The Beast I Drive

Prolly they were some kind of JDM speed parts company's product, and they prolly stopped making them back in the early 90's (like everything else that was cool) so good luck finding those, they would be sweet to have! -Bill

For the record All EA82 models with factory AC had the fan on the water pump as well as an electric fan from the factory. The secondary fan would come on at a certain temp or if the AC was on. all the EA82 motors Ive ever seen (including non-AC) had the waterpump fan, but the non-AC units did not have the electric fan. No EA81s that I know of had a mechanical fan of any kind. Nor did the EA71s AFAIK. EA81s that came with factory AC were equiped with dual electric fans, the secondary would come on when the AC was engaged only. This is about as much as I know about the subject, other than if you had dealer installed AC there could be some differences, each dealer had the discretion to do their own thing as long as it worked right. My '80 Brat had dealer AC and only 1 fan :-\ -Bill

Everything I built for this lift is lifted the same amount, so its 6" on the struts, 6" on all the crossmembers, 6" at the diff, etc... It will settle, it just doesnt have any weight on it yet... -Bill

You are in luck, I have the flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch from that 1400 trans I dont think Ill be needing it, Im hooking my motor to an RX trans -Bill

The camber will be about stock when he gets the motor in it and rolls it out, my strut blocks are camber corrected -Bill

Does the 1100 bellhousing bolt up to the 1400 tranny I sold you? Im just curious... -Bill

Looks good man, now just need some meaty tires on it! Glad you like the lift, another satisfied customer -Bill

Actually I used the new disty I built for the Beast, so I have to make a new one for it before I can get it to move on its own power... The coil is brand spankin new though, as are the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I think Im gonna have to install some relays, Ive noticed that on all the Gen 1 Brats I have here, the lower plug on the back of the fuse panel is always melted to some extent. I replaced the plug on this one with a less-melted one, but I think something more permanent needs to be done... -Bill

My assumption would be to make up for cylinder wear, there isnt enough meat in the block to bore them out to a diameter that would gain you condsiderable cubes, or power for that matter... -Bill

I dont know, but I have 2 motors with those pistons, ones a post 80 and ones a pre 80, and Id be willing to bet I have a couple other motors that have those pistons, and I have 2 more of those pistons but oversized still new in the box... They are all EA71s, Ive seen both the flat smooth ones and the ones with the raised center and dimples... On a side note, my 1400 has flat-tops as well... -Bill

I dont really know what would be best piston wise, maybe RAM engines can help a little with that info, they seem to be the leaders in hi-po small cube Boxers for the eviation comunity... At a premium price :-\ -Bill

Well I didnt get around to workin on the roll bar, but I did accomplish a few other things Got a handle installed and working on the tailgate Got a sliding rear window installed Threw in a spare tire after I tuned it and adjusted the clutch Replaced the stock battery cables with ones i made out of ultra heavy-duty 220V welder ground cables Pulled most of the carpet out of the bed, exposing the rust :-\ and hosed it out. This is the bung i plugged, I had a hose on it before for the HVAC, but I had it hooked up to the fuel return line instead and i was too lazy to hook it up right. My heater core is bad anyway, waiting for the replacement to come, and its summer, so HVAC operation is not important to me right now Unfortunately, I discovered the reason I was smelling burning brakes every time I stopped is because my passenger front calliper is seized and it will not let loose at all. Ill have to see if I can get some new calipers in the morning, as well as new rotors. Once I have the brakes fixed, then I can start using it as a daily driver. -Bill

Ok, finally got my laptop fixed and uploaded pics a couple days ago, so here is some more in-depth pics and details. All the pics can be found here http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p241/87monster/ Here's a 1600 head on the left with a 1400 dual port head on the right This is the 1400 dual port head mounted on a Post-'80 1600 block. Note how small the head is compared to the mounting surface This is the 1600 headgasket on top of the 1400 headgasket. You can see how much smaller the bores of the 1400 are compared to the 1600. You can also see the coolant passages arent quite lining up Here's the 1600 headgasket on the 1400 Dual Port head. Again, you can see the difference in the coolant ports. Here's my EA71 Dual Carb manifold with stock carbs. Im going to go to single barrel Webers when I get it built, brand new they are less than 150 each and I might be able to get a wicked discount if I play my cards right Here is the stock 1400 manifold, I polished this up a bit and put it on my Brat with a Weber 32/36. This is before I did that The bar code from the Fat Case bellhousing The fat case bellhousing itself the 1400 headgasket on a 1600 head I have a full set of these, but I guess they arent JDM, all the motors I have heads off of have these pistons in them... And here's the 1400 manifold polished up a bit and installed in my Brat with the Weber -Bill

you will have to have some custom machine work done to use a 1400 flywheel on a 1600 crank, the 1400 has symetrical bolt holes, while the 1600 has the only-fits-1-way bolt pattern like the EA81s and EA82s. I do wonder if the 1400 crank would fit in the 1600... Oh I also finally got all my pics uploaded as well. Heres a link to all of them, Ill post a few here with some details. http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p241/87monster/ -Bill

Im an idiot. After 3 or more hours of ******* around with the carb, timing, replacing the entire ignition system, and doing all kinds of various tests, I determined that the problem was.... A vacuum line hooked up wrong. I had the HVAC line hooked up to the fuel return line I disconnected that, plugged the port, re-tuned it and it runs perfect now, smooth as glass. im just PO'd that it took me 3 hours to realize such a simple mistake But at least I figured it out, and my ignition system is practically all new now now to mod the roll bar... -Bill

That is beautiful! You wouldnt happen to still have the cop pushbars do you? Id be interested in those... -Bill

Well I played around with it a bit so far today, it is definitely missing on cylinders 3 and 1. I can unplug either spark plug wire while its running and it makes no difference. the plugs are new, there is spark to the plugs, the plug wires are new, the cap and rotor is new. Im thinking its time to swap out the stock ignition and put the disty from the Beast and a new coil in, but there is a lot of different stuff in the Brat that isnt there in the Beast or my other Brat, like a transistor box or something. Im not real sure what I can remove...:-\ I did a compression check on 3 and 1, 3 showed 110 psi while cranking the starter, and 1 showed 105 psi cranking the starter. Is this low? I did the check with the engine warm... It seems like they should be in the 130-140 psi range, but I forget... -Bill

Well, i plan to keep all the Brats and the Gen 1 wagons, but the 86 Hatch Im stuck in a rut with, I started a project with it, 6" lift, stripped interior, re-wiring it, body mods, etc. Its not that I want to sell it, there isnt much there to sell so I prolly wouldnt get my money's worth out of it. I plan on making it a mud rig, but I have so many projects I get too easily distracted. Its not that I lose interest, its just I have to many interests and conflicting Ideas... As for Rusty, I got the mufflers welded up yesterday, and I got the high beams to work, but my dash lights still dont work, and there is a very weak current to the lighter jack. So today I plan on fixing the electrical issues, then maybe get to work modding the High roll bar I have so I can get the stacks installed I also have to figure out why it likes to randomly cut out 2 cylinders after it has been driven for a while and gets warmed up :-\ its fine under throttle, but if youre just cruisin, it will start to miss on 2 cylinders, but if you give it more gas its fine. its just anoying at this point, Im thinkin it might be the disty, but Im sure it could be the carb too. Its jetted for a 1.8, I have the idle mixture screw turned out 1 turn IIRC, might be 1 1/2 turns... Also I smell gas really bad if I take a hard right turn... -Bill

swap a Weber on it, re-time it and you'll be good to go. I found a Weber on an old soob at a junkyard the other day, got it for 15 bucks -Bill

haha, I have to re-count them all, but off the top of my head: -3 1980 Brats -1 1978 Brat -1 1985 Brat -1 1986 Hatch -1 1983 Hatch -1 1980 GL5 wagon parts car -1 1973 Tailgate wagon -1 1976 4WD wagon -2 1986 turbo wagon parts cars -3 1987 GL wagons (one for parts) -1 1989 DL wagon (soon to be sold) -1 1996 Outback parts car -1 1985 DL wagon - Robbie's old offroader, now a parts car - the burnt remains of my 1988 RX I think thats all of them, for now, looks like I might be gettin a 84 wagon soon, and Im trying to save up for a bad rump roast built lifted mudracer '78 Brat -Bill

Did a little more work on it tonight, nothing worth pictures though. Took the roll bar off one of my pther Brats and set it in the bed, Ill have to make some spacers to get it to set just right. Then Ill weld the joints, make new mounting tabs for 4 lights instead of 2, paint it white, and install it. I also will be running stacks on this brat too, I want to be able to drive it out on my buddie's ranch in the summer, and I do not want to start a fire. Ill go with black 3" tubing for those. I got about 1/3 of the exhaust done, this weekend I hope to mount the mufflers and the roll bar, and the stacks too if i can get ahold of some 3" tubing Overall I think it will be a good companion to my other Brat And The Road Warrior is one of the greatest movies ever, period. -Bill

Just figured I would share my latest acquisition This is Rusty, the Brat that Twitch was selling, as seen in this thread http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95448 This is what i started with (Twitch's pics, not mine) It had a few issues... The rear bumper was destroyed, and it took much of the rear unibody framerails' structural integrity with it. The same incident which caused the bumper damage also apparently killed the clutch, the rivets had dug into the pressure plate about 1/8" . It is rusty, hence the name. I have done some work to it so far though, I started by removing the canopy and replacing the rear bumper with something I whipped up to match the front Then I fixed the hood hinges, the mounts were ripping out of the body, but a little WD-40, liquid wrench, and some welding and all is well. I also replaced the split sunroof with a single piece unit from an S-10, cuz the slit roof was missing one of the glass pieces. It didnt come put pretty though :-\ but thats ok with me this time. I then pulled the engine to replace the clutch. While the engine was out, I polished up a 1400 intake manifold and mounted a Weber carb. Then I reinstalled it As you can see, the 1400 makes the engine bay much cleaner. This is a Factory A/C equiped car, and I saved most of the AC stuff, I just don't need it on this rig. I still have to do the exhaust work though, Im running 2 1/2 foot long headers right now, so i need to make an X-pipe and pull the glasspacks from my burnt RX. I also replaced the tail lights and a side marker light. The interior is black with faux woodgrain, which I dig! the seats need re-upholstered, but I don't care. Amazingly, the stock AM radio works! The dash is cracked, but who has a Brat with a good dash anyway? There is a good bit of rust. The car came from Colorado, and I have deduced from the condition of the mechanicals that is only has 127,xxx miles on it But the rust is killing it. There is rot in the rear of the floorpans, the rear unibody framerails are toast, the rear inner fenders are rotted, the rockers arent pretty, the rear fender arches are being eaten, and the front fenders are only held together by the bondo someone laid over the rust While all the rust on this car is curable with a lot of work, my long term plan is to part this one out for one of my less-rusty shells. But for now, Im gonna spruce it up a bit and drive the crap outa it. As of today, this is what it looks like On the to-do list still: -Build the new exhaust -Oil change, tune-up, trans/diff fluid changes -clean and paint front winch bumper, acquire winch for it -install my high roll bar after I paint it to match the bumpers -Paint the rims back to stock silver -add tow hooks to the front bumper like I did the rear -make my mounting points for the Brat snowplow I recently acquired -fix the random electrical issues. The fuse panel has to go, Ill put a newer blade-style panel in its place. the dash lights dont work, the high beams dont work, and there is a wierd short in the column/dash area, its intermittent. -clean it up a little -new wiper blades -Drive the crap outa it! Eventually I might use it to break in the hot rod 1600/1400 hybrid motor Im building. It already has a lot more spunk than stock, what with the Weber and opened up exhaust Anyway, just thought I would share -Bill

I might just bring out the Beast for this one, all i need to do to it is swap the JDM motor in, fix the exhaust and replace the rear wheel bearings... And all the axles. Might swap in my LSD from my burnt RX too... -Bill

Only problem I see here, is people will mistake that for a Toyota -Bill

I think thats the one I was thinkin of buyin a while back, but I just didnt have the ambition to go get it... Nice score -Bill