fastwgn286

nice dude. how did you not get wax on the textured plastic door strips? masking tape or carefulness?

i dunno, the lines look kinda audi-ish to me (like the new a4 cabrio...) i found this view that looks a little better (at least it has the right tail lights and stuff...)

check scoobymods.com and nasioc.com both are more customizing oriented. i think both discuss legacies (although nasioc...not so much, but they probably have sti seats for sale...) and check out subiesport.com's links. they have just about all of the subaru forums one could want

haha, thats awesome. soon you'll be able to wave to them as well once that sunroof goes in....

yeah, the octane rating are accurate. to make a long story shorter (but still quite long...) oil companies usually trans[port their gasoline products through a pipeline, correct? now, because their are about a hundred separate oil companies (ok, maybe not a hundred, but you'd run out of fingers and toes to count on), it would be kinda dumb to have each one build a separate pipeline. so, one separate company owns the pipeline. now, the pipeline operates by having an oil company pump x number of gallons of product into the pipeline. they get x amount of product at the end. but, this isn't always the exact same gasoline that they put in. its usually refined by another gas company. it works like a bank. you put a dollar into your account. the odds of getting that exact dollar back are slim to none. so, to ensure quality of octane ratings and that whats put in is exceptable to be given to any other company, its just regular gasoline. the additives and other stuff that makes exxon gas different from bp or shell gas is added at the end of the line, after it's pumped out. to ensure that no co-mingled product reaches your neighborhood 7-11, it's all computer controlled to tight tolerances. once a tolerance is violated, the gas that comes out of the end is stored separately to be re-refined or sold to businesses that can use the product in its co-mingled state. this is true for regular, premuim, and diesel fuels. the "mid-grade 89" is co-mingled IIRC, and that can vary from station to station, company to company. while the octane is not state controlled, this means that variations from state to state are nil, meaning that the H6 engines will work on 91-93 octane in virginia, massachusetts, texas, or washington. they are tuned to work on 91 octane at least, because thats as high as it usually goes in california, which is one of the biggest markets in the US. as you stated, turbo owners on the east coast get their ECUs flashed to run on 93 octane, because that is what is sold over here. if you got your ecu reflashed to run the h6 on 87, that wouldn't be too much of a problem because the a/f ratio and how the computer adds the ingredients together would work perfectly. my guess is that engines flashed to run on premium adds more air than the same engine flashed to run on 87 regular. so, over time, you will run a lean mixture. if you ran an engine designed for 87 on premium, you would run rich, which is the proof i heard last year. i honestly don't know the consequences of running lean will be over time, but if i owned it, i would either fill it with premium or reflash the ecu so i won't have problems. i know that the car won't magically adjust to using 87 unless it tests the octane rating before injecting. just my two and 9 tenths cents...

you can cross 10 off the list for now, it looks like your summer is set...

you learn something new every day now, chilin's, write that down and commit it to memory!

besides, spending your money to dyno run on premium won't prove much, if anything. i'm arguing that eventually, you will foul your engine by using regular. giving a dyno test that states more hp wont tell me or anyone else anything new. most engines get more power if a higher octane is used. if you ran your engine for four or five years on regular and recorded the sound heard, then i will be proven wrong (or right ). and we've officially hijacked this thread into oblivion......

never said anything about the fronts, so, i dunno, just a possiblity.... gimme a break with the technical schematics and stuff. its different spacing, and depending on precision, it really won't matter. 05-on stis won't convert rims or rotors to wrxs 02-05 at least. bolt pattern on the 06 still 5x100?

what is up with everyone and conspiracy theories? first an airplane didn't really hit the pentagon, no one can trust a doctor, and now no one can trust an engineer. if you want to risk the engine, go ahead. i've witnessed the proof that extended periods of using the wrong fuel can fowl an engine, but, hey, it's not my car, and i'm only an engineering student....

yeah, but wouldn't leaks in the 2003-on cars be rare because they are still babies? (considering not many people are crazy enough to drive 100-150k in three years to prove if hg leaks are finally cured from those motors) its not to deter anyone, i'm just curious...(and yes, curiosity did kill the cat, but i'm kind of a risk taker )

yeah, it looks great. lights look prefect in that bumper cover. i want your wheels though:slobber: is a jdm grille next?

i wouldn't advise you doing that. a friend did a study on whether to use regular or premium, and cars that are rated at 91 or 93 octane are that way for a reason. their engines are tuned to use that kind of fuel. 87 octane doesn't burn the same way, which will ruin the timing, a/f ratio, and everything else. it won't destroy your car to use reg gas for a while, but after long periods of time, it will come back to bite... same vis versa. cars with 87 oct. rating shouldn't use premium. it will do the same, only i heard the proof - the noise a focus makes while on premium for its entire life - and it aint pleasant. don't doubt engineers. believe it or not, there is a reason it recommends premium fuel.

i've seen both on here. if the lights are: flashing (w/ gauge lights on)= alarm solid (w/o gauge lights on)= switch we need more info, dude...

sorry, forgot about those...

if you bought the brakes off of a 2005 or 2006 sti, they wont work. period. those year of sti used a 5x114.5 bolt pattern, whereas the wrx and all of the other soobs used a 5x100 bolt pattern. rotors would have to be redrilled, new brackets fabricated, and would be pretty expensive. just sell what ya bought and buy a big brake kit from brembo or stop tech or someone designed for your wrx and is a complete bolt on. no need to reinvent the wheel when someone already did it for you.... edit: older generation soobs have a 4x140 bolt pattern. sorry to exclude you guys....

gauge lights turn on at all? if not, you probably hit the parking light switch (commonly refered to as the "idiot switch" here) on the steering column. model and year would be helpful in confirming this...

dont worry about the shifting thing. i do that all the time behind the wheel of my parents minivan (but i get the car back today, so my left foot will finally be happy again!) you should worry about running out of problems though. in fact, make up some problems to fix, buy yet another car to tinker with, or turn your attention to fix-it items in the house for a while... men can never run out of problems without committing suicide or something...

28% sounds pretty sane. its higher than an svt focus (17% IIRC), but the 3.0 has an auto tranny (please correct if i'm wrong...), three diffs, and four tires to turn, whereas most vehicles need to negotiate about half of that stuff. the auto tranny sheds more power than the manual, hence lower gas mileage results compared to manual trannies. as stated earlier, if the xt ob had 250 bhp and 200 awhp, thats about 20% loss, and if it was a manual, then that would make sense...

umm...check the timestamp, this was from 2004....and it's 2006 i believe (unfortunately, i don't own a calendar, so i could be off by a year or so...)

i'm definitely not driving 320 miles with it blown again. thats for sure.... i might get it done this summer, but it depends if i get a company vehicle full time or not (i doubt it, but we'll see)

yeah, i know, but i'm not repairing it, a shop is. and they want to charge 400 to do the other, am i'm like nooooooooo....f' that, i'll do it later. i needed the car by monday, and im getting it back tomorrow, so i'm happy (broke, but happy)

i've seen 2 kayaks on an outback roof before. besides, you can probably find spare cross members on this site for cheap.....

hmm...very interesting results thus far. i got back from the shop and they said my passenger side head gasket had a gash or something similar in it, causing the compression to be lower and therefore allowing them to find it. i'm not too worried about the other being damaged because everything was kosher on that side of the motor and i always turned off the engine when it was getting hot (not at hot) (and i'll just find some time to replace the other in the near future if that is the case) wish i could replace both, but i'm constrained on time, so one will have to do..... just wondering if one side was causing the problem or not

i just got a call yesterday from the shop working on my car that the right head gasket is probably the one thats blown, which got me thinking.... did anyone else have just one of their head gaskets go? if so, which side was it? (if you replaced both at the same time, which one was in worse condition?)