iluvdrt

Here is my 87, and my dads 06 forrester.

Here is my 05 contribution. My 87 gl10 Turbo. My Dads 06 Forrester with about 350 miles on it.

Cool, maybe we can get a group buy in.

Bump for info on the C/O's.

So is that something we need to contact Bilstein about, or Who?

I would like to know about the coil overs as well.

Not a prob.

The bevel goes on the bottom, of the middle ring slot on the piston, and is the compression ring. It is beveled to allow for "collecting" of the oil it is scrapping off of the cylinder wall. You want all of the rings to have a perfect 90 degree flush surface when mating with the top of the cylinder. The symetrical ring doesnt matter because it is the compression ring. The oil ring should be wierd looking and it goes on the bottom. Make shure you space the gaps out, in other words dont line up all of the gaps from the rings in the same place or you will have some sick blowby, possible even no compression.

Yes, I mean 1,3,2,4 right. the 1st cyl on the pass side, than the second cyl on the pass side, than the 1st cyl on the driver side, followed by the second cyl on the driver side. Rotor turns counter clock wise.

Yes, the screw is there. all of the hoses are hooked up, I never removed any except the pcv hose, and its good. Will the coolant sensor wire go on either way, and will it affect the sensing properties? I will keep messing with the TPS. It started a minute ago, but floored barely ran, when I jumped out to grab the throttle cable real fast it died. Hasnt started since. When I did change the sensor I did shoot some cleaner into the socket for the sensor to clean it out. Do you think may have some thing to do with it?

OK, I was doing a basic dizzy tune up (rotor cap) and some plugs (EA82T). Now it wont start. I compared all of the parts to the originals, and they match. I have checked spark, and it has it, I got the fireing order 1324 rotating counterclock wise (looking at it) with the number one just to the right of the screw, timing was never messed with...HOWEVER... I did notice the TPS was loose and I bumped it. Although I dont think that would make it not start, I tried to position it back in the middle. I also changed the coolant temp sensor. What could make it not start? I did clean the throttle out with some cleaner, could it be flooded? I only put like a few short squirts. Even if it was, I have been cranking on it for about 45 min(not continuously), I would think that would clear it out. All of the injectors are hooked up, it basically sounds like it isnt fireing, unless I mix up the plug wires, than it sounds like it is, but it doesnt run(obviously). Thanks to whom ever can help, I am in the garage right now, with my wife calling me to get home. I need help. God I feel like such a tard.

Thanks, we were wanting to continue to paint the alt brackets, and ps stuff, but I really wanted to get her running that night. We only had about 12 hours to get the car, build the engine, and drop it in. I think with a little more paint and some fabbed brackets to hold the wires and stuff, itl look pretty mean.

Any time mang. I hope it will go the rest of the way just as smooth. To bad I didnt get a pick of the cops yelling at us to shut it off. LOL, silly noise violation. Dont they know high performance cars are loud.

This is exactly how I feel. Besides if no one contacts them about "old school" events they will never know where/when to shoot some old stuff. I think Subysport is doing a great job, I renewed my subscription.

Looks, darn good. I like the flat black, and the head lights. Reall sweet car dude. I hope you can really do it like that.

So, after a few weeks of trying to get into contact with its owner, I was finally able to save another suby. Alleyboy is its new owner now for $200, and here is its story. The suby which now has a home is a 87 Gl wagon 5 spd, d/r wagon with an EA82 engine. Here is how I found her: she sat here for 2 years. The owner said she had a bad rod knock. So after we got here home and started her up, we confirmed it did have a bad rod. John had a nice 82 short block to swap in, so we began the swap. On the way home In the garage the blown engine The removal The new short block The intake I cleaned up for John(Alleyboy) de-emissioned of course. The new engine ready to go After the engine hoist took a poo, we had to muscle in the new engine. Here it sits all bolted up tothe tranny. Almost ready... After 7 hours of work, the new engine purring like a kitten. The cops came and made us shut it down because it was to loud. We didnt put plates over the EGR pipe holes on the head due to time restraints. Upon further inspection, the car has a bad wheel cylinder in the rear(disc brake conversion soon), and it idles really high. I am not sure why so if someone can shed some light on that that would be nice. She idles about 2k. There is only 1 vacume hose going to the carb, so I think maybe the carb needs another hose hooked up somewhere to make the low idle circut work. Any help from those who have de-emissioned cars would be nice. The PCV system isnt hooked up yet, could that be the problem? All of the vacume ports, and EGR valve have plugs, so I know it doesnt have a vacume leak. I ma thinking we just need to hook a few lines in the right spot to make the high idle kick down. Thanks.

If you want to see well a Subaru will last, or drive visit the Mileage thread here on the board, and the offroad thread to see the abuse they take. How many impalas have you heard of with 200,000-300,000 miles on them? My Subaru just turned 220,000 miles. It has had one blown head gasket, a couple bad coolant sensors, and other than that just routine maintenance done to it. Domestic cars in general are way behind on technology, heavy, depreciate fast, and are unreliable for the most part. Imports are way more dependable and it shows in their resale values, agile, assembled with better parts, and built to last, and have the latest engine technology developed into them. Subaru has been building AWD boxer platforms for the better part of a 1/4 century. They got it right, and most dealershipd I have been to treat you more like your buying an exotic import, than just a subaru. My Suby is almost 20 years old, and if I ever have to go the dealership for anything, I am always treated as if she was a new car. When I had my old Ford truck, I couldnt get the time of day at a ford dealership. In short Subaru>*

Will the 5 lug hubs bolt right on w/o the struts? I can get some 5 lug hubs right now. I was going to send mine to a machine shop to get drilled out. and redrilled to the new style lug pattern. I guess that means the XT6 wheel pattern is the same as the newer models.

I dont have either, it bogs my computer down to much. I have a huge hard drive, but for now a small processor. I need to upgrade to a Pentium 3 or 4. Celeron is the suxorz.

Can you im me or tell me here how you installed the hood scoop, I will be installing a wrx hood scoop in about 2 weeks, and want it to look as clean as yours. BTW, the wrx wheels look alot better than the others. Nice ride.

I am not happy with the stock plumbing ether, but I think it can justify not spending about $100-150 just to change the intake and Maybe gain 3-5 hp.

So I will need the part with the injectors. I wonder why, fuel line routing maybe? Then what put my turbo injectors into the spot for the spider intake injectors. This mod better be worth it, this is a lot of time and money it seems like. I mean seriously, how much of a gain can be expected from this?

Also I need to know soon, as Ill be installing my WRX TMIC and BOV soon. I think this would be a sweet addition to the TMIC and higher boost pressures.

OK, Do I need to get the part with the injectors or no. I already have the MPFI set up (turbo) so all I should need is the actual intake, and throttle body. I know Ill have to make a spot for the coolant return off of the turbo, and get the pitch control rod for the intake as well. Do I need to get the injectors and everything for this to work, or no? Please help.

I recently gained the oppertunity to get a Spider intake. My question is, is will it bolt onto the turbo heads, and will my throttle body work with it, or should I get the throttle body that it comes with. Thanks. My car is a turbo EA82T the intake is on a 88 N/A EA82 XT