Hocrest

The 2.2 in my opinion is the most reliable engine Soob has. With the same level of neglect/abuse is has far outlasted all of the EA82's I've had. I am close to 195K and it is still running almost as strong as it did when I bought it with 40K. I beat it daily on the roads (redline shifts into 3rd with the 4eat), change the oil avery 5K and have recently started autocrossing with it.

Yeah, I would say a missing ground could cause the problem.

Do you mean the part that has a vacuum hose in one end and the cable to the throttle out the other? Do you have one of those "vacuum pumps" in your tool box?? Like this; If so, hook it up to the vacuum end of that box and draw a vacuum. It should pull the second throttle cable. If it doesn't, there is your problem. If it does, reconnect that vacuum line and put the pump at the other end of the hose and try again to see if there is a leak in the hose. Which button, the dash button to turn on the cruise control or the steering wheel button that activates it? If it clicks when you hit the steering wheel button, I doubt that it is that switch or the clutch switch.

Looking good :D Are you selling those alloys??? I know someone who has admired them for about a year now:brow: In autocross, what class do you run in? What's your competition?

Autocross in Frackville???? I've been going down to Penn National in Hershey. Ben"ebob" got me involved and that is where he runs. hmmm... I'll probably be looking you up in Reading, good luck if I don't see you.

Thanks for the tip on the Bars. I would have to double check, but I'm pretty sure I can make any changes I want to the front bar, but the rear bar must remain stock size/composition. I don't think I want to get a set of tires just for AX, but I'll probably replace the standard all-season tires I have now with a set of perfomance since I have a separate set of rims/tires for snow. Now where do I get the power???

I recently started autocrossing my Legacy. It is a 97 sedan with the 4eat and about 195K. I started just for fun but, surprisingly I am halfway competive in "H" stock class. :cool: I still have a way to go to improve my skills, I figure I can gain up some time with practice and events under my belt. But I also need some advice to pick up any little bits of power and still remain in stock class. I was thinking "snorkalectomy" but not sure if that is legal?? I'm getting about all the traction I need on my Michelin street tires with 40k off of them. I am really not having any problems breaking loose. Maybe a slight understeer, but mostly I think I need just a little more power to pull out of the turns better. I have been running the auto in 1st gear, only having to pop into 2nd during one or two spots on the track. My plugs/wires have about 75k on them. I guess that replacing them may help. Any suggestions?? Any other tips?

You may remember a couple of weeks ago I posted about the rear diff pulling free of the torsion bar crossmember on my Brat. Well thanks to Ben's help last weekend I got a nice TB Crossmember from Harry's. Sanded the loose rust off and treated it with some anti-rust crap, painted it with rustoleum over the next two nights. I had the day off of work today so I went to do the swap. I had a hell of a time lineing up some things and had to completely remove the left hub, arm and shock to be able to bang out the one bolt, but eventually everything went back together and my diff is now where it is supposed to be :D:D but... When I went to bleed the left brake (I had to disconnect the line when I pulled everything off) the bleeder screw snapped right off Then when I got it off of the jackstands and backed it up a little, I noticed a huge puddle of fluid under the other wheel:(:( I guess when everything was hanging waiting to be reattached, it stretched and ripped the hose:banghead: . So whats next??? I guess I should get a hole new rear hub assembly since it is fairly rusty all over??? Anybody have a couple laying around??? For the hose, I guess I can get them at Napa, Autozone?? Off to check there now... I really wanted to drive her tonight:mad:

Yeah, Mark is a good guy, the other guy doesn't seem as knowledgable with older stuff, but still tries to help.

The second generation models (95-99) had seats that could be folded down. Not sure about the others??

I think most (if not all) had LSD's. Not sure of the other differences but here is a link to a post on the SVX board where they talk alot about the rear diff, and using other Soob diff's in place of the SVX one. http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20171

Just a wacky thought... What about the outside?? When I removed the tint from the SVX I had to use amonia to get it off, so I think it may stand up fairly well to water. Even if it does come off every 6 months, it wouldn't take much film to replace it and you could do it on the comfort of your workbench/kitchen table.

You may want to mention this over at http://www.subaru-svx.net/ also. The people on this board are great, but as I've found out the SVX has problems not commonly found on other Soobs, and the people over there are a little more familiar with the oddities of the SVX.

I have one on all 3 Soob's :D (and an I ordered an extra one last time, so I have one sitting on the shelf for when I get my next one :D:D:D )

I have not quite a half full tank of gas in the Brat. I want to empty it out so I can pull the tank out while I'm having my diff issues. Is there a way to use the pump and filter and just disconnect a hose somewhere and pump it into another container?? Or, should I just siphon it out? I would like to run it through the filter so I can safely use it elsewhere...

http://www.xt6.net/forum/

How about some photos of it installed??

Pretty cool :D Does anyone know how it differs from the US STi?? And, yeah, you got yourself a great name!! I'm just surprised no one beat you to it. Enjoy it And use it wisely

Are the rear torsion bars interchangeable between all EA81's?? I need to get a new one for my Brat, could I also find pull one off of a hatch or wagon if they are in better shape?

Well here are the pics. First is the tab that is broken, at the time of the photo the diff was being held up in position by a cargo strap, but when I first got out to look at it, the nose of the diff and the rear U-joint were just about on the ground The second pic shows how I got it off of the fire roads and driven home.

A bad U-joint or unbalanced propellar shaft can do the same thing, although these problems will usually show their sign over a wider range of speeds. To check the U-Joints, get under the car (NOT RUNNING ) and just grab the shaft near the joint and shake itto feel for looseness. Then turn it, there is about an inch of freeplay allowed by the trans/diff, feel for a "binding". An unbalanced shaft should be fairly obvious when the car is running up on a lift.

Nice Car Is it officially called the Petter Solberg model, or is that your name for it? Welcome to the USMB, and don't worry too much about your english, so far it is better than some of ours. And how in the hell are there 4,736 members and just now somebody chose a board name "Subaru Lover"???? :D

Does the compressor cycle on at all? I'm sure he's done this, but double check the pressure. If it is too low, or too high the compressor clutch won't activate.

Any other thoughts? Or is replacement of the torsion bar the best way to go??

Next week sounds good, I can drive it a little with the strap till then... Luckily I wasn't going that fast, so the driveshaft is still intact. For tomorrow, I am stuck installing some flooring for my sister or I'd head down with you.