iluvdrt

And like I said, its only 55-70 when accelerating. Guess Ill pony up and take it in. The vibration is annoying as hell and makes me want to drive my Crosstrek instead lol.

I had them balanced, but everyone wants an arm and a leg to do it ($20 a wheel, a complete new set of tires is less than that) so I had it done on base in the hobby shop....which is questionable as to the quality of the balance. I had it pretty well managed for about a month until I tore it all apart for my 5 speed conversion, an alas, it retuned. I am thinking it has to be a crappy axle that doesn't seat well. I have several brand new ones I saved (cheap remans). Maybe Ill sacrifice one for its boots and rebuild my Subaru ones with some good grease. I originally thought they were the problem so I changed them out, but the problem didn't go away so they must still be good other than the torn boots. If it were my spring washer, my axle nut would loosen right? Cant wait to install my lift so I can run some good new rims with nice tires.

So I have been chasing a bad vibration on my 82 Brat every since I have had it. It feels like it is on the driver side front. It only happens from about 55-70 MPH and only while accelerating. Sometimes it is very bad and cases the car to wander lanes. Once I am past 70 or under 55 it goes away. I have changed out the CV axles with EMPI axles, the ball joints, the tie rod ends, the wheel bearings, and rotated the tires. Everything is torqued to spec. The only things I can think of is that maybe my hub is warped, My crappy tires are causing it (Kumho) or maybe the cone washers are bad. Any ideas?

I will. Itll be a bit before theyre installed though. My budgets a little thin from doing my 5 speed conversion and lift.

I asked him and he said he wasn't sure. Im only doing a 4" so maybe that isn't enough.

I just bought a new Brat side sticker set for my 82 and a Brat kid sticker. Everything looks great. Will be installing soon.

A Brat weighs 1700lbs. After your frankenmotor swap it should be fine. Use a tow dolly and disconnect the driveshaft on the Brat at the Diff. It will be fine. Ive done it a dozen times in my Outback. Just go slow, and use the engine to help slow down/brake when needed.

So, I should be receiving my Jerry's kit soon for my 82 Brat and the DR 5 speed conversion. I am also installing an ADF 4" lift. My question is on the shifters. Will I have to do anything to the shifter with the 5 speed and the lift, or will they still work? Does anyone have any pictures if the modifications are required? Thanks! This is almost ready to come together! Once it is done, I am going to put together a build thread since all of this information seems very dispersed throughout the forum.

I ended up getting a total custom unit with Spicer 1410 U joints. Cost about $430, but they say it will never break. I also have the option to service the u joints now.

I had squishy brakes on my 82 Brat. Change the rubber brake lines. Chances are they've never been changed. When I did mine it stopped like I had Brembos...not really, but it was WAY better. You can get them off of Rockauto cheap.

OK, bummer. Thanks

Are the hubs for front and rear disc brakes on an EA82 the same? When looking for new hubs, only the front is available. That ks

Just curious for those of you who have had to get a drive shaft extended from doing a trans conversion, how much did it cost you? In NC when I had this done it was around $100-$150, but now that I am in SoCal its about $100 more. Is that about right for this area?

No worries bro. Sometimes the internet gets the best of us LOL. I checked my stash at home, and unfortunately my other set of tails is for a Gen 2. Ill keep my eyes open for you when I hit the junk yards this weekend!

The switch is a 2 throw, 2 position switch, both of them being "ON". There is no off. Its either on for FWD, or it on for 4WD. Make sense?

I had one actually. Posted several days ago. I am sure someone can help you out. Again, my apologies, but the other forum member contacted me first regarding the items, and made an offer. He was the first. Good luck with your search. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/153247-gen-1-brat-tail-lightsmarker-lights/

It was a short sale man. He responded first with a commitment. I had several other people ask about them, but not 1 person bought them. He had funds and commited first. I am sorry it didnt work out for you.

Awesome, I have been looking for a decal set for my Gen 2 Brat. Mine are original and in pretty rough shape. The RC Brat is awesome too! I have an Axial SCX-10 custom Brat rock crawler I made. Would love to get some of the RC stickers for it!

I have a nice set of tail lights i am selling that came off of a 78 Brat. They have 2 very small cracks (1 ea), but the cracks arent all the way through and they arent by a screw hole. I pulled them from a Junkyard. Im selling them for $100 for both OBO, and it is the entire assembly with harness and bulbs (cant guarentee the bulbs lol). I would prefer to sell as a set. I also have a set of the side marker lights. They are also in good shape and Im selling them cheap. Youll have to PM me your email, for some reason I cant sut and paste pics.

What's the idle at? Too high of an idle can cause it too

Subscribed! This is amazing!

So, with some tuning I FINALLY got it running great. But whenever I make a hard right hand turn it wants to stall out. I am thinking its because the fuel pulls away from the jet. My float is at 42mm, and there is no way the redline pump is running out of steam. Fuel pressure is 3.5 PSI. Any ideas how to fix that?

I went ahead and installed the Weber Redline fuel pump and Volley FPR. I cranked it to 3 PSI and things got even better. This is such an amazing set up, I can't thank everyone enough for the help. I'll post pics soon, my Brat is almost showroom quality lol. 99% rust free and just minor door ding dents a 33 year old car would have. That is for all of the help!

Well, its fixed and runs amazing! I ported the lip where the flange and adapter is to make it a smoother transition. Changed the needle valve the power valve operates, installed a dual nozzel jet with new banjo bolt, the main jets are 145/140 and the emulsion tubes are 165/160. I also pulled out all unused vacuum tubes from the manifold, drilled and tapped them out to fit 1/8 brass pipe plugs with JB weld. I made a EGR block off plate and installed it with JB Weld also. New Subaru intake manifold gaskets and that wrapped it up. I'm still going to install the redline fuel pump, holley fuel regulator and fuel return valve this weekend, but for now she's running darn near perfect and not leaking fuel anymore. Thanks for all of the help. I'll drop a line once the fuel pump is in with the regulator and return.

OK, I took off the Carb and intake manifold last night. It looked like whoever rebuilt the Carb before me installed all of the jets and emulsion tubes like a DGAV, not a DFEV (which is a mirror opposite). So what that means is that basically everything was backwards. The jets were also considerably smaller than what the OE spec calls for. It had a 130 jet in the primary and a 137 in the secondary. The emulsion tubes were 160/155 and the idle jets were on the wrong sides although they were the correct size. I installed a 150 jet in the primary and a 145 in the secondary, a 180 primary emulsion tube and a 170 in the secondary, a dual nozzel jet, and swapped the idle jets around to match the primary and secondary locations according to the weber listing for the DFEV Carb. I am still waiting on my needle valve for the power valve assy, as well as the banjo bolt for the jet nozzel (which did not have the check valve installed). I should also be recieving my Redline fuel pump in a few days as well. I should have some results to post up by this weekend.