iluvdrt

It has 4 volts. Everything wireing wise is OK now. I am thinking the ecm went down the drain. I bought the car with a "spark problem". I will check the links. I tested them, and they all had voltage going through them. I will replace them anyway. With the green connectors connected, the fuel pump does cycle, and it also cycles if you manually turn the distributor body back and forth(as if you were adjusting the timing). As far as timing belts, I dont have timing belt covers, so I can see the belts, they are new. I have pulled out all fuses and checked them. They are ok. I even went and replaced the ign fuse just for GP. I was a Subaru mechanic about 8 years ago, so most basic things I have already been through. I think this is more advanced, but keep them coming any way. Usually the attention to detail things is what screws you.

I am thinking the ecm is bad.

Yes, I fixed the ground. I also made an aditional ground for pin 20 on the ecm. 2 things here that werent mentioned yet. 1) I acidentally grounded out the coil troubleshooting a bad spark problem( the prelude to all this). 2) the car has had a bad ignition problem since I have owned it(3 years). Black smoke, missing, low power, symptoms of a bad connection on terminals 7, and 8 I think. I think when I accidentally grounded out the coil, it fried the circut in the ecm, because thats when it actually quit running. Before it ran, just horribly bad...and even that was intermittent. Keep in mind, the car has been very well cared for, and all general maintenaces have been performed early, and with only the best parts.

I have changed it about a month ago out of a running car. I am way beyond that in my quest for an answer. Thanks though. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45931

Yes, I love my ea82T....what a P.O.S. EA81 fo shizzle is the best.

I am currently battleing this same problem. If I get it figured it out, I will let you know.

I am currently driving a 88 SPFI, I could swap those off it and put them onto my 87. The connectors are the same.

The dizzy, and amplifier, but they came off of a running car.

Ok for some time my 87 gl10 ea82t has had no spark. I have been working on it for ever and nothing. I changed out the dizzy, coil, and ignition amplifier only to achieve nothing. The other I checked the codes on the ecm and it showed code 11 (no referance pulse from the crank angle sensor). I proceded to follow the steps to find my problem in the FSM's. It said I needed a harness. I pulled the entire chassis harness out and checked every wire with a multimeter. It is ok. Here is what I have with the key "on" 12 volts going to ECM, Dizzy, and coil. (plug 7 on ECM) ground has continuity across harness, but not to chassis(possible problem(plug 20)) 4 volts on plug 8 and the other 4th wire it said I didnt have to check, but I did anyhow and have continuity. So what I am thinking is the plug going to the dizzy(crank angle sensor) has a bad connector. I am planning to wire in my own connectors there, and also make a new ground for terminal 20 on the ecm (black wire with a red stripe). That should provide a good connection and a positve ground for everything on that circut. Today, I did the above mentioned and re-checked the ecm codes. All it does is flash 1......1.......1........1...basically its emissions set up (01 49 states non-cali). which tells me everything is ok. I timed the engine, installed and double checked everything, even through in another new coil. Still no spark. Can someone please shed some light on this.

A Mustang Dyno in NC I went to. Stock EA82T had 109 Hp and 126 Tq lbs. JDM version had 137 HP, and 146 Tq lbs at 6800 rpms. This was all stock too. Sadly this was about 3 years ago though. Of course it may be largely due in part the JDM engine had 30,000 mi, and the Stock, US engine had 130,000. Still I dont think it would loose 30 HP as at the time of the dyno run, both were running great.

I had an JDM EA82T in my 87. I paid $750 shipped. It had about 30, 000 mi on it. Ran awesome...until my ecm poo'ed. Be warned though. They are not direct drop in engines. The engines are set up for right hand drive, so you'll have to carry over all of the vacume ports and such. In my case I have to change the injector connectors as well as they were different. Well worth the money. I believe they also make about 20hp more than the USDM versions. At least thats what the dyno said.

I pulled a fully loaded(furniture) dual axle enclosed U-Haul trailer in my 87 gl10 turbo 660 miles from Fl to NC. I could only go 55-60 the whole way. The trailer weighed 9000 lbs apx.

Well, the guy with the Dodge paid $345, and a guy with a nice old Porsch paid $425, so maybe they had the same prob. I dont know, but I am on board.

Has anyone ever tore down a USDM EA82T vs a JDM ea82T? My reason is, is before my ecm took a poo, my JDM engine pulled harder, and way higher(all the way to 8000 rpms), where as the USDM version pulled only to about 6300. Also, the "rump roast dyno" said the JDM version was making wayyy more power. I am wondering if the injector size, and cam profiles are different from one another. I know my JDM engine had black injectors, and I think my USDM engine had blue.

Postted for the subscription. I forgot to do it last post.

I am very interested in this deal. Alothough for 3 sets it was only like $350 a set, that isnt so bad really. I know lots of people who run arp studs and they paid way more than that. I ma subscribing. I want to know. I mean if you got a copper HG, studs, and maybe counter bored the block with a steel o-ring, these engines could handle probably 30-40 psi of boost....until the heads crack, of the bottom end pretzles. I know its apples to oranges, but I have friend with a cummins dodge engine who had the copper gasket, counterbore, and studs done. He is hitting 115 psi of boost, no problems.

I am down for an EA82 lift if we dont work anything out by then.

Well thats the way Yoters are. Mine had 34" of travel in the rear and 26" in the front with IFS. HOWEVER that is compareing apples to oranges. Subaru's have Mcphereson struts, and are greatly limited on wheel flex because of this. It takes a lot more money to get flex out something like that.

Nice pics, and car. I love the pics, they are very scenic and enjoyable. Nice job.

LOL, I agree. I think thats why I did so well in my toyota when I had it. Experiance from wheeling subarus.

Well it is nicer to have it in the front, HOWEVER, in most other offroaders the front hubs "unlock" to prevent blown axles. Subarus dont. You will not be able to turn, and you will blow axles like its cool.

A burried RX 2 full size blazers and a 2wd s-10 burried up to the floors.

The reason I am not doing an EJ swap is Money. I can get a carbed motor cheap, it will bolt right up to my D/R tranny, and they are a dime a dozen in the junk yards. EJ's and MPFI engines are not. So I guess it is a little more complicated than just dropping it in, changine the fuel pump/exhaust, and wireing up the coil/alt?

Is it possible (easy) to take out an EA82T and replace it with an EA82 carbed motor? I am just wonder what would have to be done. I am just sick of the electronis in my 87 turbo wagon. I want something simple and reliable. Thanks.

OK, some rump roast wipe out bid me. My bid was 25$, and theirs is higher. Screw that.