The Beast I Drive

Ahh yes, I had them backwards, thanks for catching that -Bill

A metal putty knife and a gallon of Methel Ethel keytone -Bill

I wouldn't sweat it, just keep doing what youre doing. I seriously doubt you will harm anything. -Bill

I'd love to make it for this one, but I don't have anything ready yet. Hope y'all have fun -Bill

Looks good man, I dig that design! If it were me I would add a hoop for lights too, but that's just me, and either way it will look sweet and keep that winch safe -Bill

The steering geometry changes when you move the wheels forward, it creates negative caster, which improves the steering response in corners and curves going forward, but it makes it less than ideal for backing up. It's a fair trade off to me though, as most of the time I'm moving forward. There are a lot of things to consider when you start messing around with suspension, you always have to take into account the camber, caster, and toe, as well as suspension movement under any conditions. -Bill

I moved the front wheels forward about an inch and a half on the Beast, and it makes a huge difference. Before my 31's would rub under flex or hard turning, but now I dont have those issues at all. It is a bear to turn when backing up though, but power steering helps a lot. -Bill

Here's the jist of the front suspension travel. It doesnt have much flex, even in stock form, due to the way it pivots. If you look at it, you see how the radius rod is attached with a pair of rubber bushings, but its not in-line with the lower control arm pivot point. This setup limits the travel because it binds up very easily. The stock struts arent exactly long travel, I dont have the specs but they arent the limiting factor in the stock setup. With the 2" suspension lift, you already have the control arm and radius rod almost maxed out in their range of flex to the point they cant flex anymore. With stock EA81 front axles you do not want long travel anyways. I am amazed yours are till holding together, I blew mine with a 2" lift in 2 weeks, with no offroading. The axles on these are short and hyper extend easily, and of course the CV's only let you flex so far without exploding. If you want more travel, the easiest way is use the EA82 stuff that Jessie has on his wagon, or change the way the radius rod mounts to the car, so that the pivot point for the radius rod is in-line with the lower control arm pivot point. This will allow the control arm to flex with no binding to the full extent of the strut's flex. -Bill

What? -Bill

I dont know what it is about the Chevys but it seems to me they always have rust in the front fenders and at the tops of all the wheel arches, I have a 73 Cheyenne with a super straight body (and a blown motor) but some knarly rust in all those places. The Fords from the 70's just dont seem to rust, not around here anyway, this one has not a spot of rust I do need to troubleshoot one problem though, the coolant is spraying out of the radiator cap as the truck warms up. Im gonna replace the cap today, hopefully my uncle didnt let it sit with water in it and crack something...... I guess that could explain why it would run like crap though -Bill

Dude, that thing is awesome! Man I cant wait to see it finished and doing some hardcore trails! -Bill

Nice man, youre making Butters jealous though..... At least he saw some mud the other day -Bill

I cant for the life of me remember where I saw it, but somewhere I saw instructions for all the pieces that needed to be reinforced on the RX to be a Subaru sponsored rally car, and pics of the reinforcement peices and where they get welded to the car. It was interesting, it was like a complete how-to to build a factory RX rally car, shame I cant remember where it was..... -Bill

No. -Bill

Hey guys, Im just thinking out loud here, and I had this idea. Now I dont plan on running a turbo on anything for a long time, just too much stuff I dont want to deal with for a powerband that isnt where I want it for what I do. But, this was something I had in mind, and if someone thinks it could be a good idea then maybe they can use it. I read a long time ago (2004ish) when the SVT Lightning concept car came out on the new F-150 body that they had a system that used the air conditioning to cool the air charge for a 15 second period and gave it a 30hp (or something like that) boost in doing so. I never quite understood what they were doing, but it sounds good. What I am thinking, is why couldnt you build a box that houses the air conditioning evaporator, and plum that to have the after-Turbo air charge run through it? If it could work, you would have the coldest charge possible, right? so what say ye? would it work, or am I just full of it? -Bill

Hey guys, just wanted to share my newest prize! This thing was my uncle's truck since he bought it brand new in 1974, I was shocked when he handed me the original title and its in great shape! It's a 1974 Ford F-100 XLT 4x4, it has less than 100,000 miles on it, 390 FE engine, C6 auto trans, Edelbrock carb and intake (motor was rebuilt at 13,000 miles, its not the original engine), factory air conditioning, 33-12.5-R15 tires (need to be replaced ASAP). The body is straight as can be, with maybe 2 or 3 minor dents. The tailgate doesnt work right, but I had a brand new OEM replacement in storage from my second F-series truck. Came with the Delta toolbox and a roll bar with lights. I drove it home for $800! This one is a keeper, I was sad to trade off my F-250 for my Toyota, and I had always wanted this one as long as I could remember. It needs some work, its been somewhat neglected for a few years. It runs like crap, needs tierod ends and tires, and the modulator on the tranny needs replaced. First thing Im gonna do is take off that stupid bug shield and give it a tune up, plugs, wires, points, cap, rotor, fuel and air filters, some carb cleaner and adjustment, and maybe convert the carb to auto choke. Then I want to install the roll bar, replace the tailgate and rear bumper, and remove all the old wiring and mounts for the camper he had. I might even wash it Somewhere along the line it will get a tranny fluid flush and filter change, and a new modulator. There are other little details, but those are the biggest things it needs. Im pretty much done buying American cars for a while, i have my 69 Lincoln, my 62 Chevy hot rod pickup, and this now, that are all running/driveable, so Im all set -Bill

http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=107860 Only cuz Im feeling nice -Bill

Because they were only available in RX's and *some* other Turbo models. And most people arent looking to get rid of them. BUT, search the classifieds, I just did, and guess what I saw for sale.... -Bill

did it this way on a junker Outback, cut out the upper and lower supports with a sawzall -Bill

Those are a great deal, but Im partial to the 20 litre NATO metal fuel cans that Ive been getting for 20 bucks from the local surplus store -Bill

If it's a York compressor, you should be able to follow the York procedure for removing the clutch. As for the ej compressor, I have no idea... -Bill

its called a U-Pull-It for a reason: If you want it, You get to pull it. An engine from a u pull it yard can be a gamble, but if the price is right you really cant go wrong... -Bill

Of course, it has to be hideous or no one would want it -Bill