daeron

well take the switch unit out, and make sure it goes through the proper sequence of positions by itself. then try operating the keylock by itself and see what that does. it could be that you have a switch from the wrong car as well, that would not be shocking considering the intelligence and knowledge level of most parts store personnel. they do their best but this is an obscure car and they are poorly informed.. and thats hard for them to cope with sometimes. you just cant presume they are infallible like you could if you had a ford. (of course, normally, your CAR is more infallible than a ford, so its a tradeoff.) sorry i cant help any more, but im trying to give advice cuz i had the same problem a long time ago (well five or six years) on one of my first cars.. and had to figure it out the hard way. i bought an old datsun 280Z and had to find a keyswitch for it before i could register it.. so i was really excited to do so, which means i made many stupid mistakes....so i figured id tell you anything i could, and bump the thread at the same time.

yah, im glad someone else went ahead and posted the math.. 1.5 inch tube should be big enough though. 1.25 inch would actually be a bit better flowing than a single 1.75 inch tube.. i am assuming that as the size of the exit from your catalytic converter... so just to provide a reference point. you might actually benefit from having a less than wide open exhaust past the collector, and the difference in area between two 1.25s and one 1.75 is minimal.. the 1.25 is about 2.46 sq inches and the 1.75 is about 2.41 sq inches... and the two 1.5 inch pipes would be about 3.54 sq inches. two 1 inch pipes would only give you an area of about 1.57 sq inches. if you want to figure on your 2.25 inch pipe (i dont know where that starts in the line of things) then the area of that is about 3.98 sq inches. So, assuming you have an outlet from the cat of 1.75 inch, then the flow from a pair of 1.25 inch pipes is 2% higher, the flow from the 1.5s is 47% higher, the 1 inch is 35% lower, and the flow assuming 2.25 inch pipe straight out of your catalytic converter is 65% higher than the stock sized pipe.. but i dont know where your bigger pipe starts. is that just towards the back?? because if it gets that big after a decent length of 1.75 then the smaller pipe restricts it enough that you can just assume the smaller size for the purposes of comparing what youre considering building. It sounded like you might be trying to fit in a small space, so i thought i would mention that 2x1.25 inch pipe flows a _little_ better than single 1.75, but 1.5 is a bigger improvement.

yah, for real.. appraisal might not be the right route, but if you can prove it is worth a given value to your insurance agent, they can make a note of that for just such an occasion.. you can at least talk to him about it. If he says youre crazy, call a state farm agent. They will be happy to talk you through the details, because its worth doing. You will probably pay more in insurance payments on the car then they will pay you in claims... its a statistical certainty. they are happy to oblige you in making a predetermined value statement on your car, specifically for this purpose. My brother managed to get over 4,000 for his 91 miata when it got totaled out just based on aftermarket parts... and then one of our best friends found the car as soon as it hit the junkyard, and got the rebuilt motor with the hot ported head, the AFM, the exhaust, the header, the suspension bits.. for like 100 bucks total. a good time was had by all :- )

i havent played with the subarus, but i have seen the actual switch units, so i imagine the locks function simlar to the nissan ones.. because the siwtch is almost the same, except for the plug. both hitachi, or kanto-seiki, or niles, or something like that... anyhow, it sounds like you have the switch oriented wrong inside the lock.. am i right in presuming that there is a lock mechanism that you put the key into, and then that cylinder turns.. and it has a screwdriver head looking thing, that fits into and actuates a switch you bolt onto the bottom, right? because it sounds like that switch need to be rotated a little bit.. it sounds like you are moving the keylock from lock to the next available space, but the switch is not going all the way back to Off and Lock position.. so you need to rotate it in the lock cylinder somehow. see if it can bolt up different. this is just a swag, but these keylock ignition switches all function on the same idea, so i hope this helps.

i think his point was, there is "my car catching on fire" and "My Car Caught On Fire!".. if i had a leaking return fuel line, and my exhaust rusted through, and the sparks caused a piece of rubber with gas on it to ignite and burn.... i wouldnt call the car a fireball... yah, you found a nice, original way to have a fire in your car.. but seriously, i wouldnt say its cause to call it a hazard.. more of a cry for help from the car. "Lean me out, subsforever, lean me out!! i can get a bit better mileage, and you know, maybe the coils of my radiator would like to be degreased!!" as for buying cheap drivetrain/suspension parts.. we all have to fight that battle. i havent had TOO many of the cheap parts ive bought and installed fail prematurely.. but when i did, it didnt make me mad.. i just sorta hung my head a little. dont scrap it because some sparks somehow actually caught on something! if it wanted to die, it would have burned to a crisp. cars dont take death wishes lightly. when they wanna die, they DIE, in fashion.

O K.... This is a long post. Towards the end, i put down several page breaks, and the words TO RECAP... if you wanna just read an abstract hit that part first. the rest of the epic is just filling in every last detail of my cooling issue with my car. if anyone actually has any points that need clarification, then i may be upset i made everyone read this whole thing, because im trying to avoid having any more questions asked of me, yanno?? anyhow, read on. So, i got up early this morning and went to the boneyard. there was an additional wagon at the cheaper place (it wasnt there saturday.) and upon popping the hood, it had what appeared to be a BRAND new radiator in it. (this is not the yard i found the new plugwires and disty cap in, its their next door neighbor.) it was a single core, but so was mine. Rad and reservoir topped off with what appeared to be pure coolant, and i almost squeaked. i had planned on just nabbing the rad and the stock electrical fan out of the other one. This car had 101K on it, so the radiator probably just "went bad" and got replaced... its not OEM i dont think, it had a made in .. well, i cant recall the country now. i dont think it was thailand, taiwan, indonesia, or malaysia... but it was something in that vicinity... NOT japan, it had metal tanks and was shiny black. it DID have what appeared to be a brand new fan shroud, and that had a brand new subaru part sticker on it. nabbed both, and the fan out of the other car. 35 bucks and i can get a 7 dollar core refund.. and i hald the fan bolted to the radiator, and just showed them the blank side... innocently enough, and they HAD quoted me 25 on saturday.... but i got away with it, so i paid nada for what wouldve been a 12 dollar fan. on the other hand, it was untested and unwarranted... so it was a bit of a risk that i was getting nothing for nothing.. Anyhow, the fan worked good, the radiator works well, my old one was on its way out.. it had lost a decent amount of finning to time, oxidation, and mistreatment over 20 years and 140K.. and, somehow i had also failed to notice how godawfully gummed up with road grime the thing was. seriously, any cooling issues i had probably couldve been solved by cleaning it, and taking out the thermostat (which i also did today). Anyhow, the entire reason for this foray was this.. Never had any problems with heat in the car, until one day the thermostat started to stick.. no big deal, put a new thermostat in. the old one was 160, the new one 180. I have the 87 green digidash, which has a temp guage with ten bars on it.. the bottom bar is dead cold to something... low. maybe 110, 115? before i ever had any thermo problem, it ran at the third tick mark... religiously. on a hot day, it would pop up to the fourth bar. afterwards, it ran hotter (naturally) but it also heated up above its standard running temp (then either 4 or 5 bars) occasionally. not seriously, but it never had before. fast forward to about mid may, the car suddenly overheated. on the road, in the middle of a night of pizza delivering. thought i saw steam from the vicinity of the water pump.I nursed it back to the store, and let it cool off, filled it up with water, drove home stopping to check occasionally.. and eventually discovered that the upper rad hose was blown around the clamp.. so i replaced.. but then started leaking again, and i confirmed that there was an issue at the water pump. replaced it, and im still losing coolant. no leaks, no drips, but it took me a while to eventually decide that i wasnt just still burping out air pockets i hadnt flushed out of the system yet. Once you pour a few gallons of water in the thing, total, you eliminate air bubbles as a possibilty. I followed procedure, ive known about this since i was a wee lad, my dad taught me to do it with every car.. i have just come to learn that the soob community NEEDS to use my hose burping trick. Anyways, im living with it, adding water, and seeing temperature spikes. some of the time it was caused by cavitation in the water pump from low levels, im sure.. and by spikes i mean its getting up to the 8-10th bars.. the top two are red.. and dropping back down to at least relatively normal temp (~4-6 bars) quickly, and usually all at once (ie guage goes from nine bars = red to five bars) Sometimes it takes longer than others, sometimes it doesnt cool off as quick, but it never stayed red for any period of time.. rarely even got that high. Most of the time, im convinced it was a sticking thermostat. It behaved too cut and dry exactly like that for it not to be the case. however, there was more going on, and i think i may need head gaskets. i feel the new thermostat probly got overheated at one point, and got I had coolant bubbling out into the reservoir for some time.. and upon doing this job, i may well have had the battery squashing the radiator overflow hose this whole time... not completely restricting flow back into the radiator, but severely limiting it... I also have the aftermarket fan that my brother put on.. It has a smaller footprint than the stock fan does, but it sure seems to blow air real good.. however, (i know, i know, this ones my fault) it was only ever held in place by one bolt, at the top outside corner of the radiator. the little plastic zip tie thingy that was holding the other corner down, so the fan actually sat flush against the rad to draw air thru it... that thingy broke a long time ago.. and the fan has been sucking air from around it, not directly over the condensor/radiator. turning on the AC sometimes seems to aggravate it, sometimes it seems fine.. but in the long run using AC accelerated the rate at which i lost water. Now, enter the fan questions... this aftermarket fan has a stock plug spliced onto it. It turns on with the key, off with the key.. regardless of temp, or AC status. the stock plug only has one wire actually spliced onto the fan; the ground wire has to be grounded somewhere manually. (thermostat housing, the bolt that holds the vaccum lines down) When i plugged the stock fan i got today into the car's wiring harness, it did not work. I verified that the fan works, and i tried turning on the AC, and i let it heat up to three bars on the meter.. that was as high as i got it parked in the driveway, AC on, without actually driving it. Driving with AC, it eventually gets up to four bars now. YAY it cools good, no sticking, no hotspot. My question, i guess, is this. These fans get constant live power whenever the accesories are on, and the ground is switched by the thermoswitch???? which thermoswitch is this? should i bother finding the reason why my fan wont turn on the "right" way or should i go ahead and cut the wires on the stock fan to wire it up the same way my aftermarket fan is?? i left the aftermarket on there (properly secured this time) because it was alot easier to postpone cutting the wire on the stock fan, than putting it back together later if i changed my mind. and, just to make sure, no thermostat, south florida.. the cooler the better, right?!??? ive never had any problems with cold weather. not like, with my car.. i mean, ive seen freezing temperatures a few times in the last couple years. is there ANY realistic detriment to running without the thermostat? is running with only three bars on that digital guage in some strange way "running too cold?" I cant see any problem with this, ive read people saying no thermostat is fine all year long blah blah.. but i am seriously ruling out alternative diagnoses to "blown headgasket" by way of replacing the radiator here.. i dont have access to real tools etc, so its one thing for me to pull and swap a radiator and a fan, but i have to be at the shop to check compression and leak down test and theres all sorts of family politics involved in working at the shop and i dont have much time to dedicate to a field trip to work on my car... because the shop is a day trip, and the rad swap is a driveway thing, at my house. So, to recap.. i had some thermostat issues, that were mostly solved, but it never ran so perfectly cool again.. (160* to a 180*, so yah..) but it got hot on occasion, where it never had before. i wound up blowing a rad hose and a water pump... but didnt overheat too seriously at any point. it got to the red, but i cooled it off okay because when it overheated on me big-time, it was cavitating and eventually found itself something at least. cooled down. replaced water pump, and now have removed (semi-new) thermostat and replaced radiator (and hoses). Properly secured elec. fan, no block flushing yet. my buddy has a machine, i wanna do that soon, and then if im not leaking fill up with full antifreeze.. as much for anti rust as anything else. I want to get the stock elec fan working on the thing, but i dont know if i should just chop the plug and wire it like the existing aftermarket fan is wired, or if its reasonable to find and fix the problem. My aftermarket fan fits in the fan shroud for the clutch fan, so i might just remove that and try both electrics.. but how does the fan get switched, if its still set up as from factory? and, if i still keep losing coolant, and getting some hotspots, and experiencing some boil-off into the overflow.. these things do point me further on the road to headgasket right? one final point.. i noticed that my new locking stant radiator cap had a tendency to leak some steam into the reservoir whenver i touched it, at ALL while the engine was hot, and not running. is this a problem? should i try to put a second rubber gasket in there to fill up a bit of space? is the rad cap just behaving as it should? thanks for the reading the long post. like i said, i dont get alot of time to do any mainline work, because i have few tools at my house. I do, however, get alot of time to think and talk about my car... which is why that was so long. hopefully the little abstract at the end saved some people some time... :-\

do you have the proper dessicant? because if your car was equpped with R12 in the first place, that needs to be swapped as well. Im no AC expert but ive learned a great deal in the last year or two, and all on my soob.. My older brother owned the car before me, and he earned his ASE A/C certificate while he was repairing the AC on this car, and it apparently USED to blow ice cold. he cared for the car, but drove it to hell and back, and didnt REALLY care for it as a mecahnic should.. more as a mechanic knew he could get away with. Nothings really bad about the car except for neglected rust.. but it has been driven, not babied by a mechanic.. nuff said. Anyhow, i got the car needing timing belts. did that, no clue what i was getting into beyond having done t-belts on a sohc geo/isuzu motor a few times (long story) and a nightmare with my buddy's 97 honda accord DOHC.. it was a 2.2 liter motor i think, and any mecahnics out there or anyone whos done a t-belt on the motor i did knows it... it was a PITA, but i got it done in the end (extra cash between jobs once. bad times.) so i did the belts on the soob np problem, but lost the bolts that hold the little pulse sensor thingy in front of the AC compressor. (note: if the term "pulse sensor thingy in front of the compressor" makes NO sense to you whatsoever, you are missing a little piece.) i found replacements, but poor ones, it held, but the ac never really worked good. probly needed charging then anyhow. six months later its summer and i try charging it... discover he never changed the valves to r-134 style, did that, and finally had him come over with his manifold, and we charged it right, but it barely worked... nada plus a sliver, in the heat of the south florida summer day.... at night, it blew cool. fast forward a year, that thingy has shaken loose and the wire got severed, so i replaced, got proper bolts, turned on AC, Lo and Behold, it blew cold!! cold enough, in the daytime!! i havent topped off the refrigerant yet (there was an issue that prevented from filling it 100% last year) but i just cleaned the condensor, and secured the aftermarket fan to the radiator at more than one point ( ) and its blowing even colder. i dont know why i told you my tale, but you get the point.. that pulse sensor thing is important. its part of a mechanism that tells the car that the compressor is in fact, running. without it, the car thinks, hey.. its not doin nothin... that was how (i think it was GeneralDisorder) explained it to me anyhow. Its also exactly what i thought, i just never thought to check the alignment and tightness of the thing, i guess. minimal effort, it bites you sometimes.

heh, in your situation the last thing i would want is more work to do..but I'll say it anyway... How does the engine bay look?? because if you are cleaning the motor up, and re sealing everything, it would be a good time to clean up the engine bay, or maybe even repaint it.. ive seen people use rock-gard material, or something akin to spray on truck bedliner in their engine bay with stellar results.. and i mean, yah, that may be overkill.. but i thought id drop the idea of an engine bay detailing in youre head too. I only thought of it because i just entered a thorough engine bay cleaning into my own list of priorities, after a radiator swap....

well if a crapload of water disappeared thats not a good sign.. but i will let the sages tell you more about that, because i still have some questions myself about how a headgasket blows. I was wishing i had the knowledge and time to do a nice, friendly write-up on different ways these cars blow headgaskets, symptoms, sometimes its oil being burnt, sometimes water being burnt, sometimes water and oil are switching places, sometimes you just lose compression, sometimes its multiple or all of the above.. so what happens differently in each case? a write-up like that in the USRM would save some posts, probably... but of course, its easy for me to say someone else should do a write up., i guess..:-\ but i still say someone oughta do it, any voolunteers? :brow: anyhow, when you fill up the motor with water, once you get the radiator full you need to let the water level trickle down a bit and burp the hose, repeatedly, until its full.. and then what i like to do is leave the rad cap off and start the car, let it get up to temp and slowly add more water until it fills up. I frequently have to fill it to the brim, let it slowly trickle down a bit, then burp a good bit of air out about three or four times while its warm (beyond ALL i can do with engine cold and thermostat shut) before it is really "full" but if you can do a compression test and a leak down check, it would be advisable. to me you seem to be describing a headgasket, but as i said, the sages are more knowledgeable than I.

we should have the thread moved over to the USRM, or maybe someone could do a quick write-up on how the system is laid out and how this problem could occur......

i have to say its great to see people on this site helping other people like that. i also have to say i wish i didnt live all the way down in the tip of florida.. there is approximately about 15% of the real estate within a 350 mile radius of me, as there is most anyone else on this forum, i think.. i mean seriously.. 350 miles north is just to jacksonville.. ive got about 120 miles west before the gulf, and about five east before the atlantic, and about eighty south until you drive off the peninsula and into the straits of florida/the gulf stream.... but alas, i can cope.

holy cow i posted my last reply before looking at day ten.. yah, alot of shops wont do anything beyond a wet sand with like 1400, and a double buff... so to have sanded at 1000, then wet sanded at 2000, then dry sanded again with 3000, THEN do a cut, and a polish (im assuming you probably used a slightly more abrasive compound on the first buff than the second anyhow...).. then yah, you can expect to be able to see the underside of your roof rack rails :- ) i think you might need to censor some of those roof rack pics, the underside of these things isnt usually exposed so BLATANTLY.. (if you havent looked at the pics you need to) I mean seriously... its like the roof of the car is a mirror to inspect the underside of the man's roof rack!!! that is what i call a paint job. I cannot wait to see the final reveal pictures of this car.

wow man that is something else.. you are doing so much high grit sanding that this is gonna be as smooth a paint job as possible.. you wont wanna drive your soob anywhere! its gonne be a beautiful finish, when you are uhm, well, finished....

why not do the crank seals as well?? the rear especially, would be impossible to do without pulling the engine again... and with 80,000 miles, and then ten years sitting, they cant be too good even if they arent leaking...

hey, thanks for the great replys to my thread jack. I got a good summary to confirm my vague idea.. which is exactly all i need for now. I have about forty or fifty 280Z injectors, actually.. im gonna celan and flow test them all, because i have a 280Z that im rebuilding.. the soob is the daily driver, and we got like 8 intakes that i stripped.. I also have some NOS OEM radiators and mufflers, i believe for ea-81s but may be too early to be of much use.. c. 1980 i think was our guess, but that was before i joined the forum. ive only read up on soobs as long as ive been a member, and i havent actually seen these parts in a bit more than a year now, so my recollection is hazy and my knowledge when i saw them was scanty, to say the least. they looked too fat for my car. but when i can mine into these parts and start auctioning them off to ppl here, then i will be doing so at a bargain.. im thinking 50 bucks for a brand new radiator should get some buyers.. but thats neither here nor there, im just babbling. thanks again.

.... THAT sucks. i have gotten no seatbelt tickets when i had the seatbelt on... either the cop thought he saw me putting it on as i was being pulled over, or she was mad because she thought i was drunk and pulled me over (i was grabbing for the cigarette lighter that had popped ALL the way out in the floor) but the other cop did the "keep your eye on the pen" test and walked away chuckling that she thought i was drunk... so she wrote me one.. ive gotten them for "instead of" a speeding ticket, and ive gotten them "instead of" .. ahem, other things. But having to go pay a ticket for a seatbelt, when you are a serious seatblet believer.. ESPECIALLY if you say that the proper way is worse for you than improperly, as you had it on.. (not to sound like a jerk stating the obvious, but..) next time try and slip your arm into the right place.. because they are technically right, even if you say the law is wrong for you... yanno?

no way.. i just opened up the FSM .pdf and it says the NA 2wd SPFI is 84 hp, the turbo MPFI across the board is 115, and the 4wd sedans, and all NA SPFI wagons are listed at 90 hp. in that partial 1990 loyale FSM that floats around, at least. so it was a read-o, i guess sometimes acrobat reader sucks, huh? but.. was 140 hp all that much to ask given simple things like exhaust and intake? thats pretty much what i meant, maybe basic ignition stuff too.. like a hotter coil or something.

thats about exactly what i thought, except i didnt realize there were THREE of them... im relatively new to soobs, and obviously general disorder, is not. but i would say hes probably right about them wanting redundancy in there.. and lets not forget these are inexpensive little cars. if its there, what are the odds it might be superfluous?

great googelly moogelly, what a friggin mess! i like people like you. i find people who tell me stories like you, and become their friends. I am people like you. what you just described has quite simply turned all the motivation to work on my car that i have gained from this site in the last four months, into thin air!! i WAS contemplating swapping out my auto for a 5spd, becuase it sounds and seems simple!! but now im thinking, no, maybe these cars ARENT immune to the chaos-storm that always seems to accompany any mechanical job i do... IE, replace brake rotors etc, and suddenly after bleeding everything, the car wont run.. that was my datsun 280Z, and it was a fualty FI component connection (i forget which part, but still.. didnt touch it, never had a problem before, and bam, stops running when i change the brakes.) my little brother blew the motor in his 300ZX up one time by replacing his front brake pads.. changed em, test drove, parked the car back at the shop for a moment, and it started knocking.. they hit the gas a little, to see the reaction.. and it reacted from going thunk-tunk-tunk to WHOP WHOP WHOP POW!!!!!! no more motor. weve got these cute little irish gremlins on our backs called leprechauns.... the bloody ironic thing is, most people think theyre GOOD luck.. its good luck to SEE a leprechaun, because that means he isnt perched on your back, gnawing into your neck where it meets the shoulder...... keep truckin man, youve got the car thats worth it (turbo 5spd awd) when youre done, it will be worthy (and not so unjustifiable) to spend a bit on getting a wee intercooler up there to boost you that much more, too. BTW, anyone care to swag on the HP of a more or less stock EA82T with an intercooler added? i know i read stock HP was like 119.. would an IC get you to 140 range? how high can you get an ea82t with a stock engine, adding only bolt-on parts? like, simple, down to earth stuff.. no bigger injectors.. im tlaking things like a hotter coil pack, etc.. is there really all that much "simple bolt-on" upgrades for a turbo motor like it?? because im not talking about a redesign so much as an optimization.. and i ask for future reference, as a conceptual ceiling for power on a vehicle that would NOT be me primary project/go fast car, but would be a daily driver type thing... because i have a 280Z that (god help me, if my family ever gets the projects already at the shop taken care of....) WILL be my project baby soon... but im thinking about trying to pick up a turbo soob to replace my GL10 as the auxiliary vehicle when the GL finally falls into its component subsystems... and im wondering what the power ceiling is with upgrades of a low "giveadamn" factor.....

is it possible that your just feeling the effects of torque steer, from a much more powerful motor than you are used to? because i have a sluchbox (a/t) it took me a long time to realize that was torque steer that jerked my car around that little bit... i had just never thought of it, until i read so many comments about torque steer in the "you know youre a soob owner if..." post... and i was like, Yah, no duh, its a TINY bit of torque steer!! .. so maybe, youre used to a TINY bit, and now youve got oodles??? just a thought... i know it sounds dumb, but the dumb non-probelmatic possibilities are often overlooked while troubleshooting.. i know its one of the thousands of ways i personally enjoy making my own life that much more difficult than it has to be... :banghead:

yah, i finally got around to my ignition tune-up, and am reading thru the partial FSM pdf that floats around.. i forget where i found he link before anyone asks, and i could send it.. maybe, somehow, but its big. it seems a bit beyond my grasp at first perusal, but im sure if i print the pages out and go thru the procedures step by step i should be okay... and anyhow, my point was that i wanted to know about trouble codes being possible (under the radar) so to speak... because if there is a more comprehensive self diagnosis mode to put the computer in before i go doing the compnent checks, I would far rather do that.. im trying to plan my attack as thoroughly as possible, because i really dont get alot of free time to work on this thing. so, i ask before i had done my plugs etc, and said yah i know i need to do those first, and took that as a given, and assumed it probly wouldnt fix my problem because the problem is more shirty than that. However, there are times when i say, approach a left turn in a divided highway.. pull across one lane of traffic, and kinda coasting to double check my aperture before pulling in front of people, and then i hit the fuel pedal and the engine almost totally dies for half a second, then wakes back up. This is is only symptom of any problem ive experienced that i even really understand enough to BEGIN to relate "what my car is doing.." as i said, there is something sneaky going on with either spark or ignition, or something... but before i go into any long FI compnent testing procedure and probly rip my entire intake off to test it bit by bit.... i want to be sure i have to do that. I want to figure out why im running a little hot (sparks where white when i removed them, but no inordinate physical wear so to speak..) i want to check compression and do a leak-down test (if needs be) and i want to shoot the timing, and get that set perfect. i dont think we ever timed it with a light (my brother and I) and so its "pretty close.." which can only be pretty bad. At the very least, something is causing me to spit a tiny tiny bit, but almost constantly at idle... so can i really just plug the test mode connector in with the engine running, and look down to my LED and see if i have any ECU-detectable compnent faults? or do i plug it in and start it, and it does it, or what? i read the tables, and they state a given scenario (engine on, this one plugged, this one not) they dont say plug it together, then start.. or start, then plug in.. or am i interpreting this the wrong way? is this "test mode connector" simply just a way of identifying a present (or past) CEL? because i have no CEL on my car, and never have, except for once when i plugged both those connectors in thinking hey that stuffs unplugged, that can be good, huh?.. then realized exactly what they must be when the car didnt run quite right and the CEL started flashing at me.... I will read thru the FSM over again when im not so close to catatonic, but a *tiny* drop of somplification would be appreciated. somehow, i find that interpreting technical writings like these FSMs are is much easier in hard copy, so i need to print that page range out. ohh god, just looking at it on the screen for so long has my head splitting. I think i can figure this out, but if anyone wants to make it any easier, or if i am misunderstanding something i am reading and you think you might set me straight, id appreciate anyones feedback.. shawn

and down here, in south florida, the land of drive-it-till-it-LITERALLY-falls-apart, any little scrap is appreciated :- ) just got back from my two nearest boneyards, and found a total of 6 soobs.. two legacys, uninterested.. and one front wheel drive, automatic, 87 XT6.. thought THAT was odd.... (dang, i shoulda checked the seats!!!) I found three EA82 vehicles.. one AT FWD wagon, one AT FWD sedan (loyale) and one pushbutton AWD AT gl sedan. Im going out on a limb here and assuming that all of these radiators are the same as the one in my 87 gl-10 fwd at.. all three speeds... because im looking for a radiator. there should be literally no differences, right? im also thinking of a starter and FI components. all were NA, spfi ea82s... ANYHOW.. my score was this.. in the trunk of one of the sedans i found a distibutor cap and set of spark plug wires, new in boxes, in a bag!!! yah, nothing major, but for two bucks, you cant beat it. they look like they just came off the shelf. i couldn't find a stock subaru screwdriver though... ive ALWAYS looked thru soobs in the boneyard for those, because they are such great screwdrivers.. the phillips head side fits so many screws that it shouldnt seem to.... anyway, just thought id get a couple quick confirmations. thanks shawn

Okay.. ever since i got this car it has seemed to have an odd erratic power problem.. now, ive tightened a few clamps (like the one where the intake boot goes into the throttle body, whoops!) and fixed a few things like the thiming belt, and i think a possible wobbling crankshaft acessory pulley, and its improved a bit.. i still need to do the whole plugs wires cap rotor thing, but the wires are not TOO old (~30,000 miles? not OEM at least) and the same for the plugs.. I also need to do a compression check, and a bunch of other things, but there are symptoms that are still to hazy for me to try to communicate (this is a VERY erratic problem, made hard to determine by the fact that i have the AT slushbox in it...) but i want to check all my FI components (AFM, TPS, etc..) I have downloaded the 89 loyale FSM (well, the chunk of it) that floats around here, and it has the FI info in it, but i havent pored thru that yet.. im about to now. My question is...this link in the USRM tells me all about checking ECU codes, and im wondering if i might have any to check, even though i have NEVER had a CEL on this car? (well, once, but that was because i plugged in the green timing check plug under the hood thinking, hey, it should be plugged in, right? and drove it.. then i found this forum and found out what it was :- / ) Im beginning to think that my TPS or my AFM might have an issue.. that, or i need to do a more thorough check for vacuum leaks, or something... but it could be a number of things. I dont get much time to do anything remotely mainline (like compression checks etc..) because thats all at my family's "shop" and not at my house... so im doing alot of skull work on this when there are already a few key steps (tune up and compression check, and a coolant flush) that i really need to just do.. But im trying to check something out, yanno? thanks for reading the rambling post. shawn (carey, not the admin.)

amen. i believe i made my point adequately that im not crazy about airbags either... just that seatbelts keep you strapped in place when your car is for some unanticipated reason rolling around on the ground in a manner that it was TOTALLY not intended to do..... not to mention your more standard, two-vehicle collision accident... Like i said, I used to say i was religious about wearing my seatbelt until i rolled a car... ever since that day, i have really KNOWN what it meant to be religious about wearing my seatbelt.

must say i like the gold.. and im surprised to hear myself saying that. but its true.. i think the gold rims fit that car better... but theyre definitely too small. i think there is enough black/white contrast on the car that the black/silver contrast on the wheels is too stark.