Subaru_for_LIfe

Howdy all, I'm trying to find out how to best remove the air vent/grille assemblies on the dash on the passenger side without breaking them. Has anyone done it before and how did you do it? Thanks in advance

You the man, thanks a lot

I have an '03 Forester X and I bought it new. I've already put on close to 50,000 miles on it without any major problems. They've totally redesigned the Forester from the '03 and up, you won't see any of that silly wheel bearing issues and head gasket problems anymore. A small fender bender is nothing to worry about if repaired right. Mine was run over by a Hummer last year from behind, but after the repairs I couldn't tell the difference in looks and driving. Good luck with your decision.

Howdy, looks like its the bolt that secures the rocker shaft. According to my FSM for '90-'94 EJ2.2E, it's suppose to be only 3.6 ft-lb (0.5 Kg-m). But it's not a critical bolt, you could just wing it with the feel. Nice looking rockers by the way, do they come like that or did you do something else to it? Have fun

The switch should be right above the pedal. It takes some upside down acrobatics to get to it As for the relay, check the diagram under the cover of the fuse and relay boxes under the dash on driver side and under the hood on the driver side. I'll double check when I get a chance to look at the manual.

Howdy, I'd also do the crank seal and check and replace hydraulic tensioner also. Then again, I'm a 2.2 guy, know nothing about the 2.5s Have fun.

If your tranny is shifting just fine once you get it out of the park then it might be a problem with one of the switches that senses and unlocks the shifter once you step on the brake, and especially since you're not getting brake lights when in park gear. That's about all my pathetic little brain could muster at the moment. But I'm sure other knowledgeable members will help you out

Howdy, it's common with Subarus. I wouldn't call it a problem, but a minor annoyance which most of us had gotten used to it over time. And your observation was correct in that it's right around the side view mirrors. Some people have actually fixed it and seemed to be fairly simple. I don't have the link right now, but if you do a search I'm sure you'd find it. Good luck

Hi, is it an AWD? If it is, AWD and asymmetrical tires do not go along very well, at least that's what I've been told.

Hi, I'm too lazy to do gapping thing, so I've always used Bosch 4 way platinum plugs. No gapping needed what so ever. I've used them since 80k on my '93 Legacy and now she's a little over 211k. I think I've only changed it twice during the course.

Hi, I did a port and polish on my EJ22 heads. I'm getting them back tomorrow, I'll post the pics as soon as I have them uploaded somewhere. If you're gonna do it yourself please be careful, unlike detroit iron heads, the aluminum Subie heads don't have much meat to afford any mistakes. And for some rudimentary tips and tools here's a start: http://www.cylinderheadbolts.com/portingtools.html

Hi Robb1, the screw that's closest to the outside of the car (fender) adjusts for the horizontal and the other screw that's closer to the center adjusts the vertical. Atleast that's what Haynes manual says. Have fun.

Thanks Nipper, but I'm afraid it's gonna be a long wait as we Floridians won't be able to enjoy the sub 60s temperatures until next year

I have a similar problem on my '93 Legacy also. When the outside temperature is around 60 degrees or less (which by the way is really cold for South Florida:D ) the parking brake light comes on. When it warms up a bit later in the day the light goes away. All the fluid levels are fine. I now use the idiot light as a poorman's outside air temperature guage

Hi Gary, thanks for the clarification. Yeah, I'm usually always confused I've recently ordered one of those CDs that supposedly contains the FSMs from '94 through '00. It should be here any day now. I'll let you know if it has any good info on your '97 2.2ltr.

I never knew you could adjust valve clearance on the 2.2s. What kind of 2.2 do you have? I have an EJ22 N/A that I'm rebuilding and it has hudraulic valve lash adjusters and you never have to adjust them as they're self adjusting. Good luck with the info.

Thank you for your help folks. I wish I'd found this board sooner, there are so many knowledgeable and helpful people on this board. I don't think I can pull the seal back out without damaging it, time to order a new one I guess. Thank you all.

Hello, I just found this thread doing a search. I have a quick question if you don't mind. I'm in the process of rebuilding my EJ22 and I'd like to know how far back do I have to drive in the rear main seal? I'm also using the 4" PVC also and the seal was pretty tight until 2/3 of the way in, then loosened up a bit once I drove it in all the way against the back. Haynes manual says to drive it in to the original depth, but I didn't mark the depth when I took it out. Thanks in advance and how's your engine running now by the way? Pye

Have you tried port and polish on the heads, it's expensive but definitely worth it.

Pardon my newbie question, but isn't the knock sensor suppose to compensate the timing to eliminate the pinging? Knocking and pinging not the same?

Looks like a '92-'94 Legacy, what happened to the airbag in the original steering wheel? I hope you didn't disable the airbag for the sake of an aftermarket steering wheel.

I just took my EJ22 apart a couple weeks a go and there's nothing to it to take the intake manifold out, it's pretty straight forward. While you're at it did you check the idle air control valve? Please make sure to replace the manifold gasket, they're pretty cheap anyways. Good luck

Thank you folks for your input so far. Now is it worth it to rebore to next larger size, get new oversize pistons and rings? Does the piston slap ruin the motor in long run? If not I'd rather live with the piston slap. Thanks in advance folks.

Hi all, I have a regular EJ22 motor which I've pulled out of a '94 Legacy in 2001. The same year, I pulled the motor apart and completely rebuilt it using new piston rings, bearings, seals and custom ported the heads. But then due to economic hardship stemming from 9/11, I was forced to abandon my hobbies and put the rebuilt motor in a storage place on a stand. It was wrapped in plastic sheets but I did not have time to put the intake manifold on it. Five years later, Hurricane Wilma hit our beautiful South Florida and the storage I was renting almost got leveled by the hurricane and sustained a lot of water damage. Last week I took the plastic sheets off of the motor with the intention of swapping the motor out of my trusty '93 Legacy with over 210k miles and behold, water somehow got inside the plastic, poured through the left intake on the head and settled inside cylinder #2 and #4. I took the heads off and took it to the shop and should be no problem. But my concern is the cylinder walls inside #2 and #4. One third of the cylinder wall where the water settled for months has rust spots and hardened crud from oil and grease in it and a bit rough when I ran my fingers over it. The right hand side block is pristine however and was untouched. Now the questions I have are: - Is my block ruined? - If I hone the left block, do I have to hone the right side block too? - When I take the pistons #2 and #4 out of the block, the piston rings would have to run through the rough spots on the cylinder walls and does it ruin the rings, do I have to get new rings? Sorry about the long post, but I thought the history of the motor would help. Thanks in advance .