daeron

A-men!

What would it take to prevent the passenger side of the engine from EVER "starving" of coolant before the driver side??? how hard would it be to make a kit, for a mod, to install head studs, possibly by drilling the holes out and using a larger thread?? Coolant flow and air flow really seem to be the two chief limitations on the 1800 blocks, of course I am only familiar firsthand with the OHC but from what I gather the EA81 is not that far off. Personally, I would also tend to try thinking in terms of mods that could be made applicable to both.. but those two random ideas are all I have right now.

I didn't catch on that you were after a switch type TPS. Nissan used a switch type TPS thru the 83 280ZX, although the later model turbos MIGHT be potentiometer type, so be careful if the valve cover in the JY says TURBO on it. It should be a JECS component. I can't imagine why, but something somewhere in the back of my mind is saying that the Z-car switch (and thus all the L-6's) MIGHT have four wires.... so get a picture if possible, if you need to I can pop the hood on my 280Z sometime and triple check.

He wasn't ragging on the EA81, he was ragging the idea of installing a RAM performance engine package into a road car. the EJ example is handy because its 140 horsepower versus 140 horsepower, but you notice it comes up after saying that you could build a mean street EA81 for far less, and have it designed for the car its going in rather than an aircraft engine. In the end, the point was simply this: if you want power, then you have to pay for it. If you pay 10K for an automobile engine that was purpose built for a totally different purpose, then get ready to be ridiculed. It's not browbeating at all, some ideas just get dredged back up time and time again, and get OLD. Of course, hearing "screw that, put an EJ in it" gets a bit old, too.... but at least that argument does have logic on its side. Sometimes, some cars, you dont want the latest and greatest... but in the end RAM performance is good to us as a source of hi-po internals, and high reliability components. We should be glad for that, and not complain that their primary product is so out of our price range... Their primary product may as well be an outboard engine that HAPPENS to share pistons, rods, headgaskets... etc with the EA subarus. In the end, it gets old hearing people rag on GD for being realistic in the face of repetitive pointless subjects; its just another step in the feedback loop. Like the subject header says... "Ram Engines again..."

i thought "tps or flapper MAF" This is a switch-type TPS, not the potentiometer "sensor", right? another possibility that you didn't mention (doesn't mean you didnt check) is that of water getting into a plug of some sort.. my 280Z had a very very similar FI system to the early soob setup, and if any water got under the hood it somehow found its way to the TPS plug, which had a bad boot and let water sit inside the recess of the plug itself.. as a result, I mashed the gas pedal, engine would happily rev up to about 2300, and totally DIE until the tach needle jumped back down to about 1700, at which point the engine was right as rain again. The MAF could have a similar issue, or either one could have a dirty contact anywhere in the sweep that isnt the "idle" band.

The switch in the dashboard that controls AC mode selection is a vacuum switch, and there are five or six lines hooked up to the back IIRC; one input and one for each position. If you start taking the gauge shroud apart (it isnt THAT major to figure out, and I can't recall specifics to walk you thru it) then either the leak should make itself apparent, or what minimal further disassembly you might need to do would be obvious. Getting your HANDS in there to slip the lines on, might not be as simple as figuring out how to pull it apart.. but its usually agreed upon that re assembly is truly the biggest PITA; regardless, it isn't THAT big of a deal. (says the lad who still hasn't gotten around to replacing his busted AC switch because, well, thats too much of a PITA right now :-p) I WILL say that my adventures in the top part of the dashboard were nowhere NEAR the nightmare that replacing the @#^$%#$ing turn signal blinker was.... THAT took me four or five hours, without a doubt the most difficult repair I have had to make on the car thus far. However, if you want to eliminate the leak to evaluate how the car will run (IE, "is this the whole problem?") then you could simply remove the vacuum line going from the engine to the canister at the rear passenger side of the engine bay, and pinch it off. Then, no vacuum is being lost in the AC controls whatsoever, and any running issue you still have will NOT be solved by dickering with the AC switch. In other words, pinch that vacuum supply line, and you have normality; anything you still cannot cope with is thenceforth your own problem.

Yes, this is a question about PVC in the PCV. Okay, so my engine cries oil. Some of it is power steering fluid (i think,) some is definitely weeping enthusiastically out of the drainplug (need new seal,) and generally speaking, 2/3 of my engine is covered in sandy greasy gunk. Obviously I need to clean it (even though it was sparkling in March after the HG job) but before I get into that, I want to fix KNOWN contamination issues like the drainplug, my popup oil dipstick, maybe the oil filler tube gasket, and DEFINITELY replace all the intake manifold vacuum lines (IAC and PVC etc) All of those lines have vapor "weep" evident at the T's, and the car has never had the "recall kit" installed bypassing the smaller vent on the reverse passenger side of the TB boot and connecting the two fat lines together. I have looked for the two little tees that would be needed in every soob I have seen in the junkyard, and today I set out to try to source two tees from ANY vehicle, as long as they would work... and got SKUNKED. SO, I am wondering if I could simply get a couple PVC tees (maybe the type used for sprinkler systems?) and use those, and some new hose from the parts store, to make my OWN "recall kit." My PCV valve is good; the lines are brittle and I doubt their capacities to form a good seal anymore. Would this be a bad idea?? Anyhow, from that point I degrease the engine, watch the steering pump, and either repair the leak or replace the pump with a dry looking JY unit, and see how much oil is still winding up everywhere in the engine bay... but thats beside the point. Thanks in advance for any comments.

if this "fix" was to install a relay that switched the IGN power circuit, instead of switching it all through the ignition cylinder, then my relay write up should be somewhat useful, if a bit cumbersome to mine for the data needed for this particular circuit.. when i wrote it I used headlights and starter control circuit as my two "examples" but the concept is the same. Relay has four wires going to it; a signal positive line, a "hi-amp" positive line, a "high amp" output terminal, and a terminal that the relay uses for grounding itself. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74632 Good luck with your problem; I'm just here to link you to the relay data if needed/wanted. Wish I could be of more assistance.

Our good friend Rick was not attempting to puff his ego up, although his mannerisms certainly do seem like it. Believe it or not, he is what he seems at face value: the type of person who has *probably* tried more than you (for whatever definition of the term "you" may be) and likely has at least some insight to the situation you are looking at. He will give you his honest and frank assessment, he puts his banner stating outright that he is an rump roast up there, and he presumes that you, as an individual, will be able to filter out any prejudices he had in his vision when he gave you his assessment of the situation. In other words, just because what he said sounded like he was being pompous about things.. Doesnt mean he is actually being a jerk. Jerkhood lies in the motivations, and honestly, he is just being plain and blunt. No pains taken to be overly friendly, nor is anything dumbed down to any level but his own. Now, this situation here arises simply because the man has very well known and deeply held feeling for the hitachi carburetors in question. While many have indeed had great experiences with these models, many many many more have found much solace in the simplicity and commonality of the Weber, just as those who had no clue how to tune a quadrajet were much more capable of utilizing the holley back in the sixties. The fact is plain and simple, that a weber carburetor is widely held one of the more reliable critters of mass production, whatever form it may take. The vast majority of the Hitachi fuel delivery systems were either straight copies of European designs (Datsun "SU" carburetors) or developed from such licensed products, and despite the various successes they had in duplicating others designs, there were regrettably also weeds in the crop. You could run with weeds, or you could have uber-mutated genetically Superior Ultra-Corn! (had to insert lame joke to lighten tone) Anyhow, my point to you, ginger, was that it really isn't worth it to get mad at GD for the way he acts. In time, it becomes evident that he only behaves like an rump roast; really, he's really smart, got great methodologies, and is extremely helpful, even when people specifically request that he abstain from answering on a topic In short, one of the more valuable members of the forum. So, in the meantime.. It doesn't do any good to fight him. That just makes it more fun for him Now if only decibels and kilobaud weren't being wasted on voices of less wisdom..... (NOT "pointed" at any member currently present in this thread)

this thread rocks, and I thought it would be a bunch of blah blah when I first saw the subject line. The shadetree mechanic/engineer's "education" has lots of little gaps in it. One just got filled Thanks!

ack! Lets pray for a horrible intake manifold gasket issue?? Good luck with the thanksgiving rebuild :-\ hopefully its much less involved than that.

It's all gravy; I just didn't want people hearing "10K on a blown headgasket" and thinking that its no big deal. My luck in life has been interesting; the GOOD luck comes in awkward packages like that one.

i *think* I may be the only one claiming 10K on a blown headgasket, and let me clarify a few things on that... it was an EA82, my compression numbers were 180, 180, 175, 145, the oil NEVER showed a trace of coolant, but the coolant got brown and icky, and was always bubbling into the overflow. I have logged an additional 8 or so K miles since changing the HGs, and she runs fine... but I have NEVER slept quite as easily as I did before, because I cannot shake the nagging feeling that I may have shortened the life of my bottom end from 600K miles to 300K..... I just saw Josch dropping that "10K miles on a blown headgasket comment" and realized maybe I have been a *bit* too loose with throwing that statement around.

Thats the OP, yourself, and yours truly sounding off on the pizza duty thus far.

what an rump roast!!! This seems to run contrary to virtually everything I have ever heard from you... why do you have an OHC engine in your BRAT? Don't answer with something like, "Because it hasn't blown up yet.." /hijack

That;s GREAT, thats exactly what I had to do before my first day of delivering Pizzas. It lasted me about three months, but I totally disassembled, cleaned, relubriacted, and re assembled the thing with three acceptable brushes (one great, one OK, one tolerable) and one brush that MAY have still been doing something... Three months of never hesitating to cut the car off at a delivery, but it eventually failed. Which makes this that much more poignant. Find a Junkyard starter. Do to it, what you have already done to your failed unit. Keep it in the car until the other one dies. Even WITH a fivespeed (I have a 3AT) its STILL a royal PITA when you have no starter. IN the meantime, though, I would say +1 on what my dad called "the cuban rebuild"

Picture a sidedraft two barrel weber, like what would be run on a datsun engine.. Except its a downdraft carb, meant to be pointing the right way to install over half of a boxer engine. Personally, my dream buggy or airboat engine would be an SVX engine with some of those on it (of course, unless I could somehow get something absurdly experimental like that F1 engine, heh...) EDIT I did some snooping.... sorry for the huge by large image, but when I saw this I was awestruck.... Bigblock with weber goodness: 48mm butterflies, for the record. Ooompy.

the other starter will work. If tapping it makes a difference, then its probably the starter at fault; if you replace the starter and get the same symptoms, look for my relay info writeup in the USRM electrical section.. that will tell you ALL you want to know about the likely culprit, should another starter behave the same way. My swiss-cheese sedan is a pizzamobile, too.. so I feel for you. I was having starter problems when I FIRST got the job, shortly before joining here... It adds up. Sometimes you hit that key 20-30 times in a night without blinking at it....

and and and and other ways of expressing emotion via interweb. Really, the only word that comes to mind, for some strange reason, is "ooooompy..." You should find a way to run that off of LPG and up the compression to like, 10:1

top right of the screen. USRM= Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual. click. browse. grow.

hate to post an "i think so," but my recollections tend to mesh with what was stated above.. the hydros were all large valve, but some later solids were also large valve. I wouldn't bother saying anything, but since you've only gotten one "I think so" thus far, I figured I would double that count.

B-210. Think Sentra. I have always called them Maxima, Medima, and Minima, honestly.... 810, 510, 210. Maxima, Stanza, Sentra... the 200SX and 240SX fit in with the 210/sentra and 510/stanza/altima, while the 810/maxima always shared the engine of its contemporary Zcar. If you're looking at solid rear axles, think japanese truck. Stronger. Possibly RX-7, too.. THAT might net you an LSD, but I know nothing definite about that. And yah, the 210s were ugly... its a face that only a mother could love. 45 MPG cant be argued with, though; not in 1972, and not now.

so this was for a tractor? I still bet there is an alternator somewhere in the junkyard that you could have fit on, and then found new for under $200. All any alternator does is make electricity; the trickiest part is getting one that will bolt in and line up, and thats ALOT easier than is commonly thought.

What kind of noise/dust did these softer pads wind up giving you? I have to deal with this ASAP, before my pads get too thin and my rotors get damaged.. I don't want to go through all that. Thanks for the advice, I don't think I would have really gone in this direction but after thinking about it for a few days, it only makes sense.

I'll see if I can dig this info up, but 4.10 sounds right to me.. although datsun 3.9 rear diffs shouldnt be too hard to find.