matts87glsedan

ya i think the axle just has to come out again. oh well at least tomorows monday so i can get the bearing pressed off the shaft somewhere and do it all over again... grr...

no, i dont think the brake is dragging. i spun the wheel when it was up on the stand, and it was good. i guess i should check that again.

theres a possibility that the inside bearing isnt fully seated... I pulled the axle thru the hub, then had to take it out again, and the inside bearing came with it. i couldnt get the bearing off the shaft, so i just heated the crap out of the hub and put the whole thing back in. it went in easy, but maybe she didnt seat...

you mean over tighten the castle nut? possibly. i cranked it to 150 ft lbs - didnt think you could over tighten a castle nut. washers are on proper. filled bearings with a non melt moly hi temp grease that says its good for wheel bearings on the side of the tube (cant remember the name right now).

looks like a rockin snow year in nelson.. been to whitewater lately? opening day was fun. bet it rules now.

i just did my front wheel bearings on the passenger side. i took it for a test drive, and after about 5 miles i get out and check things and my hub is hot. like hot enough that you cant leave your finger on it for more than 2 or 3 seconds. more on the inside than the outside. much hotter than the driver side, which is only a bit warm. could this be a new bearing just working itself in? or am i pooched? im supposed to drive 6 hours tomorrow, and im stressing a bit.

gawdammit, i hate it when i do that ************e. .. i even took the time to edit that post. and this one too

my 87 was heating up, and was losing coolant. it turned out that i had a pinhole leak in one of the top hoses behind the carb (the little ones), and i had leaky intake manifold gaskets. the amount of work it takes to do IMG's is small, and may be worth trying before you get into the HG's. these two things fixed my overheat issue. I had coolant dripping out my exhaust ports also. I also replaced the tstat while i was at it.

so, inner end unthreaded easy with the help of a pipe wrench. outer end, loosened castle nut out to top of stud and knocked it with a hammer. some other fallout from this episode- i pushed the car down the road a few blocks before parking it, and with the wheel being cranked over and under power and all, i twisted up my outer cv boot. now both inner and outer are throwing grease, and the stupid thing has only about 5000kms on it.

bloody hell, expensive is right. 125$ plus tax for the inner end at NAPA here in B.C. grrr. this could mean a bus trip to the junk yard.

ya, replacing all now appears to be a dumb idea. how tough is a rack and pinion set up on an ea82? this wheel took a solid jolt when the rod broke. I was sliding hard sideways to the right when the back of the right front tire hit something hard. this pulled on the steering rod to the point where it broke on the inside of the jam nut. but the pull was really more of a solid smack. i hope i havent wrecked anything else besides the rod. daeron... you hippy...thanks for reading my thread

beautiful. five minutes and ive learned more than the manual tells me. yes the nut is with the outer end.

any tips before i tie into a tie rod replacement? Not the end, the rod itself is broke right at the jam nut threads. Im considering taking the whole steering gear and rods off and replacing with JY. but i dont have the steering gear boots off or any thing yet. anyway, just starting a thread because i know i'll be hunting for info tomorrow. cheers - matt.

ok ill keep posting in this thread because its relevant. i was having trouble with my car heating up on hill climbs. itwas losing coolant before, but i fixed that with a new water pump and two new little hoses on top of the engine. i knew that my intake man gaskets were gone, but i was suspecting that my hg's were gone too. banking on it actually. I was prepped to do the hg's, but after i got the intake man off i got scared, and just replaced them and the the tstat, then put it all back together. i test drove it up my fav five mile hill, and it heated up again. but i had my grille off, and checked the rad at the top of the hill. (third check). i finally realised , feeling the rad from the front, that t he bottom 1/4 of the rad wasnt hot. so i threw in a new rad today and did the same test drive. no heat up. drove the sheeit out of it, 4500 rpm climbing much of the time. soooo... im still not sure that my hg's are ok, but the new rad has definitely bought me some more time. i hate sube stock hose clamps. im replacing them all as i go with standard worm gear style clamps.

hah that rules. my 87 sedan is even the same color as yours. but non turbo...

so far on my 87 gl ive replaced the hose that comes off the bottom of the tstat housing, the one that comes from the metal heater pipe up and over the intake manifold to the base of the carb, and finally tonight the intake manifold gaskets. All were leaky. I was running with the same conditions as you are currently. Look for white residue on top of the engine.

yes, just dive in... i know... the rad was new from previous owner, and feels uniformly warm when i run my hand up and down it. so that'll be water pump, then clutch and front cv's, now head gaskets and man. gaskets, all in three weeks.

after all the work to chop that engine and trans in, i'll forgive him the wires. That thing rules. the acceleration off the line is psyco! its like watching a bike. he should go on "pinks".

so, the final answers are.. the intake man. bolds on the dr side had loosened off considerably, AND the little satanic hose that runs up over the manifold to the base of the carb was leaking. So i tightened the bolts and replaced the hose , filled up the coolant sys. - took it for a test drive and it still heats up when i climb a steady hill. Going flat ground is ok. I see that i have the telltale white goo on the inside of my oil fill cap now, so im going to do a compression test tonite. But it doesnt seem to have lost any jam.... i suppose that intake man. gasket should be replaced now, instead of just tighten and go. could the coolant be getting into the oil sys thru that spot? or only into the combustion chamber... hopefully somebody will check in on this thread. I'm trying to keep as few running as possible.

oh ya. no it doesnt misfire at all. still runs quite well, but idles a little rougher - like i was sayin.

well, i dont know if its burning coolant, i know its cooking on the top of the block and heads. how would i know? like white smoke out the pipe or something? there was white residue inside the pipe at the head, a bit more noticeable on the driver/problem side. it has started to idle more roughly now, in the last week. I was driving up a smallish mtn pass last week(like a mile of not too steep), and my friend behind me commented that he could smell coolant, which didnt suprise me because ive been losing it for a while now . i just thought it was burnin off the top.

on the upside, the clutch is in, and test driven. total elapsed time... 5 days.

sweet, thanks for the replies. it was definitely leaking out of the exhaust port itself (but ive also got burned off coolant on top of the engine). this is a non turbo, i dont know the diff between gen 1 and gen 2 heads. its had this leak for about 5000k's, and its been warmed up several times, but never quite into the red. I'm pretty sure that the intake manifold gasket is leaking , but i was wondering if it could be worse than that.

car has been sitting with exhaust pipes off for several days. im under it this morning putting everything back together after my nightmare clutch job, and i see this coolant drip, coming out the driver side exhaust port. Could someone break the bad news to me and describe whats going on with that?

my car was slipping a bit. I tried tightening up the free play a bit because i didnt like how high the pedal had to come before it engaged. - then it started to slip worse (drove it like this for maybe 5 city miles), so i loosened the nuts back to their original positions. but after that the slip was more pronounced and now here i am just putting the tranny back in after replacing my clutch. I know my car wouldnt have made 1400 mi with a trailer in tow, especially if i had any kind of hill to climb.