thealleyboy

Checked my 89 GL turbo wagon with an analog dash. The turbo indicator does come on in the "on" position (though not in "Accessory" position). Knowing the way Fuji does things, I would assume that all factory turbo models can be identified by the dash idicator. Body graphics will give you some clues, but may not be helpful if the car has been repainted. good luck, John

I usually assume the axles are ok unless the boot is ripped. I wouldn't hesistate to chance a used one that passes the "look" test. The one you dissasembled sounds just fine from what you described. As far as interchangebility, the axles are somewhat universal, in that the same part is used in several makes. If the dimensions are the same as the one you remove from the car, you should be good to go. good luck, John

I've seen this in EA82's before, and it does not appear to cause any short-term problems. But I would still attempt to deal with it if you plan to keep this beast around for awhile. Resealing will help if low pressure is your only problem. But from what you describe, it may already be too late. The fact that synthetic oil quieted your lifters down tells me you probably have some internal damage (most likely from low pressure for an extended period of time). Unfortuantely, you'll probably have to address both if you want strong oil pressure and a smooth running motor. good luck, John

NAPA carries a 4-sided tool designed for drain plugs. But it wont do you much good unless you can get the high in the air. Just cant get enough leverage from underneath. I agree with the others about using a 1/2. Unless it has been serviced regularly (rarely the case) the plug will be difficult to move. MAke sure you soak it well with penetrant, and if you are at a safe angle, you might try to heat it up with a propane torch before attempting to remove it. A breaker bar is almost a necessity. good luck, John

Cal: I'll check that out. I could be mistaken, but I thought the "on" position performed a self-check on all the major systems. Good catch, if I'm wrong... John

Another thing to look for is a "Turbo" indicator light on the dash. Every turbo I've ever seen, whether GL10 or GL, digi, or analog, has one. Turning the key to the "on" position will light up all the indicators. good luck, John

BD: The vibration you describe may be unrelated to the turbo system. Try revving while in "P" or "N", and see if the noise is still present. Technically, the turbo motors are probably just as reliable as non turbos. Problem is that it's hard to keep a turbo vehicle within Normal Operating Conditions. Not only is it tempting to run them harder, but the turbo's run alot hotter. Under these harsh conditions, your margin of error is much lower than with a run-of-the-mill EA82. All of the turbo motors I've had have shown (at least) some signs of gasket failure, cracks, or outright warpage. The presence of cracks is probably "normal", but long-term reliability is still debatable once you have them. My best advice: go overboard to keep your cooling system in A-1 condition. Unless your rad is relatively new, replace it now. Also, replace all hoses, t-stat, rad cap etc. Do your coolant flush once a year, always backflush. To a lesser extent, be careful with oil - especially if you have any leaks lose some out the tailpipe. A super hot motor low on oil will overheat too, and can warp those aluminum heads. No matter what your philosophy on oil changes, remember that a turbo is always gonna run under "extreme conditions", so the normal intervals do not apply. good luck, John

Yes, I really like the 2nd edition of HTKYSA. It's not as useful for the latter EA82's, but is a source of excellent Sube-specific information. Another way to get up to speed on these cars is to strip one down for parts. If you take your time dismantling one, and jot down notes in your Haynes (or other manual), you'll have the kind of detailed info you want and need (clarifying info, diagrams, shortcuts - even socket/wrench sizes, wire colors etc). John

Good stuff!! All excellent advice. I'm one of those people that would have those bearings pressed out & in, rather than doing them myself - even though, as described above, it can be done successfully. Too easy to mess up the axle threads, and I don't like the idea of beating on a brand new wheel bearing. As far as the Haynes, I am not as down on it as a lot of people are. It has a fair amount of Subaru-specific information, and only costs around $15 new. But I will say that you should try to suppliement it with other Subaru books, as well as information you'll come across on this Board. When tackling something new, I have found that the best approach is to look at multiple sources (including "general" automotive books), and making an educated guess as to the best way to proceed. The Fugi FSM's are excellent for Sube-specifics, but do not cover fundamantals. You can piece together the basics from the other sources. Unfortunately, there is no definitive "shop manual" for these cars. good luck, John

Vicky: Believe me, I would never underestimate any woman that drives a Sube. More power to ya!! John

VicKy: LOL!! The yuppie rule doesn't apply to chicks. Women can always do what whatever makes them happy. Especially if it means getting DRTY!! John

I've always thought those custom plates are yuppie sh*t. However, I've toyed around with the idea of getting a set for Alleywagon '04. Something like: "ALLEY 04" Nawww...that's yuppie sh*t!! Not appropriate for a Sube!! I think I'll put my signature on the car instead. Winshield, door, tailgate, mirrors - someplace cool... John

Excellent point, and I believe this is true of vehicles of all makes. I know a former fleet manager (now retired), who made a career of maintaining a large fleet of cars. His philosophy was to buy cars new, and follow an aggressive preventative maintenance schedule on those cars until they were no longer physically safe. He would easily get 200K + out of some of the worst POS cars on the road in that era. I'm talking Tempo's, Celebrity's, Reliants and S-10's!! I remember looking thru his maintenance logs, and wondering how in the heck he could actually be saving $$ by putting so much $$ into maintenance. His "secret" was no secret at all: Just follow the manuafacturers recommended service schedule. If anything, err on the side of caution. He swore up and down that the make or manufacturer didn't matter for what he was trying to accomplish (lowest overall cost). His take on Japanese cars was that they were more reliable, but to benefit from this, you would need to wait until the end of a vehicles life. And by that time, the car wouldn't be safe enough to keep in the fleet any longer. Rust was usually what did the Japanese cars in. Since our Subes are so forgiving, it's easy to get a false sense of security and slack off on maintenance. This is a mistake unless the car is on it's last leg, IMO. Change those belts right at 60K, and you'll be fine. Even in an airplane... John

NW: There was another Japanese maker that had the same bolt pattern as the Datsun, but I can't tell you which one. Looks like a Toyota, but I don't think that's what it came from. Izuzu maybe? I still have the rim in my garage, and a good story about it too... Mazda and Mitsubishi definitely had the same bolt patterns for truck tires, and possibly passenger cars. John

Yeah, I couldn't get the correct one at my Advance store. They ordered a "Ready Rad" brand 2-row that wouldn't phisically fit. The manufacturer and part # would be great. John

Stock carpeting is much cheaper, but it is VERY difficult to fit in an automobile. You'll either end up wasting a lot, or you'll have bulges and gaps that cannot be disguised. An exception is cargo areas and trunks. Used carpeting is an option if you are low on $$. If you can remove it without tearing it up, you can probably clean it up enough to re-use. Carpet paint is a "trick" product that detailers use to make stained carpets look good. JC Witney has a good selection of molded aftermarket carpeting, in several colors, but they run around $100. They are not as good quality as OEM, but fairly decent overall. They do require some trimming, and you can screw things up if you are not careful. This is the way to go if you are a perfectionist. good luck, John

Fannie: Yeah, it's easy to get spoiled with an 89. Those are the best of the EA82 lot, IMO. The 4wd (S/R?) Loy isn't bad though. I have a 93, and it's a good solid car. A couple of things I really like about them is SPFI and modern emmissions (as in the 89's) but also the updated interiors. They are notch below the GL's in terms of trim, but I can live with that. Mechanically, they are identical to similar GL models. Same pluses and minuses. Cool that you are rescuing the 89 GL though. good luck, John

They must have not been on long. I don't remember them. Good to know there are some hi-performance Sube guys in this neck of the woods. I will definitely make a point to get aquainted with them, and maybe have them do some of the work I normally send out to my machine shop. This could be an excellent resource. John

Never heard of these guys, and they are right here in my own backyard (OH). I'll hafta check them out in person, and try to introduce them to this Board. John

Bruce: I dont know why actuating 4wd would make any difference, but I had the same symptoms in my 93 Loy. The solution was replacing the rear wheel bearings. I wouldn't jump to that conclusion until you ruled out some other things, but you should consider that possibility. good luck, John

Pete & Ex: Sure sounds like a classic electric choke problem to me. The bi-metallic spring may be binding because of dirt accumulation, and will need to be cleaned. It is also possible that the spring needs adjusted or is actually broken. In either case, you will have to open up the housing to inspect the mechanism. Some of the chokes found on the Hitatchis have riveted housings which require drilling. These can be replaced with screws that thread into the lower housing, and will allow you to adjust the choke. A used electric choke, or manual choke kit is another alternative. good luck, John

If you suspect the mounts, you can verify by crawling underneath the car. They are easily visible, and replacement is not difficult if they are indeed broken. Personally, I've never seen a broken motor mount. I can't imagine what it would take to cause to make one of those bolts snap. It may be that a nut worked itself loose - or was never reinstalled after major service. good luck, John

I'm assuming you have the A/T in your Loyale. First thought is trans fluid. Low fluid could cause it to "jump" or "slip". I would check level and condition. I wouldn't hesistate to do an A/T fluid replacement if you can find a shop that will do it for a reasonable cost. Very likely the problem is minor. I wouldn't think an A/T with only 34K could be going out on you, but I suppose it's possible. good luck, John

Scoob: I don't know the EA81's very well, but on the latter models, the seatback pivots on a mount near the bottom edges. If you remove the lower seat cushions, you should be able to access the mounts. BTW, I like the idea of re-working the cargo area. People used to do stuff like that with vans and station wagons back in the 70's. Even small cars like Pinto's and Gremlins... Make sure you post some pix when you're finished. good luck, John

Blue: I'm sure it's not good for the system, but I've driven cars without the PS functioning. The early 80's GM's came from the factory that way... Since it's on your mind, you may as well go ahaed and fix your problem. It could very well be a leaky hose, or the pump could be out. Either way, it's no big deal. Just fix it. Your Sube will handle much better with PS than without. Your car did not come equipped for manual steering. To bad because this car would have performed just fine w/o power steering. good luck, John