daeron

what kind of engine, what alternator?? Give me a picture. There has GOT to be an easy substitution part; its JUST an alternator. Internal or external regulator? Give me a couple detailsm and I will help you figure out if there is an easy way around this or whether any substitution would be more pain than its worth.

Yah, they actually are. The markup is a bit higher than it would be for a racing engine, but thats only on the engine packages. When you consider that for 10 grand, you get 140 horse engine complete turnkey, with fuel management and everything, ready to hook up to the reduction drive unit for your airplane... Thats not bad. Piston sets at 5-600? not cheap, but not astronomical. Performance costs MONEY. Lots of it. We just aren't used to it.

TWO HOURS!! thats TANTALIZINGLY close.. good job! That volvo is a great choice of car to do this sort of thing in.. any chance of getting their fuel volume? They aren't exactly gas pigs....and they are pretty good sized, comfy inside, and RWD. As long asyou can keep the thing running right, its a great car for this. Of course, so is the soob.. but I have a soft spot in my heart (some would say in my head too :-p) for volvos of an early 90s vintage or older.

From what I have read of the experience of others, EA series rods tend to knock for a very short time, then jump out of the block. It sounds very much like lifter noise.. very BAD lifter noise, but its gonna get loud if one is totally collapsed and you have to rev the engine to keep it running. If you have to do the headgaskets anyway, then you ought to tear the heads off and see.. for all you know, you could have run with it like this for too long and possibly damaged the rocker arm. However, its not easy to just say "TOD" when you can't fish your ear around the engine bay and listen for a source yourself. Try getting a bigass screwdriver, sticking the base of the handle against your ear, and touching the tip to the engine in various places while its running to see if you can localize the noise.. if it is coming from the head I would say 90% chance of lifter noise, possibly all the lfiters on a side from a sucked in cam carrier o-ring.. 85 model? thats before they switched to metal-reinforced... Don't get discouraged yet

I Think he meant, removing the crap for the carb, that was there to make that carb work right..... and then wondering why that carb didnt work right. NOT Just, modifying in general. On a related note, I have always wanted to get a cross-hair or a bullethole tattoo'd on the top of my foot......

oh i know.... its still good beer though, and that wee inscription goes back a LOOONG ways in my head. Most of the beer I drink is either amber bock, or microbrew stuff... Left Hand, Dogfishhead, a couple euro brews, GOOD stuff. NOT mass-market beer.. its rare for me to enjoy one of the megaliths so much, so I pretend to be the ignorant consumer about brands I DO like

the best and simplest advice I have heard, in a nutshell. PT head gaskets, OEM brand intake manifold gaskets and cam case O rings (possibly called cam arrier o-rings) metal reinforced, both OEM brands are available from http://www.thepartsbin.com. Then buy an el-cheapo "headgasket set" or "gasket set" on ebay or from your local parts store (apparently available for around 30 bucks) to get all the other little odds and ends. One piece of advice is to take any cork gaskets that will see oil and coat them with a thin layer of RTV type goop, then let them set up before installing them.. "rubberizing" the gasket and helping it last longer. This should only be done in certain cases, though, so use discretion (tip of the hat to GD, the champion of this trick.) It is not a major job, this engine could be ALOT more difficult to work on (although it has its quirks...) http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm has a partial FSM that you can download that covers the engine mechanical, SPFI fuel injection, cooling system, and some electrical IIRC. That helps alot. Good luck, and don't forget to check out the USRM For some pre-job reading to familiarize yourself some more with the procedures.

may also have gotten some visual obstruction down in the optical wheel in the distributor.. try taking the rotor off, and removing the two screws holding the little dust cover off, and make sure the slotted wheel down there is fairly clean and that there is no foreign matter in there. Make sure the distributor shaft has no play.. nobody has said that yet, so I added it as a final thought.

From the glass-lined tanks of Old Latrobe, we tender this premium Beer for your enjoyment. Rolling Rock was my FIRST favorite beer, and I just had it on tap for the first time a couple weeks back.. Felt like being fifteen again! /hijack

I need to fill up now and check the actual consumption numbers, because its been over a year (and a pair of headgaskets) since I had a full tank of gas... but my estimate is the 20 ballpark I REALLY need to do something about it, and the investigation is on very soon. 3.20 a gallon and rising, for ~100 miles a day, maybe average 400+ miles a week.. that 20% adds up quickly. I do mutilate the throttle, but I would think I should be pulling more than 20 mpg.. I got 25 before. Anyhow, I'll figure my problem out in the next week or so; I just wanted to post it for comparison.

Thanks for all the advice so far. The picture is beginning to fall together. Its amazing how many little gaps in your knowledge hoard the "shadetree" training method leaves sometimes. Experience can only teach you so much.. without having someone to answer questions for you.

allright everyone, I am here to admit that I am clueless about brake pad materials. In the past, prices have always ALWAYS dictated my selection, and I have never really been able to notice much difference between any pad materials I have gotten... but now, I am delivering pizzas for a living. 100 miles a day makes a fellow want to know whats stopping his car, yanno? The front pads on the GL-10 are starting to chatter a bit, and I figure its time for new pads and brake hardware now, before they start digging into the rotor at all. So, when I came to this conclusion, I realized that I really have no clue what the difference between semi-metallic, organic, and all the other compounds actually IS.... I have heard snippets here and there, but I was wondering if anyone had a good link to a page that broke it all down. While price is not THE object here, it is still AN object.. so I am not looking for a "recommendation" at ALL, I want to know the difference. I am tired of my buddies asking me this question and having to admit complete ignorance on the matter; most of my "car guy" friends don't know as much as I do, so they kinda look up to me for answers in many regards. In this matter I have utterly failed them and I want to put an end to that. I tried searching wikipedia, but I didn't want to wade through the flood of results that a google search would turn up. a minimal google search turned up this from partsamerica.com: which is a decent primer... but it is a bit simpler than what I was looking for. I will continue to search a bit, but I thought I would ask my compatriots for some assistance on this one. TIA!

yah, I'm just a goofball sometimes. :-p I never would have posted that pic, if I hadn't looked up the lyrics to a bloodhound gang song name "Ralph Wiggum" before you posted this thread...

Good Show! There should be detailed info on how to swap an EA82 five speed into the car in the USRM.. its probably for a 4wd tranny, and I can't recall if you are 4wd or FWD right now, but if you are FWD its just a little simpler. What I am saying is, despite the fact that I know nothing firsthand about the swap, I have gathered two things: 1. its best to go for the EA82 fivespeed and 2. its about as straightforward as it gets, the trickiest part is making sure you have the right flywheel/clutch combo. I am vaguely planning on losing the 3AT in my 87 sometime soon. for a while my User Title was "3ATs happen..."

dont worry about the power steering.. the power steering pump only puts a drag on the engine when the steering wheel is BEING TURNED... in other words, drive straight, no drain, approach a turn, and while the wheel is turning the steering pump saps a little energy, once the wheel achieves its maximum turn, no more power drain, the return back to straight is achieved mostly by the inertia of the car and proper caster setup on the front wheels. In other words, the oil pump is about 50 times more of a power drain than your power steering pump. So is the water pump. So is the alternator. Heck, when you figure the electrical drain, and thus the physical load the alternator has to put on the engine to compensate, your stereo is probably almost as much power drain as your power steering pump. tires: wider tires do in fact increase rolling resistance.... but man, I switched my GL10 to 185-70s and never looked back. The increase in cross-wind stability i got in the car alone was more than worth any mileage penalty i paid, and any penalty was minimal. TALLER tires will give you an increase in cruising fuel economy, because they decrease the gear ratio and you achieve more real MPH per RPM than you would with shorter tires... but the tradeoff here is that you lose acceleration, which IMHO is a very very precious commodity in 80s subaru land, not to be given away lightly. (Then again, I did land in my 3at soobie after driving a 280Z for five years, so maybe I am speed-spoiled :-p )

speek fer yerself, laydee. I aint never met no better speeker of eenglish than me.

the oil pump completely stopped working.... but you dont have a gauge? how did you know it stopped working?? if the engine ran for any length of time with zero oil pressure then you have no guarantees... but if the temp gauge only got 3/4 of the way up (AND IF IT IS ACCURATE) then the engine probably did not suffer any damage from the overheat alone.... best of luck.

My first guess was improper distributor installation, or inaccurate timing.. you DID shoot the timing with a light, right? anyhow, then I read this: Got a louisville slugger? from what I gather, that is the only tool that is able to properly calibrate the feedback carbs.... all the way to the scrap heap. any chance of converting you to the Weber side of the force? or SPFI? as many problems as people have with the NON feedback hitachi carbs... and given how few feedback carbs there are compared to standard hitachis... the feedback carb comes up with problems FAR more often than even the standard hitachi carb. Sorry to be the one to tell you. :-\

Rick.. I have had the KING of all bad days, topping off an awful weekend. thanks for the gut-wrenching laugh.

And so, for the second time in five minutes, I must post this. Daeron == Anyhow, good luck with the XT, whether its this one or another. I'll go back to my corner now :-p

so, roughly 3200 pounds..... PER INCH of thickness then. 6400-9600 pounds, thats 3-5 tons.. close enough. Heck, my guess was much more accurate than I thought it was!! :-p

Blasphemy! Congratulations, Connie. That should make for an ego boost any time you look at your keychain

I wouldn't bother responding with such vague notions, but since its been a few hours since your post and no one more knowledgeable than I has stepped up, I will add a +1 to the points made in the above post you seem to have a grasp on what areas will need the work.. the pistons and rods will fit just fine. Turbo choice need not be limited to anything; your manifolds will be one-off so you can use whatever snails you can get your hands on/you prefer. HOPEfully the work won't be any more major than you seem to understand it to be already; this is something I want to see. The RX should have a HAIR more space under the hood to play with than the XT itself did, but you will quite possibly run into a need to alter the engine X-member extensively.. either a stock RX X-member, to fit the turbos and the 6 cyl, or the stock XT6 member, to fit the turbos and the RX.

I dunno, Bart seems pretty short to me..... :-p

I dont even have a CLUE where to begin estimating the weight of that piece of steel. Not the slightest glimmering of an idea. 2 tons, three? Four or more? If it were plywood it would probably only weigh about 300-500 pounds, but steel is a good bit heavier. You need to think your ideas through a little further before posting them, my friend.