Partsman

Code 7 is one of the specification codes which your computer puts out to let you know what specs the computer conforms to. Your code is for A/T vehicles sold to 49 state and Canada specs. Unfortunately, that still leaves your driveability issue. My suggestion is to read the factory service manual - my favorite Subie link! http://www.finleyweb.net/docs/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart1.pdf and part 2: http://www.finleyweb.net/docs/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.pdf

Myxalplyx: Hate to hijack this post, BUT I wanted to get back to you. I'm currently on vacation, snowmobiling in Eastern Oregon Will check when I get back next week.

Just remember, you can substitute a good purge control solenoid (the one that looks the same as the EGR solenoid, just to the left as you look under the hood) if you cannot find a good EGR solenoid. Just splice the connector from the old EGR solenoid onto your good purge solenoid. BTW, here's a link to the factory test procedure for testing EGR solenoids - it's on page 122 of the PDF. http://www.finleyweb.net/docs/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart1.pdf And the entire test procedure for a code 34 is on page 71 of the second section of the PDF. http://www.finleyweb.net/docs/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.pdf My suggestion would be to run off these PDF's and put them in a binder. They will be so much more help to you than your Chilton on fixing engine and electrical problems. Bummer Jon Finley only put these sections on the web - of course, he has airplanes so he doesn't care about the rest of the systems!

I agree - they are probably just bulbs, but I don't have firsthand knowledge of digidash. The other possibility is that it could be the switch that turns those bulbs on. On my wife's 88 Camry, it's part of the neutral safety switch. But take the dash out and have a look - it only takes a few screws (at least on my 88 GL).

Garner, Garner, Garner. Tsk, tsk, tsk. You didn't buy the gaskets from me where I could have given you the kind discount! BTW, Napa gaskets are made by Victor, not FelPro. Unless you buy Beck-Arnley, of course. Any USMBers in the Eugene area - mention USMB to me (Brian) and I'll hook you up with better pricing.

Jeez, they require the shift indicator lights to work? What a crock!

Part it out! You'll probably get more money that way. Of course, it's hard to convince the wife to put up with a junkyard in the driveway!

Just remember - EVERYTHING is negotiable at a junkyard. Call him up and lowball him a price - can't be that much demand for it if they are going to crush it. The guy was probably disappointed you didn't come back with "I'll offer you $20 for it!" It's like being in a third world country purchasing stuff - haggle!

You should be able to get them at NAPA, although you will have to bring a sample or know the size, thread pitch and length since our Anglophile computers and books don't list them by application!

I'm showing listings for parts in the NAPA system for 82-84 Dodge Rampage and 83 only Plymouth Scamp. Turbo option in 83 and 84. Get a BRAT, it'll last longer!

Yes

Do a search for "lifter noise" or "tick*" and you will see that the subject has been covered ad nauseum in the recent past. Feel free to try any of the recommended fixes, but the only one that seems to work 100% is the tough one - oil pump reseal/replace. Searching is your friend! Do not fear the search!

Scoobydoo, thanks for the link! That's a well-written article on wiring the lamps to flash alternately. The best thing about doing it that way is that the flasher load stays the same as stock, and you don't have to worry about the flasher blinking at a different speed or a bulb burnout not causing the flasher to stop blinking. Incidentally, if you see a car that has inordinately bright taillamps on one side that go out when they hit the brakes, their problem is what you are doing on purpose here - lifting the ground so the electrical flow runs incorrectly or not at all.

OK - so here's what you've got: 1. Your gas gauge is reading wrong if it is at "E" and you only take 11 gallons. Might be interesting to take a gallon of gas with you and run the thing completely out, seeing just how far below "E" you can run it. When you run out, put the gallon in, go get gas, and see how much fuel it takes. That fill-up plus 1 gallon will be your capacity. 2. You are getting bad mileage. If you have only gone 165 miles on your 11 gallons of not-quite-full tank, you are getting 15mpg (165 divided by 15). OR, maybe someone is stealing your gas, but I'll bet they won't steal the same amount every time, so check over several tankfuls.

Subiemech, he has a Loyale - just because it's a 94 doesn't mean its a Legacy!

15 mpg is definitely horrific mileage, I consider the 18-19 I get in the city right now to be bad (am going to do the tune up SOON!) Do you have a Check Engine light on? Has yours been tuned in the last 30k? Does it run roughly? Something is wrong besides the gauge being off!

No taprackready, I was talking about the Dualjet carburetor which came stock on small block V8's and V6's in the late 70's (mine was a 79 Malibu 267 V8). The main problem I had with mine was the throttle shaft wore out its bushings and caused a vacuum leak. I still say that the CFM these carbs were designed for will cause an overrich condition on an 1800 engine!

(bump) Alaskans, any comments?

Sounds like a headache! Rochesters in general are a pain in the behind. I think it would put too much fuel out for the engine mainly. I can't believe someone had one on a Ford in the first place!

BTW Miles - The part number on the timing cover set is JV1028, not JU1028 Nice looking page!

Yeah, I don't see how you will get any power at all if you're heads aren't put together and your cars locked. (man, I'm sorry - BAD joke!)

You turbo guys just want to leave us! Well, fine! Go have your own little party! Us naturally aspirated folks will be here when you come running back with your intercoolers between your legs! :D (just some good-natured humor! this is not a flame!)

I'm glad to see you don't want to rip anybody off, but just make sure you don't price yourself out of business. Remember, your time and work are worth something! Plus, if you've got inventory sitting on the shelf, that's money that isn't earning interest in the bank/investment account. Howzabout new egr and purge control solenoids!

Sounds logical. I think the only true test will be the acid test - drive it through slush and puddles and see if you've got a winner. Maybe it won't thaw for a few weeks for you and you can put off the test! I'm originally from Unity, and I'm coming out to God's country (no one else would have it!) in a couple of weeks to see my folks and do some snowmobiling. I hear it's a 20 year best snowpack! :banana: Am sure glad I have a Sub for the trip - might even get into 4LO!

Man, only on this board would you get flak for wanting to buy this vehicle and experiment with it! I say, go for it! We aren't talking about a 100 point concours Yenko Camaro, or even a 100 point Subaru for that matter. I want to hear how it turns out!