Mikevan10

Would the brake rotors (all four wheels) from a 2008 Legacy GT swap right onto a 2006 Legacy?

Yes, that is what I am trying to say - When I went to remove the hose from that small pipe on the water pump, it broke off where it enters the water pump housing casting and remained in the hose. So now, in addition to the pin hole leak at the other end of the heater pipe (exact same issue as the original poster), I have to replace the water pump.

MUST the driver's side camshaft pulley be removed in order to replace the water pump on an EJ22? If so, I will need to come up with a way to hold the pulley in order to loosen the pulley bolt since I already removed the timing belt. Advice? Thank you very much! Mike V.

I just found out I have a hole in the EXACT same location in that heater pipe on my 1992 Legacy 2.2! I removed the intake system totally to gain "easy" access to the heater pipe. When I removed the hose clamp from the hose that attaches the defective pipe to the water pump, the metal spigot on the water pump broke off and remained in the end of the hose! So now I have to replace the water pump itself, too! Anyway, does anyone (Heartless?)have one of these pipes handy that they want to sell? Call me lazy, but I don't relish the idea of searching for one in a junkyard and then going through all the work (intake removal) to access it. From an ethical standpoint, it would be a shame to dismantle all that stuff and then leave it open to the elements once I have pilidged the motor for this silly little water pipe. And, no, I am not noble enough to reassemble it for protection. Anyone? Thanks, Mike V.

I don't know if this is bad protocol, but I need a replacement center timing belt cover for my 1992 Legacy 2.2. Anybody have one in good shape that they would like to sell? Please let me know if I should not be asking this here. Thanks, Mike V.

Quote: Oil goes through the engine as it's picked up by the oil pickup tube before it gets to the oil filter. Are you kidding me? Please advise where, in the lubrication circuit, the oil filter is located. Thanks, Mike V.

Quote: "Personally, I am not sold on turbo chargers. Sure, the extra power is nice to have when needed, but It is an expensive item to replace, or have rebuilt on a car. When it breaks. I question how many miles a turbo engine will run, before major work needs to be done. It is not an expense I would want to face." Very timely comment! I was just discussing the ongoing turbocharger replacement on my son's 2008 Legacy GT with a co-worker and I expressed that very opinion. As far as passenger cars go, I am still leery of turbocharging. My colleague is an Audi man and he disagreed with me, and I may just be out of step with the times in this regard. But right now being faced with trying to decide whether to attempt a complete engine rebuild or to look for a suitable replacement engine all due to a failed turbocharger (at like 110,000 miles) only reinforces my opinion...

The turbocharger was well and truly destroyed. Shaft broken between turbine and compressor wheels. Pile of filings in bottom of housing. Seems like most of the above mentioned inspections are moot. I would fully expect to find lots of debris in the oil pan and that debris was picked up by the oil pump. Decision time. Why wouldn't the oil filter keep the particles from doing damage to the rest of the engine?

Sorry. I know this must have been covered before but I have not been able to find an answer in a search. Anyway, apparently we need to remove both driver's side cam sprockets in order to remove the water pump? The timing belt has already been removed. How de we hold the cams from turning in order to loosen the sprocket bolts? Will also have to hold cams when tightening back up. Thanks. Mike V.

Thanks jmp. I figured there was a work around. Regarding the exhaust gas temp sensor, doesn't its signal get used by the computer>

Another question: Do any of these turbo cars have an exhaust gas temperature sensor?

Looks like I need to disconnect the engine mounts and lift the engine from above in order to remove the oil pan. Is that correct?

Thanks, I found the fsm.

Oh my god! I had no idea about the collateral damage! So the engine may already be trashed.... OK, can someone please direct me to a manual for the turbo system on this car at least. I need to do some research. Thanks, Mike V.

Would you please elaborate on the bearing issue? Are you suggesting that the main and/or rod bearings may be damaged? If so, please explain the cause of this. Thanks, Mike V.

The turbocharger on my kid's 2008 Legacy GT Limited failed recently. He has owned it from new and it has 117,000 miles on it. He is gathering the parts now and we plan to swap in a replacement unit this weekend. I just thought I would start a thread on this and invite comments anyone may have and I will also update it about the little project. At this point, I believe the replacement turbo will be from a WRX. Be talking to you. Mike V.

Can someone please suggest sources for a timing belt kit for my kid's 2008 Legacy GT Turbo? Thank you! Mike V.

Also, where is the vacuum sensor located?

Thanks again Rooster. So does solving P0440 come down to a sort of shotgun approach? Seems this is a nasty one to overcome.

I just scanned this thread. The original brake problem was pulsations when braking, right? You found sticky caliper sliders and remedied that. And the pulsation is now gone?

OK, here's my recap and suggestions: Filler must enter to of tank because no fuel spilled when I disconnected pipe even though tank was full. The hardest part of the disassembly/removal was getting the hose clamp of the hose that connects the small pipe to whatever pipe it connects to. I removed the sway bar to body clamps to facilitate this but getting pliers on the spring type clamp was a bear. I separated the main pipe from the small pipe to install (I believe this was necessary). I installed the small pipe first. I inserted the main pipe through the hole in the body and then connected the tank hose to it. Getting the hose on was not easy but eventually doable. Connecting the small pipe hose to the spigot on the main pipe required loosening a couple of the hose clamps to gain some freedom of movement. This was tricky due to the orientation of the clamps as received on the new part. Repositioning of these clamps before installing the small pipe would have helped due to the extremely limited access to the hose clamp screws... I recommend looking this over before you install the small pipe. The above is trickier than it sounds. This is a "fiddly" job, to say the least. When I finished I disconnected the battery for about 1/2 hour in hopes of extinguishing the MIL but as soon as I started the car the light remained on. It came on when I cranked the starter and stayed on. So it seems like disconnecting the battery did not work. It's not like the light wasn't on when I started it and then came back on. I would assume that there would be a delay before whatever senses the lack of vacuum or else you would get the light every time you fill the tank. Any suggestions? Thanks, Mike V.

Alright, I think I got it. More later.

Hey, why didn't anybody mention that tis job is a royal pain in the butt! Couple more questions: Do you detach the main filler pipe from the other pipe and install them separately and then, SOMEHOW, connect them back together? Do you insert the main pipe into the hose on the tank before you swing the pipe up and put it through the hole in the body (by the filler cap) or vice versa? It seems like if I insert one end in I then can't get the other end in. I have tried both ways with no success. Any other suggestions? Drop the rear axle assembly???!!!??

Thanks a lot Rooster! I will let y'all know how it goes...

So, you are implying that the filler pipe enters at the bottom on the tank? If so, I'll obviously HAVE to drain the tank. Removing a drain plug sounds like a great opportunity for additional (bigger) problems so I will first see how much I can remove by siphoning... Thanks.