Hocrest

Looks good man.

You can either wire in an additional outlet connected to a constant source, or fused directly to the battery. Or you could run a constant wire to the existing lighter in place of the current power lead.

Yeah... Saten speaks the truth But I prefer Manarius's idea. And as someone who has coverted parts of a WRX suspension to our SVX racer, you're going to have a trouble. You will need to use shims where the strut attaches to the spindle and the heights aren't right, it would probably lower your Legacy by about 2 inches. Also I looked it up and as I recall the spring rates for an SVX are lighter than those on a Legacy if they are higher it isn't by much...

How about for dissasembly when I go to do the drivers side? Is the sway bar and tie rod the best way to get it??

I went to put new struts on the 3-Door today. The backs weren't too bad other than some rust. Before I realized that it was welded, I did manage to break the weld on the nut at the bottom mount. The other side was easier... On the fronts, what all needs to be disconected to give room to slide the old strut out of the top of the knuckle. And then back in. I just about managed to do the passenger side by undoing the sway bar mount and the tie rod. But the new strut still isn't seated all the way into the knuckle. The most I could get it with a jack and BFH still left about an inch to drop. I took it for a short drive tonight and it dropped about 1/2 inch, I guess I'll take it for another drive tomorrow and aim for some potholes?? I'm guessing that there is an easier way to do this?? Any tips?

Yeah I agree, I wasn't real clear in that post. If you try and swap from one generation to the next, you'll have a headache. But he has a 95 and a 96, so the only thing he should have to worry about is the final drive.

Looks like a good time, sorry we missed it

OK, took a look. First thing, try to use a straight screw driver into the place where the speed sensor goes. If you turn it CCW I'm guessing that it won't turn at all as you'd be trying to "drive" the car with a screwdriver. When you turn it CW you should get about an 1/8 of a turn and it will float up as the gear "unthreads" itself. If the screwdriver spins freely, then you know where the problem is. Now when I removed the passenger side bearing support, I could see the speed sensor drive gear and the little gear it drive's. But, you would have to remove the bearing to get access. And I don't see that being possible while it is in the case. However IF?????? (hopefully) you also remove the driver side bearing support, you MAY????? be able to move the diff unit away from the pinion gear, and then have access to the small SS "driven" gear. You'll need a good set of 90* snap ring pliars to remove the snap ring holding it on the shaft. And if the SS Drive gear is also stripped, you're going to have to pull the trans to get the diff out of the case. You have the FSM's to reference the procedure for pulling the bearing supports? IIRC (the way I did it tonight??) you need to mark the support and the case and then count how many turns it takes to unthread the support. Then rethread it the same number of turns and match up you're marks. Double check that I'm not missing anything though... Have fun with it. Let us know.

That was in 98, at the same time the brake band adjuster went away and an external spin on filter was added. The only difference you're possibally going to run into if drive ratio. Check the tag on the rear diffs and if neccesary grab the rear diff from the car the new trans is coming from.

Ouch... and I thought I estimated high. I guess I'm spoiled by the local U-Pull yard where I've walked out with a spindle with the rotor/caliper and attached good 1/2 shaft for under $50 Glad it all worked out though.

I have a few "seperate" front diffs in my basement, I'll check it out later and see if theres a way. Maybe get a few photos...

Probably a better way to engage a "Diff Lock" is to determine what signals the TCU to engage a 50/50 split. And then figure a way to cheat that??

Please don't buy a running SVX with the intention of stripping and parting. If that's the route you want to go, at least get one that was totalled with some frame damage.

It doesn't officially attach at all, just sits in there, but all of them that I've had apart, the washer is stuck at the end of the sensor and that sort of holds the stem in place.

I'm no electrical genius, but if this was drawing enough power to fry a 30 amp switch, why doesn't it fry the 18-20g(?) wire that it feeds through?? Anyplase else where the engineers are expecting a high load, they are using a heavier wire??? It seems like something else is going on???

It looks just like this. Here is the VSS with the stem in place; and the stem looks like this; On the Diff, it is exactly the same whether there is a cable attached to drive the VSS in the dash, or there is a electronic VSS attached like yours. All you're missing is the stem, and maybe the seal. The seal is a rubber and metal washer that sits on the end of sensor where the shaft spins through. I don't really want to sell this one, as it's a spare for my fleet of SVX's, but I'll ship it out if you want to try it out, to see if you need to get one. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics, but the battery in the camera was dead...

Yeah, if things came apart, your best bet is probably a new hub assembly from a junkyard. If the car is good otherwise, I see no reason to get rid of it for a $50/2 hour fix.

It's not often that some one can say that Shawn is wrong when it comes to Subaru information, but... Shawn you're wrong :-p Here is a link to the Subaru of Indiana web site. And a link for information on scheduling a tour. Anyone that wants to go to Lafeyette can go on a tour, if you send in your request ahead of time.

Or you're looking at $200 for the engine, trans and any other needed parts at one of the yards out there. $50 in fluids, seals and hoses. And a bit of time in Skip's garage...

With a broken Cam Belt there is a possibility of some bent valves, but that's nothing you can't handle. Pick it up before the junkers start pulling parts off of it...

Is there a tag on the rear diff?

Brian, what size tires are those? They didn't rub at stock height?

But it would be pretty funny.

If you call Subaru and give them your VIN, they should supply you with a free owners manual. Or go here to their website and follow the link to the contact form.

Do you mean the same pitiful 3.545 gearing that lets me cruise 80 mph at under 2700 rpm and continues to push me close to 150mph with little effort??