matts87glsedan

so in the end i went with removing the three trailing arm bolts and the lower strut bolt. it wasnt really rusted on that bad, i just needed the extra wiggle room to work it off the stub. to re align the three holes i put a chain pipe wrench around the hub/arm, and slowly lifted my floor jack up under the handle to twist the holes into place. (wish i had a camera to take a pic of that bit.) i also had a c-clamp holding the flat metal with the holes in it against the arm with the nuts. (like that technical terminology? )

well, i will be NOW! good thing i went to the beach today instead of continuing to fight with the welded bolt... and i guess i'll give the bearing a second chance too.. perhaps the roller cone being not tight is letting the shaft move some. these are cones in the rear, right? this is what i have read. hell yes. my GLsedan is so much nicer to work on since ive had so much of it apart and cleaned and oiled bolts. this thing hasnt been apart in 20 years and it came from new brunswick.. which is in the rust belt 100%.

ok thanks for the tips guys. unfortunately i have found my rear wheel bearing is gone on that corner as well. grrr. i was removing the brakes to get my impact gun on the bottom strut bolt, when i noticed the wobble in the spline shaft. (sorry if my terminology is not right, but i'm sure y'all understand what i'm talking about.)... so thats another story i guess. still havent got the strut bolt out either.

yeah, it is sliding back and forth some,maybe 3/8 inch or so. well, its on jack stands now, so i'll throw the jack under the diff and see if i can make it work that way. doing things for the first time always seems more painful.

well, maybe i will hit the guy up on letting it go, but i was kind of wanting to sell this thing after its passed the inter prov. inspection, and wanted it to look good to any prospective buyers. i am leery of getting the torch out ( theres a leaky gas line back there right now), but i was thinking about maybe dropping the diff - would that help getting it off? its dark right now so i cant go look at the thing, i'm just tossing the idea around.

so i'm working on the 93 loyale i picked up for 300$. i've done a front cv, ball joint, ds door latch. now i'm on to replacing a rear inner axle boot, and i cant get the rusty mother to come off the diff stub. does anyone haave any technique regarding getting these off? I've had fronts in and out many times but never a rear and its being a real bastard... ok cheers, Matt.

ok thanks G, you just made me a little smarter...

my meter didnt come with instructions. now i find myself testing plug wire resistance and i dont really know how to read the thing. my resistance settings are 200 2000 20k 200k 2000k. are these the maximum ohms tested at each given setting? for example. at 200, the meter reads infinity. at 2000, the meter reads infinity. at 20k, the meter reads 3.80. does this mean 3,800 ohms? at this setting, would the meter read up to 19,999 ohms, then beyond that read infinity? somewhat of a dumb question, i know, but i couldnt find a manual online for my meter... thanks , Matt.

definitely more than one thing. there was a bad ecu, the pin 47 power or no power debate, and the mystery of the non matching disty wires. thanks to cougar, numbchux, Gloyale, and daeron for supplying answers and ideas. may this thread now slide peacefully into obscurity....

ah ha, thats just the description i needed too... i can now drill my 14's.

fixed. i put the booster hose in backwards. i didnt know there was a one way check in it, so the booster wasnt getting any vac.. oops. well, at least my booster wasnt wrecked :-p

ok thanks i'll try it tomorrow. i tapped in to it because the booster vac hose i picked up already had the fitting in it so i figured wtf, it cant hurt... but maybe it can.

searching i find threads about spongy brakes, but none about hard brakes, which is what i have. my stopping power is not nearly what it should be. sooo, any ideas ? i have a vac line tapped into the brake vac hose, could that be the problem? this has developed after my spfi swap. i did top up the brake fluid while it was in the garage, but as far as i know i did not touch the brakes. i got tired of my 10 page thread, i thought i'd start a new one.

yeah its a stupid fix but i'll take it. although what the hell is with the colors not matching up across the plug? Its running nice and smooth now though. just hafta get the fender back on and button up a few things so i can take it for a test drive.

IT IS RUNNING, AND SHOWING NO CODES. this whole mess is because the first harness i bought at the junk yard had the disty plug cut off. i went to another car and got a disty, then cut off its plug and used a 4 pin male and female trailer plug unit, matching up the wires color for color. BUT THEY ARENT COLOR TO COLOR! i started this thread on may 12. time to do spfi swap - FIVE WEEKS! glen, with my battery reading 12.47v, the disty wires read like this- green - 5.14, or .29, depending on rotor position white - 5.14 or .16, depending on rotor position all is DCv i now have to ask about my fuel lines. things are not how they should be on the ol' GL. the steel line running along the frame rail below the coil is currently my supply. my return is the larger of the two steel lines up by the windshield motor. the smaller steel line up there is not attached to anything. the vac hose that angles up from behind the driver side of the intake manifold is plumbed into the brake vac hose. (This hose, on all spfi cars ive looked at, goes to what is now my fuel supply line. However, when i hooked it up this way, i pumped my charcoal canister full of fuel. ) so, let me repeat, the car is running. is this configuration harmful or dangerous at all?

well this is getting confusing. I took my GL ecu and distributor (which are the ones that i swapped in), and put them into the running 93 loyale test car. The car runs. so both of those components are good. funny thing is, the wires dont match up color to color. on the body side they are 1 -red 2 - green 3- white 4- black on the disty side they are 1 - red 2 - white 3 - green 4 - black so green and white are opposite, and red and black match up. i think this could be my problem. i guess i will now put the ecu and disty back into the gl with the white and green wires opposite, and see what happens.

yeah, the thing runs nice, and has no grind at all when shifting. but its only Single range though. worst case, i can swap this engine into my GL and get my spfi that way... but not yet. I was thinking more madmax bush buggy actually:grin:

well, i'm looking for position wire ACvoltage while cranking just for comparison thanks agian

i now own a 93 loyale. Cost 300 dollars, plus 50 for a tow when the battery died driving it home. ( alt isnt charging for some reason.). but hey, it drives, and it was 300 bux. its an east coast rust bucket unfortunately, and it'd need minimum a new windshield to pass an interprovincial inspection, but this will hopefully be the key to getting the GL back on the road. every good sube owner needs at least one parts car, right?

well, its raining on the farm so im back to try and fix my effing car. Theres a running 92 loyale in the paper for 300 bux. i'm trying to get ahold of the guy right now so's i can buy it and test my disty and computer in it (and add to my sube collection of course). it'll be a miracle if its still there, but maybe god will smile on me. in the mean time... Daeron? did you test that voltage by chance? i hate to ask, but man i could use some help big time... THIS JUST IN.... 300 dollar car is still there.. i think i'm buyin it!

my puddle on top was the intake manifold gasket.

well thanks everyone for the input, but i am admitting defeat. I have to go farm for a couple of weeks, and i'm out of time now . I'll resurrect this thread when i get back, but if you have any ideas in the mean time let me know. greyhound station, here i come.

yep, it is still throwing the code, even though there are pulses from the CAS position wire. i'm testing for spark by holding my coil wire just off of ground. it is the coil that ran my car before so i assume it is good. I'm 90% sure that the donor car didnt have auto belts, but i'm going to the yeard again today so i will double check. but my fuel pump is cycling, and pumps gas well, so thats no problem (actually i do have a q about fuel pump lines but i'm not even going to bring it up till the spark is fixed). ive been thru the ecm plugs pin by pin and checked everything for ground and power. all power inputs have 12v, and all grounds have continuity, except pin 9 air flow meter, which i'm not worried about yet. fuse five horn/hazard/clock checks out. my horn quit working a while ago but the hazards are still operational. this step does not make sense to me in the flow chart. I dont know what they are referring to by the "female terminal" either. I just went and re -did the flow chart steps. by the chart, if the female terminal is open, its "repair terminal or replace body harness". If its not (meaning it has continuity), then "replace crank angle sensor". All 4 terminals on my body side plug have either voltage or continuity. so replace crank angle sensor? thats where i was at the last time i did the flow chart, but i dont know what to do. Maybe i should just throw money at it and replace both ecm and disty.... but they'll be JY.

well its ok inside... i wish i had access to a known good ecu. rolling the dice on jy computer #3 is really going to piss me off. is it unusual for the computer to malfunction on just a single process? everything else is working just fine..

ok i couldnt get the wire out of the back of the connector, is there a trick to that? ' sorry misread the post. i have to go inside the ecu , okay.