then letting pressure to the rear. And in something like a brat I could see how having one would be nice because the rear end is so light, but I'm sure in a wagon it wouldn't be as bad because of all the weight.

Very cool, I just got a running DL wagon for $100. Sweet now I'm on the search for rear discs. Thanks

Ok not to thread jack here but it's on the same line of the rear disc swap. In all that I read about rear disc swaps i have never heard about the proportioning valve being swaped also. Is this not really needed or what?

Ignition control module. I had the same problems. Not only was that bad but the resistor near the coil was bad also. I was able to find both at the junk yard with no problems. Also the easy way to see if it is sparking is to pull the distributor and turn it by hand. If you have the coil wire near a ground it should spark each time a cylinder would. that way you dont have to crank it and try to see if its sparking. Good luck, this one pissed me off for a few days.