matts87glsedan

i say spray on - Pro-Form paintable rubberised undercoat - with a schutz gun. Tell them you need a free gun.

What sort of runouts numbers are you shooting for and will there be any balancing going on Excellent question. runout on the prototype is questionable - could be up to .02 TIR . The production run will be easily concentric within .01 TIR , most likely less, but i wont say exactly till i run them. they'll be tight. but an actual weight balance? no . i will rely on the consistency of the alloy for that. I do have access to a balancer, maybe i'll rig one up and check it, but i dont think it will be an issue. All good questions, i have been waiting for someone to 'bring the heat' on these. i Run a very high quality CNC lathe/mill - tolerances within .003 are childs play for it. material is supplied by a reputable company in town. mistakes have already been made on the first 4, and they are still safe and functional. the next run will be a refined, accurate product. The only thing i cant say for sure is 'can you take it down to the 3 corner oval and rail the spoob out of them at 120mph '... but if the stars align, i WILL be able to say by the end of the summer. will they take deep rump roast potholes at 70mph? yes. Edit for clarity - TIR is ' total indicator reading' or 'total indicated runout' . so on a round part, when you spin it, it will go say +.005 , then -.005 , for a TIR of .01 . but to make the part true, you only need to adjust it .005 . Just incase anyone was wondering wtf i was talking about.

sure https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CCwQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lgc.hk%2F&ei=ms_DUaKIH6TmiwKxsoDAAQ&usg=AFQjCNHRh8ri_y3T1adq66amMnMZVpUCaw&sig2=0PF5TsDzBD8g0pF4WCsV3Q&bvm=bv.48293060,d.cGE it cost me 400 to get it to my door. it has some flaws. ecu case was suspiciously scuffed up, they didnt package it well so it all bounced all the way here from china, and i didnt specify the 'super' vaporiser (which wasnt clearly mentioned) , so i got the one that is supposedly max 175HP . which hopefully will be a problem someday but - the replys from the sales rep were quick and he knew pretty good what he was talking about. 1- ecu box was reused because of shortage, but contents are new... (i havent opened the box.) and 2- there are some tweaks i can do to the system to get more fuel if necessary, beyond that , he'd exchange it, but its like 150$ shipping there and back. oops.

dont buy them yet, but it looks like the studs needed will be m12 1.25 x 45mm long. These will give you the stock amount of thread that a legacy hub has - 33mm. the Pathfinder studs MAY work. they are 41.5mm long.

Done, this is now The Official List: 86BRATMAN - 1 pair edrach - 1 pair dudesmccool - 2 pair subaruguru - 2 pair soobydoo - 2 pair 86GLAK - 2 pair ftwneon - 2 pair i will edit this post as others sign up... feel free to spread the word . once i get to 20 pieces , i'll order the material.

no problem, its not as good a price as i was hoping to put up, so i understand. but hey, i dont think you can find them anywhere else either... send me a PM when you want some, and i'll add you to the list.

well, i'm disappointed that i cant get a volume deal on the blanks, so I would have to charge 60$ a piece for the adapters. this includes the 4 mounting bolts, but not the 5 studs. so thats 240 for a set of 4, plus the cost of 20 studs, 4 more lugnuts, and shipping. if you junk yard the studs, you might get these on your car for around 300$ total. a quick check on canada post says 49$ shipped to washington state. the package should be 10 lbs. let me know what you think. if there is still interest, i will start an official preorder list, and i'll have to take some deposits. if i can line up 5 people for sure, i'll place the order for the blanks.

the propane kit arrived... multiport injection with a somewhat tunable computer ... too bad i ordered the vaporiser that only makes 180hp ... but that will probably be sufficient for ye old rust bucket anyway... check my vendor thread for the spacer stuff

sweet - wet pavement burnouts? better stock up on diff stubs now so the thin spot in the old shaft was .75 diameter. these are now .94 diameter all the way, or better. Thats 25% more material than the old ones weak spot.

damn you just beat me haha

well had a busy week last week, so when the water jet guy didnt get back to me, i didnt remember to chase him down. put in another call this morning to kickstart the quote machine.

no wonder the alignment was all screwy. these holes are egged forward 10mm, which gave this side some wild toe in eyeballing the alignment with everything tacked in place and bolts in - looks good (ish) pre-weld pic of the doubled up brackets. we plug welded and re drilled the holes to get them in the right place. beefed up the inside of the arm with a plate and some rod and whatnot. thanks travis for the late in the day reinforcements (bad pun intended) walked away sunday night with it almost back together - hope it all works man, haha. definitely stronger now, and straight for the time being....

i too have the snail fever.

eeee i just giggled like a schoolgirl!

in other news - i just pushed the button to pay for a multiport propane injection system, and confirmed the (turbo) motor thats going in .

yo, i specify in the other thread... kind of. lengths are not figured out yet. but its most likely m12 1.5 bolts to mount it, then your M12 1.25 studs to put the wheel on.

nice. i've never had an EA81, so if theres anything different between them and the EA82 hubwise, i'd appreciate the heads up. for instance, i dont know what you mean about front vs. rear spacing. you want to make the rear wider?

still around? i want a 2 incher... EA82 that is

ok guys, i went over to the other forum and started a thread, its got some details about fasteners and stuff. i should have some hard answers by monday night about lengths and whatnot. thanks! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138796-4x140-to-5x100-bolt-pattern-adapters/

well there's been some interest in my adapters, so im starting a vendor thread. heres the prototype: I have about 5000km on these, no problems yet. Stock material is 6061 T6 aluminum. standard material for all internet wheel spacers. MOUNTING INFO the 4x140 pattern is tapped with a M12 x 1.5 thread to facilitate bolting through the original stud holes to the hub. i will supply M12 x 30mm class 10.9 mounting bolts. you need to knock out your studs and put the bolts in their place, torque is 72 ft-lbs, blue locktite MANDATORY! retorque after 100kms. Note how the bolt sticks thru a TINY bit on the above pic. This needs to be touched with an angle grinder or just filed off. I wanted max thread engagement, so you have to live with this. STUD INFO - DORMAN 610-320 is recommended the 5 x 100 pattern is drilled for an M12 1.25 stud with a 12.8mm knurl. the stud head size that i used was 19mm dia, by 4.5mm deep. check your stud head diameter and thickness before installing. you may need to grind them a bit. these holes are a PRESS FIT. i had to put about 1000psi on mine to get them seated, but you really don't want them to spin, so tight is good. Length of studs needed is M12 x 40mm long. Nissan pathfinder studs are M12 1.25 x 41.5mm - they should be close enough, you make the call. I am not providing studs. When pressing - make sure the receiving die under the adapter is as small as possible, while still clearing the stud threads. A bit of oil is ok. Freezing the studs overnight may help too, but dont heat gun the adapter you may wreck the temper. CENTER BORE its 1.98 inches. you may have to grind your 36mm socket. mine fits. RIM CENTERING these provide a 7/8 offset, with a 3.5mm tall lip to center the rim on. price will be 60$ a piece. for one adapter and 4 mounting bolts thanks soobydoo, capn_r , 86BRATMAN, and bratman18 for the initial interest here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137844-matts-gl-sedan/ edit note - i am filling in the necessary finalized details in bold , as i nail it all down.

hmm, three prospects! i'm going to get bumped to the vender forum haha. Ok i'll look into getting some more blanks cut, maybe they'll give me a better deal for a bigger run. I'll try and re-work the depth of the stud inset to fit a standard length of stud. i had to cut junkyard Pathfinder studs to length (same oddball thread pitch as subaru), and then clean up the threads. how much of a bitch is it to get metric bolts for you guys? I'll price out a bag of the 12.9 grade, M12 mounting bolts. we'll see how my price compares to yours. And then I'd have peace of mind knowing they were mounted with top quality hardware. Studs, you can probably get cheaper than me or go junkyard. not sure if i can make it work with the original EA ones yet. i couldnt for mine, but that was because of the material thickness i chose, IIRC. the material is 6061 T6 , same as what everyone uses.

thanks! since i have to pay to have the blanks water jetted, and dont have bulk supply of wheel studs and mounting bolts, they might turn out to be kind of pricey, but can give you a quote. i'll PM you tonight.

oh noooo!! that sucks! so you think the rod was out of spec? or more the oil pump f'-ed you over? you drove that motor last summer, correct? but then put more boost to it, and this happened? sorry so many questions, i want to learn from your misfortune, haha. oh yeah one more - did you see your oil pressure doing anything weird before it went? seats look awesome btw. nice touch, matching them to the old school interior.

i think you need to give us Franz' ph. number, so we can urge him to get the hell over to your house . We want results!

it seems to run nice in this configuration. better than the previous set up (seen in first pics). no loss of low end power, and its made for being wide open anyway. maybe could get away with less diameter, but its too late now, first race is july 1st. And theres still engine issue, and other stuff to fine tune. alignment is all screwy lol, and steering rack has like 2 inches of slop. 6 inch strap in the front could take a hole sawing and still be strong. the seat is already against the back wall - the nitrous and fuel cell could be moved behind the wall for weight shiftage, but thats not a small job. .. i guess chain-drive rear arms would be a weight shift item bigtime.. man, i remember old culitvators had chain drive arms.. but they didnt have to hold big power. also a big job too..