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Oh, I am not sure of the cost, but it isn't cheap. You would have to Chris about that. Pictures and videos of can be found on his FB page. It is what his white forester has.

Its not on his website. The white forester he drives has the suspension though, and its not garbage Hotbits. Its all made in house. 14" of travel in the rear and 12" in the front. I've personally seen him take 2' tall whoops at 45-50 mph and be completely fine. This is one of those lifts not advertised because people freak out about the cost when a ADF lift is 1/4 the price.

You should check out King springs for the rear, they have a lot heavier spring rate than OEM. Also, if you haven't already, you should check out MtnRoo on facebook, and MtnRoo Overland. Lots of guys on there are doing similar things you are, and particularly a company named Subiworks in Temecula, Ca builds long travel suspensions for Subaru and Rally cars.

What are the differences between 82 and 83?

I got the new bars installed. They are amazing. They easily handle the 300LBS of overland gear I carry every day, and only let the back dip about another inch with up to 500 lbs in the back. Rear diff clearance with 300 lbs in the back is at 12" . Flex wasn't hampered at all. These are a great purchase, and greatly improved the ride quality and handling of my Brat. I recommend them for anyone wanting a more firm suspension for any reason.

If you want a set now give them a call, once the 2 prepare sets are gone they will be made to order. Just tell them you want the Subaru Brat torsion bars. Ask for Brian.

So after a lot of work, mailing in a set of torsion bars from my Brat, paying for the initial machine work and engineering design, and a 8 week turn around, I happy to announce that you can now order new torsion bars for your EA81 chassis from Swayaway here in California. They will run $325 a set and will offer you a spring rate that's 20-25% stiffer than stock without loosing any of the rotational limits the stock ones had. Actually, Swayaway claims their bars will out perform the OEM bar in every single matrix, and they're guaranteed not to sag or break. You can check out their web site at www.swayawaycom. They make very high end products. So what does this mean: Better handling, no more having to crank the torsion bars for heavier loads, no more broken torsion bars, better articulation, and a new parts option for our aging suspension. I will be receiving my set this week and will do a comprehensive comparison to place here and on FB. Once I do that and ensure fit and finish is good, Ill update this post with the PN. He made 3 sets, 1 for me, 2 for immediate purchase, and any orders after those will be made to order.

Well thanks for the help everyone. Looks like this is a total no go. Ill put new gaskets on it and save it for my sons 05 impreza OBS. Oh, checked when I got home and its a EJ251 but that doesn't make a difference. Still too high.

11.88 using your chart with 41CC heads and a piston dish of 8. If that's the case, guess Ill have to tune it.

So with the 22E heads what are you coming up with? Obviously I keep punching in the wrong numbers lol Thanks for the help

So the dish is -8 and not +8? I was using +8

If I type in the bone stock numbers for a complete 253 using a +8 piston dome it says the compression is 7.49. I don't think that dome volume is right Bratman. EJ253 is 9.5-10:1 If I use all stock data for a 253 with a -12 dome its 9.25 which is way more realistic. -16 piston (which is what replacement pistons are) is 9.7:1. and that is with stock 253 heads and 0.026 quench. That's pretty realistic as well.

Forged Weisco stock pistons are -16 for the Piston dish. If I plug that number in using my original data than my ratio is 10.5:1 JE pistons are also -16.5

If I use all the same data as before with a 8CC piston dish the compression drops to 8.1 If I use the data you suggested in your first post with my original data than the compression is 7.49

The dome volume is from another site, but even aftermarket upgraded pistons range from -16 to -23 so its all I can go off of. The quench for the Cometic gasket is 0.030. I called them. Why use 50cc combustion chamber? EJ22E single port P1 heads are only 41CC. remember this is a EJ253 (NOT 25D) with phase 1 EJ22E single port heads.

Both rear tail lights and front side markers if they are in good shape. I am in Oceanside.

Here is what I came up with for a EJ 235 with P1 EJ22E heads. This should work. 253 Bore 3.92" 253 Stroke 3.11" 22 Cyl Head volume 41cc 253 Effective 253 dome volume -12.2CC 253 Deck clearance 0.16" Compressed gasket (cometic h1631spk051s) 0.030" 253 number of cyl 4 Compression ratio 10.26:1 total displacement 150.14 in/3 Total displacement 2461.31cc So 10.26:1 is pretty good and certainly not within melting the pistons threshold. A stock EJ 253 is 10.1:1 compression so this is just a tad bit bigger bump with a bit more restrictive head that the 253 came with. Should be good for about 170-180 CHP or there a bouts. I have read on numerous other forums that this engine requires about 30* of timing to run well on at least 91 octane. The EJ22E ECU from what I can tell can pull as much as 34*, so this combo should work out fine.

Ive been doing some reading on 2.5RS and a few other forums and they have decent luck with this set up. weird. Ill try it any ways. Worse case, I'm only out $100 in gaskets, and Ill put my 22 back together.

I am going to bump this, as I have a few questions. I got a good EJ253 (1 blown HG, <100k miles) for free as I am planning on building a frankenmotor. I currently have 96 EJ22 heads (single port exhaust) on my 96 EJ swap in my Brat. I was going to use the EJ22 head bolts, and Cometic H1631SPK051 hybrid gaskets with the 253. Is this a good combo, or should I use another gasket like the Subaru 11011AA770 standard EJ gasket? I will also be getting Delta Cams torque grind. Thanks for the tips

82 Brat DL 5 spd DR w/ Jerrys kit EJ22 with ADF adapter and SPEC stage 3 clutch rear disc brakes reupholstered interior GL dash swap HID head lights full LED conversion 4" ADF lift EA82 front springs clocked torsion bars lowered bump stops PS conversion 6 lug conversion 15" Method Standard wheels 215-75-15 BFG AT TA KO2 Restored Snug top STi Spec C roof vent all new bushings new struts/ shocks new brake lines WALBRO 155 GPH fuel pump Custom 1 piece rear drive shaft JVC head unit with 4 kenwood speakers modified 1st gen A bar Nilight 22" light bar and 2 pods In the works: tube lower control arms and Forester knuckles/ struts/axles, Sway-A-Way rear torsion bars

Just spent the last few days reading this entire thread. Its crazy what all you have done/ been through with this car. The rust you have to deal with is crazy. I am originally from Ohio, but haven't lived there much the past 17 years so I have forgotten how bad it gets with all of the road salt. Its also easy to see how my Brat has survived all these years having lived in Cali its whole life. Nice work on the outback though, your repairs, and mods are impressive. I would venture to guess about all of your problems electrically are related to the corrosion of grounds, especially on body panels. Anyways, keep up the good work. I am excited to see how this turns out with the 6MT swap.

I would love to do it the right way, I just wasn't sure how easily it all came out. Ill bypass it for now and try and get it out later when I take vacation. JIC as it is my daily driver since my son turned 16 and my wife started going to school.

I am not sure if it is brass or not. Ill bypass it for now, take some vacation and try to get it out. There is an old school radiator shop down the street from my house. Hopefully he can mend it. Its beginning to get really hard to keep this ol' girl on the roads these days. Of course it doesn't help I go camping with it I am sure.

OK guys, What are my options here. My heater core is leaking in my 82 Brat, I put stop leak in it for now, but I know that isn't permanent and I should remove it ASAP. Its about to be summer in SoCal which means I don't need to replace it yet, but I would like to before next winter. I have heard an EA82 core fits, possibly find one on Ebay (How good are these? Are they new?), and then there is the struggle of removing it. I really don't want to remove the entire dash since it is in pristine condition. Some of those old plastic pieces like to crack and break. Does anyone have the write up for removing it by cutting the heater box? Lastly, what about the Vintage Air small truck/car HVAC units? Those sell for about $400 with AC (I have an EJ). Thanks for any help.

Let me help a little bit on this. I sold Mark (lgbmarco) the EA81 with weber 32/36 and MSD 6AL ignition as well as a redline fuel pump that came out of my brat when I did the EJ22 conversion. In short, Mark's 1980 Coupe is sweet. Its a "California Edition" which I have never heard of; maybe it was a dealer option? IIRC it has rear window louvers, very unique wheels, and a sweet decklid luggage rack on the back. More importantly is that he kept it covered and being in SoCal it has 0 rust!Its in very good shape. He is an old school, super cool hotrodder, not a vintage Subaru guy. He got a huge run around getting the EA-71 engine rebuilt it came with, and I think it was on the "old school FB group" he came across my engine FS. Other members assured him he could convert his EA71 to EA81 IF he acquired the correct transmission. Mark has been trying to find a EA81 FWD transmission and flywheel for about a year now....maybe more. The guy in Norway he bought the transmission from sold him a 4spd DR EA81 transmission, NOT a front wheel drive. What Mark needs is a EA81 FWD transmission, starter, and flywheel. So if you have those things, please reach out to him or me and lets get one more Suby on the road. Additionally, I have never done this conversion (and will help him), so if anyone has any insight on it, please drop a line. Thanks. -Jason