iluvdrt

The last one did it for me. I dont have a dummy light, so I just didnt connect that wire to anything for now. I plan on installing an ammeter, but I need tolocate a shunt first. Thanks for all the help. I actually got her fired up and running today. This web site is the best for general auto tech.

I have a john deere gator (4x6 3 cyl diesel) I found in the desert (I am currently in Iraq deployed) and I have been trying to get it fixed up. After replacing the trans, and various axles, the wiring harness (self made), and other odds and ends, I need to wire up the alternator. It is a 3 wire type internally regulated (delco remy I believe). The wires are as such 1 big red wire coming from the top, 1 yellow wire and a brown wire coming out of a plug underneath the red one. I know the big red wire goes to the battery, but where do the other 2 go? I believe the yellow one goes to the "run" side of the switch I made, and the brown would go to the ammeter, than back to the battery. I am not sure though. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Wow, looks good man. What TMIC is that and where did you you get your pipes from?

Wow, this build is awesome. I was just thinking "why doesnt someone do a live axle conversion on an older suby instead of worrying about cv's and longer struts". Great job man. I am excited to see the finished product.

You know the guys over on BBs. Legacycentral.org are all EJ22 Gurus. They would be able to help a lot with these builds. I have a P1 EJ25 in my 98 LGT wagon. It has 220,000 miles on the stock bottom end. I auto-x it, and generally beat the poo out of it. It has been a great motor (for the past 70k miles Ive owned it), and wouldnt worry about it blowing up. The reason they break rods is that the rods are weaker than most and people try to boost them or use other power adders (nitrous). In NA form mine has been a great high revving motor.

LOL, I just did a quick search on google and thats what I found. Double posted links mean verified help.

I have done plenty of cars with OBD2 that were 95's. OBD2 was incorperated in 94 with it being federally mandated in 96 for all makes. Subaru wasnt a early one I guess. My bad. I just checked my scanner (Snap-On Solus), and it says to use the MULTI-1 adapter which has 7 prongs (OBD-1) that you just plug in. I would guess it is the grey plug in the picture with the 7 slots for ABS testing through the OBD system. I believe the ABS TCM uses a black 6 prong connector though for just ABS (no OBD engine stuff) here is a link for self testing ABS on Subies. There are 2 connectors appearantly as there were 2 differant systems used. pick your connector style (looks to be the black one) and follow the instructions. Click the use this connector link for either style 23, or 24. http://www.auto-diagnostic-codes.com/ABS-Brakes/Japanese-Korean/Subaru-ABS.html

I have read on NASIOC the EJ22 takes well to boost (better than the 2.5 anyhow), but other than being extremely reliable I dont know much else about that motor.

I just changed mine and used NAPA Adaptive One pads with premium rotors. They work great and have no fade that I have found. Very quiet, and low dust. (I auto x once a month). I used Motul brake fluid as well. I have had them for almost 3 months with 2 races on them. Best pad IMO for everyday use. They are a ceramic inner, and the outer is a blend. Very odd shaped as well. Be careful installing those pads though, they are inner and outter spacific. I think they were like $70 a set. When I was a mechanic we used a lot of pads, and they truely are a get what you pay for item. I would see the autozone duralast and NAPA safety stop pads getting replaced about 2x a year, the nicer (ceramix, adaptive one),NAPA pads and OEM pads were by far the nicest pads to work with. I would rec changing the slide pins, and clips as well. And always either change or machine your rotors.

A good scanner can pull them through the OBD2 connector.

It will bolt up and work. Pretty much any EJ trans will both up to any year EJ engine. Sometimes there are "extra" holes for doul pins vs bolts, but they all work. I think the exception would be a 4 spd auto vs the new 5 spd. It will bolt up but the tcm may not operate it. You should be fine.

They are IHI also.

alleyboy has one too. DR with the ea82T. I love it.

I have a Snap-ON Solus, and love it. It is a windows based scanner that has a built in troubleshooter, as well as TSBs, recalls, and operating specs for every thing from OBD-0 and up. It does trannys, abs, engines, air bags, and chassis. I couldnt ask fo a better scanner, but it was pricey. It also can connect to a PC. It has built in memory to store data as bitmaps, an infra red printer remote, and movie mode capabilities (huge snap shots basically)

edit: would have never guessed that. I was thinking coolant temp sensor.

I love RX;s, I would consider a tradeing my 98 Legacy 2.5GT for one...maybe. Congrats on the numbers!

Most "flushes" include a cleaning additive to "flush" the grime. otherwise it is just a fluid exchange. That is why I said not to do it over 70k. The flush additive(cleaner) will make it leak. My business is also a member of API and MAP. I personally ( and company policy prohibits) and flushing over 70k unless it is documented it has been done before. Fluid exchanges are differant. BTW, I never said who sets the standards. I was basing my experiance on the numerous facilites I have worked at. We will do a fluid exchange, but not a flush on high milage vehicles. My last post was misleading, I am sorry.

Heat it up red hot with a torch, and pound smaller socket onto it than hit it with an impact gun. I beleive they are 21mm bolt heads so a 20 mm will work, you may need to remove the radiator, and plastic covers. Don pry youll just break other stuff and still not get it. You could also try the starter method. it almost always works. Seriously, I would take it to the dealer, and pay the 80$ to have it removed rather than tearing up more stuff.

no, I havent. It may be something to consider. I am just trying to get a little more umph.

I was planning a FMIC, not a TMIC in order to make the best from the EJ25 mainifold. I am not planning this to only take a week, I am sure Ill have to make a few adjustment here and there. If I were to use a EJ20 block heads, and I/M than I might as well call this a WRX swap and change everything over, have the harness merged and use a WRX PCM. That would defeat the purpose of my "cheap" build. I have $500 in this now and all I need is a EJ20 block,cross member and S-AFC. Everything else I already have.

I am going to keep my heads because I know my mainifold, and cam sensors, and such will bolt up. I am trying to avoid as much re-wireing as possible. As far as my heads go they are getting a P+P, new springs, 3 angle valve job and seals. I think they will be fine until I need more power. I am only shooting for 300 crank HP, which will be low boost, and easily attainable. Basically I want to keep up with my buddies EVO (stock) and have a little more umph on the highway. I am not trying to build a 450 awhp beast.

You are right, but it will be boosted and professionally tuned, so C/R's are really not my to big of a concern..especially lower ones. Thanks for all of the insightful info everone.

The BG 44k fuel induction cleaner is A LOT differant than your STP cleaner, and is applied differantly. My company uses Everware, but is basically the same product. It is much more caustic, and cleans better. STP treatments are mixed with gas, and diluted. The BG 44k and such is applied directly through the throttle and not only cleans the injectors, but the vales and cylinders as well. In fact you have to add an oil stabilizer to help stabilise the engine oil. It is worth the money, but only if you change the fuel filter as well. I am sure you have heard of seafoam...it too is another brand of F/I cleaner. The main problem with the do it your self-ers is it is applied to rapidly, thus fouling out the plugs, and drowing the engine. A proper F/I cleaning should take about 35-45 min, and little to no white smoke should come out. Tipically, on high milage vehicles, you should see about a 15% increase in fuel economy with changing the fuel filter, and cleaning the throttle bore. A very nice service to be had considering the price of gas. It is usually reccomended every 15-20K miles. As far as tranny fluid is concered, it is best not to mix fluid brands( although they all have to meet or exceede gov standards). The "universal" flids are good-to go, because they contain additional suppliments, and detergants. The only real problem with them is occasionally on certain vehicles(those requireing ATF instead of Dex) is that they have to have friction modifiers added in in order to be compatible due to certain tolerances in the trans. Same goes for "multi-vehicle" coolant. The problem on higher milage vehicles with original fluid is that trans fliud is very detergant based, and when a complete flush is performed a lot of the dirt is later cleaned out causing leaks. Usually anything over 70k shouldnt be flushed (unless it has been done before), and most places will refuse to do it.

Shaking is NOT from alignment..its a big misconception. 2x a year to get the the manufactirer milage warrenty. Tires are expensive and most places will check it for free...why not have it checked. I dont know about you, but if I have a 60k tread life warrenty I want all 60K.

I plan on using the heater hoses...something about dumping super heated turbo coolant into a head bothers me.....plus my heater will be super hot. Thanks for the info.