iluvdrt

Cool, thanks for all the replies. That's kind of what I was thinking. Basically, just because a wire is shielded doesn't mean the entire circut is, only that portion which would require the shielding because the wire's location gives the circut the possibility for interference.

What is a shielded joint connector and why would it be spliced into a nonshielded ground wire? IE: My front 02sensor has a ground wire coming off it it, but a shielded wire splices into it, goes through a shielded joint connector and ends up at the ECU, while the other unshielded spliced portion runs through basically the entire engine ground system. I am guessing it would be shielded from radio interference, but wouldn't it recieve interference from the unshielded portion running the rest of the way through the harness? Thanks.

Knock sensor?? located in the mid driver side of the engine under the intake manifold.

Nice score man. Looks like you are on your way to making a nice ride. Please dont get greedy though and turn the boost up. The pistons are not forged and I have had to rebuild several 22T's from guys cranking up the boost. Even 10-12lbs will melt your ringlands.

Here is the data log from the freeze frame data when the latest code hit: Fuel sys- OL Fuel sys 2-NA calc load-17% ECT-183.4 STFT-0.00 LTFT-0.00 MAP-(KPA) 43 RPM-2562 Veh spd-33MPH

Yes, it is a Bosche Cool, Thanks Cougar. I'll check it out today. I have a fluke and some back probes so I should be able to get the readings with that.

Well the code is back. I cant shake it. SHould change out the sensor again or what??

LOL no doubt. Usually (90%) I buy all my stuff at NAPA. This O2 came from the Zone. I cleaned the connector with elec con cleaner today and had a much more audible "click" as I reconnected it. Maybe it will be better now. I also cleaned the MAF and its connector. Next I think it cleaning out the IACV. Dispite having the ECU grounded so it knows my car is now a 5 spd, I have been getting quite a few engine elec probs not related to the conversion. Like the O2 sensor, IAC valve...mostly.

Yes I changed the sensor out for another new one. I am going to clean out the connection with some good cleaner and check it to ensure it is secure. I'll clear the code and report back in a few days. I have a hard time thinking I got 2 bad sensors back to back.

Well I was able to confirm the O2 had a direct short to ground (The heater was bad) causing the car to not run. When I changed the main relay out I also added some new battery grounds as well. Car starts like a champ now....except I keep getting a P0130 O2 malfunction code. I am going to clean the connectors today (since I applied dielectric grease to it) and see if that helps it. Maybe the sensor doesnt like the grease on the connector.

Well I unplugged the new O2 sensor and it fired right up, running perfect. Wierd. Any thoughts??

Yes I just changed it. It was a PITA. I also bought and replaced a new crank sensor and cam sensor. Nothing has worked. I am thinking the ignitor might be bad. I think the main relay and the ign relay are the same. I only saw two relays up there, the brown one and the green one (Fuel) It did this about 3 months ago, but after towing it home it fired right up and there was no more problems.

My car (98 Legacy GT 2.5 with MT conversion) started running like crap today then died. It threw a P1100 ign switch circut fault. It cranks fine. Sometimes it fires up and runs for a minute but then it dies. I have checked to see if the coil is getting 12V and it is. The fuel pressure is also good. I removed the factory alarm and it is still doing the same thing. Someone please help because this one is really whipping me. Thanks.

That first dyno plot is something else. I cant stop looking at it, I don't think a 4 y/o could have drawn something more wierd looking LOL. I would have never guessed the VSS wire would be that important.

Well after a week of searching every junkyard within 100 miles and all the Subaru internet forums I may have found a driveshaft (Thanks McBrat!). After I get that, Ill install it, finish the slave cyl, and starter install, bolt on the exhaust and install fluids. For the fluids I will run Valvoline 75/90 syn gear oil with a quart of Royal Purple Synchromesh. The rear diff is getting good ol GL5. I am very excited to finally get this back on track.

Here is the wiring schematic from the FSM. I have added notes. I still have to find a drive shaft. The sedans is WAY to short and my old auto is just slightly to short. I am going to try and get a bugeye 5 spd wagon shaft and see if that fits. The starter is not in yet because my slave cyl is on order. When it gets here I'll finish installing the small bits and hopefully then I'll be done. I did not loose ABS, I have no cel, and AFAIK my cruise still works.

Here is the pedals w/ everything tucked up interior shots:

Here is the bolt I made into a stud for the starter. Trans is in This is the bolt hole by the control arm for the x member Here is wiring harness part you use. The 4 wires come from this plug. The black wires are the NS switch. I routed them through the speedo cable hole to the pedal. Here is the NS switch on the clutch pedal. It is the black wires with elec tape. Here is the speed sensor switched over from the auto. The little black switch on the shifter is what you need to splice together. This lets your key out. I have heard it also closes the relay for your fuel pump.

Made some nice progress this weekend. 5 spd trans is in. Removed the auto and flex plate from the engine. Installed new 2 peice flywheel with exedy stage 2 clutch. The only problem with using the 05 trans is the bell housing had 6 bolts (vs 4 from the 98). I took a 12mm bolt and made a 4" long stud. I then tapped the lower starter hole in the 5 spd trans with a 12mm 1.5 tap. I didn't tap all the way through the trans so my stud would have a stopping point. Then, I inserted the stud with some loctite on it into the trans. I had to drill the hole in the starter a little larger to fit over the stud, but everything is good now. Some people drill and tap the block, but I thought this was easier and since the auto is set up this way, it is proven to work. The pedals were a PITA. You have to remove pretty much everything from under the dash. I didn't disconnect anything, but just unbolted and tied up out of the way. The new pedal box is a lot bigger then just the old brake pedal. The clutch portion of the box fits through the holes in the firewall where that black plug is next to the brake master cyl. The clutch master cyl bolts to that. replace all electrical stuff in a new home under the dash. Manual trans went in like butter. SOO much more room under the car now. The auto is gigantic and I should be saving about 100-150 lbs from this swap as well. The bolt holes for the x member are by the control arm bracket. They had rubber plugs in them. These are a fine thread. 12x1.75. I used 30mm long bolts with a large washer on them. The two holes f or the shifter assy are also plugged up by where the shifter is. They are standard 8mm x 1.50 IIRC. I used sedan axles. The 05 axles have exciter rings on them for the ABS. Our cars have a diff set up. These rings on the axle have to be removed. A punch and hammer makes quick work of that though. The reinsert into the car as normal. The wiring was a little tricky. The 4 eat has 100x87597657 wires going to it. You only need 4. 2 for reverse, and 2 for neutral safety. There are also 2 wires that come off of the little switch on the shifter that allow you to get your keys out and I have heard turn on the fuel pump. The 4 wires you need come off of the trans inhibitor switch selector harness. I used the factory pig tail tail and cut all the wires off of it except the 4 I need. This makes for a cleaner install and you can still unplug the trans from the harness. The pin numbers are 9-12 (9, 10, 11, 12) on the harness side of that plug. 9, and 10 are for the reverse lights. Plug them into the 5 spd reverse switch on the trans. It is the white switch at the back of the trans. There is a black switch on the trans as well, but we dont need it. IDK what it does. Mine must be bad because even w/ a mutimeter I couldnt get continuity out of it. I let it hang. 11 and 12 are for the Neutral Safety switch. I plugged them into the clutch pedal switch. There are 2 switches on the clutch pedal. The bottom switch is for cruise control dis engagement. You dont need to use that one. The top one is the NS switch. When you puch the clutch pedal down it closes the switch and completes the circut. Clutch is out circut is open and cruise works. Use your old vehicle speed sensor. The newer VSS's have 3 prongs. Ours only have 2. They look diff but are a direct swap. You will have to extend the harness a bit to make it reach. Also, there is a little metal peice that goes inside of the VSS. Ensure this swaps over with the sensor. It falls out of the switch very easy. My auto driveshaft is too short and so was the sedan 5 spd drive shaft. I am thinking I need a wagon drive shaft, or have mine extended.

Well I am starting my 5 speed swap on Monday after my auto-x. I will try to document everything here and make things comprehensive for future swappers. Hopefully I have everything. The only thing I am not sure about is which drive shaft to use. I have the auto drive shaft that is on it, and I also have the sedan manual drive shaft. I bought the swap from millennium auto on here. It was $1800 and included almost every thing minus the trans harness, sensors, pitchmount/bracket, and slave cyl. I found a donor 02 wrx and got all that stuff from it. I will have pics of the goodies up soon. Here is a pic of the wagon: Its mods are: 3 angle valve grind twe spring and retainers new HG's accel 8mm wires NGK iridium plugs Perrin LW pulley Whiteline lateral links 04 Pink STi struts w/ black springs some JDM goodness 215/50/16 BFG G-force sport A/S tires 05 OBS Enkei wheels 07 WRX 4 pot front brakes 07 WRX 2 pot rear brakes w/ hub conversion Goodridge SS lines 2.5" straight pipe exhaust (no cats)

FWIW if you want to save some money on that belt, buy a T-belt from NAPA. They are made by Gates, and resonably priced. I just did a reseal on my 99 Lego. I bought all my parts there and was curious about the belt. Sure enough on the back of the box it said manuf by gates for NAPA. I was like cool!

The best I found is to fold the boot back over its self, slide it up to the rack, and flip it onto the rack. Takes 2 seconds and works like a charm.

I had an 87 GL10 with the single range 5 spd and 13" tires. On the beach (I know, but it still sand), as long as your moving you are fine. As soon as you stop, you cannot get rolling again in the powder sand. The engine doesnt have enough power, and the tires dont float enough. The D/R swap helped a lot, but it still wasnt a cruiser with the skinny 13" tires.

I believe the Forester struts and springs will get you a little more. I have heard the outback is about 1" and the forester is about 1.5". They just bolt right in, and there are no additional problems.