sunflowersubaru

Afewsubarus....did you actually have to drop the exhaust pipes off the engine or was there enough clearance to pull it on through? Thank you.

Is it possible to connect the PS pump's discharge to its suction and run it with fluid at normal reservoir level without destroying it? Don't think a swap is worth it considering the state of the vehicle. Just looking to get by for a few more weeks. Thank you.

87 Subaru GL w/ 1.8L, 5sp, WGN, 4WD D/R, carb, PS and AC. Noticed drip coming from the driver's side of steering rack and puddle of atf fluid on the driveway. Pulled the boot towards the wheel and in doing so it dumped atf fluid, a real gusher. Passenger's side boot is broken at the outside spring and somewhat wet. PS pump reservoir empty. Have read varying opinions on this website re driving without PS system operating so I started the car up to take a test drive. Heard the pump's low growl and the rack's immediate, loud howl when I began to turn the steering wheel left or right even just a small amount. Test drive over that quick. Rebuilt rack from O'Reilly's is $300 plus $30 core. From the manual, a change out in my own garage looks possible but not sure it's worth it. Is it possible to connect the PS pump's discharge to its suction and run it with fluid at normal reservoir level without destroying it? If so, will the rack function or eventually lock up, be destroyed? Would expect turning the steering wheel to be more difficult, but not up for a rack lockup and or failure at 70 mph. Thank you.

87 GL WGN 5SP MT 4WD Carb. Basic problem is that until it warms up a bit, engine idles rough. In the colder months, winter especially, idle is unsustained without continuously pressing on the gas peddle until it warms up. In the summer it will idle without pressing the gas peddle as in the winter but only at 50 rpm, the first line above zero. Once it warms up, it idles nicely at about 700-800 rpm. With engine cold and thinking it might be overchoked, inserted long screwdriver into carb throat to hold allow more air flow but it would not start. Removed screwdriver and it started but still being cold, idled, rough and barely. With engine still fairly cold, disconnected the temperature sensor wire, no change. Waited until the engine warmed up and removed it again, car continued to idle ok and the temp guage went to zero. Re-connected the temperature sensor wire and the temperature gauge came back to normal. New radiator, thermostat, and water pump intake hose this past February - no more coolant leaks. Thank you.

Understand that EJ has problem with head gaskets leaks.

Thank you.

New to Loyale. Looking at picking one up but don't want the EJ series. Did Subaru stay with the EA82 for Loyale 90-94 or jump to the EJ series? I should have asked earlier but will now. Were they AWD only or optional AWD or 4WD? Seems as though sellers list them as being one in the same and it is confusing. Thank you.

Thank you.

Broken boot on the CV joint side of a half shaft. Cannot tell from oem service manual if removing the bearings, spacer and inner/outer seals from the housing is required in order to replace the entire half shaft. If so, are new bearings, spacer, and inner/seals required? Can the CV joint be rebooted by alternatively breaking down the DOJ after its been removed from the differential spindle with the axle still in the housing? Thought here is to only replace the CV boot. Thank you.

So far the sealed bearing is working well. Thank you.

I will return the bearing for a refund. Thank you.

franck2cv, What do you mean by fail? Thank you.

That is correct...NAPA 6206-2RSJ. This one is sealed with rubbler. The NAPA machine shop did the replacement. By the way, does it matter how the bearing is sealed, metal or rubber? The metal sealed bearing is NAPA 6202-2ZJ. Thank you.

Went to NAPA and they had the bearing. NAPA shop attached to the parts store installed the bearing for not much. Installed and it runs quiet. Have an extra bearing also just in case. Doubt the car will last long enough to use it. I'd still like to pick up an idler pulley just in case this one goes south and cannot be salvaged. Anyone recognize the idler pulley in the photos? Thank you.

EA82 engine idles rough. In checking vacuum lines I came across one that when removed from the connector under the air cleaner and plugged the engine idle smoothes out and there is a slight increase in rpm. 1st photo-inlet port in the air filter housing. 2nd photo-vacuum line from air filter housing connector to a fixed, vertical connector attached to the bracket where the back corner of the air filter housing is bolted. 3rd photo-tee off the lower end of the fixed vertical connector in 2nd photo and set back from the back side of the intake manifold. Vacuum line from the connector on the underside of the air filter housing comes in from the top left corner of the photo and connects to the top side of the fixed vertical connector. 4th photo-vacuum line from the run side of the tee ends at the manifold. 5th photo-vacuum line from the branch side of the tee rises upward, loops through a hose holder on the air filter housing and then goes to the windshield washer. What is this inlet port in the air filter housing for and can it be plugged without causing problems? If so, my vacuum leak problem is perhaps solved. Thank you.