matts87glsedan

" I figured out yesterday that i have one curcit blocked on master and only was useing half of master but the other half was dead heading and fighting me " aww crap! so maybe that caliper doesnt need to be on there, lol. oh well, good practice for my car .

getting the second bracket welded on caliper bolted up after a fair bit of back and forth, clearancing on both the bracket and the caliper with a grinder to get the pads to have a full grab on the rotor. shot of the finished product, with ivans double banjo, hard line/soft line plumbing. the toyota calipers are now heli coiled to take the banjo threads. they almost got thrown in the trash at one point haha. long day, but nice to see it finished at the end

too bad we couldnt just shorten one, then i could start the tounge and groove before i part out the center, and the splines would be lined up properly. its the same splines on both ends, and the grooves are in the same position relative to the end of the shaft. But the snap ring one is 1.75mm wide by .8mm deep, and the other one is 2mm wide by 2.5mm deep. oh and also, the snap ring end seems to have a larger diameter behind the splines that the cup pushes up against... damn.

definitely was fun, im glad i came out. Thats a great location - sand, rock piles, pits, jumps, one quicksand hole, haha. when the water goes down some more it looks like it'll be even better. the buggy is hella fun to drive - revs up so fast you have to be out of 1st within about 30ft, then when the boost comes on in second it hits like 2 stroke power-band and holy shite, its time to test your manhood. I had it 'floating' in a straight line and dont think i used more than 60% of available power. gotta say, a clear windshield would definitely help though. i never quite knew when i was going to run out of land! it was also sweet to just crawl it around in the pits too. full skidplate on the bottom to roll into a hole, then LSD rear end, and lots of power to chew up and out the other side. i could do that all day and not even bother draggin' it. I'm really pissed that i didnt line up a video camera though. there was enough action to make a great little edit... stuck dodges, broken axles, drunkards, dirtbikes.. There was enough other people filming that maybe some of it will turn up on youtube. The crapinator was turning some heads.

got some documentation of the pre may-long upgrades. I'm the cosmetic guy, which is pretty funny - Ivan did the paint job "dont touch the paint!" , I made some decals to fancy her up a bit. Ivan layed in the 3 inch turbo back exhaust and i finished evening # 2 on the super explodation blast shield. didnt even get a pic of how sweet the fit is. oh well, next time. meanwhile, pete and ivan bring in the hood, after i 'finally' got out of the way. marty the smooth operator dropped in right as i was taking this picture - so his rump roast goes on the internet . Some of the weekends activities on the trailer. plus ivan rebuilt two hybrid axles , and probably did some other stuff maybe we have vid cams for beach days . i was wondering ivan if you could run a driveshaft brake to help hold it back, or if it would just get folded over, hang you up, etc.

its for the 'backfill the pipe with nitrous super explodation' sequence.

hey ivan heres the official report haha all right, i did something , so i can write a few words in here. went over on saturday and built a kind of front clip type thing for the Crapinator, to hold on the hood and grill for race rules compliance. Started by welding two pieces of angle onto the frame (yellow pieces) with holes in them to pop on some M8 nutclips. Actually called 'extruded U-nuts' if you want to check them out. they give you a captive nut wherever you need one - very handy for attaching stuff cuz you dont need a back wrench. then attached one end of the big six inch by 1/8 flat aluminum, and bent it around to the other side. couple of in and outs to tweak the bends and cut the second end to length and it was in. pretty tight to the pulley in front, about a 1/4 inch clearance i think. after that, the 4 inch up and over strap that the hood pins will rest on. same thing - bend one end, mark on the other then bend and trim to fit. attached with self tappers since its permanent. then front brace from 4 inch to six inch piece. I was going to do some angle braces from the skidplate up to the 6inch front piece, but after a safety meeting i thought it was more safe to use a piece of six inch for more belt protection. it has to be on the outside cuz im very close to the pulley already. then ivan gave it the once over and called for some braces to the strut top bolts, which was a good call. now its starting to feel pretty solid. Still needs a piece of angle across the underside of the top crossmember for stiffness, but feelin pretty good. it'll hold a skinny mans weight without buckling at all. then, since the new motor is in , it was time for some neighborhood test launches t-minus five seconds... on pavement, with the paddle tires - it squats down, then flys out of the hole like a bobcat that REALLY wants to rip your face off. I think it actually bent the space/ time continuum as it went by, and thats why this picture looks so weird. so, a few of those and it was time to put it away before the cops showed up. New motor sounds mean as flock. then, i went to the local speedway for the first time, and that was rad too. all in all, the best weekend ive had in a while.

got over to the shop late, took a few pictures of the progress... out with the old, in with the new more to come ...

for sure, they are the ultimate BC car, IMO. definitely seen a few in the kootenays as well as out here HA i didnt know it was the "Town Pump", now i feel dirty lol. Oh well, everyone else thought she was all used up, but i'll keep ridin' her...

did you get your shortblock together this weekend?

boy those are both very good condition! one day, maybe i'll have a car that isnt a rust bucket, haha.

thanks! its not exactly in the 'awesome' category yet, but it feels good to take a car that someone had pegged as no more than a parts donor, and turn it into a 600km per week daily driver. without breaking the bank, either - i'm into it for less than 400 bucks so far, including having the wheel spacer blanks water jetted.

funny i started on this board with a silver EA82 sedan, 5MT DR ( hence the unimaginative name). After an eventful life, commuting 12hrs one way and cruising the backcountry, that car got called for a bogus inspection, and was retired. So i picked up a 90 legacy auto with blown airbags. paid ivan to fix it up 4 years ago, then and drove it for 150 000km . until i finally abused it into a blown headgasket. which leads to... seeing a silver GL sedan being a lawn ornament on hwy 6. cold calling the place to meet the owner, who was in a generous mood. he took my #, then called me back 2 weeks later to say i could have it for free. its also a 5MT DR. rust repairs with a zip cut disc ensued. broken front springs replaced, broken front PS axle replaced, faulty coolant sensor replaced, new plugs cap wires and o2 sensor. then a gallon of rubberised undercoat and my tube bumper (which thankfully didnt sell). but the rusty 13's were disgusting, so i made some 4x140 to 5x100 , 1 inch thick spacers. these took some masterminding since they were 2 operations in the lathe, and the 5 hole pattern overlaps the 4 hole patterns' centering ring. you can see that they are bolted thru the back of the hub with 12.9 bolts instead of doubling up on the nuts. this lets them be much less thick.. The center bore is .010 larger than my 36mm socket. so i had to put the turtle wagon up on blocks so i could have the 14" alloys with the snow tires. a while after that, I saw that finnish guys thread with the engine crane strapped to the back of his car and thought, "i need one of those" . this one uses the captive nut in the trunk to anchor the back leg. I think i'll put some cable stays on the back of the arm, like a grain auger, haha. currently ive got a ej22 shortblock getting assembled this weekend if i get seals. heads are mildly ported. then marching towards getting that into the sedan, or something of the EJ variety. . also have a small garret turbo, and intercooler from a stock 240sx, for the future. and a LSD rear end that is feeling neglected, thats going to get remedied right away too. went for a drive, and was missing it going back up some wet, rocky FSRs. go spring!

ok that works, thanks monstaru. I was doing it the hard way for sure.

stopped in at ivans to check out the new action. My phone cam couldnt handle the shiny. heres the 251 block trimmed down with the ported heads on it. PowerFist engine stand represent! and the CP pistons a look right down the intake ports... im cautiously porting a set of ej22 heads for a daily driver right now - these were an eye opener. now for the external: i'd say it looks street legal now...except for that offroad light on the top needs a cover. All-Round - a mans best friend air intake and exhaust from the engine bay and the "cab". shot of the rear end. loyale diff handling some power. soon to be legacy rear tail lights and some body over the rear tires, i cant wait to see that. I think it needs a legacy bumper too, lol. maybe thow a hatch on the back instead of the spare... but those hatches are heavy. Givin' the hood the finger. the Crapinator could also be called the Mud Lotus, for Ivans shaving of ounces. cold running oil pressure, after a season of racing. it was actually more like 98, but the pic caught it at 92. not sure what oil is in it. springtime is good! sharing pics is a bitch in the new format. i shared these from photobucket by 1. clicking on the 'picture' icon in the reply window. it brings up a 'URL' sub- window 2. going to photobucket , right clicking on the picture, then 'copy img URL' (using the photobucket supplied codes didnt work). 3. go back to USMB window, where the sub-window is waiting for you, and copy in the URL. there is probably a better way, but i dont know it.

bump for an update? there is some good info here.

well, i drove it home 80km at highway speed, and it seems to be all good. still wondering about why the decent looking seal went in the first place, and hoping that it doesnt happen again in two days because of some other problem. unfortunately, i ended up overfilling the transmission during the drive/ check level routine. its on the hot/full line when its cold. potential problem there? thanks milesfox for the videos , those helped for sure. i happened to have a digital angle finder in the shop where i was working. before the engine went in, i measured the angle that the face of the bellhousing was sitting at , then matched the angle of the hanging engine to it. this made mating the two surfaces super easy for a solo operation.

ok, 8hrs later, the engine is out. for me, thats a decent time haha. the TC came with the engine a bit forward, but i didnt pll the small shaft out of the large shaft on the trans side of things, so hopefully everythings still in proper place there. the large shaft seal was not in its place when i got the engine clear, so i assume that was my problem. it doesnt look beat up though - actually it looks pretty damn good, and fits decently tight in its proper place. could my transmission have pressured up and blown a decent seal out of its seat? or should i just not stress about it since the car has 160 000 miles on it, and throw in the new seal and hope for the best...

all right thanks everyone, its going well so far. ive got the accessories off, now im just getting to unbolting the TC and hooking up the crane and such.

hmm i guess it will be easy enough to work on the TC in the car once the engine is out of the way... well i just got it manouvered into the shop and under the crane. quick disconnect list: drain coolant drain A/C disconnect power steering fuel lines air intake wire harness brake booster hose throttle cables battery still easier than going in underneath huh? i will believe the wisdom of the board, since i have done neither on this car before. venting the A/C to atmosphere is a bit sad, i dont think ill be filling it back up again.

Ahhh thank you ! Lol I looked at pg 1 of that thread and said " well this blows, the pics are gone" and didn't continue further. Being on my phone in the airport doesn't help either. Maybe johnceggleston could edit the title to say " pics on pg3 " for morons like me. Your axles pulled off ok once the trans was back a bit?

Thx lmdew that helps. Car has 250000kms on it, ( divide by 1.6 for miles). Shifted fine and didn't make any noise before this. I called the dealership and the parts guy gave me 806750050 as the subaru part number , cost of 15 dollars, for what he said was the only seal in there. Does that sound right? The ATf filter has been bypassed. I didn't check that hose but since it was pouring out the bottom I don't think that's it. Milesfox, how much work is involved in replacing that seal once the trans is out of the car? Can anyone point me to a thread with pics? Johnceggleston wrote up a great TC thread but again, the pic links are broken.

hi everyone i had some trouble with my trans last sunday on the way to work. i noticed that i was turning 3000rpm to do 90kms an hour on the highway, which usually takes about 2300rpm. to i tapped the gas and the car revved up to 4500, but my speed got slower. i immediately pulled over and witnessed all my trans fluid puking out from the bellhousing area of the car. i then scrambled to get it off the edge of the road, flat towing it 5km with the fwd fuse in, car in neutral, and engine running to give me some brake power on the sketch pull to the work yard. then i got on an airplane the next day and went for 5 days of training in edmonton. Now, im flying home tomorrow night, and i have to go straight in to work and try and fix this thing so i can commute on sunday night again. -front diff is un polluted with atf would that mean that its most likely the trans input shaft seal? - any steel lines below the trans and in front? of the crossmember dont have any rust or obvious holes in them after searching for a decent amount of time, i cant find any auto trans removal threads that dont have broken pic links. i am concerned about how to unbolt the torque converter from the engine side. could it be worse than just a seal? any other tips for me before i tear into this thing? my main goal is to get the trans out - if i can fix a seal myself then great i'll try and get it back in, but if its more than that i plan on just hauling it out to ivan with the trans in the back and paying for whatever is beyond me.

that adapter is an excellent idea - but it turns out that i have been jumping the gun on the ecu swap. I spoke to a tech from technocarb today, to ask him why specifically the car had to be obd2, and he said that i didnt even have to worry about it (even though its written on the front page of their website ) . it was just a quick conversation so i need to get some details via email, but it sounds like the whole computer change is unnecessary. the bad news was that the TC control module isnt actually a stand alone ecu (too much to ask i guess), so i may be doing the adapter down the road anyway. thanks for the replies though, the forum continues to come through

true. even easier than that would be to just buy a newer car, which believe me, i would do if there was a budget for it. this one has been run at highway speed into the ditch and under a barbed wire fence lengthwise, the power locks dont work, the windshield is cracked, the interior is shot, etc. but unfortunately, the conversion kit is 1000$ plus tax , and thats already money i dont have. so i was really hoping to make it work in this car. but thank you , i know its not the ideal way to go about it. so i guess the next step is to find a '96 computer from a 2.2 automatic, and a pinout of it , and my '90. i see many little masking tape flags in my future. wish me luck. and hopefully find a harness from a '90 auto as well, so if i eff it all up, i can swap the original back in.