matts87glsedan

bump a semi old post finally watched this vid and it ruled. went searching on youtube afterward and didnt find much to compare... so yeah, awesome vid. like the music selection aswell.

i didnt like the toyota setup at first but now that i've done some stuff to it it's grown on me. The inline engine makes for easy access to most things ( although i dont like where the alternator sits). I did do the front main seal but all i had to do was pull the rad and then the crankshaft pulley, i didnt have to touch any of the timing cover bolts thank god. So yeah the new seal fixed the leak. We drove it around town a bit, got rid of all the accumulated cardboard in the box , and she seems to be all good. only thing now is that my timing light doesnt seem to work on it for some reason, but thats minor. Now its beer time

hmmm, AK for sale... wonder how that'd fly with the canadian customs agents.. nice car too

"although I told you it was 180 out a year ago " dude... i know man, i just didnt understand the concept... and like i said, i wasnt super motivated to figure it out because it wasnt my vehicle. Unfortunately, my friend didnt put any oil in the case and it sat the whole year like that. After fixing a hole in the rad, i put oil in it (not in the rad :-p ), started it and warmed it up to burp the rad, set idle, set timing, etc. Well, i'm guessing the front main seal dried out, because it started leaking oil from behind the crank pulley really bad, so now I'll have to get in there and see whats happening. I hope there arent any other lingering side effects from sitting with no oil for so long.

"Sounds like your 180 out. The dist is pointing at #! the engine is tdc but its on the exhaust stroke. Turn the motor 360 the rotor should be 180 from #1 remove the dist point the rotor at #! insert dist and fire her up!" And the 'penetrating the cement skull' award goes to.... SECREWBARU! I AM A REETARD! How many times have i been told that? i am ashamed to think about it. I must just have blind luck with the sube disty because i've NEVER done that with it before, and i've had it in and out prolly 15 times when i did my spfi swap. lesson learned i guess. Its sad to think that i'm the smart one about cars around here At least i've got a toyota fsm now... thanks for the link 'junkie .

this is an 83... should be pretty much the same though? i'm just working with a haynes right now..

i was really hoping someone wasnt going to say timing chain :-p I think i'll start with the valve clearances. Thanks a bunch .

I'm back again with the exact same vehicle, same problem, so i thought i'd just dredge up the old post. ( maybe it should be moved to the non sube section tho') . ive just TDC' ed the #1 cylinder again, disty is in pointing at #1 on the cap, firing order is checked (1342), plug wires are in their proper places, and its still blasting fuel/air mix out the carb intermitently when i turn it over. background - we swapped a 2wd engine into this 4wd truck a long time ago, and it hasnt run since. ( i stopped caring when we pushed it to the side of the garage - i didnt feel like doing the work on someone elses truck... but now theres money involved ) i noticed that there was qite a bit of lag between my turning the crankshaft, and the rotor starting to move. any toyota masters out there?

thanks, its a little bit academic now, because he did go and buy himself a not too bad nissan pickup for 900 bucks. By now his car is in the impound lot for sitting in a public parking lot with no plates, and he wont be paying the impound fee. i'm actually worried that he's going to get a hellacious bill for ditching his car. maybe i can get it for nothing at the auction eventually. it was kind of a *************** to work on the transverse engine setup, but it still hurt a bit to see him just toss his car like that.

so my friend had a 87 v6 beretta that was popping out of first gear. then it started popping out of fifth. then he drove it 2hrs away from home, and the the thing stopped moving entirely when he got there. he says the stick is loose and not moving anything in the transmission. i.e. he can move the stick but it wont even grind the gears if he doesnt have the clutch pressed... so, that would be a linkage possibly? it sucks because it was a good car but he just abandoned it in a parking lot because he was sick of it. now he wants to go and spend 600 dollars on a POS , but i'm wondering if we could get it running again for less than that. anyway, any ideas what maybe happened to it? i'd appreciate some suggestions.

i had the good fortune to be given a lincoln weldpack 100 a few years ago that has treated me well. i've done some semi large sheetmetal projects with it. the bottle and regulator for it was a 250$ touch, but gmaw is the way to go. I need to pre heat anything ove 1/8 with a propane torch to get good penetration.

how bout some squares under mounted on the top rail of your bumper... just a thought. i'm putting two 100w rounds on my 2x3 bumper right now. but i wasnt thinking when i built it and the lights have to stick out front of it because of lack of clearance to the hood.. grr. sorry no pics... yet.

destructive testing is always educational to others.... good work out there .

ok i've been trying to just shut up and figure things out for myself lately, but once again i'm on a tight schedule and i need some help. My spfi has been running great since the swap in the spring, but its developed some probs now. It was idling high, so i checked and adjusted the TPS to get the idle switch to close. that worked and the idle came down from 2200 to 1100 rpm. now its idling at 1100, but repetitively creeps up to 1500, then drops back to 1100, every 10 seconds or so. How should i fix that? I know i read a description of whats happening there once, but i cant find it. I checked codes and am showing coolant temp sensor (swapped that out), and o2 sensor. still doing it with the CTS swapped. problem doesnt occur when i have the green connectors together. ok thanks for any info.

sweet. i have a 440 Stinger at home that i want to drag out here this winter. should be fun times.

ah hah ha BC licence plate.. those rule

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=17231&cat=500&ppuser=18986 well, its done. i contact cemented some berber carpet to the inside to hide my body work... it looks pretty good. the finish bondo is not that pro, you can see that its not smooth and in some places needs another coat of putty,, but for a work truck i'm satisfied. I ended up painting with the foam roller teck thats been on older gen not too long ago. I didnt have any runs, but it turned out uniformly orange peeled. This is probably because i didnt have my paint quite thin enough, and also didnt bother sanding in between coats. It still took 4 days to get 4 coats on. overall, from six feet away - looks fine to me.

this explains why i cant trace the brake wire... BECAUSE ITS NOT THERE ! ok upon further inspection it turns out that the vac line is for cruise, and there actually was a pedal switch hiding behind the vac line. sometimes, i am very unobservant. well, now i should be able to move on to paint... thanks.

hey thanks nipper - its kind of a 'love it or hate it' machine, sometimes i dont know what side i'm on :-p . as far as reflectors, i'm going to put a line of reflective tape across the back bumper. i've still got the mudflaps from its days as a motorhome, so those'll go back on when i get the deck built. right now i'm just trying to find the brake wire. I got everything else pegged, but i've never worked on this brake setup before. There's a vac hose that the pedal activates. this hose goes to a device on the engine, that has a 2 wire connector. the wires are marked HOLD and ENGAGE. these wires run back under the dash and dissapear into the harness. I may just say screw it and wire my own switch to the pedal.

ok thanks. that'll save me some confusion .

ahh dammit, i meant vandura. I used to own a vanagon too, so i always F that up. :-p yeah, i guess i'll be chasing and testing. I forgot about the fuel guage, so thanks for reminding me about that. it'll be 12v when the key is on? I had one that was only 8.5 when i tested earlier. perhaps thats my fuel guage wire? otherwise, i should have one wire each for running lights,leftsignal, right signal, and brakes, correct? thanks - Matt.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=17000&cat=500&ppuser=18986 this used to be a motorhome, but the roof and walls went rotten on me. I couldnt get rid of it though, so i decided to turn it into a flatdeck work truck. Its a 3ton, with 37,000 miles on it. I'm actually looking for a wiring diagram for it right now, to hook up the new tail lights. Anyone out there have a manual and want to tell me what the brake/running/signal light wire colors are? damn things arent in stock anywhere here, not even the library. its a 74 vanagon by the way.

hey, i dont know what your circumstances are, but i would consider moving the engine forward instead of dropping the tranny. that seems to be the generally accepted way to go. I dropped my tranny out when i did my clutch and i wished i had done it the other way. with a hoist and a proper tranny jack it would be ok, but with the car on jack stands and a floor jack, i HATED it.

pretty sure he means the pink PJ's in durania's post,

i used edrach's thread, and have used his method ever since. I found no fault with it at all. i've done 8 fronts for different reasons on 2 different ea82's. i have 3 different short lengths of pipe that i put under the castle nut and pry the axle thru with.