daeron

I usually degrease the coils and blast-rinse them with hot water, too. Any road grime in there just blocks air and traps heat, yanno?

There are many parts that my uncle acquired with some stuff. I have three threads in the past regarding the parts, and some of them are now on Ebay being sold by my brother. I figured I would post links here, because the Classified section seemed more geared for direct sale person-to-person. If the Classified section would be more appropriate, then by all means please move the thread Old threads: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85126&highlight=uncle#post911955 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85128&highlight=uncle Ebay links: Brat jumpseat belt http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300409690011&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT AC compressor clutch, NOS http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300409724336&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT 81 DL/GL/Brat Driver Side seatbelt http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300410358075&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT M/T 1600 radiator http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300410358388&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT XT P/S power mirror, Red http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300410358748&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT XT P/S power mirror, Maroon http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300410358937&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT All these parts are NOS stuff, never been used, in good condition. IIRC one or two radiators were less than perfect, but we had several radiators and my brother is a big believer in selling only one item of a kind, at a time. Believe the Ebay auctions over any descriptions I have listed in the past. Many things in the old threads have already been sold; the little old carby, the gauge pod for the DL, and other things I cannot recall have been sold. There were two BRAT jumpseat belts, but my brother just informed me that someone informed HIM that they are both same side. ANY corrections regarding part information are MORE than welcome, even requested! Also, if you see anything I mentioned in the past that interests you let me know.

My rusted out GL-10 finally ate the clutch packs in the 3AT at 177K and I sold it to someone who pulled the engine and some other parts, and junked it. I figured I had to post a final mileage on her.. I was sad to see her go, but the 5 speed swap car failed to materialize at just the right time, and I needed to get rid of the car and get the $250 I got for her.

yah but thats IT is what I am saying.. the frame looks like butter, its just the crazy aerated trunk-ola... Right now I am looking for cheap wheels, and $1000 seems to be the new standard low price for a car around here.. but within a year or two, who knows. I have friends who moved out to colorado some time ago, and I owe them a visit. I could arrange that visit around a car to drive home in; probably cheaper than shipping the car, definitely more enjoyable (as long as nothing serious breaks down on the way.)

if I could FIND one!!!! They are practically nonexistent down here, and those I have seen are almost all 3at :confused: Maybe someday I will fy to CO and drive one home, but for now im trying to find wheels. looking at early 90s sentras and maximas, but realistically ANYTHING small and 5 speed would do. no..... more..... slushboxes..... the only thing that will ever convince me to buy one is a wife. Edit-- And seriously, the rust wasn't all that BAD, functionally..... Just AWFUL looking, and a fully aerated trunk (tops and bottoms, heh...) There were two or three small patches around the windshield (no leak but cracking hazard) and one tiny tiny patch by the passenger kick panel, but the frames are solid. Ziebarted car, of course http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p249/tardaeron/Subarust/ in case anyone is interested

Second gear quit. Metal shavings all up in my pan. That's it, folks.. the car's toast! I can't/won't fix a slushbox, and there aren't cars in my area from which to pull a transmission, and the car is so rusty that everyone I know looks at me funny any time I have ever suggested the effort of a five speed swap. Besides, that would be even more than a JY 3AT, and ANY expense just... isn't worth it to me. The car is in interesting shape otherwise. Digidash, cruise and AC worked until a mystery vacuum solenoid (i think) problem happened, never traced it all down.. Sunroof works, power windows all work, engine just had HGs redone about (WOW) 30K ago. Timing belts are due, wter pump about 45K old, newish rad. Just did rear bearings and front brakes/rotors. Its got the mudflaps on it; I'll pull those before it goes to the crusher. I also have a DIN stereo kit installed, retaining the trip computer, and have run rear speaker wires already. 4-door, SPFI, 2WD, blue interior, 3AT that only has first, and third after it warms up and finally shifts in. The junkyard will give me $200 (one said 215) so if anyone wants to beat that for an awesomely great motor and a GL10 parts car with new front brakes and rear bearings, better act quick. Otherwise the mudflaps and possibly the stereo kit (it may already be promised to someone) will be for sale here soon, and if anyone has any requests that won't make the JY short me on $$ let me know. Soon. Very soon. shawnmcarey at gmail dot com. This really stinks, I don't wanna say goodbye to my subaru, but I JUST got her over 177,777 miles and got a photo of it at speed.. not sure where thats at right now or I would post it, but I really don't have an option to save the car; the rust is bad enough that *I* don't think she is worth the effort. You're welcome to try.

http://extrudabody.com/ There is a guy north of me in Florida who uses various aluminum extrusion to make ITB setups. He makes "SU Replacement Kits" that replace the dual SUs found on many MG/Triumph/Datsun cars with a pair of TBs with fuel injectors mounted in them. They sell for about 700 USD, I forget if that includes injectors or not. Two injectors and throttle bodies per motor, 50mm bore I think? I know he goes down to at least 40mm for his ITB setups and I know he is a good guy, so he would probably work with you if you wanted 40mm "SU replacements" and he doesn't already have it listed on his web site. Clicky Picky:

dude, just push the bloody thing over onto its side on a couple stacks of tires and pressure wash, then paint the underside of the thing with some high gloss black. Maybe even get a spray gun and some rustoleum and lay a few coats on until its nice and thick.. That frame looks to be in really good shape, no reason not to try and keep it that way.

New Parts Fail!!!! A suggestion that the thermostat stuck closed is NOT an indicator that someone wasn't paying attention to what you said. If its any consolation, my second gear clutch bands burnt out in my 3AT, so my GL-10 is now just over a ton of scrap. Speaking of which, I should throw an ad up asking for $250 for the car before I need to have it hauled off for the cash. such a shame... But regarding your car, quit feeding the bloody demons already!! Stop being upset about an incident, step forward, diagnose, and if you quit after that, quit.. but you have NO IDEA what happened yet. If you know what is wrong with the car you can probably sell it for double what you could otherwise. The motor cannot be TOO bad, and even if it is I am sure you could get good coin for your west coast vehicle even without an engine. Are you in a rush to get rid of it or something?? Seriously, relax. You KNOW this kind of feeling just feeds upon itself, and you know that your brain is the only thing that can change it. It could be worse; MY headgasket job (as well as $80 worth of two week old brakes up front) is now wasted time, effort, and money because of a transmission failure that Nothiing could prevent, and I am now scrambling to get an automatic trans 240Z parts car that is EVEN RUSTIER THAN MY SUBARU running well enough to deliver some pizzas in so I can scrap together $500 for a ride.... E'rybody gottta deal with BS; misery loves company (usually.) Hope you pick your chin up over this one soon!!!

So seven months later you get the carb on? heh.. Looks good though, I like this build. I would tend more towards the MS/EFI school, but its hard to knock a weber as long as one is enough for the motor. Keep us posted! hopefully you'll get her started soon.

I like the gutted cat sound on my EA82 GL10.. I have a factory muffler in unkown condition, and a well ventilated exhaust pipe from head flange all the way back.. seafoam is an experience that should be done with lasers and pink floyd, smoke coming out from a billion tiny holes under the car... the sound is JUST right though, so I dont want to mess with it. Just out of curiosity, have you checked the compression/leakdown on this motor? A leaking or down cylinder, or low comp numbers across the board might also be a culprit. Just an idea, probably a semi-useless task to perform as a rule-out, but it never hurts to know your combustion chambers are good and tight.

Just noticed this, thought someone might want to take advantage of it: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Blizzak+WS-50&vehicleSearch=false&partnum=87R3BZWS50&fromCompare1=yes&place=5 It says "fewer than two" upon second inspection, but there are 155/80s for 28 "in stock." All of them are on closeout. Just a heads-up, it might be worth emailing to find out if the "fewer than two" is an error...

My understanding is that residual, unburnt seafoam makes it through the entire engine, and soaks the materials clogging up the catalytic converter; then when you restart it helps burn that off as well. I can't say this with too much authority, though, because the Datsun I had that I seafoamed religiously had no cat, and the soobie's cat is gutted, so I have never personally owned a vehicle with a cat to maintain... But at the very least, if you were to suck some into an intake line with the starter and leave the coil wire disconnected, that would certainly get some onto the honeycomb in the cat, and help clean it off when you restart the engine.

buy a new cap and be certain.. also make sure that the radiator filler neck is nice and smooth in the sealing area for the cap. It doesn't take much to damage the rubber seal, and you cannot always know when it is your problem without using a new one.