The Beast I Drive

Fenders from any Gen 1 from late 77-79 and any Brat from 77-81 will fit. There are 2 stages of gen 1's, but they changed over in 77 to the Stage 2 like the Brat. No panels from the Stage 1's will fit on a Brat without modification. -Bill

I think it would be benificial for what you are trying to do with it if you wire a potentiometer into the circuit for the high idle, that way it really would be just like a throttle lock, and you woud have infinite RPM adjustment within your 700-3000+ rpm range. Just a though, cool idea, stealing control from the computer is awesome -Bill

When you use the correct drill bit and press to install the studs, they seat properly. There is no reason to weld them in if its done right. -Bill

If you could replace those hideous bumpers with something a lot lighter and sleeker looking, that would be a pretty sweet looking rig when you get it fixed up. Personally I think the Mad Max V-8 Interceptor paint scheme would look great on it! Just no need to add the roof spoilers they had in the movie... -Bill

Is she willing to sell it????? I love that thing! -Bill

Shipping will be $20 to anywhere in the U.S. -Bill

For those of you looking to run 6 lug wheels on your Subaru, and you don't want to drill the rims, here is a solution for you. For $60 plus shipping and cores, I will drill, machine, and install new studs in your front hubs and rear drums (or rear hubs if you have rear discs). They are drilled in a drillpress and machined on a mill for the proper clearances for the new studs. If you are interested, just pm me and send me $60 plus shipping via paypal or postal money order, and make sure you give me your name and address. When I get the money, I will send out a set of hubs, when you get them, send me your old ones in the same box. Make sure you let me know if you have rear discs or drums, and if it's a gen 1,2, or 3. Thanks! -Bill Edit: EFFECTIVE APRIL 1, 2010: Due to the price of brand new wheelstuds, the cost for this service will be $75 plus $20 shipping to the lower 48 states with the return of the cores, $135 plus shipping without the cores. Get 'em while they're cheap! -Bill

The only terrain tacks have an advantages on is sand and snow. They suck hardcore on rocks and mud, and they aren't DOT legal, but if you could get a set for a reasonable price, they would be perfect for heavy winter weather and snow wheelin, or a fun day on the dunes. -Bill

I love the stuff you have been doing for your brat man, guaranteed I'll be coming to you for help and custom rubber parts when I need some for my gen 1s -Bill

I don't actually, I don't even have a spare for when mine goes right now... Keep an eye out though, you might have to pick up a whole car, but if the price is right that's sometimes the best way to go. -Bill

Any updates? -Bill

Dave, Gen 1's have the top-mount starter, its not a drop-in swap with an adapter plate..... At the very least you would need to swap in a 4 speed d/r from a 81+ Gen 2, which would require making custom shifters unless you find a 81 Brat D/R. -Bill

the 2 and 4 headlight configurations were available on all the years of the Gen 1's, from 78-81. Typically, the 2 headlights meant it was a DL, and 4 lights meant GL. All Gen 1 Brats have the wiring for the 4 headlight setup though, on the DL's there is just an extra headlight plug dangling behind the grill. -Bill

Im getting a few things buttoned up around here and I'll be back to making lifts soon... -Bill

Any lift is good, but you dont necessarily need a big lift to clear big tires, it just makes things a whole lot easier The big lifts gain you a lot of body clearnce, but drivetrain clearance is only gained by larger tires or a little extra lift on the struts. Personally for mud I would go with a big lift, keep the body out of the mud and that creates less drag, I just threw out the 2" as a suggestion, I dont know what kind of budget you are on... -Bill

I delivered this to its new owner today: I know its in good hands, I will miss it, but it was fun while I had it. Hopefully I'll be wheelin' with it soon! -Bill

I would get a 2" suspension lift, from One Eye if he's close, or I will have some beefy ones available soon. That will give you clearance for bigger tires, and 2" of lift without moving any of the crossmembers. You will need a Dual Range, or you will get stuck A LOT, so keep searching till you find one. Your skid plate idea sounds perfect, so I'd go with it! Since you are running the exhaust up through the engine bay, you might try to find a way to run it around the front of the engine, that way there is that much more clearance under the front crossmember. Take some pics as this progresses! -Bill

I still have the ATV tires, those werent included in the deal. They are ITP Mudlite XT's, 27/12.5/R14 on redrilled Mazda pickup rims. And they are incredible, but I still need to get the innertubes installed so I can really wheel them, they are at 7 psi in the second to last pic. -Bill

Im going to miss this one too, it has been dead reliable from day one. Never ever left me stranded, it always got me home. Had a few issues now and then, but it was always good to me. Ufortunately its the only Subaru I own that actually has any value on the open market But I will hopefully be seeing it again this summer at Walker -Bill

Well, I have made the deal, and my '86 Brat is being transfered to Earl (pooparu)'s ownership on Saturday, Feb. 20th. Im kinda sad to see it go, after all the work I have put in it and all the big plans I had for it, but I know it will be in good hands and get used for what I built it for. The rundown: 86 GL Brat prototype 3" lift (2" at front crossmembers, 3" at struts, I dont recomend this) Stock EA81 and 4 speed D/R with modified shift linkage to accomodate the lift full dual exhaust with X pipe, 18" glasspacks, and 3" exhaust stacks custom heavy duty front and rear bumpers with recovery points 3/16" Diamondplate skidplate Modified and reinforced EA82 lower control arms, EA82 front axles, 18 degree camber-cut lift blocks reversed, stock EA81 struts, knuckles and brakes 130W fog lights 14" Pug steels with 27/8.5/R14 Maxxis Bighorns custom rear clearancing and front crossmember, gaind nearly a foot of clearance over stock I had big plans, full subframe, twin trannies, Nissan T-case, 4 wheel steering, 32" tires, etc. But I have decided I need to prioritize a bit. I only ever got to actually wheel it with the lift and ATV tires once, but it was unstoppable. There are a few things on it that need attention, but overall it is a ready-to-wheel Brat and I hope the new owner will enjoy it! When I first brought it home: Phase I Phase II Broken for a while Phase III Final Stages Here is a video of what the Brat sounds like with my exhaust setup. Never mind the TOD and the shattered windshield http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ckdhes9mROU It was a fun project, now I can focus on the Beast and making other people's rides as fly as mine -Bill

I just got a 79 brat with no ignition key, but the key to my 86 brat worked in it if you have a nice collection of old Nissan ans Subaru keys, chances are one of them will work with a little wiggling and jiggling if nothing else. Also, on some of the gen 3 columns, the lock cylinder is held on with 4 screws, and you can just un bolt it to unlock the column, then unscrew the ignition switch from the back of it and start it with a screwdriver... -Bill

Im accustomed to a small RPM drop (like 20 RPM or something, just enough to change the sound of the engine) when I let the clutch out in neutral when the engine is warming up, so I dont think you have an issue there. As for not shifting into first while rolling, its not supposed to. These trannies have a 1st gear lockout IIRC, so it is near impossible to shift into first uless it is stopped, so dont try it. With these old cars, the synchros usually have seen some abuse, and with the thick gear oil they use, cold morning shifts usually will be not as easy or smooth as after the tranny warms up, just dont force anything too hard and all will be fine. If it starts hard shifting or grinding after the tranny oil is warm, then you might need to replace the synchros or adjust the clutch cable. -Bill

with the right mods, for light off-road, the 1.6 will be fine. If you want to do any real wheelin with it, you will need a D/R and either a side starter bellhousing for a 1.6, or a newer motor with a side mounted starter. You wont be able to run anything bigger than 185/80/R13 tires unless you get some wheel spacers and run 14" or bigger rims. Thats 4" with 185/80 tires -Bill

Gen 1's are totally different to lift than Gen 2's or 3's, so the smallest lift kit I can make for them is a 4". But, I could lift it 2 or 3" with some tricks, but its not as easy as bolting on a 4".... -Bill

If you get serious about having an EJ swap done in your brat, keep me in mind. There is a lot more to it in the 78-80 Brats because the tranny needs to be changed out as well, and that requires more mods than you might think. Im always willing to make a deal -Bill