matts87glsedan

i found a description of a signal delay circuit... but it makes a delay in nanoseconds... they do however give the formula for calculating the time delay based on what resistor and capacitor are used. I wonder if a variable resistor was used, could you turn the delay up and down? link to the description: http://electronicdesign.com/analog/accurate-analog-delay-circuit i have very minimal electronics understanding, but its a hobby i've been trying to teach myself... this looks pretty simple - but would it work on the ecu output to the ignitor?

My bad, i misremebered what the current motor is - they are EJ251 heads on what i think is a 25D block. i used to always think of that (the distributor mod) as going 'backwards' but now it seems like a good idea, has it been done on these heads before? i'll have to go search now... *edit for clarity*

man, so much goin on here, thanks for all the replies... damn, i didnt realise this had been done - if i had known 2 months ago that you had figured this out i might have attempted it. probably still will try it this fall when the pressure is off.. do you know off hand what 'limp' timing is? and does it even apply since this is an early 90's computer? i will test this at ivans this week. john, you should read that 'scope link, it may change your mind. Correct about the block and heads combo. but the new rods are shorter, so we have a reduced compression ratio of an unknown amount. unfortunately, i have no idea how much retard we need either. but i will say that the knock sensor does not do the full job when you run 10lbs of boost and anywhere from 30 to 50 hp/cylinder of nitrous at WOT. Even last weekend when we ran no turbo (heavy heavy loads though), the best we could do was run a 70 shot (17.5hp/cyl) without having bad nitrous pops out the intake. but the sanity (or insanity) of the crapinator isnt a rabbit hole i want to go down right now... all i'm hoping for is a way to pull timing for the race this weekend... your 'scope link shows a base timing of 10 DBTDC , is there a way we could lock the car at that, and test it? it sounds waay retarded, but with enough boost and nos, it might work.

presslab hmm, so messing with the cam sensor also affects the injector timing? i think i see that in there. thank you for posting that link, i will ponder it and hopefully it will start making some sense to me... it looks to me like the crank sensor determines rpm, which dictates how much spark advance is applied ( in conjunction with the load calculated by the MAF) , and the actual triggering of the spark is done by the cam? maybe hondasucks has the right idea with delaying the signal. what if i go further down the line, to the signal the ecu outputs to the ignitor(s)? delay that somehow? i could live with it if the delay started small and got progressively longer as the rpm's went up - within reason of course. maybe max 10 degrees of delay ... just a random number...

can it be done? i cant find any info on what signal (cam or crank) the computer uses to determine when to spark. We just need some way to redneck retard the crapinator - 'driveability' isnt an issue. Its just to avoid WOT, MAF-torching, air-filter-exploding nitrous backfires. we have the technology to modify a trigger wheel or slot the cam pulley back a few degrees, but i'm just not sure how to make it work. any ideas? oh and it has to be done by friday... *edit* its running an OBD 1 NA legacy computer

hi guys, really sorry to be a flake on this, like ivan says the race season has been a bit nuts, i didnt realise what i was committing to, and then i came way too close to breaking my ankle last week. At least i dont have any of your cash in my hand, right? So blah blah blah, excuses excuses, total BS i know. The last race is this weekend, and then i can have a friday ( only day i can work on my own stuff) to finish these up. I will still make the 5 sets, and anyone that backs out I will certainly not gripe since i basically have screwed you all over. Whoever is still in, i thank you for your exceeding patience.

well a 400 shot on a v8 would be 50hp per cylinder... i like the idea of 40hp per cylinder, it sounds almost reasonable. we did 32.5hp per cylinder on the road last night. i was reading a bit about wideband o2, and apparently the more Nos you use the less accurate they are for tuning (so says one guy on the internet). and that plug readings are more reliable. it was nice to see a black plug yesterday.

so after thinking about it last night, it might not be good to have big jets in it. If we only ever use 75% of our max shot, that means the solenoids will be cycling on and off constantly. having one overheat and stick open or closed would either bog the engine with way to much fuel, or blow it up with too much nos. it would be better to have it ramp up to 100%, so they're just full open and not working. The 210 thats in it right now might be where we should stay (or smaller), then if you still want more after that, it can be brought in with the single sprayer and the second channel.

just incase anyones interested ... http://www.holley.com/15974NOS.asp

hey! buy the 3 .047's instead! they match the 026 fuels, and we'll get an available 400 shot ... 400 is a nice number, i like it. 2 stage nos controller is in, and its effing sweet. We can put ridiculous jets in it (see above) , but choose what percentage of the power we want to start and finish at, and choose how fast or slow we want it to ramp up, in .1 second increments. plus other options too, like if we want to fire it by rpm or tps, if we want a delay before ramp up, etc. I'm willing to bet one Wildcat that it will be superior to the turbo for drag racing once we get it tuned. "how much power would you like sir?" " well, i think i'll start with 210hp over .8 seconds, thank you very much..." and we havent even got a second stage yet, ahahahahahahaaa!!!

mid season recap race one - merritt - started the season with stock crank, stock rods, arp head studs, and CP pistons. EJ 251 Ported heads, intake spacers, water methanol injection, roughly fifteen pounds of boost, and a 40 wet shot of nitrous thru a single sprayer. NA computer. went six passes and didnt blow up, it was decently fast, but not catching the first place truck. Race 2 - Quesnell changed the nitrous setup to multiport. problem is, the smallest available jets still jumped us up to a 120 shot. Ivan did 2 passes that had a few people saying "holy crap that thing looks fast". then on third pass, it started to work hard at the end of the track, and broke #3 cyl rod. there was also the variable of the 'boost adder' spring on that pass. the crank wasnt turning, so we put it on the trailer and came home. staging area ivan getting staged, mud shark in the far lane the track race 3 - Valemount ivan slapped together a new motor of the same configuration and headed to valemount. i got there saturday night to get the news that we had broke #3 rod again on the second pass. Not wanting to give up so easy this time, Ivan had already 'clearanced' the hole in the block with a hammer, and was ready to go for sunday. After adding 1L of oil, and no coolant left, He got pushed up to the line by a fellow racers quad. He fired it up, and made the pass with the whole cab of the car filled with smoke, and a 100ft plume coming out of the pipe. Second pass was less smoky since there was nothing left in the engine, haha. but it made 2 passes completely busted, and drove itself on and off the trailer. points collected. the aftermath the piston decided to hang out at the top of the cylinder for the rest of the weekend. debbie, why do you do this to us? race 4 - chilliwack after 2 rod breaks, it was time for some Manleys. combo'ed with the CP pistons, hopefully this rotating assembly will be tough enough. we also stepped down the nitrous jet, reducing the shot to 90, but theres no fuel jet small enough to match a 022 nos, so it was running 016 fuel side making it a rich mix. not a bad thing. Also the o2 sensor was relocated to read fresh air, hopefully making the NA computer go full rich. Showing some confidence, ivan let his brother Rob and I drive the shortbus down to chilliwack while he partied on the beach. I was to be main driver. upgrades comparison I was really hoping to make 3 full passes and not break, but it was not to be. First pass i started to bog at the end of the track. Thats how it has broken before, so i slapped off the nitrous and that stalled the motor completely. Second pass i left the nitrous on and chewed my way thru the ungodly deep chilliwack mud for a 17 second pass. Next day - Third pass i was bogging down at end of track again, so i tried to shift into first and acidentally popped it in neutral, then flailed it back into gear and stalled it. Fourth pass was the best of the weekend, i made a clean downshift and got an 11 second pass. filling up in cache creek on the way home We came home thinking it wasnt broke, but ivan heard it right away. upon reviewing the tape, it lets out a puff and starts smoking just before i turn off the nitrous on the first pass. so we went the rest of the weekend with some still to be determined damage, and i didnt even notice. dumbass, haha. moral of the story - it aint that easy to drive this thing in competition conditions. my worst enemy was oversteering and getting out of the ruts - once i jumped out of track i was screwed every time.

heres that timer relay 'pinout' http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays_996152131.asp

i'm 'persona non grata' in the states too... it sucks

hey the merritt paper put a clip of the crapinator on youtube , search "merritt mud drags 2013" on youtube for some vids... i'm waiting on my PCI firewire card to arrive, then i can put some up too. too bad its the first pass where the engine bogs right at the start, lol

all right, the list is filled! The Official List: 86BRATMAN - 1 pair edrach - 1 pair dudesmccool - 2 pair subaruguru - 2 pair soobydoo - 2 pair 86GLAK - 2 pair ftwneon - 2 pair i will order the blanks thanks for the link! However, i should mention that the linked studs show a 45mm thread length. when i have referred to a 45mm stud, i am referring to 45mm overall length - so thats 45mm including both the knurl and the threads, but not the head. the ones in the links would most likely be too long for a stock 'acorn nut' type of lug nut.

So the manifold pressure wasnt allowing the regulated gas to enter into the manifold? damn. now that i think about it, the regulator has a vac line on it which i think needs to feel vacuum to allow fuel to flow at all... i dont think a fuel map change would fix that. but i could hopefully be wrong. Expect to hear some questions from me over the next little while, haha.

i shot about an hour of video over the weekend, so ya we will have some proof - i just have to get an adapter for my antique (2005) video camera cable. even got one 'in car' shot, with the miniDV cam taped to the back pillar, lol. definitely a cool experience - kinda stressful for a first timer when the race was on, trying to figure out where to be at what time, not get in the way in the staging area, etc. the second day at least i had seen the routine, so it was easier to know wtf was going on. no updates to the website as of today, but here's the link. we're in B class . http://www.nwmra.com/index.php

PM sent

hi "will the adapters fit over the raised ridges that center the wheels on the original gen2 Brat hubs?" i have not seen a gen 2 brat hub in person - i can say that they fit nicely on the original hub centering ring of my 87 GL sedan, both front and rear. . so if there is no difference there, then they will be fine. I will look next time i'm at ivans , i think his brat is gen2. ok, i will add you to the list. that puts me to 4 of 20 pieces that i will ideally run. i dont have a closing date set, but i'm hoping i'll be running them in late july. hopefully the list fills soon, and i will be seeing you later this summer .

so, its race weekend coming up - flooding is rampant across the plains, and heavy rainstorms blast the interior two or three times a week. We hide under car shelters and wait. As the first race approaches, the instructions get a little more serious. " do not leave your lane - if you are leading, and you cross over, you will get t-boned... " and "it lights on fire, and explodes sometimes" yea birthday party

the crapinator, now with 50% less boost! note the air blaster has no hose on it - therefore it doesnt matter that you cant see the gauge . just an illustration of the manual tester...

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137844-matts-gl-sedan/ this is the propane system Ivan mentioned, i havent gotten anywhere with it yet, but it's there waiting for me. http://www.lgc.hk/ of course, i dont have a clue if its CSA certified or not. they have spfi ones too, but not sure if its the good venturi that was mentioned.

lol, yes the exhaust reatachment was absolute gold on the drive in this morning, thanks again. low end power is back now, and i can actually hear my radio!

"the 4x140 pattern is tapped with a M12 1.75 thread to facilitate bolting through the original stud holes to the hub. Yes, that's a coarse thread pitch. . i will supply class 10.9 (grade 8) mounting bolts." So yeah, knock out the OE studs, and bolt through the back of your hub, into the adapter.