Mr. Wob

Thank - this helps a lot for both the suspension and search function. XT6 parts really are the biggest hurdle for me, thats why I am interested in alternatives. Maybe I just need to get an Impreza at this rate lol! Actually I see lots of Legacy wagons for cheap, maybe I should look that way. But I must say, for a city beater, I sure do like my Loyale. It has its quirks, but its fun for sure.

I know some of these have been asked, I apologize, I can only seem to find 50% of my answers. I know I have to do a 5 lug conversion and I have read what is required, but I can't seem to find whether all Impreza and WRX parts are interchangable for it. It seems to easier and cheaper to find Impreza hubs and WRX struts. Thanks Caboo, that link seems to answer some of these questions. Its ashame though because its so hard to find XT6 parts. I found a few parts cars, but I have no room for that. Is there a way on search to include words as a phrase? If I search WRX suspension it brings up suspension and WRX hits.

I know the dead horse may be kicked a few times in here, but I'll try my best. I have a 93 Loyale Wagon that has been a beater since last year. Body is so-so, engine runs strong, and could use some tie rod ends, and another ball joint. I havebeen having some visions of upgrading to some new parts though. I have been thinking WRX knuckles/hubs, struts and springs for the front. And I would like to use similar parts on the rear. First question - Do regular Impreza parts work in conjunction with WRX parts? For example, can I use base Impreza hubs/knuckles and WRX struts and springs? Likewise, what brakes will fit this setup? 2nd, How about the rear? In my searches I have found only info on Accord springs or XT6 five lug swap. Are Impreza or WRX parts possible? Will a WRX steering rack or master cylinder fit? I am thinking I want to tackle the suspension first, then do an EJ swap, so perhpas that needs to be kept in mind for the best answers. As usual, thanks in advance

As I was driving along the highway the noise level in my Loyale wagon went from normal to farm tractor in an instant. It actually took me a minute to realize it was my car and not a truck engine braking Either way, the rear muffler pipe rotted away at the flange connecting to the mid pipe. i need to get a new gasket and muffler with pipe now. I tried my old faithful http://www.overnightautoparts.com but before i order, I wanted to see if anyone knows of a better place to order (or cheaper). I have had good service with them so far however. Also, can someone clarify the pipe I need to order I am confused by the two part numbers they have listed. I just need the muffler and pipe set - the mid pipe flange is still ok.

Do Accord springs work front and rear? I actually would like to get a bit lower center of gravity and a bit better handling out of my wagon. Would those cheapo ebay coilover style springs work front and back?

I guess I just need to play around with the vacuum lines again - I was just attaching, waiting and seeing if the light came on then trying the other one, then I just put it back to stock. Therefore, I have no clue which one actually put it in 4WD. The times I drove it in between too I never felt binding , then poof, got in and I felt it I guess my question is that I need to put vacuum to one line to put it in and then I can return it to stock setup, then the other line needs to be connected to take it out and THEN I need to reverse the car and roll it around a bit to get it out?

Of course!!! Now I was messing around with the solenoid vacuum lines again and I went for a drive and it seems to be binding in turns and the car needs some gas to roll with the wheels turned trying to park. So I though ok great 4WD does work! The bulb must be blown. All the vacuum lines are plugged in as normal right now. I tried pulling forward and back and rolling etc, but now I can't get it OUT of 4WD I still dont know which line put in 4WD, but thats something I can mess with later - at least I know it works. But now how do I get it out??

I just did a ball joint and the tie rod boot is torn, but has no play and has been well greased since the tear. I'll replace that soon enough too, but I wanted to see if it was another problem first.

I did a U-Turn, but it was wet out. I still didn't feel any binding really though. I'll play around with it this weekend maybe, see if the the arm moves. Can I manually engage the arm if I slide underneath? What side of the tranny is it on? Thats Numb, you have been a good guide so far. It sounds more like its coming from the right front rather then the tranny area. I do have a manual though.

so an update - I tried bypassing the solenoid. I tried both vacuum lines that connect and I heard nothing and the light didnt go on. I tried driving with one connected and no engagement either. The line in has vacuum too. Sound like the 4WD is DOA? Or am I doing something wrong? Drive longer, wait longer etc? Gracias.

Wow - lots of replies! The vacuum line method seems to be more what I had in mind. And to answer the question about the wires - the wires are severed right at the silicone so I cant just splice. I really need to get a whole new unit and although someone on here had one, I have not had the time to worry about shipping and installing. So I just need a "___" size vacuum line connector - very good to know. As far as the front is concerned, I havent swapped wheels. I live in Manhattan, so its difficult to get space to work. I will try that next - thanks and if there are more ideas I would love to hear them as well. Thanks again.

I am not so much interested in making a whole setup. I just have a some severed wires right at the solenoid that need to be replaced for my 4WD to work again. In the mean time I wanted to know if there is a manual way to engage the 4WD. As far as the steering is concerned, I have double checked all the things that were disconnected and everything is tight. I only undid the sway bar bolt, ball joint bolt and ball joint pinch bolt, so there was not much to check.

I never got around to replacing the severed wires on the solenoid, so I have been left with no 4WD. There may be some snow headed this way and I wanted to see if engaging 4WD without the use of the solenoid is possible. I heard installing a lever is possible, but what about without one? Is there a way to engage it without having to make a lever and moreover, if so, where I am I looking to engage it? Thanks - as usual. Also, now that I think of it - I did a ball joint the other day and now, I get a of back and forth in the steering wheel and kind of like a faint woodpecker noise under load. Not like a popping from a CV joint really though. I assume the steering wheel shimmy is from too much toe and needs an alignment, but the tapping noise I have no clue. I have a little tear in my CV boot, but I have been packing it with grease regularly until I fix it and the noise did not seem to start until after the ball joint was done Ideas?

So I figured what the hell and I beat the car like it owed me money and guess what? Tick got quiet, then went away! I am still going to change the oil, but I am glad it doesnt sound like I am driving an old Rabbit Diesel anymore Thanks guys.

thanks grossgary. i may do a half qt because its definately a bit hard to find a place with Marvel or Seafoam around here. Its been a little bit since I had the car really driving, probably a good 12+ starts that I would drive a block and park and shut it down. That plus the cooler weather probably plays a big role. Hell a good oil change may even shut it up for a little while.

wait my Loyale will do 80?

thanks for the responses, I know this has been beat to death. The oil was pretty clean when I got the car, so I just let it go, and it has been cooler so I am sure that has something to do with the noise. Also, due to Manhattan parking rules, the car gets a lot of cold start, cold shut down. I try to let it warm up when I can, but its not always possible. I am going to do an oil change with a qt of ATF fluid and hope it goes away a bit before I drive 300 miles. I was only going to keep the car for the summer, but as big of a PITA it is to have, I really like it and its proved useful many times. Its got 147,000 on the clock and starts right up for me all the time and this louder tick got me worried. Doing a pump seal or lifters is not feasible for me right now as I just dont have the place to do it. NYC tends to frown upon engine work on the street, so I am going to be sneaky and change my oil. Gotta love I can slide under the car with no ramps So 3qts 10/40, 1 qt ATF and then oil change #2 say in 500-600 miles? I was a bit scared to rev the car at all, but it seems like from some posts it has helped. My biggest fear was that I was revving a head that was gettign no oil, but that doesnt seem to be the culprit.

93 Loyale Wagon - it used to be quiet, then a slight tick that would fade as it heat up. Tonight, a pretty loud tick and I waited and revved to 2.5-3k a few times to warm it up and it didnt go away. I know the car needs an oil change and I am going to do that on Friday. I am not sure if I can get my hands on MMO since I live in Manhattan Pepboys are non-existant. I havent chnaged the oil since I got the car - I know I am a shlub - but its only got about 3000 on it since I bought it, but one day it was low and I added a quart of 10/40. Next time I checked it was a good 1/4 overfilled! I have yet to drain that out too. What weight should I use now and what how much do these subbies take? 4.25? or should I do a qt of ATF fluid plus the remaining oil? Sounds like it could be a bit louder on the rear passenger side too. I have to drive for 300 miles on saturday and I want to feel, you know, not horrible.

wow - thats great info! thanks alot!

Thanks. Obviously I know the essential differences, but although I have searched a bunch I didnt exactly find the info I was looking for. I was really looking if someone had done the swap and had a lot more info that what I had seen. I am suprised it hasnt been done more to be honest. A very light car with a fairly easy and powerful swap? Custom drive shafts and such are not hard. Is the length of the half shafts the same? Also is the rear diff strong enough in your opinion or would the STi diff make more sense?

everyone only discusses this in regard to the D/R tranny. What differs with using an Sti engine and tranny? I figure you will have to do hubs somehow and a few other things. I heard the D/R doesnt like holding power like the STi engine delivers.

bump - no recommendations for wheel bearings?

So I was able to look at the car this weekend. It definately seems its a wheel bearing. A very little bit, but noticeable amount of play on the wheel and the noise seems to be right there with the brakes off. I am going to order a kit and do it this upcoming weekend I think. Any good place to order from? I am reading up on the procedure on the Loyale and it sounds like its a pretty easy bearing - no press needed etc. Any advice though? I am not sure if there is hub damage, but I read about a DIY fix if there is, but I cant find what the fix actually is.

i am hoping so. I have a full garage with a tool for everything at my fathers house, its just a bit of a drive. Lets cross our fingers for the shim

one last bit - sorry for the assualt on this topic - since the garage is so far from my apt I have my concerns about the distance being driven and what it really is making the noise. - It makes noise at VERY low speeds too. One of the brake pad shims seems a bit out of place I wonder if its causing the end of the pad to dig in? It sounds very metal on metal though. Definate grinding. And since it gets louder if I steer in EITHER direction I just keep getting more and more confused.