iluvdrt

LOL, I know, especially with those tube buggies. It'll have 3' of original frame, and the grill, and be called a 1942 FJ-40.

I am down with it. It would definatly be the most off road capable subaru out there. Lockers front and rear, a v-8, big tires...who cares if the drivetrain isnt stock. Its the body I like.

87 and 88 wagons both do not run. Thank god for my Ford Probe. Best car I have ever had really.

Sounds like your MAF sensor is bad, and when you unplug it the ecm goes into limp mode which keeps it running at idle.

I had this same problem in my 87 GL10 Turbo wagon. Do a search for my threads. Your problem is, the coil you buyfrom the auto store is the wrong coil. It is an external resistor coil, and is not matched to the ignitor in your subaru. The factory subaru coil assy is an internal resistor coil polarity matched to the ignitor. when you change one out, it looses the signal from the ecm, and you loose spark. Now for the even worse part. The auto store coil fries your ignition circut completely. Distributor, ignitor, and ECM. In short your car is dead in the water. You have to find a matched factory ignitor/coil assy from either another MPFI or SPFI, distributor, and the exact ECM serial number for your car and replace them. I have been going through this process for about 2 months now. I spent A LOT of money to have my 87 towed to a dealership with one of the top 5 Subaru mechanics in the USA (Certified Subaru mechanic since 1978), work on my car. Being as how you cannot get the original ECM anymore my car is uselessly sitting unless I can source one from the junk yard that is in good shape. All of this may be true unless your timing belts broke, or your dizzy went out (I hope for your sake, because my car is toast).

It works with the JDM intake and everything, you just have to swap things around a bit. I have been driving this car for 2 years with the JDM engine swap prior to this issue. The wireing is different, but I changed over the connectors without spliceing, and everytrhing hooked up. The MSD ignition has been gone for some time. I just need to update my sig...my bad. But it was coil, ignition box, and wires. new job is in Harrisburg Pa.

Well that is what I thought as well. As t appears though, I am not going to have to buy the new one, so I am just paying for labor. Either way after working on it for a month and getting no where, I am glad it is making some progress. It has regular spark now.

It appears the coil needed is a internal resister coil...auto zone gave me an external resistor coil, so I had the wrong coil assy...so far. The mechanic said he got a used one dropped it in and now he has regular spark. No word on the running or not yet. I find out tommorow.

Hey Ed, it sounds like your wires are not connected up all of the way on the injectors, and you still may be off a tooth on the dizzy. If you had to advance it all the way in order to get it to run, than it isnt right. I have made this mistake a dozen times, and when frustrated it becomes more of a PITA to fix. I mean hell, I said F-it and took mine to the dealer. As far as bypassing the charcoal cannister, one of the steel lines only pulls vacume when the engine is revved, one pulls constant, and I have no idea what the third is for. I might have a pic of how I did mine. loop the first two together, and plug the third. 1st one is closest to the pass side.

I would still have to pay for it because it has to be ordered. Yes, I checked the timing, and the tech even said it was correct. The tack wouldnt do anything because the coil isnt fireing. The dizzy has been changed 3 x now. The problem isnt that it just isnt starting, it is not getting any spark from the coil period. No spark from coil=no spark to dizzy. When I swapped in the new ecm it started sparking, but it was irregular, here a spark there a spark...it was almost like the ecm wasnt paying attention and just saying "spark" when ever it felt like it. I dont have much moret ime to mess with it. I have a new job starting on Dec 10th, and have to move 4XX miles away. So I am almost forced to shell out the big bucks to get her running. My 88GL spfi is in no shape at all to make that trip.

Anyone? Does anyone know this question. I have heard this before, but with everyone changeing their coil's I dont think it can be true.

OK, so after months of troubleshooting I finally broke down and dropped my 87GL10 off at the dealer for a no spark/intermittant spark prob. He (the mechanic) is saying that I need to buy a $300 coil assy to get this thing running because the Ign amplifier and the coil are a matched set, and the brackets I am getting from the junk yards are no good. Does this sound right, or am I getting ripped? Supposedly he is one of the top 5 suby mechs in the country and has been with subaru since 1978. to see my troubleshooting thread go here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45931&page=1&pp=10

I have freed up locked up engines by pouring Coke into the cylinders, and letting it sit over night. Than getting it out and squirting some WD-40 or PB Blaster into it. The acid in the coke eats the rust away. Seriously. No one ever really thinks about how bad soda is for you. I dont drink it because it frees up rusted engines....seriously.

so is it done and installed yet? How is the leg doing? feeling normal now?

Wow, those are beautiful pics. I love the mountains in the background. Were you by yourself? If so I would have been a little worried about getting stuck, or stranded.

Wierd. Mine never had a "limp Mode". If I lost a major sensor it died. Including the coolant sensor. If it did have a limp mode than disconnecting the maf shouldnt really do anything. If it had a bad maf it would just bypass it anyways. I am tired of messing with it. I am taking it to the dealer any ways. Winter is coming up and I dont want to be outside swapping parts or messing with a fluke meter. Ill bring this thread back when they figure it out.

I am pretty sure the timing is OK. I know they wont run without a maf, Mine used to shut off immediantly when I unplugged it. I dont have a clue what the backfireing is about...it is bad. I am just going to bite the bullet and take her into the dealer. I have no real testing equipment, nor the time to keep messing with it. I have to get her running very soon as I am moving. Thanks to all who have helped.

No worries. That number was from stuff to droop. I sent you the info for the axles. Their measurements is from ground level to full droop(7"). Both ways would be about 14". I managed almost the full 26" before they came out, or bound up. I actually had to put a limiting strap on the front when I went wheeling. Pre running I took the axles off, and got the full 26". With the axles I think it was around 19-20" stuff to droop. You may also want to check out Total chaos (sp?) they have some wicked long travel kits pre made. I would go that route instead of making my own next time. Or SAS.

I did have almost $30K into that thing. Check out prerunner.net, and see how much those guys get. Why do all of the score outlaw trucks run IFS? My specs. Custom Lift made from Downey.(almost $5000) Tubular control arms shaved bump stops Bilstein 9100 shocks front 26mm torsion bars slip yoke cv axles with Spicer 1450 u-joints heim joints on the tie rods heim joint ball joints bigger drag link custom idler arm-$200 5.29 gears-$600 installed marlin crawler t-case 4.7:1 low range- $1400 lockrights F+R- $550 ctm u-joints in all driveshafts-$700 driveline 1 driveshafts- $300 all pro offroad bumpers-$375 all pro t-case x-member-$250 warn x8000I winch-$850 all pro offroad driveshaft brake-$350 LC Engineering stroked and built 22re-$4500 jacobs Ign-$500 Borla exhaust-$ 275 Downey rear springs with heim joint shackles-#700 doestch 36" travel shocks, with remote resevoirs-$500 KC daylighters -$150 110amp alt-$200 optima yellow top-$150 I can keep going. I have full documentation. I had about 5 grand in the stereo and GPS inside the cab as well. I spared no expense building this truck.......I am still paying for it. Fact is I know I had. I no longer have the truck it was totalled. From stuff to droop, the front had 26". This was a rockcrawling built suspension. Front-26" Rear 34". If you dont believe me, your loss.

I thihnk the poll is refering to say like open all the trails that have already been closed. Not make our own, and destroy everything.

OK well, Here is what is going on. code 23. I have spark, I have fuel (which is evedent by the cannon sounding backfires while cranking). I replaced the maf with another one, still same code. What options do I have at this point to figure out the maf? Are there any ground wires to be weary of, hoses, additional connectors, that would make this sensor cause a fault code?

OK, I tried the other ecu, and it eleminated almost all codes, except the code 23 maf sensor. I put in 2 different sensors, and it still has it. Does anyone know how to test the circut for a maf sensor? I dont have my fsm's with me. I forgot them at home.

OK, I swapped out the ecm with anopther ecm from another 87 wagon. I have spark now, it is in time, and it still wont start. It is still showing codes 11,13,23,32,33,51,and 4? . WTF? How can that be possible?

John, I will be over Sat morning. I thought of something else last night while sleeping. I know if the alt is unplugged it subarus will not start. What if the diode in the alt is fried and its simulating the alt is unplugged? Would that cause a no-spark situation?