iluvdrt

I got the gauge and everything. I ended up going with a Holley regulator 1-4 PSI. After installing the gauge, I am only getting 1.5 PSI of fuel, so I ordered the Redline fuel pump. That hasnt arrived yet. So for the next week I am removing the intake manifold and porting it mildly to get better flow off of the adapter plate, checking all of the jets and tubes in the carb and setting it back to OE spec (mine is high altitude), using genuine Subaru gaskets, and installing the redline fuel pump with the holley regulator. If that doesn't fix it, .....EJ22 swap lol

no, it has a standard float just like any other Carb. When the needle valve is closed, the fuel will just return to the tank, as the float drops opening the valve, the fuel flows back into the bowl to refill it.

This is nice. Any updates?

I saw this on Facebook, it is beautiful and inspiration for my retromod!!

OK, small updates. I ordered a standard jet kit from redline as well as new intake manifold gaskets from Subaru (I am just not trusting the felpros that are on there now). I also checked my fuel pressure and it is at 1.5-2 PSI. I am not sure if that is enough or if I need a fuel pump. I have read Webers like 2-4 PSI. I have the Holley fuel pressure regulator (not installed). Should I get the Redline fuel pump then use the regulator to send 3-3.5 PSI to the carb? My power valve is brand new, but the full power valve it pushes has been ordered. I also read that the pump delivery valve that holds the accelerator pump jets can stick causing fuel to escape as well, so I ordered that too.

Yeah, I found some that have the return built in. I guess fuel pressure is supposed to be around 4 lbs, and my FSM says the stock pump (if that's what it still has) has an output of 2-8. That could be why its leaking inside when I shut it off maybe. I'm going to order the weber redline regulator and install it inline with a gauge. Seems to be the best option I think.

OK, I know what it is now, Thanks. If I am installing a pressure regulator, should it go into the return line to prevent too much fuel from getting recirculated?

My weber does not have return line hole like my hiatachi did. Do I just install the return line into the fuel supply hose and place the pressure regulator inline on the return line?

Its actually running very well. I ordered a jet kit today, and plan on porting the intake where the adapter goes to smooth out the lip thats there. I can't imagine that is good for air flow.

Installing a return line would be hard since there is no outlet, I can check the fuel pressure though and perhaps get a regulator with a return. I have read Webers are happy around 3-4 PSI. I am running the stock pump (AFAIK), so maybe this is something to look into. Thanks for the tip

Does anyone know if the DGEV jets are the same as the DFEV? I am guessing they are, but as I found out in my 2 different rebuild kits, not everything is the same.

Well do thanks for the help!

OK cool. Maybe the valve itself is bad. I don't see how I can adjust either the vlavle or the plunger. Its not as bad as it was. Thanks for all of the help. Next is jet issues. Under light throttle, right around 2800 rpms it falls on its face until the secondaries open. I need to see what jets I have because the carb came from Denver and I'm in social. I'm thinking they may be smaller. Its not a big deal, but I am super OCD with how my cars run. It also has a stumble specifically in 3-4 gear at about the same throttle position. No vacuums leaks. Every gaskets was replaced (even intake manifold), every hole and bolt chased with a tap and die, and every surface checked with a machinist's ruler. The only thing I haven't done is do a compression test. I didn't think k I needed too because it ran fine with the hiatachi. I am super impressed with the weber though. When floored, man does it scream. I may port the intake a bit to match the adapter plate. There is a noticible lip under the primary because the adapter plate is larger, and I can't help but think some of my drivability issues could be related to shitty air flow.

Does the power plunger suck up until it looses vacuum from an opened throttle and then go down to press the power valve allowing more fuel in when at WOT?

Although, its not nearly as bad now.

I changed the power plunger diaphragm and it still drips when I shut it off. It leaks about 1/2 the bowl in then stops. The float sits level and only moves 2-3 mm while pressing the bearing. I wish I knew what all of these things do. Could the thing the power plunger pushes down on be leaky? It seems fuel flows from the bottom of the bowl,up through the jets and then out the jet nozzles. What does that button thing do at the bottom of the bowl?

I did not. Only the diaphragm on the accelerator pump. I couldn’t find a complete kit, so I just ordered the one from weber direct plus a new filter. It did come with a new needle seat, but nothing I found came with the power valve. Ill just order one. Im 99% sure the floats are good. It measured out on my ruler before I installed it. I never even took off the power valve. Just cleaned everything with kerosene

Thanks for the suggestions BTW!

OK. I'll take it apart this weekend. When I rebuilt it I didn't change the power valve, so maybe that's it. I think the float is gtg, but will still check. I noticed it doesn't do it all the time, just occasionally.

How do I go about adjusting it? I didn't notice any type of adjustment screw? Thanks

So I rebuilt and installed a 32/36 DFEV. I got it for a great deal. I installed it onto my 82 Brat. It runs and idles perfectly, but when I turn it off the jets are leaking into the motor. What is causing this? It floods the engine and makes it very hard to start. Thanks for any help!

I just got a Cardone distributor as well. The drive gear was 180 degrees backwards (the drive gear dimple didnt line up with the exciter or the dimple in the distributor casing) causing me to have issues. I think this throws the timing off inside the distrubutor itsself. I fixed it and my trucks runs, so it obviously does something. Also check the air gap, mine was off there as well. Im not too impressed with Cardone at this point.

I found this link and shop the other day. The owner, Ron seems like a decent guy. I enquired about the kit and his responce was: "The part number and price for the engine rebuild kit is SU1781LEK $288.94 plus $16.80 shipping to a U.S. street address. This kit includes: ITM pistons, wrist pins and rings, Clevite main bearings and rod bearings, ITM complete gasket set, and ITM wrist pin bushings. The oil pump is no longer available. Topline is the manufacturer of the re-ring kit and all parts are Topline EKSU6R $267.25 (1.2mm top ring width). This kit includea: premium rings, main bearings, rod bearings and complete gasket st including Viton valve seals. Of course, we will need to know the size of the pistons and bearings. The pistons come in std. (or .020" over sizes) and the bearings come in std. (or .010" or .020" or .030" over sizes), all the same price." Is anyone familar with some of these part brands?

You cannot "find" an external leak unless it is physically leaking from the head gasket. The only other detection method is a hydrocarbon test taken from the radiator filler neck. Most "mom and pop" shops do not have this. If they didn't drive it and didn't catch it pushing coolant then they would have detected it. My best advice: Sell it and cut your losses. It happens sometimes.

Cool deal. I have a black w/ chrome outter grill I'll give you free if you pay the shipping (28546). The emblem fell off but otherwise it is in perfect shape. PM me if interested.