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The Beast I Drive

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Everything posted by The Beast I Drive

  1. its easier to pull the motor, then pull the tranny through the engine bay. I do this on a regular basis. -Bill
  2. Or build like some kind of symbolic trophy that is actually worth nothing but makes everyone feel good about having it then pass it on to the winner of the next challenge -Bill
  3. What does the panel have in mind for a prize? I was thinkin like a tank of gas and a steak dinner..... Loser buys for the winner What say ye? -Bill
  4. you CAN NOT bolt EA82 heads to a 1600. I have had EA82's, EA81's, EA71's and EA63 (1400) apart, and I have looked closely at all these parts. Heres pretty much the jist of what you can and can't do. you CAN bolt EA63 dual exhaust port heads to the EA71, with minor modification to the water jackets. This will increase the compression substantially as well as they are a better flowing head design, with a good P&P. you CAN NOT bolt EA81 or EA82 heads to the EA71 block. The bores are spaced farther apart on these engines and nothing lines up even close. Not to mention EA82 are OHC and EA81 and older are all OHV. There is no timing chain, its direct gear-on-gear crom the cam to the crank. You can get a reground cam from Delta Camshaft for under $70 shipped, with a torque grind, hp grind, or have them grind it to custom specs. Best bang for the buck. You can pony up the enormous cash for EA71 aviation parts, but that stuff is not only insanely expensive, but also getting rare. EA81 and EJ22 are the "in" thing in Experimental Aviation motors, as far as Subaru power, and NOTHING made for those engines will swap to an EA71 (except EA81 distributor, with a minor mod) If you want to stick with the EA71 your best and cheapest bet it order a new cam from Delta, have the heads shaved a couple thousandths to boost compression, have Jerry De Moss portmatch the heads and intake and polish them, as well as have him port and polish the venturis on your Weber. Convert to electronic ignition if you have points, and open the exhaust primaries to 1 3/4" diameter, and run them to an X pipe about under the front diff, then run duals from there. Have the flywheel lightened, turn up the advance a little, and you should be looking at around 90-100 HP (complete guesstimate) at the crank. If you want to build an EA81, you can have a cam ground from Delta, and install either 1600 pistons or EA82 non-turbo pistons in the block. The EA71 pistons should give you 9.5:1 compression, the EA82 pistons should get 9:1. Have the heads and intake P&P and the carb to match, lightened flywheel, etc. 1 7/8" primaries and an x pipe and you should be good for about 100-110 HP (also complete guesstimate), more if you have the heads shaved some to boost the compression more. If you find a pair of 1400 heads with the dual exhaust ports (one on the front of each head, one on the back) get the water jackets machined to fit and use those on the EA71 block to oget even higher compression and better flow. -Bill
  5. It's a headgasket. You know it is. Just admit it. Lol But seriously, it's prolly the headgasket or a cracked head or block -Bill
  6. Nissan 240 SX rear calipers and Legacy E brake cables -Bill
  7. I dont know the exact wieght of my tire+rim combo, (31-10.5 on 15" steel rims) but it was heavy enough to shatter my rear window trying to get it on the roof of my lifted wagon once Now I get to it from the back door, or I stand on the rear tire to access it, and I toss it up from the side, not the back. Of course now that my window is plexiglass, it wont matter. For the sake of the original question, the 27's on 14" steel pugs are a LOT lighter than my 31's -Bill Oh and Jeff, Butters has a factory roof rack..... You can carry over the extra rails from the wheeler wagon
  8. a stock EA82 non-power steering steering link works for a 6" lift with power steering as well..... -Bill
  9. the U joints are staked-in on the EA series cars, the can be replaced but they werent ever meant to be. -Bill
  10. I call bs. Did it have A lot of shifter slop? If so you prolly actaually put it in 3rd. No brats ever came with a 5 speed anything, not factory. Look under the hood next time, if it has the starter on top it is a 4 speed. -Bill
  11. I have not gotten the right bolts yet, Im going to have them made ASAP though as it appears no one stocks them anymore. Hopefully i will have them before the 23rd. Get ahold of Brian too, he wants to meet up with you when you are here as he has some stuff to bring me as well -Bill
  12. Beautiful ride man, with an end result that nice you should be able to fetch 6k plus for it, it looks great! Oh and your lift is here waiting, pm me when you think you might come up to get it -Bill
  13. At the moment I don't have any on the shelf, and I have a few orders I have to fill first, but I can let you know when I have one for you. Shipping to UK I don't know about, last time I shipped a kit international I had a hell of a time, and it was expensive, and it was only to Canada... But I will see what I can do -Bill
  14. I had a Ford 2 barrel from a 351M on my EA82 for a while, the carb manifold sucks for making an adapter for anything other than a Weber. I would find a SPFI manifold because it will be way easier to make an adapter for. Everyone else is gonna say make it SPFI again, or get a Weber, but Im down with the obscure oddball carb stuff I believe there are still 2 types of disty for the EA82, Hitachi and Nippendenso, and you will have to do some re-wiring to make a SPFI car run right with a Carb. It might actually be easier to just put the SPFI back together in this case, unless you have a carbed donor car to pull all the electrical parts from. -Bill
  15. I got nothing for EJ's yet, but soon I will be working on 4 and 6" kits for Legacy/Outback, and I imagine they wont be too hard to modify to fit Foresters/Imprezas..... -Bill
  16. Also what would help hide a Weber, along with a modded stock airbox, would be to find a cold weather package, they had a block heater and a plastic shield that covers the front of the carb completely -Bill
  17. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49241 that thread covers pretty much everything -Bill
  18. I have no idea if Gen 1 Brat window tracks will fit, but they are pretty common, and the doors are the same length as the Coupe doors. Also interesting, the Gen 1 Brat units appear to be the same as the Gen 2 Wagon/Sedan front door units..... Might look into it -Bill
  19. I am so jealous! I love Amigos, Ive wanted one for a long time but they just arent for sale around here. That has a Dana 44 rear axle right? That should be a fun rig, with some meaty mud tires that thing should go places! Nice score! -Bill
  20. Man I would love to make it to this, but I just dont think its gonna happen for me. Sounds like a good time though! -Bill
  21. Well, Im done with Fastenal. Bolts came in yesterday like they said, but they were not even close to what I ordered. Im extremely sorry that this has taken so long, but Im going to ship the kits next week with or without the metric bolts. What I will do is send the kits with the Grade 8 USS bolts, and when I get my Metric bolts from a different supplier I will send them in a separate package, no extra charge, I'll ship them at my expense. Im really terribly sorry about this, I was hoping to have these shipped a long time ago, but I cant control the vendors I have to deal with -Bill
  22. Alright, bolts I am told will be here today, so these well get shipped out next monday, as today is my 21st birthday and I have a lot of stuff to do Thanks for being patient ya'll! -Bill
  23. That would be the EA82 with SPFI, basically a crappy engine that you dont want anywhere near your Brat. But the tranny is a 5 speed D/R and would be very nice to have in the Brat. If you can get it cheap the only thing you will really want from it is the tranny, clutch, PP, flywheel, crossmember (to modify and adapt to the Gen 1 tranny crossmember) and shift linkage and maybe the rear diff just to have a spare. Oh you will want the spedometer cable and clutch cable as well, and the starter. Everything else on the car can stay on the car and get sold for parts and such. Looks like a decent car from the pics -Bill
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