The Beast I Drive

Pull the vent grills off and stick the shop vac in there, and also unbolt the fan housing and vacuum out down there too, make sure you cycle through the HVAC controls while you do it. I had a bad vibration in the heater fan in my RX, so I took the housing out, and low and behold there were 2 dead mice stck in the viens of the fan! Once i got those out it ran nice and smooth... -Bill

The way you routed the PCV valve will not do anything, the PCV (positive crankcase ventialtion) valve allows the engine to re-burn oil vapors and other harmfull gasses that build up in the engine block. What you have done by routing the line from the airbox straight to the PCV valve is disabled that system completely. Its supposed to be set up with one hose coming off one head and into the air box, and the other hose from the other head going into the PCV valve on the manifold. If you are getting too much oil in the carb, I would run both hoses from the heads to a T fitting and then run that to the PCV valve. Otherwise you really havent accomplished anything with your new setup :-\ -Bill

Thats some good info there, and I will be double checking the early and later style EA71s I have to make sure for certain that the heads will swap. As for the EA81, the only differences in those were the heads, early EA81s have small valves and solid lifters, later EA81s had bigger valves and solid lifters, and the 85+ EA81s had hydraulic lifters and bigger valves. All EA81 heads are interchangeble though, all the blocks have the same dimmensions. What would be kindof interesting would be to see if Fat case EA71 heads would fit an EA81, and if there would be anything to gain from that...

Not so fast hot rod, GD's case makes at least 2, I have a 87 4wd with 3.9 ratios and a 3at... So maybe your FSM is missing a section or something... Or you need thicker glasses :-p Jk Rob, your's not that old... Yet... -Bill

Pic 1 is kinda like what Im going to do, but I will have longer tubes and an x-pipe to eaven the pressure and produce scavenging -Bill

They are the same width, I measured them. Also, 1400 and post-80 1600 are also the same width. They are all the same width, only one different is the EA81, its 1" wider. BUT, JDM DC 1600 is narrower, but I havent determined if thats because of shaved heads or shaved deck just yet... -Bill

You. Me. Kostamojen. Chat room, ASAP http://www.bydemons.com/chat/ -Bill

EA81 and EA71 heads dont interchange, there is more space between the cylinders on the EA81s, I checked all this out yesterday after I pulled the heads off my 1400, i had some pre-'80 EA71 heads laying around, as well as some EA81 heads to compare, and I plan on using a Post-80 block for the 1400 heads to go on (has about 12,000 on the bottem end) and from the measurements i took, everything should swap to it. I believe the EA63 cam will work with the EA71 block, but that matters not, because custom cams will be ground. The valve configuration in the 1400 heads is the same as the 1600 heads, its the exhasut ports and the combustion chamber size that are different -Bill

I myself am thinking of a long-tube header setup, with 2-into-1 from each head, then an x-pipe and full dual exhaust with glasspacks or flowmasters that exit just before the reare wheels. As for pipe size, I guess that partially depends on how much the exhaust ports get opened up, but if they are 1 1/2" stock thats prolly the best size to start with. Like I stated, i have all the parts I can measure and get dimensions, so if you need something let me know. -Bill

Hmm, well the USDM pistons say 50 on them... Ill take some pics, this is the stuff I got from Loyal 2.7 Turbo a little while back. I just wanna know what I have so I can put together a matching set for my new motor project -Bill

Im really glad were all in the same boat here, you guys are talking about building the motor I am preparing to build right now! I have been looking over the motors and the various parts I have, and what I see is that the 1400 heads appear that they WILL INDEED fit the post 1980 EA71, although a modified head gasket may be needed (think 2.5 with 2.2 heads, same deal) The Post-'80 is 1" narrower than the EA81, and is exactly the same width as the 1400 and the pre-80 EA71. The Post-and-Pre-80 EA71 heads do interchange. I also have a EA71 Dual Carb manifold that is going on my motor Turns out the JDM manifold is about 3/16" narrower than the USDM 1400 and 1600 manifolds :-\ so there will be some machining to make it fit I also have a pair of JDM flat top pistons marked 25 on the surface, not sure what this means. I posted some random questions in the historic section, I really think we should all work together and build a set of KILLER EA71/63 Hybrids, Im shootin for 120HP if its at all possible. I have a lot of parts to compare and take measurements, if you guys need something let me know. Oh Kosta, Im uber jealous of that Weber manifold :slobber: -Bill

Yeah check the fluid, if there is something wrong inside the diff it should tell the story. -Bill

Are the rear axles in good shape, no torn boots? the rear DOJs on the Beast are shot, but it only makes noise if Im in 4wd going backwards, and I just get a clicking like a bad CV. Mabye your rear diff bearings inside the unit are bad, I know the ones in my Brat are, I can wiggle the stub shafts like a shifter stick Maybe pull the drain plug (lower one on the back cover, 13mm square head) and see what the rear diff fluid looks like, it very well may have never been changed, a lot of people forget that gear oil breaks down too. -Bill

When you get a new radiator, get one of those all-metal, dual core Turbo ones, I got one for my mom's car and the Beast, I think they were about 150 bucks a piece, but they were worth it. Since you used the SPFI manifold you do have the correct temp sensor for your guage, but you should check with a good infared temp gun or top notch temp guage to be sure its right, it is 20 years old after all -Bill

Hey ya'll, I have a pair of what appear to be JDM flat top EA71 pistons new in the box that I got from Honduras, they are stamped with a 25 on the piston top, and the box says .25 on it. They are factory Subaru parts, Im assuming the numbers mean they are .25 mm oversize? If anyone can confirm or deny this that would be a great help. I also have USDM pistons new in box that have 50 stamped on them. If anyone has another pair of flat tops with 25 stamped on them for EA71, let me know, we can work out a deal. Also, I have a full set of standard size EA71 piston rings, will these work on the pistons if they are .25 mm oversize? Thanks! -Bill

well, you dont have to worry about smaog anyway, your car is a 1973, pre-smog man! I think I did see that Datsun you did, and damn that was some fine work! Well with that, I know you are the right guy to turn this rig into a show stopper! Also, the EJ motors are too wide to fit in the Gen 1 engine bays without notching the framerails, which has been done by a few people who swapped EJ22s into Gen 1 Brats here on the board, so if you search Im sure you will find info on that as well. I really cant wait to see what direction you take this project, its gonna be killer! -Bill

I would have to check the properties of WD-40, but if it is conductive, then I would assume he fried the ignition modual in the disty. Or something to that effect. WD-40 does displace water, but you should always check on stuff like that before you use it on electronics and make sure it is NON-CONDUCTIVE, otherwise it could be worse than water my .02 -Bill

One ne on the fenders, while pre-77 Gen 1 fenders will probably physically bolt onto the car, the bodylines are different. I believe it was 77 or 78 that the body really changed, where the lines on the side of the car got mellowed out and became more curvey, and the front turn signals were moved to the fender corners. I have a 72 Tailgate wagon and a 76 4wd wagon, as well as a collection of 78-81 Brats with which I make my comparisons and reach my conclusions. So far what i have seen, I could easily swap my 72 DL grill onto my 76, as well as the fenders, doors, and most of the interior, it all bolts into the same places for the most part. None of the body/trim pieces will swap onto my Brats, or a stage 2 wagon for that matter, well they may swap but they wont match the body lines, even the door handles are different! The interiors might swap, but dont quote me on that. Drivetrain components are completely interchangeable though, the basic platform did not really change until 1980 when the 2nd gen chassis came out. As far as stages, I believe most refer to the stages as the actual body changeover, which was 77 I believe. So Pre-77 would be Stage 1, and 77-79 and Brats 77-81 would be Stage 2. Engine/trim/chassis stages are another story -Bill

Those rims look pretty good, whats wrong with them? Im guessing the clearcoat has been gone for years, and there is probably light corrosion in areas? Probably just need a good sanding/polishing, then have them re clearcoated really good, with like umpteen million coats, then NEVER use Mag wheel cleaner/polish on them again, only soap and water or other paint-safe cleaners. -Bill

What rims does it have again, I forget IIRC, you have Turbo alloys or something?? Those might take a lot of stripper, polish, and elbow grease to restore, depending on what shape they are in now. Ill PM you about the strut -Bill

I myself love all the Gen 1s, but the Stage 1s are just a more stylish, classy rig, IMO. BTW, nothing says fancy like fake woodgrain -Bill

IF you decide to go with an EA series FWD auto, subaruguru has a 2wd 3at from an 89 DL that still shifted great and was overall still a good working trans... Just in case. Personally, I hate you (jk ) because you have the car I want sooo badly, and I am about to build the perfect motor for it I would go old school, but Hot Rod style. I love a restored, un modified rig, but I totally dig a well-thought out and well built hot rod even more, which is why I totally dig Kostamojen's FF-1 project Im not much for modern power, but if you can make it look right, in addition to run like a bat outa hell, then go for it. But if it would just turn out looking like a hack job with a rats nest of wiring under the hood, then I would have to give a big thumbs down. Its all in how you execute the idea onto the actual vehicle that will make it or break it. Your car has a lot of great potential, and when its done it will turn heads anywhere it goes, and will be a pretty classy vehicle, and i cant wait to see it finished! -Bill

I wouldnt call it bigger, I think it just has more of a bulbous, rounder shape to it than the rather flat-sided Stage 1s, Id have to take some measurements to see whether or not they are actually bigger. The most noticable differences to me are the Stage 1s generally have the turn signals under the front bumper or in the grill, whereas the Stage 2s have the ones that wrap around the corner of the fender (Gen 1 Brat). Also the stage 1s have that stylish seam that runs the length of the body, where the stage 2s dont have such a noticible line there, its rather subtle. Overall I think the Stage 1s are a bit cooler in that there is a little more style in every part of the car, compare interior trim like the door handles/trim and stuff to a Stage 2, and you see that the stage 2 stuff just isnt as fancy-feeling, the Stage 2s are much more utilitarian in feel. -Bill

Here's the bumper strut, its not as pretty as yours, but I can clean it up and repaint it if you would like, the passenger side one was in better shape until I damaged it when I got PO'd cuz the bumper would not come off... -Bill

The body lines on the stage 1 cars is different from the stage 2 cars, but most of the drivetrain parts will interchange between stage one and stage 2, but your car should have a special engine crossmember and exhaust being a Dual Port 1400 car, the steering rack should be on top of the crossmember instead of under it. As far as interior parts, I cant really tell you what changes and what doesnt, but I know that all the door handles are different on Stage 1 and stage 2 cars. Stage 2 cars are the same body as the Gen 1 Brats. -Bill