matts87glsedan

goddam, dude. the intake gaskets will cause coolant to leak? maybe thats a dumb question , but hey... i'm a dumb guy sometimes. I asked my HD mechanic friend about that (because i saw them bubble a bit one day) , and he put me off that idea, but i bet thats where its going. guess i better buy a weber carb if i gotta take off the intake manifold ANYWAY.

ok i sure hope so. i did them all up nice and even while i was torqueing the sheeit out of it, so i'm goin to go ahead and put the tranny back in now...

how dumb is this. i have been torturing myself putting in this clutch for the last FOUR DAYS! last night i was putting on the pressure plate,a little drunk reading the torque specs, and started going for 136 foot pounds of torque... BUT I JUST REALISED THAT ITS SUPPOSED TO BE INCH POUNDS! :banghead: so is it wrecked? thank god the flywheel is steel and i didnt wreck the hole threads. I think its fine, i had the nuts up to like 65 lbs roughly, but I still want to ask somebody. AAAHHHHHHHH!

i know i know! but i wanted the OEM clutch from some of the stuff i've read on here, and the axles..well i wasnt thinkin clearly, but i hope the quality will be a step higher as well.. plus im in canada and from what i see you gotta pay more cdn for everything, and 14% sales tax to boot in bc. also i think i could have got away without buying a new pressure plate - buddy may have upsold me on that. but yeah total for just the 3 clutch parts - 550$. and the subaru parts boxes.. they were so pretty... sniff...

ok tranny is out and pressure plate and flywheel off. total time, roughly 22 working hours.i hereby apply for the worlds slowest mechanic award:dead: oh well it'll go together a lot faster now. definitely going to build a cradle for my floor jack, i was a retard to not use one. instead i had an engine hoist w a chain over the top tied to the trans front, and the jack underneath. IT IS A BULL************ way of getting the tranny out, do not try it. clutch disc was down to the rivets, pressure plate and flywheel scored a little bit, but not outrageous. also got two reman driveaxles at the dealership, besides OEM pr.plate, c.d., and throwout bearing- total cost, 950 bux cdn. I still have to get my core fee back for the axles though. i wanted to ask a few q's, but i cant remember ************ right now, so i'm goin to bed.

ok thanks for the tips. will check right now. prolly be usin the wood chisel soon..

ive got everything disconnected, and two bolts from the top of the tranny, and two nuts from the bottom. but still i cant get it to come free. Ive tried raising and lowering the trans to different angles, but nothing. I can see a bit of space form (like 1/64th inch), but thats it.. could use any advice from you whove done this before...

o ring is good. i replaced it, and backed it up with silicone (not touching the o ring, just behind it). The hoses i will check on. or prolly just replace anyway.

well, i just did the waterpump on my GL, and its still leaking coolant like a bastard:banghead: . So i'm under the car last night taking off the front exhaust (so i can do my clutch) , looking at the bottom side of the heads. theres obviously been coolant burning off on them, along the line of the head gaskets. So how likely is it that im pumping coolant out thru two blown head gaskets? is that possible? theres nothing getting into the oil. the car's still running smooth and with the same power. or is coolant running down off the top of the engine and evaporating on the bottom side of the heads? GAWDAMMIT! also any handy tips on replacing an ea82 clutch would be apreciated. god i wish i had a hoist.

hah, thanks all, i'm going to put off the oil pump for sure because i get to do my CLUTCH now! It was slipping like crazy coming over the mtn passes between here and castlegar. If i put my foot into it at all the rpms would go way up, but not the speedo.. grrr. I didnt think i was going to make it home.

hey youre right i can re seal my oil pump. I just am hoping to put it off for 2 weeks or so, because i just did that pump, and helped my friend put a 2nd hand engine in his toyota - so im just sick of mechanicing right now is all. and that oil , it is listed in the manual so... it may be worth trying in the mean time ya know? anyway, cheers all, i'm goin to a music festival.

well, i had to check out the 20w-50. on page 111 of my owners manual, theres a chart listing recommended oils and their temp ranges. 20w-50 is listed on it as basically a summertime oil to run - from freezing to 100f . I am currently just running castrol 10w-30, but i may switch to 20w-50 next time around. I do rock this car down the highway sometimes. yo subiejunker, wheres ladysmith? all sube autowrecker you say?

ok. I just changed the oil yesterday (along with the waterpump which was toast), and that was after about 4000miles . too long i 'm sure. i'll keep on top of it better now, more like every 2500 miles or so. I drive nothing but highway with this car right now - like 9 to 12 hr trips to my work . (2 weeks in and one off, on an oil rig), so thats better than all city miles at least. i'll go search for info about the oil pump gasket now... not too sure why the tick would indicate that, and i'd like to know..

well the title says it - i have an on and off valve tick on my 87GLsedan. Sometimes its quite loud, other times quiet, most of the time not there at all. but when it is there, it bothers the hell out of me. are there bad consequences to running it in this condition? . A heavy duty mechanic friend speculated that it could be valve guides - sound right? thanks to all the knowledgeable posters on this site - i've learned so much off here - it rules!