daeron

I usually degrease the coils and blast-rinse them with hot water, too. Any road grime in there just blocks air and traps heat, yanno?

There are many parts that my uncle acquired with some stuff. I have three threads in the past regarding the parts, and some of them are now on Ebay being sold by my brother. I figured I would post links here, because the Classified section seemed more geared for direct sale person-to-person. If the Classified section would be more appropriate, then by all means please move the thread Old threads: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85126&highlight=uncle#post911955 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85128&highlight=uncle Ebay links: Brat jumpseat belt http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300409690011&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT AC compressor clutch, NOS http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300409724336&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT 81 DL/GL/Brat Driver Side seatbelt http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300410358075&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT M/T 1600 radiator http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300410358388&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT XT P/S power mirror, Red http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300410358748&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT XT P/S power mirror, Maroon http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300410358937&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT All these parts are NOS stuff, never been used, in good condition. IIRC one or two radiators were less than perfect, but we had several radiators and my brother is a big believer in selling only one item of a kind, at a time. Believe the Ebay auctions over any descriptions I have listed in the past. Many things in the old threads have already been sold; the little old carby, the gauge pod for the DL, and other things I cannot recall have been sold. There were two BRAT jumpseat belts, but my brother just informed me that someone informed HIM that they are both same side. ANY corrections regarding part information are MORE than welcome, even requested! Also, if you see anything I mentioned in the past that interests you let me know.

My rusted out GL-10 finally ate the clutch packs in the 3AT at 177K and I sold it to someone who pulled the engine and some other parts, and junked it. I figured I had to post a final mileage on her.. I was sad to see her go, but the 5 speed swap car failed to materialize at just the right time, and I needed to get rid of the car and get the $250 I got for her.

yah but thats IT is what I am saying.. the frame looks like butter, its just the crazy aerated trunk-ola... Right now I am looking for cheap wheels, and $1000 seems to be the new standard low price for a car around here.. but within a year or two, who knows. I have friends who moved out to colorado some time ago, and I owe them a visit. I could arrange that visit around a car to drive home in; probably cheaper than shipping the car, definitely more enjoyable (as long as nothing serious breaks down on the way.)

if I could FIND one!!!! They are practically nonexistent down here, and those I have seen are almost all 3at :confused: Maybe someday I will fy to CO and drive one home, but for now im trying to find wheels. looking at early 90s sentras and maximas, but realistically ANYTHING small and 5 speed would do. no..... more..... slushboxes..... the only thing that will ever convince me to buy one is a wife. Edit-- And seriously, the rust wasn't all that BAD, functionally..... Just AWFUL looking, and a fully aerated trunk (tops and bottoms, heh...) There were two or three small patches around the windshield (no leak but cracking hazard) and one tiny tiny patch by the passenger kick panel, but the frames are solid. Ziebarted car, of course http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p249/tardaeron/Subarust/ in case anyone is interested

Second gear quit. Metal shavings all up in my pan. That's it, folks.. the car's toast! I can't/won't fix a slushbox, and there aren't cars in my area from which to pull a transmission, and the car is so rusty that everyone I know looks at me funny any time I have ever suggested the effort of a five speed swap. Besides, that would be even more than a JY 3AT, and ANY expense just... isn't worth it to me. The car is in interesting shape otherwise. Digidash, cruise and AC worked until a mystery vacuum solenoid (i think) problem happened, never traced it all down.. Sunroof works, power windows all work, engine just had HGs redone about (WOW) 30K ago. Timing belts are due, wter pump about 45K old, newish rad. Just did rear bearings and front brakes/rotors. Its got the mudflaps on it; I'll pull those before it goes to the crusher. I also have a DIN stereo kit installed, retaining the trip computer, and have run rear speaker wires already. 4-door, SPFI, 2WD, blue interior, 3AT that only has first, and third after it warms up and finally shifts in. The junkyard will give me $200 (one said 215) so if anyone wants to beat that for an awesomely great motor and a GL10 parts car with new front brakes and rear bearings, better act quick. Otherwise the mudflaps and possibly the stereo kit (it may already be promised to someone) will be for sale here soon, and if anyone has any requests that won't make the JY short me on $$ let me know. Soon. Very soon. shawnmcarey at gmail dot com. This really stinks, I don't wanna say goodbye to my subaru, but I JUST got her over 177,777 miles and got a photo of it at speed.. not sure where thats at right now or I would post it, but I really don't have an option to save the car; the rust is bad enough that *I* don't think she is worth the effort. You're welcome to try.

http://extrudabody.com/ There is a guy north of me in Florida who uses various aluminum extrusion to make ITB setups. He makes "SU Replacement Kits" that replace the dual SUs found on many MG/Triumph/Datsun cars with a pair of TBs with fuel injectors mounted in them. They sell for about 700 USD, I forget if that includes injectors or not. Two injectors and throttle bodies per motor, 50mm bore I think? I know he goes down to at least 40mm for his ITB setups and I know he is a good guy, so he would probably work with you if you wanted 40mm "SU replacements" and he doesn't already have it listed on his web site. Clicky Picky:

dude, just push the bloody thing over onto its side on a couple stacks of tires and pressure wash, then paint the underside of the thing with some high gloss black. Maybe even get a spray gun and some rustoleum and lay a few coats on until its nice and thick.. That frame looks to be in really good shape, no reason not to try and keep it that way.

New Parts Fail!!!! A suggestion that the thermostat stuck closed is NOT an indicator that someone wasn't paying attention to what you said. If its any consolation, my second gear clutch bands burnt out in my 3AT, so my GL-10 is now just over a ton of scrap. Speaking of which, I should throw an ad up asking for $250 for the car before I need to have it hauled off for the cash. such a shame... But regarding your car, quit feeding the bloody demons already!! Stop being upset about an incident, step forward, diagnose, and if you quit after that, quit.. but you have NO IDEA what happened yet. If you know what is wrong with the car you can probably sell it for double what you could otherwise. The motor cannot be TOO bad, and even if it is I am sure you could get good coin for your west coast vehicle even without an engine. Are you in a rush to get rid of it or something?? Seriously, relax. You KNOW this kind of feeling just feeds upon itself, and you know that your brain is the only thing that can change it. It could be worse; MY headgasket job (as well as $80 worth of two week old brakes up front) is now wasted time, effort, and money because of a transmission failure that Nothiing could prevent, and I am now scrambling to get an automatic trans 240Z parts car that is EVEN RUSTIER THAN MY SUBARU running well enough to deliver some pizzas in so I can scrap together $500 for a ride.... E'rybody gottta deal with BS; misery loves company (usually.) Hope you pick your chin up over this one soon!!!

So seven months later you get the carb on? heh.. Looks good though, I like this build. I would tend more towards the MS/EFI school, but its hard to knock a weber as long as one is enough for the motor. Keep us posted! hopefully you'll get her started soon.

I like the gutted cat sound on my EA82 GL10.. I have a factory muffler in unkown condition, and a well ventilated exhaust pipe from head flange all the way back.. seafoam is an experience that should be done with lasers and pink floyd, smoke coming out from a billion tiny holes under the car... the sound is JUST right though, so I dont want to mess with it. Just out of curiosity, have you checked the compression/leakdown on this motor? A leaking or down cylinder, or low comp numbers across the board might also be a culprit. Just an idea, probably a semi-useless task to perform as a rule-out, but it never hurts to know your combustion chambers are good and tight.

Just noticed this, thought someone might want to take advantage of it: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Blizzak+WS-50&vehicleSearch=false&partnum=87R3BZWS50&fromCompare1=yes&place=5 It says "fewer than two" upon second inspection, but there are 155/80s for 28 "in stock." All of them are on closeout. Just a heads-up, it might be worth emailing to find out if the "fewer than two" is an error...

My understanding is that residual, unburnt seafoam makes it through the entire engine, and soaks the materials clogging up the catalytic converter; then when you restart it helps burn that off as well. I can't say this with too much authority, though, because the Datsun I had that I seafoamed religiously had no cat, and the soobie's cat is gutted, so I have never personally owned a vehicle with a cat to maintain... But at the very least, if you were to suck some into an intake line with the starter and leave the coil wire disconnected, that would certainly get some onto the honeycomb in the cat, and help clean it off when you restart the engine.

buy a new cap and be certain.. also make sure that the radiator filler neck is nice and smooth in the sealing area for the cap. It doesn't take much to damage the rubber seal, and you cannot always know when it is your problem without using a new one.

Seafoam is not a snake oil additive!!! I will repeat that. Seafoam is NOT a snake oil additive!!! "snake oil additives" are things you buy to "guarantee more power" or "pass emissions or your money back" and they have large print and flashy colors all over the labels to induce those of tender wit to purchase at an exhorbitant price. Seafoam is a top-end cleaner almost identical in formulation to what you recommended, and since it is mass-marketed and sold worldwide, I imagine it is probably a bit less expensive than your GM product, and likely much much more effective than kerosene or ATF at cleansing the interior surfaces of the engine. when I took my engine apart to do the headgaskets last year, there wasn't a trace of carbon to be found in my entire top end. Okay, that is a slight exaggeration, but it was a smudge on my fingers, not a gob on my fingers that smudged everything i touched. I couldn't even see the carbon for the oil residues and crap everywhere on the OUTSIDE of the engine. The greatest part about having Jeb Bush eliminate the emissions testing in the five florida counties that did it, was the way all the real "snake oils" disappeared from the shelves in the parts stores. There are now a few bona-fide fuel additives like seafoam, lucas injector cleaner, techron, etc and thats it! The only snake-oils are the supposed "octane boosters" for the idiot "2ner crowd" ie, ricers. Calling seafoam snake oil is like calling Tylenol or Penicillin snake oil.... Seriously, many of the patent medicines of the 1800s that were the origin of the term "snake oil" were made of ingredients that sound FAR better for you than moldy cheese! Just because someone puts a label on it and sells it, doesn't mean they are a con artist. There ARE people out there who thought "you know, if we could make a product to use like people use kerosene for engine internal cleaning, we could make a tidy profit and do a service!" and formulated such a product; it pains me greatly to hear it dismissed as "snake oil." Sorry, I don't want to come on so strong against YOU.. just against the point you mentioned It has been bugging me for a long time.

screw gentle, seafoam is a godsend. You suck a small quantity up through a vacuum line, then shut the car off and let it sit for 10 minutes, then go for a good hot run and watch everything burn away. You can also add it straight to the gas to get a fuel system clean out of it too. I have yet to hear any story about the proper use of seafoam that had a bad ending.

two good ways for tracing vacuum leaks that I like to use: tube in the ear, listening for them, and an unlit propane torch, trying to feed them fuel so you can hear RPMs go up. I dunno if you knew these tricks or not, but i figured I would make sure

ooooooops!

I was playing devils' advocate saying that the pump is slightly more work; nothing more. I can't recall at the moment the determining factor in the pump height.. search for it using my name, I know I have asked, determined, and talked about it alot. go to advanced search, select older gen subforum only, enter my name, and click on "display as posts" and eventually you will find what your looking for. GD and gloyale have both posted extensively on it too.. many pthers have, but I can vouch for those off the top of my head. BUT.. if you have found a problem spot on the radiator, then I wouldn't fuss so much about the water pump. I didn't put very much accent on it, but in my previous post i DID say "*if* the radiator is uniformly hot...." The fact that it isn't changes things; before, it was difficult to pin the issue on a radiator that checked out OK, so the water pump was looking more likely to be the culprit. Now you have discovered a large section of decreased circulation through the radiator; no telling how much of an overall impedance on coolant flow this is, in addition to the sheer loss of heat capacity of the radiator itself. Remember, its only about 14 inches tall (total guess, cant be more than 20) so 2-4 inches of height across the length of the core is a significant amount to lose. Given the odd nature of the problem, I would like to think that there is probably some contribution from both the water pump and the rad.. but I would wager that replacing the radiator will fixx0r your problem. Hate to say it, but another block flush when you take the old radiator out would probably be wise, if you want to keep the peace of mind you earned by flushing it in the first place. No telling what may have slipped out of the rad and back into the system.. its your call though. Good luck, and I hope I have helped, rather than simply lead you around by the nose :-p

what does the radiator feel like? uniformly hot? The way I see it (read: this is logic talking and not a hoard of limitless experience) if the whole radiator is hot, then it is all radiating heat and doing its job... if the water cannot shunt the heat out of the engine and into the radiator, then you will have a strange trickle-up heat issue. I am picturing a stamped sheetmetal impeller on a cheap water pump that has corroded away here.... If you are talking about temperatures up to 1/2 then you aren't in a danger zone yet. How long has it been since the timing belts were done anyhow? A water pump is usually less expensive than a radiator, and this creeping heat you have doesn't seem to smell like a radiator issue to me for some reason. Of course, it is alot simpler work to replace the radiator than the water pump. It is a tough call.. did you get much crap out of the engine when you flushed it? (or did I just make you jump through a bunch of hoops for no apparent gain? if so sorry :-p)

Hate to sound incredibly morbid, but.. do you have any pictures??? this is a rare malady for the engine indeed, and well.. I'm morbid, I wanna see it!! What are your plans with the car?? its such an easy vehicle to work on, if you want to learn the ins and outs of maintaining an automobile this is a relatively cheap and easy one to do so with for the first time.

Last year while chasing my below-the-radar bad spark plugs, I replaced my nonfunctioning O2 sensor with a cheap bosch universal.. the LED on the ECU was constantly on and I always got very poor voltage through it, IIRC. It was a bear to remove and to re install (I had the exhaust off of the car, had a three foot cheater bar on the O2 sensor and the exhaust levered on the ground with my foot holding it solid, and had to exert full force of my meager 5'8" frame with great care to get it off.. slightly less herculean effort re installing a new one) After the new unit was installed, the voltage read functioned as expected and the LED monitor light on the ECU performed properly as well. It didn't fix the problem I had at the time, but I have never doubted its function since. Have you run a disgusting liberal application of seafoam through the vacuum lines of this car??? If you overdo it, you can manage to get some seafoam out into the catalytic converter, and if it is simply clogged with soot from running rich for so long (good chance) then the seafoam should help to burn it off... Good luck with your war on fascist emissions nazis

I'd be happy with just some photographs

Others have beaten me to the punch, but I was going to ask whether you had the covers on or not. It is ridiculously easy to have one belt off by a tooth if you are *somewhat* familiar with this job..... It is one of those situations where growing confidence can outrun actual ability, and cause patience to go out the window.. a careless mistake made by someone who has done it before, but not REALLY enough times to "just throw it together and be confident it was done right." Ask me how I know this If you ARE concerned with a lack of a "smoking gun" then I would consider replacing the oil pump... it sounds fishy, and I know you like to take proper care of your car.. if it hasn't been done yet, it may well be worth it for peace of mind alone.

Did you have the heads checked at all? You spell out disassembly, replacement, and re assembly "by the book" but never mention resurfacing, hot tanking, cleaning anything, or any work that might lead to the discovery of theoretical cracks.. Drop the exhaust and see what you have. Its always fun to hear the engine running open pipe anyhow