matts87glsedan

ok black and white wires to fuel pump relay are confirmed to have power from a fused tap on the ignition pos wire. a blue/black wire runs from relay to pin 47 on ecm . this wire has 12v with ig. on. not good? could a bad relay do that?

check for what? I can confirm that i had 12v to pin 47 this morning. that is a fact.. unfortunately.. i will look to see why though..

hmm pin 47 no no.. i'll double check that as well..

ok i'll go and do this right now. i'll report back in 30 mins. what i did do so far was go and spin the disty by hand with everything connected and a plug hooked up to the coil wire. this gave no spark, but maybe my shielding not being grounded screwed up that test.

ok wire to wire the plug is connected properly. there are metal wires under the disty side sheathing that i took for some type of shielding. this stuff is not connected. there was no 12v to the blue/white fuel pump wire while i was cranking

well i will definitely recheck my disty wires. i had to wire in a 4 pin trailer plug because the plug was missing on the donor. this is the disty from a 93 loyale spfi, the harness and manifold and pump came from a 91. i'will also go and check my pump wire for 12v while cranking right now. thank you so much for the reply..

:banghead:

went thru ecm plugs pin by pin. things of note: pin 9 - no air flow meter ground pin 28 self shutoff signal shows 11.2v (all other readings were 12 .2 approx) pin 38 ignition switch has 12v pin 47 fuel pump has 12v all grounds (except af meter) check out all power input pins have 12v - also - with key at run, fuel pump wire blue/w gets no power. 2 black/w wires have 12v. relay does not click when i plug/unplug it with key on. bad relay? or no signal from ecm? pin 47 fuel pump in ecm connector shows 12v, so ecm must provide ground? IG relay clicks when i unplug/plug it .

ok disregard all previous posts i went back to the beginning and FOLLOWED THE INSTRUCTIONS like i should have in the first place. all is connected very carefully. But, I now have no spark at the coil wire. I have replaced coil with one that i know works, i have 12v at coil terminals, i have 12v at the ig. amplifier. I have double checked the wiring instructions in the swap manual, and it seems right. where to now? ok thanks for reading.. checked : coil bracket grounding - shined with sandpaper . still no coil spark. Ig. amp tests 23.8 with ohm meter set to 20k

ok. ive determined that besides the ignition relay brown plug), there is also a starter relay(blue plug). this was up on the driverside wall of the 91 . i have juice to the ignition relay, but not to the starter relay. now, the starter relay is computer controlled wwith a light green and yellow wire? the power input pins on the ECC show no voltage, although fuse 3 and 11 have juice. these two fuses are shown on my 87 fuse map to be EEC power. i am however using the 91 fuse box. there was also a black relay box beside the starter switch which i grabbed. incidentally, what does it do? it is 4:30 am, and i am going back to the garage:headbang:

http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Catalog/equipmentdatasheet.asp?p=7106 i have a Lincoln weldpack 100 . the heaviest thing its done is frame plating on a 57 willys jeep - done by my roommate who is a welder by trade. he had to pre heat with a torch to make decent welds on 3/16 material.(mig, not flux core). I have done a fair bit of sheet metal welds with it and am happy, but his comment is that anything smaller would be pointless. so 100 amp min. i guess.

well, heres where im at. I went ahead and pulled the whole dash forward harness from the 91 as suggested in the writeup by GD. now, like i was askin before, i just went ahead and peeled out the old harness, and hooked up the entire new harness in my car, thinking that i wouldnt have to run any power to anything after if i went this way, except probably the fuel pump. (i call this "intuitive mechanics" - meaning i dont know what the flock i'm doing.) Anyway, everything lights up, but she wont turn over... i eliminated the clutch switch as a problem, but am somewhat lost. I'd like to just press forward with the new harness in , and was wondering if anyone more pro than me could point me in the right direction. i realise that babysitting a guy thru something that he was too stubborn to just follow the instructions on is lame, so feel free to heap on some scorn with any tips you might have:) ... or, if it is absolutely more work to continue at this point than it would be to just take it all out and strip the old and new harnesses and follow instructions, maybe let me in on that. but goddamit, why didnt that work? it seemed like a good idea at the time..

heres the pics pic 2 is looking at the back side of the driver side of the manifold

ok thanks guys. i have another Q now. all the hardware is on, and i have two mystery hoses. 1) is the steel line that runs along the frame rail below the hill holder/ brake resevoir on the driver side. looks like a fuel line. what to do with that? 2) is the vac hose on the manifold, driver side. the small steel line that angles up from the back side of the manifold. does it plumb into the brake booster line? once these two are connected, its just wires left i'll post pics in a half hour, but if anyone gets that description, could you help me out?

hmmm - could this be such a patently stupid question that no one wants to touch it? i hate it when i say that kind of sheeit. i just ask because after reading thru my trusty swap doc., i think it may be less brain hurting for me... i havent yet compared it plug for plug, I guess that would be a good place to start. anyway, the fuel pump's in:)

i now have all the necessary bits from a 91 loyale pb4wd to swap into my gl. I am wondering if i could swap the entire 91 harness into my car, as opposed to peeling it apart.

ok clockwise. thanks.

yeah, but my car wont idle and i have no one to keep their foot on the gas right now.. i was hoping to score a quick answerto simplify my life a bit. I'm convinced that the timing is retarded right now and i want to bump it back a hair. but hey, dont help if ya dont want to:)

sorry for the stupid question but i cannot locate this info in my manual. I am refering to the rotation of the distributor of course. ok, thanks everyone.

yo all. I am so tempted to throw this up in older gen cause ive had so much help there, but i guess i'll repect the site rules. so, we got a 22r swapped into my buds 84 toy truck. i have fuel and spark, but it wont fire, or even pretend to. it goes rr,rr,rr,rr, poof. Poof being what seems to be a white cloud of fuel blowing out the carb. very consistent. four cranks then poof. I am not good at diagnosis, and i really want this truck to run so it'll get the FLOCK out of the way of my garage. so, any suggestions?

ok thanks GD. i guess i'll go ahead and pull it out then, and try it without the pedal. theres only a handful of subes in my JY, so it's going to have to be this one. At least its above freezing today.

i'm shopping for an spfi donor car in the junk yard. the only 4wd i can find is a 90 loyale with pb 4wd. will this harness and ecu cause me headaches? my car is d/r 5spd. I'm not very smart when it comes to electrical/electronic troubleshooting, so i thought i better ask.. I printed off General D's ea82 conversion manual... and it is the sheeeit!

possibly a dumb question but, is it 4wd? my trans on the 87 wouldnt go in till i twisted the output shaft a bit and lined the splines up. then it just popped in. I know nothing about 77's. 5mm isnt much tho, so maybe this doesnt apply...

ok final comments on this thread. tie rod, ball joint and wheel bearings done during this session. I now posess the 3 Sacred Bushings Of The Axle Replacement.. all hail them.. and The Big Washer too.. beside them I lay the Cut Off 30mm Wrench of the Inner Tie Rod.. all hail the special tools not to mention a ball joint popper and a banding tool for cv boots. (im taking that back i think). over all it took too long and was a pain in the rump roast, but my metric setup is refined now, and i learned alot about my car susp. , and steering. the tool selection and general sube knowledge is sinking in. i may try to fab a lift myself now. I'm going to read about it at least. heating the hub is the business when it comes to those wheel bearings. I like tapered ones better tho'. i need a mofo digital camera RIGHT NOW! i had a lot of good pic opportunities . you know, i have to clamp a propane torch in a drum kit stand, and heat the crankcase of my air compressor, so i can get it to generate operating speed without blowing the breaker. that licks balls. ok thanks for the help. Matt. ps. Princess Auto is the shizznit! so what if it breaks, they have a no questions asked return policy. and specialty tools? woohoo!

took out axle, had bearing pressed off the shaft, redid the insert procedure, test drive, and now no heat. so... how long will THAT bearing last?... it got a little more action than i wanted to give it. oh well. i'll do the spfi swap when it goes back in the garage maybe.