MischivousSlpwlkr

Thanks for the reply's everyone. I made the trip uneventfully, but now I must decide what to do here. Most of the people I speak with seem to agree that driving with a leaky fuel tank is unsafe. I actually do have a small exhaust leak as well, though I'm not sure I understand how the two combined would cause a problem. As I said, I don't think it's the filler pipe, as gas drips down the side from the top of the tank, and only when very full. I pulled the passenger access panel, and the vapor smell was VERY strong. However, I could only see the sending units, and they all looked to be okay. I'm not gonna attempt to drop the tank myself, so it may be time for me to move on, unless I can find a garage willing to do it for a reasonable price. Anyone know a reliable place in Somerville/Cambridge, MA?

I don't think it's the filler b/c when the tank was full, gas was dripping down the sides from the top. I don't have another car to take.

The fuel tank in my 96 OBW leaks when very full, and there you can definitely smell vapor when you stand by the right rear wheel. I've just been driving it with a half full tank for the last month, but only once a week or so (been traveling for work). Today I brought the car into my uncle's garage (at his house, not a shop), to do the brakes. When he walked by the rear right wheel he started freaking out, telling me how dangerous it is, etc...Basically telling me I shouldn't do anything until I've fixed the problem. The vapor smell is definitely there, but I don't find it to be overwhelming. So my question is two fold: 1. I have an important doctor's appointment tomorrow, and it's a 4 hour drive. How dangerous is this? 2. Is there anyway to fix this without dropping the tank. I'm hoping that the leak is coming from the top where the filler line goes in, but I'm not positive. Either way, there doesn't seem to be any access. Thanks everyone!

That did it. Thanks! It definitely made the telltale sound of air breaking a vacuum when I opened it. Guess it seals just a little bit too well or something.

Thanks for pointing out those other threads...for some reason I couldn't find them when I searched. I'm gonna try taking off the cap and putting it back on tomorrow, and maybe jiggling the sensor. I'll let you all know how it goes... I've recently checked the fluid level, and it looks pretty good -- just a hair below the max line. This combined w/ the fact that I changed the pads and fluid about 1yr/20,000mi ago, makes me thing it isn't the pads or the fluid level. I also have a relatively new battery, and I replaced my alternator back in July, but I know that I am having some weird electrical issues....When I'm idling at night with the heat on the headlights dim when I step on the brakes. Def seems like there isn't always quite enough power, but I'm not sure that's the problem here, as the light always seems to go off when I step on the brakes.

My '96 legacy obw ej22 recently turned 200,000:banana:(and many thanks to all of you here who have helped keep her going), but unfortunately the brake light has started coming on at cold starts. More accurately, when I put down the parking brake (it's a 5spd), the light doesn't go off right away. Generally it goes off after the first hard-ish brake, or after I've been driving for a few minutes (but always when I am braking). My fluid isn't low, so I'm not really sure what else could be causing it. Any ideas? Thanks!

HAHAHA! Forester, I like your approach. I think I'm gonna try and grab a new one from autozone tonight and hopefully toss it in in the morning. It seems like this is a pretty easy repair. What could go wrong? :lol: And after I pass, I promise to offer some free legal advice to all the fine folks on this board that have kept my 'roo goin over the years:banana: But seriously, what should I be worried about going wrong here?

Thanks for the quick replys. I should probably add that borrowing a car is going to be unusually difficult, as most of my friends are either out of town for the summer, or taking bar exams themselves. Unfortunately there's multiple sites for the NY bar, so I can't even carpool w/ my friend who's also taking it. How quick are we talking about here? Is this something that I could do in less than an hour? Autozone has one for $130, and that is starting to sound like a good option. Olnick - that is a good question. Of course the even bigger one is, why am I taking the NY bar exam when I'm sure I don't want to be a lawyer or live in NY?

Hey everyone, so I have a bit of potential situation on my hands, and some good advice would be much appreciated. I have a 1996 2.2 OBW, and the other day the when I started my car the brake and battery lights came on and stayed on. I haven't driven the car more than a .5mi since then, but in the two times I've started it, they haven't gone away. According to the little bit of research I've done this is usually an alternator problem, which makes sense, as I've noticed before that if I idle at night with my headlights on, my flashers make the lights dim. My battery is about a year old, so that shouldn't be the problem. I have no problem getting a new alternator from Subaru and trying to install it. Here's the rub: I live in rural Vermont, about an hour from the nearest dealership, AND I need to drive to Albany on Monday night to take the NYS bar exam on Tuesday and Wednesday. This means that there is no way that I will have the 2 hours to get the part, and then another 2 hours to install it tomorrow, but I'm still gonna need to make this drive. The drive is about 130miles, around 1/3rd of which there is absolutely no cell phone service. So if I breakdown and get stuck, I'm really stuck. And I'll basically be flushing the thousands of dollars and hours I've spent preparing for this stupid exam down the toilet. So, I guess my question here, is how long does it take for an alternater to fail once the light comes on? I know there's usually a lot of variables with this stuff, but anyone have a best guess/average? Will I make it to Albany (and ideally, back to VT)?

Where the can I find one??? Some of you may remember my thread from last week complaining about the frozen guide pins on my calipers. I found a used set on this board, and I'm crossing my fingers that they show up today (thanks Grossgary!), but apparently one pin and boot is missing from the set. The dealership has a pin, no problem, but the boot has been a total pain to find. No parts stores or dealerships seem to have them around here (Denver), and the few websites selling them are super confusing. Anyone have an extra kicking around, or know where I can pick one up in the Denver area? Or even just a part # to search for online? To clarify, I've the got a '96 Legacy OBW 2.2 with dual piston calipers. Thanks!

I greased them, but I didn't really clean them. YES. LESSON LEARNED.

I am really starting to think these aren't worth saving. I don't completely understand how they got so seized up, as they moved the last time I did the brakes (summer 2007). I'm wondering if it was the cars many years in the salt belt, combined with the fact that last winter I didn't drive it once from November to May, and I basically let snow that was up to its windows just melt around it for 2 months. Anyway, if used calipers are really as cheap as everyone says, for the extra $10 or so over the rebuild kit, it might be the way to go. Like I said, the only rotation is from the pin in bracket! There is absolutly none where the pin goes into the caliper. I've been using liquid wrench...Unfortunately, since this was only a temporary move, and about to end soon, I don't have a ton of tools and stuff out here, and it sounds like in the end I might actually save money by just throwing away the calipers I got.

Okay, so to clarify, here is where I'm at: The lock bolt comes out of both calipers just fine. But, when I rotate them up they don't seem to be pivoting on the pin, but rather turning the pin in it's hole in the caliper bracket. To get them loose I've tried lots of liquid wrench, pounding with a regular hammer, large channel locks (one jaw on the outside part of the caliper, one on the inside part of the bracket), and lots of swearing. Unfortunately, I don't have access to an oxy/acetylene torch out here, but I would buy a cheap propane torch if it came to it. My other concern is that the lower bushings that the lock pin goes through seem to be completely frozen too, so it seems like even if I get the calipers off, I'm still gonna be fighting an uphill battle. My plan for the moment was to buy a new set of pins and calipers, and to cut through the frozen pins with a hacksaw, and then replace everything. I'd rather not do this, but I'm running low on time and ideas. Thanks again for the help and sticking with this thread though my battle!

Gary and GD, thank you very much, that has helped me get started! Now, I've been struggling for about a 2 hours now, and I've got another 2 questions. 1. On the lock bolt (on the bottom of the caliper), is the bushing that that goes thru supposed to slide within the caliper? Right now it is completely frozen. 2. I can't get the damn caliper off!!! I've been battling with it, and the top pin doesnt move at all in the caliper. The only turn I get is the pin turning in the caliper bracket. But nothing in the caliper. What should I do? It's getting late, and I'm starting to freak out a bit. Just to be clear, right now, my caliper is still stuck on the mount, at the pin on top. UPDATE: 3.5hrs later, I am giving up. These things are completely f'in frozen. I don't think they will ever move. Plan B: Buy new calipers. Not sure what else I'm gonna have to deal with. But, I need to drive from Denver to New York in 2 weeks, and I'm not sure that I can do the drive with the brakes like this. I'm also quite certain I can't pay the shop $700. D'OH!!!:mad::mad:

So I have 1996 OBW that I recently brought in to a shop b/c the bearing and knuckle were going bad. I told them to check everything else out while it was there. They told me that the glide pins were 80% frozen, and that I need new pads and rotors. They also wanted $700 to do the job, and having replaced pads myself in the past I said no thanks. They also told me I needed to replace the whole caliper. I am planning on undertaking this job tomorrow, but I've got a few questions. 1. Do I really need to replace the caliper? It seems like if I can knock the pins loose I should be able to lube em up again and they should be fine? No? 2. Am I gonna need to replace the pins if I don't replace the calipers? 3. How hard is it gonna be to get these pins, bolts, rotors, etc... out and off? Thanks for the help!

Thanks Fairtax, that is helpful. I am pretty sure the bearing is a problem. Even though it was replaced a year ago, when I jacked the car up, there was tons of play in the whole hub when I shook the tire. Also, when I turn right, noise seems to stop, then comes back on a left hand turn. The rotors are shot, I've been meaning to replace them. He says the calipers are like 75% seized up and need to be replaced. I've checked the pads myself, and they aren't completely shot, but I'd imagine would be worth replacing with everything else. I'm really thinking that even changing the calipers won't be too hard, so that leaves the whole knuckle swap. How hard is that gonna be? How many special tools will I need? Is it fairly straight forward, or are there a lot of wierd little things in there that I don't know about?

So I've had a weird screaching noise coming from my front passenger side wheel when I brake at low speeds for a short(ish) while, which is sometimes accompanied by a light clunck, especially when making left turns. I suspected it was the wheel bearing. I brought it in to a shop, which came highly recommended as honest, and they said that was true, and then found a laundry list of other problems. Most of them are believeable. It does seem like it is time to get rid of the car, but I just dropped $1500 worth of tranny and clutch into it, so that isn't really an option now. Of course I don't have the money to fix it properly either (3rd year grad student), so I'm sorta stuck here, in a city that totally sucks without a car. They say at the very least, I need a new wheel bearing, probably a new hub, and the ball joint looks very rusted, so probably one of those as well. And new front brake calipers, rotors, and pads. They also say I need new rack boots, a left axel boot (I never noticed that but I'll look again when I get the car), a cam plug, valve gaskets (the last two have leaked since i got the car. whatever...), right down to an air filter. I'm not going to worry about this for now, but I figure I still need to consider it when weighing my options. They are quoting me $470 for the bearing and hub, and $712 for the brakes. Just called them again to tell them I was gonna pick it up and think about it. This time they said they will work with used parts, but don't have an estimate worked up yet. Also, they said they might be able to work out a better price on breaks. So, I'm thinking that unless he comes up with some much better numbers I might attempt this myself. I have never done any major work, but I am sort of mechanically inclined, and I've changed my brake pads, thermostat, speed sensor, and assorted other light work. How hard would it be for me to get a decent knuckle with a bearing in it at a junk yard and swap it out over the weekend? Possible? And change the ball joint while I'm down there. Are there lots of special tools required? I've got standard wrenches and stuff, and the sub service manuel, so I figure that could help. Same question, but for the brakes....seems like those would be easier. Can I do this? I'm also considering maybe letting the shop do the front end stuff, and I'd do the brakes myself? Any advice would be much appreciated. Also, I'm in Denver if it matters. THANKS!

So that Metra wire harness will just plug right into the back of any aftermarket stereo? No soldiering?

Good Info, thanks everyone! Time is certainly of the essence here. I'm thinking I might just go to a local junkyard to see if I can find the same unit. They said if they have it it would be around $25. Seems like it would be a quick swap. On the other hand, having a new unit w/ aux in on the front sounds pretty nice too. I like the sound of this "short conversion harness." I really don't wanna mess around with soldiering a fist full of wires.

So my stereo has slowly been breaking down over the last few weeks as I get ready for a haul by myself from VT->CO. I'm leaving in a weak, and feel like driving that distance alone w/o a stereo is downright unsafe. I've got a 1996 OBW with the premium sound setup (am/fm/tape/cd, 80w Panasonic deal (p114 i think)) So here's what's going on: I use an Ipod. First I used it through my tape deck via adapter. It worked great for years until one day the adapter ejected, and now the tape deck won't let me push in a tape all the way. It gets like 90% of the way in, and then just hits a wall that is completely inflexible (I tried forcing it. Hard.) So, I said screw it, radio still works, I'll just buy an fm transmitter. So I did, and that worked fine for about a week. Yesterday all of the sudden, the radio stopped working. As in, there is no way to get the thing into radio mode. I can, however, still play cds. And what's weird is that I can occasionally hear a faint clicking sound coming from the tape deck. So, I think the radio can't come on b/c the unit thinks the tape deck is supposed to be playing. However, the cd player overrides the other 2, so when thats on everything seems normal. Anyway, I'm thinking the unit is probably toast, and am planning on getting rid of it (unless someone has some trick to fix it) My question is, am I better off trying to find the same stereo at a junkyard, and just swapping them out, or is it a relatively easy job to install an aftermarket head unit. They're like under $100 these days, so if it was a job I could do myself in like an hour I'd probably go for it. I've already tried google and the search here and can't find too much. Anyone got any ideas?

At this point I feel pretty confident that the chart has a typo. So, I guess my main question is: if the numbers on the chart match, does that mean it will work?

Okay, so I've gotten some good advice in the other thread, so I'm gonna go ahead and have this guy put in a new trans for me. Only problem now is finding the right one. My 96 OBW 2.2 has a MFG date of 11/95 and trans # TY752VABCA. This isn't on the chart. However, the one that is listed as the right trans for that model year is listed as "ABBA." Pretty damn close. Seems like a typo maybe? If so, then it seems to have the exact same numbers as the "AAAA" from the 94 outback. I can get the "AAAA" for $150 out of a wreck at a yard up the road, which would be great. Should I do it? Will it work? Thanks!

Thanks twitch, I think I'm gonna go for it with a different guy. A little bit shady, works out of his house, but is willing to do $25/hr labor, and won't charge for more than 7hrs. He also found a transmission for me from a freshly rolled legacy, so I"m thinking about grabbing it. It is Trans # TY752VAAAA. Now, that is different from mine, which ends in ABCA. Unfortunately, the ABCA code isn't on the chart. However, the listed trans for the 95/96 outback seems to have the same gear ratios as the AAAA. Anyone know what the deal is? Will this work?

Thanks for the info. Could a clutch problem have been causing it to slip out of 4th? The problem is that the rear cat is rusted out, so it leaks loudly at the joint where it meets whatever pipe it connects to. That's enough to fail it in VT.

I used to have the same problem on my 96 obw -- the handle would move back and forth with no results. I blasted the crap out of it with PB Blaster a few times, let it soak in for a while and voila, working handle. Only now the trans is shot instead. D'oh!