iluvdrt

Will EJ25 DOHC N/A heads fit on a WRX EJ20 block? Just curious, I am trying to do a cheap (respectively)turbo conversion while maintaining my stock harness. I plan to run a piggy back s-afc to help tune it. My ride, 98 Legacy GT wagon Thanks, -Jason

FYI NAPA will press you new bearings for 35$ per hub...something to keep in mind since hub tamers are generally expensive and you may use them only a few times throughout your life time unless your a pro mechanic.

I work at a national tire dealer, and deal with tires every day. tire rotations are reccomended every other oil change or 2x a year based on the average 12-14,000 mile driveing per year. When you rotate them you should also have the balancing checked. 3 most common problems for shortened tire life is not rotating, not balanceing, and alignments. alignments should be check 2x a year as well.

I dont auto cross my car, I dont need that much negatiive camber, I was just looking for a more stable ride. I wasnt aware that with subys as the suspension travels it turn the cabmer positive with compression. Most cars do the opposite...wierd. anyway here is my alignment printout. I did the the alignment on a hunter alignment machine at work. As far as tires go, I am currently running Yokohama Avid V4s "V" rated..they are OK.

-2.0 degrees negative camber in a 98 lego GT would eat tires faster than the store could ship them. the max factory limit for specs is -0.7 front and -1.6 rear. I do daily drive this car. I want my tires to last 45-55k. I still disagree with your theory on lowering car. By what your saying, if it were true, than raising the car would improve the handling instead of lowering it. (am I getting that right?) Why would lowering my car with a set of STi struts be a bad thing. the way I see it is: the higher a vehicle is the wider it must be in order to be stable. On the flip side the lower it is, the wider it doesnt have to be. If you take a wide and tall vehicle, than lower it, you now have a low and wide vehicle. That will have less body roll,and better steering responce, with better handeling. With a lower car there are less forces being excerted on the suspension and body during a corner, than on a higher vehicle. Lower cars perform and handle better than higher ones.

05' rear struts bolted right on it. I saw the car at the junkyard, door panel said 0904, which is early model STi. Fronts did with some minor mods to the brake line tab, and the tabs for the ABS wire. Camber is not affected with a proper alignment. All I neded was a MAGNA 14mm camber bolt in the front, and a MAGNA 12mm camber bolt in the rears. Bingo, camber is spot on (Fronts:-0.5 degrees, rears: -1.2). Lowering the car also lowers the center of gravity, and decreases the "roll over point" in which the body roll causes the tires to break their point of adhesion and causes a slide (roll over). If a suspension is designed to travel in spacific distance, than it isnt a big factor in how low the car is. Its when people buy lowering springs, and use them on stock struts, that suspension problems happen.

You said you had your timing belt done about 5000 miles ago. Would it be possible one of the cams has jumped a tooth? 1 tooth off on the right intake/exhaust cam wouldnt throw a code, and it would make the car run like crap.

I am sorry, I thought you were insinuating I was a poor driver when you said " You could have been doing 50 coming out of the curve on the correct line (auto or 5spd)..." and " Road rally's make you an expert driver now-a-days? :confused: ". The one that got me was, " And going into a curve at a certain speed doesn't really say a whole lot. You could have been doing 50 coming out of the curve on the correct line". I drive my cars VERY hard..., My buddy has an EVO IX, That I regularly ride/drive in. While driving the EVO, I took that turn at almost 75mph, on snow tires, and it didnt budge. When I exited that turn in my Lego, I was doing 65, with the pedal floored. It wasnt sliding...much, but the body roll was scary. Now I know you cannot make a Legacy handle better then an EVO. But when he and I are "spirited" driving on backroads, I would like to not over push her limits. . Very useful. Here is what I did. I got front 05 STi struts and springs, and replaced my rear springs with the rear STi set I had. (the rears were the inverted real STi struts. A quick call to Subaru with a PN declared that.) So now I have all four struts STi and springs, with tops. It lowered the car about 2", and although I had to get a camber kit, it made a HUGE differance. The car feels much more stable, and has much less body roll. I think that is the feel I was looking for. I also think it looks very sporty lowered. Thanks to eveyone, and sorry about the mixed up drama. It happens, especially on the internet( no emotions/body language to express tone of speech).

I never said it did make make me an expert. Try not to get into an "E" driver skill match. If you dont know the answer to my questions than, at least try and be constructive in the thread instead of deconstructive. I have an auto which makes it very hard to compression brake. The 4eat is a dog. You should be seeing the back half of that curve which means I am not sliding off of the road, I am finishing an apex. I just have that much body roll. jamal, Thanks for the help as well as the advice. I will change my springs around and balance out the struts with a complete set. I only had $75 total in the 4 new ones I had, so no big loss.

Yeppers, the HG is still blown, I have that one under control though. I have 2 options, I am considering. The springs that are on the struts are what came with them. Stock WRX front, and stock STi rear. The struts are just the KYB struts (even the STi), I think they are equivelant to KYB GS2's I know my car has a sway, bar, I was thinking bigger, and I guess endlinks would help as well from reading. I know how to drive, many a road rally's I have been in, the major thing is, is the auto trans it still has, it is not responcive enough for spirited driving. Which is why the 5 spd is going in. I was in the curve at about 55 mph. It is a 25 mph curve. I know it is a wagon and wont handle as good as a sedan, but I can make it better than what it is.

I have way to much body roll in my wagon. It causes some nasty understeer. Aside from struts (which Ill get into in a minute), what is available (fits) my wagon to help. It is a 98 GT Limited BTW. What Ive done so far is replace the struts . Fronts recieved new WRX struts and springs, the rear has recieved New STi struts and springs( not the inverted ones). could the differant combo cause this? Have : WRX front struts and springs STi rear struts and springs 205/55/16 Yokohama V4S "V" rated tires What I am planning: 17x8 JDM 17" GTB BBS wheels 225/45/ZR17 Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S tires "Z" rated What I am curious about is: Swaybars: are they available End links: do they really help? control arms: do they exist, and would an afetrmarket set help?

(No help at NASIOC) OK, my HG is blown and I can not drive her very much longer than I have or I will risk loosing my heads to the heat. It is time for a rebuild. Here is what I am considering, I need some insight as to what would be the most benificial for my driving style. I mostly just do some auto x ing and maybe some open class rally. Really, I just to like to find an open country road in the back woods, and do some spirited driving. (go ahead and flame you do it to). I have read the faqs, and I have done the research, now I just need some feed back. What I have. BG5 98 GT wagon auto 2.5 GT DOHC What I am doing regardless.. WRX (later model) 5 spd rear diff conversion What I am wanting to know: Option 1 Go N/A, delta cams grind (220), TB spacer, underdrive pulley, shaved heads, ARP studs, valve job, P&P, new valve springs, CAI, Exhaust (2.25 seems to be about right). Option 2; Get a Ver 7 short block (sti), injectors, and fuel pump, use my EJ25 N/A heads, ARP studs, TD04 turbo (stock WRX), S-AFC, and of course the basics CAI, Exhaust, etc, with a front mount. Basically with the short block, I want something I can just plug in, I dont want all of the headaches of wireing. I figure if I use my heads, the wireing will be a lot easier. I am shooting for 250-300whp turbo, and 200 if I go NA. My main question is, is how dependable is the STi block with NA heads? What are the differances other than the flow rates, variable valve timing, and larger valves (I am not sure on that one). If anyone can shed some light on this, I would appreciate it, I am beginning the rebuild/swap around the middle of Jan, and I need to know what I need to buget for it. Thanks, for any thoughts/ info

OH, the projector head lights are just sick I hear. (They look sweet too!)

Looks nice.

LOL, I moved to Pa, and took pics on vacation while in Fl. Fogs were definatly not a direct fit. Seriously about 9 hours labor involved...more if you dont have the wireing already there.

I had a problem like you. Spent over $2k trying to fix it. Ended up being the groud between the distributor and head. Basicall take the distributor out, and clean off the two mating surfaces, especially the head surface. do a search for some of my "engine miss" threads. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47735 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45931 Also the ignitor grounds out to the body, sometimes they get corroded inbetween the two (body, and ignitor body) and you loose that ground. I would check those first.

Yep, about an hour away. I am down for a GTG, I need about a week in advance to plan it around my work schedule

Yes, definatly. I have been wanting to get with some more suby owners. I was in a "club" on the internet in Ohio, we used to meet once a month...it was fun.

They were taken in Daytona, Fl over the weekend.

Heres my 98 Lego Wagon GT, and my newly installed JDM Koito fogs. I love the projectors, they are bright. I am getting the JDM headlight projectors and the Legacy "L7" grill as well. updates soon.

170,000mi on mine with a 2.5 and shes holding up fine....better than the engine. it does shift kind of hard into second. What I hate though is no "sport mode" (its very slow to downshift, and cannot keep up with spirited driving sescions). and it deffinatly needs an O/D. Not sure about: It feels like there are more gears when climbing hills, it half downshifts.

With any luck. I may have to install the 5 spd WRX trans due to not knowing how the stability control, and traction control work (mine not haveing it, and the STi of course does.). I think that may get very expensive changeing ABS systems, and hubs/brakes.

I dont know if will handle the boost from a VF-39, unless you turn the waste gate down with a MBC. I mean 7 lbs out of our stock turbos is not nearly as much volume as 7lbs out of a VF39.

...... - - - - nevermind.

check the hoses connecting to and under your turbo. Ill bet one of them, or the tiny ones under the intake manifold have blow. water pump is fine I bet.