iluvdrt

I get a lot of responces from the new crowd with my ea82t gl10. They also laugh at the spare tire, but even I think that is funny. The honda kids are the ones that think it is the poo. They can't believe that it has a JDM turbo motor in it and they all insist I swapped it in there from a wrx or something. Even though I tell them it is a stock motor from japan from this very car, they don't believe me. They also think it is fast, until I let them ride in it(darn fuel cut and rich running motor)

Ity is the bar that connects the top of the engine to the fire wall. It has a rubber bushing in it that will dry rot and no longer support your engine.

Well I believe the ea81 is a pushrod OHV engine found in pre 1985 subarus.I believe it came in the gl and dl wagons, brats, and rx's. It is a carbed engine that does make about 70-80 hp. It redlines I believe at 5500 rpms, and makes about 50-60 lbs of tourque around 4200 rpms. It probably weighs a little more with the flywheel and everything attached, I would say right at 220 lbs with everything attached(minus trans). It is about 16 inches long and about 26" wide. They never really changed through the years except carbs and emissions equipment. The EA series subaru engine is the workhorse of the series. They are very dependable, and once you learn the format of the engine very easy to work on. The things that usually go bad are the timingbelts and head gaskets. The timing belts are easily replaced while to service the heads it is usually best to lift out the engine. you don't even need a hoist to do it, just pick it up. As far as getting to 100 hp I know some members have done it with the help of turbo's, but going N/A I am not sure if is possible as the aftermarket is pretty slim for these engines. Some common mods are delta cams, weber carb, and accel coil/wires. There is also an EA82 design which is very similar, but it is OHC, and produces about 10 hp more. It is also easier to turbo, and actually can bought that way. Found on ebaymotors searching for "subaru engine".

I had always thought the 5 spd pushbutton tranny would bolt right up to an ej engine. I guess not.

I would take some carb cleaner and clean it out real well. the inside and the outside. Then take some wd-40 and spray the linkage on the outside. It sounds like the throttle linkage is gummed up and sticking. Itcould also be a vaccume leak. You may want to replace all of the vaccume hoses anyway, 1 at a time so you know where they go.

Turbo axles will not fit on a non-turbo car. the inner cup spline count is different. I think you can change the inner cups to match your tranny. the outers are the same I believe. The shaft is a lot bigger than the others.

ok, thats not bad, it looked a lot lower.

Check the for sale section. I think someone is parting out an ea81 wagon with a lift.

I found it searching on ebay. only 3000 original miles, and primered for paint. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6467&item=2490319153&rd=1 Here's another one, but it is pricey. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6467&item=2489748225&rd=1

Is that a rear diff you are using for the front of the car? If it is, wouldn't it be spinning in reverse since the pumpkin is now backwards? I would think you would need reverse rotation gears to put a read diff in the front. Maybe not, I know I have taken toyota rear 7.5" diffs, and put them into the front before. Sorry, I am drugged up. I have the flu. How did you mount it there? Are you planning on making some sort of skid plate for the diffs, and t-case. They hang pretty low it appears. Nice work any ways. It looks good.

From what Moosens (I think it was him, maybe Miles) told me was all the rear axles (turbo or not) are all the same. I know the part numbers on my 85 d/r ea82 wagon match the numbers on my 87 s/r ea82t wagon. the 87 has discs too, and the 85 has drums. I hope that helps a little.

That thing is so sweet. It looks like a lunar buggy! Did you lock any of the diffs?

Ozzy is my nickname. Cool.

They will fit on the back. For the front you can use spacers.

The yota t-case isn't that big. It is all aluminum, and weighs like 80lbs. Now your other gripes about the output shaft and such are understandable. I wasn't really thinking in terms of strenght when I mentioned it, just possibilities. I know it would be overkill for the yote t-case. I have seen them stand up to big blocks.(TTC-98)

My dad has a cherry 86'. It is a beast. He had some custom 15" rims made and put a set of 29" swampers on it. It will pop wheelies in granny low.

Has anyone ever tried using a toyota truck t-case? The one from the 20r-22re engines is all gear driven, aluminum, and has more aftermarket support than the zuki case. They are also very strong units.

Your thinking of the np203:) Any way a 205 would not be very benificial. Aside from being extremely heavy, it only has a 1.92:1 low range. That is not very good. But it is bomb proof, and you can take the aformentioned np 203 and mate it with the np205 for a doubler t-case that yeilds a 5.0:1 low range. That unit would probably weigh 200 lbs+.

I have that same year/color wagon sitting at my house. I wonder if he needs replacement fenders.

Welcome back dude.

New. It would throw a cell. So is the o2 sensor. Thanks though.

LOL, because subaru's are never going to be able to what a live axle vehicle with good support can. He gets the best of both worlds. I am for it %100.

No biggie, I thought it was only a two hour drive. Where is the purge valve located at? Would that really do something as bad as this though? I thought the purpose of the purge valve was just to get the air out of the fuel system while attempting to start it. See the thing is, is that when the car is cold it runs like a champ, but after about 15 mins of driving it starts acting up. To me this means it is electrical, as electrical things don't like heat. If it is a heat issue, than I don't think getting the fluke meter out and checking resistances across sensors is going to do the trick. It is not throwing a cel so that makes it even harder to determine. The car does run cooler now that I have put a 170 degree thermostat in, and hard wired the fan to constant on, but If I don't keep it that way it will run hot(about 210) while sitting at the long rump roast lights here in the hot sun with the a/c on. ( I will not sacrafice my ac. It still gets above 90 here with 85% humidity) I send you out a money order for the maf sensor if you can pm me your address. I will include something for shipping as well.

For slip yoke shafts you could try these, although pricey, I had them for my toyota, and they were sweet. They can be found here:http://www.downeyoff-road.com/SuspensionComponents/index.htm along with a lot of other cool possibilties. You can also try allpro offroad.

bridgestone blizzacks. Pretty good from what I hear.