sunflowersubaru

Afewsubarus....did you actually have to drop the exhaust pipes off the engine or was there enough clearance to pull it on through? Thank you.

Is it possible to connect the PS pump's discharge to its suction and run it with fluid at normal reservoir level without destroying it? Don't think a swap is worth it considering the state of the vehicle. Just looking to get by for a few more weeks. Thank you.

87 Subaru GL w/ 1.8L, 5sp, WGN, 4WD D/R, carb, PS and AC. Noticed drip coming from the driver's side of steering rack and puddle of atf fluid on the driveway. Pulled the boot towards the wheel and in doing so it dumped atf fluid, a real gusher. Passenger's side boot is broken at the outside spring and somewhat wet. PS pump reservoir empty. Have read varying opinions on this website re driving without PS system operating so I started the car up to take a test drive. Heard the pump's low growl and the rack's immediate, loud howl when I began to turn the steering wheel left or right even just a small amount. Test drive over that quick. Rebuilt rack from O'Reilly's is $300 plus $30 core. From the manual, a change out in my own garage looks possible but not sure it's worth it. Is it possible to connect the PS pump's discharge to its suction and run it with fluid at normal reservoir level without destroying it? If so, will the rack function or eventually lock up, be destroyed? Would expect turning the steering wheel to be more difficult, but not up for a rack lockup and or failure at 70 mph. Thank you.

87 GL WGN 5SP MT 4WD Carb. Basic problem is that until it warms up a bit, engine idles rough. In the colder months, winter especially, idle is unsustained without continuously pressing on the gas peddle until it warms up. In the summer it will idle without pressing the gas peddle as in the winter but only at 50 rpm, the first line above zero. Once it warms up, it idles nicely at about 700-800 rpm. With engine cold and thinking it might be overchoked, inserted long screwdriver into carb throat to hold allow more air flow but it would not start. Removed screwdriver and it started but still being cold, idled, rough and barely. With engine still fairly cold, disconnected the temperature sensor wire, no change. Waited until the engine warmed up and removed it again, car continued to idle ok and the temp guage went to zero. Re-connected the temperature sensor wire and the temperature gauge came back to normal. New radiator, thermostat, and water pump intake hose this past February - no more coolant leaks. Thank you.

Understand that EJ has problem with head gaskets leaks.

Thank you.

New to Loyale. Looking at picking one up but don't want the EJ series. Did Subaru stay with the EA82 for Loyale 90-94 or jump to the EJ series? I should have asked earlier but will now. Were they AWD only or optional AWD or 4WD? Seems as though sellers list them as being one in the same and it is confusing. Thank you.

Thank you.

Broken boot on the CV joint side of a half shaft. Cannot tell from oem service manual if removing the bearings, spacer and inner/outer seals from the housing is required in order to replace the entire half shaft. If so, are new bearings, spacer, and inner/seals required? Can the CV joint be rebooted by alternatively breaking down the DOJ after its been removed from the differential spindle with the axle still in the housing? Thought here is to only replace the CV boot. Thank you.

So far the sealed bearing is working well. Thank you.

I will return the bearing for a refund. Thank you.

franck2cv, What do you mean by fail? Thank you.

That is correct...NAPA 6206-2RSJ. This one is sealed with rubbler. The NAPA machine shop did the replacement. By the way, does it matter how the bearing is sealed, metal or rubber? The metal sealed bearing is NAPA 6202-2ZJ. Thank you.

Went to NAPA and they had the bearing. NAPA shop attached to the parts store installed the bearing for not much. Installed and it runs quiet. Have an extra bearing also just in case. Doubt the car will last long enough to use it. I'd still like to pick up an idler pulley just in case this one goes south and cannot be salvaged. Anyone recognize the idler pulley in the photos? Thank you.

EA82 engine idles rough. In checking vacuum lines I came across one that when removed from the connector under the air cleaner and plugged the engine idle smoothes out and there is a slight increase in rpm. 1st photo-inlet port in the air filter housing. 2nd photo-vacuum line from air filter housing connector to a fixed, vertical connector attached to the bracket where the back corner of the air filter housing is bolted. 3rd photo-tee off the lower end of the fixed vertical connector in 2nd photo and set back from the back side of the intake manifold. Vacuum line from the connector on the underside of the air filter housing comes in from the top left corner of the photo and connects to the top side of the fixed vertical connector. 4th photo-vacuum line from the run side of the tee ends at the manifold. 5th photo-vacuum line from the branch side of the tee rises upward, loops through a hose holder on the air filter housing and then goes to the windshield washer. What is this inlet port in the air filter housing for and can it be plugged without causing problems? If so, my vacuum leak problem is perhaps solved. Thank you.

I am on it! Thank you.

Here are some photos of my engine and the AC belt idler pulley. Mounting bolts are the long hex shaped bolt on the left and the partially threaded-in bolt on the right. When I spin the pulley I can hear it chirp, not short chirps but long chirps. The number on the back side of the bracket looks like 773003, but the last digit is not completely clear. Would like to pick up a spare idler pulley just in case. In the mean time I will give NAPA a call re the bearing. Thank you.

Have a carburated 1.8L, EA82, '87 GL WGN, 5SP Manual, 4X4 with A/C and power steering. Looking for an A/C idler pulley. Dealer and local parts houses don't carry them anymore and salvage yards here in the KC, MO area don't have much in the way of subarus, especially the type of subaru I am looking for. Any suggestions? Can the bearing can be replaced, hopefully without damaging the pulley - I don't have another pulley to fall back on? Can this engine be operated safely without the A/C belt if I don't run the A/C system? Can this engine be converted to a non-A/C engine? If so, where can one find the right bracket and dual v-belt pulley alternator? Have also read that some have forced lubricant into the bearing but no feedback as to how well that works long term. Input would be appreciated. Thank you.

Complet:clap: ed work on both the headlights and the horns. Headlights: Turned out to be a bad bulb. Odd that the L/H low beam would not work even though both filaments looked okay. Put in new bulb on L/H side and the R/H low beam went out. Replaced the R/H side bulb. Now have low/high beams on both sides. Horns: Turned out to be bad horns. Voltage at the connectors and at the horn switch on the steering wheel where ok. Tested horns directly off the battery and both failed. By the way, instead of pulling the bumper or removing the headlights or turn light, I dropped the cowling that is below the bumper and stretches accross the vehicle from qtr panel to qtr panel. Doing so left plenty of room with which to get to the horn and install the new ones. Not much room behind the turn signal. Had the headlights out once before to reseal the glass to the the reflector - not doing that again! Picked up one low tone and one high tone horn at the local parts store for about $14 apiece. Made sure they were two connector type and not a case grounded single connector type. Horns came with a grounding wire to attach one of the connectors to the mounting plate bolt for ground. Neither horn was polarity conscious so it made the installation even easier. Took my subie for a spin to test lights and horns, when there wasn't any other traffic of course. Wouldn't ya know it, I picked a side street set with a speed trap. Luckily I wasn't speeding and only testing the horns. Lights on and horn at the ready! Thanks.

Clairfication.....have a two headlight system. Now understand that the sealed beam system has four headlights. On the learning curve! Thanks.

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Lo/Hi Beams for 2 Headlight (Sealed Lamp) System: Low beam for L/H single headlight for 87 GL 4WD WGN won't work, but low beam for R/H single headlight does. Hi beams for both sides work. Tired a replacement bulb for the L/H side single headlight but no luck. Horn(s): Horn or horns basically faded out and now zip. Have read of several ways to get at the horns, through the headlight, through the bumper or through the turn signal. Does through the turn signal mean the turn signal in the bumper or just ahead of the quarter panel above the bumper. Mine is the latter arrangement. The bits and pieces I've read to date pertaining to the above were not specifically for my make and model so I am not sure where to start. Thanks!

08-10-2006, 05:28 AM daeron USMB is life! Join Date: May 2006 City: West Palm Beach State: Florida Age: 25 Posts: 215 iTrader: (0) Vehicles: 1987 GL-10 N/A Auto Re: Can't Get It Started -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- nice post, that was a thorough but concise explanation of your problem and the solution, as well as how you found it. you might want to edit the original subject to include brief model description, for benefit of people searching.. if nothing else it served as EXCELLENT inspiration to just take the carb apart and look at it, compared to schematic. if you get diagrams, you can figure a carburetor out. anyone here trying to fix their cars can probably do so, it was once considered the presumed skill level of the shadetree mechanic... but those were also two phantom problems that you pointed out, as potential examples for others having difficulties too. the fuel pump has been mentioned before, but you never know when a previous owner (or carb rebuild?) is gonna give you a gift like a steel ball in the vacuum advance... On input from daeron above, my car is a 1987 GL Subaru 4WD Wagon, 1.8 L, 5-speed. If you can borrow or afford to buy, OEM shop manuals are the way to go for those of us like me who keep their cars forever. Had same for my earlier 1964 Chevy. If nothing else, do an advanced search on user name sunflowersubaru in the Older Generation Forum. Happy Subbin'!

08-10-2006, 05:28 AM daeron USMB is life! Join Date: May 2006 City: West Palm Beach State: Florida Age: 25 Posts: 215 iTrader: (0) Vehicles: 1987 GL-10 N/A Auto Re: Can't Get It Started -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- nice post, that was a thorough but concise explanation of your problem and the solution, as well as how you found it. you might want to edit the original subject to include brief model description, for benefit of people searching.. if nothing else it served as EXCELLENT inspiration to just take the carb apart and look at it, compared to schematic. if you get diagrams, you can figure a carburetor out. anyone here trying to fix their cars can probably do so, it was once considered the presumed skill level of the shadetree mechanic... but those were also two phantom problems that you pointed out, as potential examples for others having difficulties too. the fuel pump has been mentioned before, but you never know when a previous owner (or carb rebuild?) is gonna give you a gift like a steel ball in the vacuum advance... On input from daeron above, my car is a 1987 GL Subaru 4WD Wagon, 1.8 L, 5-speed. If you can borrow or afford to buy, OEM shop manuals are the way to go for those of us like me who keep their cars forever. Had same for my earlier 1964 Chevy.

Good idea. 1987 Subaru GL Wagon 4WD, 1.8 L, 5-speed, Hitachi carb. Had the benefit of a complete set of Subaru shop manuals that I purchased in 1991 when I bought the car with 40,000 miles....and a lot of determination to find out just what the sam hill was wrong. Certainly helped to keep me from being 1000% at the mercy of shop mechanics who didn't know or didn't care to know.