SevenSisters

You guys probably already know that at least some manufacturers computers store information like speed, throttle position, braking effort, etc which can be used in the event of a crash.

It didn't even occur to me you were thinking 50K total mile lifespan for a Subaru. That guy is working at Monro because he's not skilled enough to be a real technician.

Consumer Reports (Nov. 2003) liked the Dunlop SP Sport in their Performance All Season evaluation. Considering it's about half the cost of the Michelin MXV4 Plus and rated better, it looks like a good choice. If you want Ultra High Performance, they rated the Goodyear Eagle F1 highest. Goodyear is introducing a new Triple Tread that's supposed to be real good too. I'm riding on Regatta II's. Not the best tire for Cali, but a good summer and winter traction for us Northern snow folks. Don't forget to buy an extra wheel and 5 tires so you can set up a five tire rotation pattern.

’91’s didn’t have no stinkin’ plastic cover. You probably don’t need it.

50K for the brakes sounds reasonable to me. You didn't say how many months of salt spray exposure they were subjected to in PA. I've never been able to keep brakes (rotors and hardware) from rusting to hell in Ohio. I'll agree that Subaru reliability has plummeted and there are a lot of good AWD contenders that weren’t available when I got the 'ru, but 50K on a set of brakes wouldn't dissuade me. Head gaskets and wheel bearings, now that’s another story.

Maybe I'm out of touch, but who does?

Most filters I've used say to tighten 3/4 turn after contacting the gasket. I put a big rubber band over them and tighten by hand to the percribed amount but I sure need help getting them off. Maybe there too tight, but I've never had one fall off.

You are not plus sizing in the true sense. Plus sizing gives you a larger wheel diameter and retains the original tire od. Theoreticaly, you will increase your overall diamerter about .8 inches going from the 70 to 75 aspect ratio in the same line of tires. Some economy (private brand) tires are actually smaller than the name brand ones. I don't know if this is enough to confuse the ABS algorithim but it will change the final drive ratio a little bit and give you less power but more economy. It will be even worse if you go the wider/taller route.

Loosening the axle nut with an impact wrench or while the wheels are on the ground is not recommended. If I were replacing the bearings I wouldn't care, but if I were just doing the half shafts, I'd follow Subaru's procedure .

Back in the olden days, I purchased my 'ru based on it's consistently high reliability rating in Consumer's Reports. What the hell has happened? True or False Test: Subaru Baja was found to have below average first year reliability. Among family sedans, Chevy Malibu, Hyundai Sonata, and Nissan Altima rank better than Subaru Legacy. Buick, Hyundai, Jeep, and Chrysler had fewer reported problems than Subaru in 2003. In fact, Subaru was even ranked below average. For 2001’s and 1999’s, Subaru was not rated as consistently reliable. The Chevy Impala and Buick Century fared better in the reliability category than the Subaru Legacy Outback. You can find the answers in the April Consumer’s Reports.

Call a dealer or check the NHTSA web site.

Did it set a code? Idle Air Conrtol Circuit

Here's an unworkabke option... but you could hook up 5 in parallel. 20-amp Noise Filter $21.99 Brand: RadioShack Catalog #: 270-055 I'd guess any mobile radio store could help you with a larger one that filters out alternator noise. CRANK IT UP.

I've ordered from 1stsubaruparts.com without a problem.

I haven't had to do this replacement yet, so I'm not exactly sure what you are encountering, but you're not getting a lot of other responses from the board so I'll try. I assume that you removed the axle from the hub and then the housing from the vehicle and are usind a press or that you removed the axle and are doing this on the car with a Hub Tamer or other tool made to do this. I can say this: Apply pressure only to the outer race when installing the bearing. You need to apply pressure only to the inner race when you are installing the hub. If you have the tools, you can do it. When I did my rears, the bearing went into the housing against the snap ring and then the hub went in a specified amount. Any difference in the depth the hub is installed will affect how much of the axle sticks out. If I'm reading correctly, I think that was part of your question. This distance will affect the distance of your tone ring to the ABS wheel sensor too. Try a search on bearings and also read the Subaru End Wrench information on replacing the rears. You'll find the link when you search. Like I said, I haven't done this, but the procedures may be similiar.

If you were coasting into a parking spot and the brakes failed or didn't properly stop the car, I don't see how it would "lurch forward ". It would just continue to coast. Are you sure you didn't inadverently hit the accereator along with the brake? It wouldn't be the first time someone accidently did that.

Take it to a mechanic to find out what the CEL is for and to check the front end so you'll know what you may need to put into it.

Low octane could certianly cause a knock, particulary under load. Try to reset the MIL and see if the recommended fuel gives the same results before you change anything.

I've replaced the rear stabilzer bushings twice. Also check the struts all the way around.

The biggest problems I've encountered have been rear wheel bearings and front half shafts. Was the timing belt changed at 120K?

If I read this correctly, you went through a set of pads in less than three months or 4,500 miles. No, I would not call this normal. Do you have a teenager that just turned 16? If not, something’s got to be dragging or the dealer forgot he just changed them a few months ago. Did you look at the pads? Check the rotor finish also. You may want to drive a while without using or needing to apply the brakes and check the wheel and hub for high heat. If they are hot, it may indicate that the brakes are constantly at least partialy applied.

The H6 SVX required 91 octane. Sorry but I don't recall any 4's needing the extra juice but I'm not positive about this.

Does changing the offset significantly change the load on the bearings?

Get the code(s), ask the USMB what it (they) mean(s), buy the part, put in the part.