matts87glsedan

you may be correct about re thinking things. i was hoping to get away with minimal expenses over and above the cost of the propane system and its computer/tuning software. having to also set up megasquirt to get it to operate would most likely blow my budget all to hell. I think ill have to speak more with the technocarb rep about why their system requires OBD2. in the installation PDF , it mentions installs on cars not having on board diagnostics at all ... although if it comes down to it, i think i'd be willing to tackle re-pinning my cars wires into the new cars ecu plugs. i have the complete propane system out of an old taxi (tank,hoses, vaporiser, mixer, carb , solenoid valves, etc) - so i could also probably try to make that work with a distributor - but i liked the idea of having a tuneable computer and multipoint fuel injection.

hmm thx GD i wonder if it would be easier overall to take the entire harness from the '96 along with the ecu, and then try to match all the plugs up under the hood. i guess i will have to take a bunch of pictures of both the OBD1 and OBD2 underhood and compare them. unfortunately this is the only ej that ive owned, so im a bit clueless about their different incarnations.

hi again the gl sedan got forcibly retired, so ive been driving a 1990 legacy 2.2 automatic for the last couple of years. its been a good car, i swapped out the blown factory airbags, and did a 2.5 inch lift, plus a few other things. i do about 700km /week of commuting and some light wheeling on weekends. 1.30/L gas prices have got me thinking about switching to propane, using the technocarb ESIP system. I like this one because it comes with what looks like a pretty sweet engine management program (although i have no experience with them), and the company is located close to me. the trick is, they require an OBD2 ecu. So, could it be as simple as installing the ecu from a 95 2.2 legacy automatic? My mechanic is running a newer rs with a 1990 ecu, i am hoping it goes both ways. anyway, im off to the junkyard today to pick one up, but i thought i would check in with the board and see if anyone has experience mixing and matching ecu's. thanks again for any info.

ok finally got around to swapping in the known good IAC. i sure wish they had just used hex head bolts to mount that thing instead of screws, cause they are a PITA behind the power steering resevoir. I had to grip them with vise grips to break them loose, then fortunately they twisted out by hand after that. so, ran it up to temp and... it still does the exact same thing. i'm thinking go over it again looking for vac leaks? anyway, i'll be away from the computer for the next week, but i thought i'd just keep this thread alive...

well the engine was warm, but i had shut it off then went out and started it, so it could have been in its high idle startup mode at the time... its interesting that your idle picked up when you unplugged the MAF, it makes me think something may be up with mine, i'll have to clean it also... must find the can of sensor cleaner now... thanks for the offer about the IAC test, but i found my manual now so i'll just look it up again..

yes my car sounds like the video when he unplugs his MAF. quick short repetition. I went out and pulled the plug on my MAF for kicks, and it gave no change in the cars idle at all... i expected something to happen. then i pulled the plug on the IAC and it immediately stalled. could someone more knowlegeable than i tell me if those are normal results? . i'll try this too.

ohh thats from me doing the SPFI swap .. doh! no my car is a 5sp dr . doesnt look like i'll get that IAC in tonight, i just got off work and i'm out of daylight... prolly this weekend i'll do it.

no i do have a parts car that idled fine , maybe tomorrow i'll take the IAC off it and swap it onto my sedan. I noticed last night that i was getting a code 51 while i was driving , but i cant find my manual to look it up...

did you figure this out? (bump)

a clean of my IAC didnt solve my problem, i removed it and disassembled and cleaned with carb cleaner. perhaps it needs replacement though... i also get no code stored. but hey it cant hurt for you to give it a try. i also set and tested my tps as per the FSM directions... it didnt solve the problem either, but again , you might as well rule it out yourself... good luck

my car has been doing the same thing for almost a year now, so i watch this post with interest. All my previous threads regarding it got little to no response, i hope you have better luck . I am now going to go and check my egr (again).

there is a blue and a brown relay side by side under the dash. i'm 90% sure that the blue relay is your fuel pump. I was fooling with mine a year ago, and time has its affects on my memory ....

" uhh , sorry about your dog, mom... "

i got mine out of a pick and pull and it was about 150$ for everything. although i rolled up to the counter and said " intake manifold, fuel pump, distributor" when the girl asked me what i had - i almost got through the transaction when the head cashier looked over her shoulder and was like "whoa buddy, you got a lot more than just an intake manifold there" , and proceeded to charge me for every vac line and fuel hose and sensor on the thing :-p . so maybe my price was a bit high.

the matt tracks dont have enough flotation for me, i'm talkin true snowcat style. 2 12 foot by 32 in tracks make 64 square feet of footprint. if it weighed 5500 lbs, thats .6 psi. when you say lump, are you referring to the cam? sorry, i dont understand. Mechanical drive, you're right, i could never have enough torque to turn them. The Princess Auto shop in Calgary will design a hydraulic system for free if i give them the details of the motor, wheel dimensions, etc, so they will give me the final word if the ea82 will be able to run a sufficient hydraulic pump. the idea is to use the 4wd output shaft to turn a pump mounted in place of the diff. then theres http://www.all-track.ca that has parts and such, so i could grab some drive sprockets , and a conveyor belt site that i cant remember right now that stocks the goods to build the tracks. that pistenbully that i looked at uses 13in rims so the wheels should be cheap.

hah, check out this - http://www.pistenbullyusa.com/ i wanted to buy a snowmobile, but i read some articles about how one day on a sled in the mountains pollutes the same as driving a 4 cyl car around for one year... so, might as well take a 4 cyl car into the mountains.. I stress that this idea is still in the R & D phase, but i have seen it done once before with an old lincoln continental

well, i decided to not be so effing lazy and go and jack up my car to look under it. and uh oh , bad DS ball joint... but that aside it looks like i could sit the car on a frame at the engine crossmember bolts in the front, and on the pipe that the trailing arm mounts to in the rear (who's technical name i do not know.) this is all regarding building a subframe to run a set of 32" wide snow cat tracks. strip all the suspension and steering off my 93 loyale and bolt it on top of the subframe. i had ideas to use the suspension originally, but i had a good look at a proper snowcat today, and using the suspension would make the thing like 11 feet wide. anyway, mock on, , i'm going to go get a ball joint.

sweet, thanks for the hookup. i like the exhaust styles on that one... Anyone else have have different angles maybe? is that your beast on its side?

like the title says. after scrolling thru the fsm and htkysa pdf's that i have, and doing a search in the photo gallery, i have come up with nothing. I am looking for a shot of the entire underbelly of an ea82, like if it was up on a hoist, or flipped on its side... anybody have one? or care to take one if your car is up on a hoist right now? i want to ponder some mounting points for a crazy idea that i have.... i'm too embarrased to say what it is yet... :-p

thanks much for the reply... so a junk yard score will be the only way i will find gears for this thing then... since the whole thing is a rather low budget operation, maybe the diff will go untouched for a while. the owners manual only lists one automatic trans as an option, and thats the turbo-hydramatic 350. (i didnt crawl under it to confirm, because i wouldnt know how) A "motorhome* registration is not such a bad thing i agree. the problem is this is an out of province vehicle. what i SHOULD have done, was get the thing inspected before i started massacre-ing it. now, they're talking that i need a mechanichal engineer to look at it ($$$$) before i can get it into this province. Ahh, hindsight . To go back and make it look like a motorhome again would be too much for me. I'd rather like you say, chop another cab on the van frame, and then swap all my known good, low K parts onto that frame. but then it would'nt have the same weight rating anymore... anyway, thanks again, what do you think about the trans?

my local army surplus owner imports these and sells them for 8 to 12000 cdn dollars, when i worked in the oil patch i almost bought one.... they are so sweet. He also imports unimogs, someone here in town has one thats bobbed, flat deck, etc. I almost crapped myself when i saw that thing.

i had some trouble with my thermoswitch last year, and wired my cooling fan to a switch on my dash. Its not a perfect setup because its 16 guage wire run from a tap behind my fuse box (on the fan wire), to a dash switch, to the fan. the fan is grounded at the thermostat housing. the poles on the switch get hot, like hot enough to mildly burn a finger on. I want to use my existing wiring to power a relay. The fan is listed in the FSM as 120 watts (so 10 amps right?). The only relays i have right now are the round underdash ones (i think for headlights and such) listed at 20 amps. Is there any reason i shouldnt use this relay? it should handle 10 amps no problem? my existing 16 gauge wire should be fine for the low power side, what guage should i use for the high power side? I used daerons write up to wire two 100w spots with a relay, so i've done this once before, i am just paranoid about those round relays for some reason. thanks , and if you see any other problems with my set up, please let me know. ( i dont want to burn up my car!)

in my photo gallery you'll see some pics of a flatdeck chop that i did (some of you posted some helpful tips in my previous thread) . It was originally a 74 gmc vandura 'corsair' motorhome. due to my ignorance, i finished this project only to realise that the motorhome "frame" is not the same as a standard van/truck frame , and therefor cannot be registered 'as is' as a 3 ton vehicle. (its current door stamp lists it as 6000 lbs rear axle wieght). sooo, i have this thing that i want to get on the road, and i'm going to have to pull some shenanigans to make it happen. shenanigans aside, i have some mechanical questions : i have an 84 vandura for parts. my automatic 74 dually vandura revs extemely high before shifting (formerly a motorhome), and has a low highway speed. I think that i can fix my low highway speed by putting some better gears in the diff. will the gears from a 84 3/4 ton vandura fit in my '74, 3 ton diff, and will they be a better highway gearing? visually, the 3ton diff cover is asymetrical, whereas the 3/4 ton diff cover is more uniformly round. from the front of the vehicle, the diffs look fairly well the same. overall, is a diff gear swap a feasible idea to increase driveability on this vehicle? can anyone speak to the high rev before shift ? i will load this thing up sometimes, but i am not carrying 6000lbs all the time on it, so what are my options. feel free to ask me to specify more. thanks.

WHOA! THOSE ARE BIG POTHOLES! You could actually lose a car in some of them... i'm still going to complain about mine tho' ...