The Beast I Drive

To ammend Northwet's comment, being Non-interference, there will NOT be any internal damage to the engine if the belt(s) break or slip. If the problem is the timing belt, slap a new one on and it should run like new -Bill

Some of the manual Impreza/Legacy ones came with 4.111 gears, others had 3.9s... But there should be a tag on the rear diff that shows what the ratio is. -Bill

It should fit SPFI, that is what the first one was ordered for. Unfortunately, I couldnt get an SPFI manifold, all I had was a Weber setup. I am assuming it will fit, Bratman will be able to tell me if it fits or not very shortly, he is getting the prototype, if it does not fit I will immediately redesign it to work. -Bill

GD, you are very seldom wrong, but this is an erronious statement ^ Not all Gen 1 brats had 4.111, most I encountered had 3.9 diffs. -Bill

It might, if its a 79-81 it is probable that it has 3.9 diffs, but still possible it could have 4.111s. If it is a 78, there is a good chance it may have the 4.111 diffs, which is why you have to check, or just grab the diff from whatever car you pull a trans from. -Bill

Some Gen 1's had 4.111 gears, but that was only the 76-early 78 models IIRC, might have been a DL thing... Although my 1980 Brat DL had 3.9s... Most of the Gen 1 brats I have run into had 3.9 diff ratios. The best way I can think of is to make a ring and divide it into 36 degree increments (which should give you 10 marks) that fits over the input shaft, then make one mark on the input shaft and mark a place on one of the diff stubs, then rotate the input shaft until the diff stub has made 1 full rotation. Then use the marks on the ring to see what ratio you have. If it takes a little over 4.1 turns of the input to rotate the stub 1 rotation, then you have 4.111 gears. If it takes 3.9 turns of the input then you have 3.9 gears. -Bill

I believe in WA you have to have something resembling a door, or like 6" of rise on the rocker panel or some bulls*** like that. I could care less, I ran without doors all last summer and never got pulled over, and I passed plenty of cops. I had mirrors on the fenders just to be a little bit legal Tube doors are legal -Bill

I would say use the 27" tires aired down, seems to work pretty well for the dunes people. Welded rear end probly wouldnt be a bad idea either -Bill

well, thats kinda how they come, the mounting bar for the alt is actually sold as part of an alternator mount for a small block Chevy. I use the top hole to fit the belt that comes in the kit, and there is only one threaded hole on the front of the head, but you could use the other hole if you had to for some reason.

Yeah Ive heard that sand paddles are only good if you can make them spin really fast, otherwise you are better off with some good A/Ts or mud tires. -Bill

I did a mod to the Beast where I can pull the hinge pins out and pull off the doors in seconds with just my pliers, but I also took out the speakers and disconnected the power mirrors, I have manual windows though... Wouldnt be too hard to wire in a waterproof plug for all your wiring, and the doors arent too heavy. Im also planning on making some jeep-style hinges, where you just lift up the door to take it off -Bill

Right on! Also, I was looking at a EA81 manual rack and an EA82 PS rack, and I noticed the mounting points are in the same dimensions, so I will also look into how feasible it is/what needs to be done to use a EA82 PS rack in an EA81 car, as this is what I plan to do to my Brat as well when I lift it this summer. -Bill

I would say as long as the wobbly pully isnt tearing up belts, run it as is. Heck I have a bad crank/main bearings (read 1/4" of shaft play in any direction) and no front main seal and my EA81 in the Beast still runs (I know, recipe for disaster, but I dont drive it much ) -Bill

Twitch, I am certain it will work with the 100 amp upgrade, but it will require a slightly offset adjuster arm, I will be working on that soon, as I am going to fit one of these kits in the Beast so I can get my PS back, and I already have a 100 amp GM early-style alternator in there. For the record, the modified arm on my 100 amp conversion started out as the exact same arms I now use in this kit... I had to put like 1/2" offset or something in it when i did the 100 amp alt conversion... -Bill

If you ever decide to go with a 4" or bigger lift, let me know... But I am diggin the way it sits right now -Bill

I just fixed the same problem you have, and McBrat is dead on the money. Also, if you did bend that little linkage rod at all, you must bend it back to the stock shape or it wont work right (makes it a royal pain in the a$$ to get it in and then it dont work right... I found out the hard way) Also, make sure you lube up the latches and linkage with some Liquid wrench or WD40 or something with graphite in it. It will make it open like new I did that to all my doors on my brat and adjusted all the linkages and now they open and close better than new, a baby could open my doors with its pinky, even on the side that got T-boned in the past! Wow I get carried away... -Bill

Hey Ya'll, I have a little something Im gonna try and sell here, and Ill post in the parts for sale as well, but mostly Im just guaging interest here right now. What I have here is a kit that allows you to mount a power steering pump from any EA82 car on any EA81 (w/o air conditoning though, this moves the alternator to where the A/C compressor would have been) This kit will work if you have a Weber on an EA81 or EA82 manifold, or SPFI, or the stock Hitachi carb even! This is perfect for those of you with SPFI on your lifted Brat, Hatch, or Wagon, or if you have swapped an EA81 into your EA82 off road car. It is all bolt-on, and includes everything you need except the power steering unit components (pump, rack, lines, etc.) Comes with all new bolts as well. I will also send you installation instructions, with helpful pictures! If there is enough interest I have the resources to make a lot of these, and if I can get more people at once I can offer lower prices. As it sits, Im looking to get $60 for a kit, or PM me with trades or something and we can make a deal. I will have to ask for any byuers to please send me your old A/C Delete alternator brackets as a core after you have completed the swap, including the little spacer dealio. Now for the pics The kit (includes everything seen here) This is what it will look like installed (JDM EA81 w/EA82 manifold and Weber 32/36 shown) Here is is on a motor from an 82 GL (no manifold installed in pic) Thanks for looking, please let me know what you think, ask any questions, and PM me if you are interested in one of these, I have 2 built and ready to ship right now. Thanks! -Bill Bill Omlin Subaru Off Road Specialties(BOSOR)

Ive never pulled a trailer with my subes, but I have pulled a large v8 powered forklift with the Beast... My scariest towing incident was towing home a 1988 Eagle Medallion on our car trailor with the 2500 Cumins Dodge... The way the car was parked it was easier to load it on the trailor facing backwards, as it didnt run when I picked it up. Well, being front engine/fwd with a cast iron block, its heavy in the front. That didnt register with me until we were cruisin down the freeway and as i hit 60mph the trailor started swinging the whole truck from side to side, getting more violent as we slowed down until I got it below 40mph. I was scared ************less, but I was able to recover it and I didnt wreck, nor cause any wrecks. Learned my lesson on that one for sure! -Bill

Can't you get around smog by retitling it and registering it as a "custom car" or Collector vehicle? A '69 bug is a collector vehicle, anything 1972 and older... Thats how most folks get away with blown 454 Chevelles and such... -Bill

Ya know, in hindsight, you shoulda gone with red instead green for the accent pieces, seeing as how the whole car was red before, but Im glad you didnt, because thats what Im doing with my RX -Bill

The custom bodywork isnt quite finished, still needs some body filler in there to smooth it all out and make it look like factory, and there are a few other things that are planned as well... Also had some pretty radical ideas for the hatch while Robbie was there too, but that would require an extra hatch to play with... -Bill

What all do you need help with? Im no where near you, so I cant personally lend a hand, but its a pretty strait forward swap. The only problem Ive really heard of is if the Weber has an Electric choke and the car has power steering, the choke body hits the power steering resevoir and has to be converted to manual choke. Other than that, its just a matter of installing the adaptor, re-routing the PCV lines, and capping/removing un neccessary vaccum lines/solenoids/wires. Then tuning it of course. I usually take off the manifold, cut off and dress any bungs or casting marks I dont want/need, and plug any uneeded vacuum ports, the clean it up a little with a flap disk and put it on then, makes it look a lot nicer when you open the hood. -Bill

Actually the turn outs on the side make it not as loud from inside the cabin. Yeah it sets off car alarms everywhere, but thats what I love about it Actually my Brat is louder, cuz of the 3" stacks. I ran with the exact same setup as the Beast but right after the glasspacks the pipes go up into the stacks RESONATION!!!! -Bill

You should try the search feature on this site. then you would know that Delta Cams makes cams for almost any motor on the planet, and are extremely affordable -Bill

Here's my example I used 1 7/8" tubing and Cherry Bombs. I recomend a crossover pipe or X-pipe of some sort to help with the scavenging and even out the pressure between the heads, it will bring back some low end torque as well. -Bill