matts87glsedan

so i went down to radio shack and instead of getting a resistor and led i picked up a pre wired car led. its rated for 12 v. i then used some alligator clips and got set up to test the white wire while cranking. It gave me a bunch of nice clean blinks. so the disty is sending the signal right? the ecm isnt registering it? that would make it not tell the coil to fire? thanks for the idea cougar, what do you think of those results?

so "check if female terminal of connector (body side) is open" - no its not (thanks daeron). if no - "replace crank angle sensor" - end of trouble shooting diagram. this will be disty #3. "jiggery-pokery " - nhah ha huh, huh huh. i'm sure my first one was pooched tho', because it wouldnt send any decent voltage to the disy, whereas this second one gives me good readings 12v, 5v, 5v, for the power and the 2 signals, and it cycles the fuel pump. :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

ok thanks cougar, i will check that, but i've just come in from doing the FSM code 13 troubleshooting and this is what i got: "check if continuity exists between terminal B(black) of connector (body side) and the body" YES i have continuity - 8.5 with ohms set at 20k then go to- "check if the female terminal of connector (body side) is open." - i dont understand what this means! can you tell me how to perform this check? (i will also go and look thru the fsm for a description) with meter set to acvolts, i probed the wire just behind the ecm connector. key at run, it shows 10.3. then while cranking, it drops to 4.3ish . but holds there, it doesnt pulse. Although my meter is digital, so maybe i cant see the pulses. but like i said, it isnt jumping all over when i crank.

so far i've checked all grounds in ecm connectors for continuity removed coil bracket and shined under it with sandpaper twice shined manifold ground connection shined ground at the corner by the battey swapped in the second jy disty swapped in a second jy ignition amp. i'm using the coil that ran my car before(its accel) - i will go back to the oem though what else can cause a code 13 'no position signal' besides a bad disty?

yeah i've got that wire. It's covered in step 7 of the swap doc. Its getting 12v during cranking.

paid too much for a second hand disty at another yard. put it in, and still no spark, still code 13 after clearing codes, then cranking it over. rotated engine by hand until i had 5v on the white wire. went and probed white wire right in front of ecm (pin 21), and i did have 5v there too. the same problem with 2 different distys? new one is quoted anywhere from 380$ to 670$ . but is it my ecm maybe? this is JY ecm #2. or something else?

yeah.. led in the ecm, wish i had figured THAT out a few days ago. I stupidly thought i needed the CEL to check codes.. anyway, it was code 13 - no position signal. So i went back up to the jy, and theyve got no replacement disty in the yard.

sorry about the 2 threads, but i was getting desperate for some info. thanks for all the help so far. i'll pick up an LED and check my codes.

no spark at all. everythings got power, but still no spark.

on to pin 52 now... so i gots no spark. my guess is the ignition amplifier. I have 12v up to it in the black and white wire, and 12v on the coil (which was running my car before the swap). but heres the thing. i tested the w/y wire (pin 52) while the car was being cranked, and it showed no signal from the ecm. Is there supposed to be a voltage pulse in this wire? my new ecm seems to be operating normally (test connectors make the fuel pump cycle), but i know nothing about them and have no FSM. i shined up the metal under the coil bracket ok, done for the night.

the two black and whites go to pos.

yeah cougar thats what i have - high voltage at pin 47. when my green connectors are plugged in the pump cycles on and off like it should. so now i have to go back and figure out why i've got no spark. my disty power wire now reads 12v with the new ecm, and when i slow crank the engine i get 5v pulses from the 2 signal wires (like gloyale was saying to check). so why no spark ? next. can someone confirm which fuel lines are which for me? its been so long since i took the damn carb manifold off that i dont know which is which anymore. when i got the fuel pump running, the steel line that runs along the dr. side frame rail started spewing gas . I thought that the larger line up by the wiper motor was supply... now i'm not sure of any of them. ok cheers, thats it for now.

well, i dont know what to say dude, it does provide ground as far as i can tell. when i ground pin 47 (while unplugged from the ecm), the relay snaps shut and power is provided to the blue and white wire. so the grounding switch is inside the box . My fuel pump is cycling normally now, so i'm happy. thanks though, i was getting absolutely nowhere until you started giving me some info to work with..

hey dave. What i did need to know was should ecm pin 47 have 12v. I have determined that it should. i'm on to other things now. for instance, the hose and tube that i have shown in two pics on this page http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74947 were connected to each other on my donor car. so thats what i did on mine. well, when i got the fuel pump to run finally, that metal tube pumped gas all the way thru my vac system into my charcoal canister . I take it the tube is my fuel supply? i was told it was the vent line previously. so now i dont know where to get vac for the manifold hose, can you tell me that? and hey while i'm at it, should the w/y wire coming from pin 52 to the ignition amplifier produce a voltage pulse while i'm cranking the car? and if it should, what should i do since mine doesnt.

alright, i have finally sorted that out now. Thank You Numbchux - pin 47 SHOULD have 12v. now i can move on to trying to fire this thing up FINALLY! :headbang:

ok chux thanks, I was almost there but now i'll check that.

ya thanks man but i am following the swap doc carefully. my specific question is " should there be 12v flowing down the blue and black wire to pin 47 and the ecm?" this is what i have. After just now testing my relay again, i think it should, even tho i have been told it shouldnt. BUT i dont want to cook another ECM!

just trying to drum up some love for my spfi swap thread. I will donate 50 bux to the usmb if i can get this car back on the road today or tomorrow! come check it out on older gen !

yo sorry for the yelling but I am so desperate to get this car running.. its been almost 2 weeks out of commision and i'm going insane...read my spfi swap thread (The last pages) for the details.. but the short story is: got a new computer because i fried the old one. have been told by Gloyale that pin 47 ecm should not have 12v running down it new computer is in and working, but can i put in the fuel pump relay, which causes pin 47 to energise? i NEED this car to run! i'm 11 DAYS LATE FOR WORK!

ahh damn sorry i missed you Gloyale. I was up at the jy. ok. with ecm unplugged, and the relay unplugged, i had 12v only at the black and white relay wires. (1 and 2 in previous diagrams.) I then plugged in the relay and backprobed my blue/black wire with the ecm still unplugged. I now have 12v in the pin 47 blue/black wire. Next, i unplugged the relay and carefully plugged in the ecm. now when i probed pin 47 wire, i got zero volts. so the 12v is coming TO the ecm when the relay is plugged in. I got this same result with 2 different relays. as far as wire color, the wires came out of the 91 donor harness, so possibly this explains the difference. my other 93 harness has the same wires as the 91. so, now i have a new ecm, and i'd like to plug it in and check my disty wire voltages. Dare i do this with 12v going to the ecm through pin 47? hope you see this post today, you're help is invaluable dude .

so my HD mechanic friend figures that i've got a bad ecm. I didnt think to be more careful with it than i was (plug unplugging it with the key on and such), so i may have cooked it myself early on. off to the jy i guess.

http://www.zenithair.com/stolch701/index1.html rebuild and put it in one of these... qualifies as an ultralight here in canada :cool:

disty wires i compared with a plug from a backup donor harness that i have (dont ask). my wires are red - power supply has .48v green - ref sig. has 1.0v white - pos. sig. has 1.04v black - ground .48v coming out of the red ecm power wire cant be right.. i have a ecm stashed at the jy that i can pick up, but maybe i shouldnt plug that in with the blue/black fuel pump wire showing 12v like it is. grrrrrrrrr.....

"Without the fuel pump relay disconnected, key on, pin 47 should not output any voltage, does it?" -yes, pin 47 absolutely outputs 12v, with the relay in place. 12v is supplied to the relay and to the coil by the black and white wires. i have triple checked this connection. "Well the wire colors I reffered to test are the corresponding harness side of that pug. What colors are the wires on the body side of the disty plug" -on the body side, i still have black, green, red, and white as well. these were peeled out of the donor harness. i'll go figure out what each one is.

relay plug pic [] [1][2] [3][4] this is looking into the relay plug 1and 2 are black/w and have 12v when relay is unplugged, 3 and 4 have 0v. when i plug in relay and backprobe, 3 now has 12v (blue/black to pin 47). relay does not click when i unplug/plug it with key on. replaced relay with a different one from donor harness, and got the same result. is this enough info? the [] on top represents the little catch on the plug. I also did your disty tests. I have black,green,red,and white wires. black - ground green - 1v red - .5v white - 1v