daeron

im guessing worn out clutch plate.. when youre running at say, 40mph in second gear, and you punch the motor hard to max it out... say for instance, youre passing someone, and downshift into second, when you engage the clutch, does it seem to rev the engine more than it is accelerating the car? when your clutch plate starts wearing loose, it doesnt grab as well.. so if you put motor into it, it will slip a bit... and you continue to gain speed, but your engine revs beyond what it ordinarily would.. then you can take some throttle out of it, and the clutch grabs on tighter, RPMs match what they should at that speed. i am describing some potential symptoms of a worn clutch plate, they all act like this in one way or another but every clutch blows out differently. i had a datsun once that i bought with a bad clutch, and it got to a point where whenever i put in too much gas pedal, in to low a gear, the engine would just rev like the clutch was in, almost.... Eventually that clutch plate wore down to the point where it destroyed a couple of the rivets that hold the friction material onto the plate structure, and the plate shattered, which jammed my clutch engaged... meaning, i push in the pedal, the clutch doesnt give way at all.. so no starting the car, basically.. except in neutral. i had to do that, then get someone to push me until i could slip it into first and drove home in first. (this was before i really knew about synchro-shifting) quite likely yer problem, but im more of just a car guy (primarily datsun Z/roadster) than a subaru sage, so if im off base then someone here might give you a more car-specific problem than i have.

okay, vehicle is a front wheel drive, auto with AC. it has a stock AM/FM 20watt stereo in it, and a trip computer. I want to put a real stereo in it, one that i already have, and i want to spend no money on doing so (i already have the needed wiring terminals, etc.) Im actually anticipating running my own rear speaker wire, and also the front, so i am leaving the stock stereo harness intact and bypassing it (except maybe for power, i havent decided that yet) My question is, im planning on putting the new stereo in the space below the entire stereo/storage hole/trip computer area.. the plastic piece has already been cut in half and it should be simple enough to secure, but has anyone else ever installed a real stereo in the normal spot, without having to relocate the trip computer controls? Also, the computer display is no longer backlit.. could i disassemble that unit and replace a bulb? Another thing, with this auto gearbox.. the power is just nonexistent. How much HP did this motor have stock? its an ea82 with the spfi on it, non turbo. Would gutting the catalytic converter and installing a k&n air filter produce much of an effect in giving me a little more power? im not looking to smoke anything here, but maximum acceleration is just a little low for my comfort, and id like to have another 5-10% more power is all. I love the car, and it runs great, but rust is getting it bad so im not contemplating sinking much into it. I also have a datsun 280Z thats been my baby for six years now, but i havent driven it in almost two because i had a small electrical crisis, and that persuaded me to park it until such time as i could fix the myriad other upgrades/repairs it needed. I got the soob from my brother for free, all it needed was a timing belt. another issue is the AC switch. The switch mechanism is functional, but the ears that hold the screws that attach it have broken off and i have to punch the buttons to get em to push. I have gotten the switch itself out of a car in the junkyard, and am assuming i just attach the vacuum hoses into the back as they are on my car (donor car 92 loyale.) Is there any way for me to pry out the push-buttons that are the face, with the words on them? all of mine are broken from being punched at for so long (myself and a previous owner guilty) I tried to remove it, but it seemed like it might be integral with the entire guage pod hood. I just need the pushbuttons, not the temp selector... One final question.. there is a small pulser coil, or something, that hangs on a bracket over the front face of the AC compressor pulley. I buggered mine up a bit, and had never had it lined up right because i lost the proper bolts for it and pegged it in place with some temps.. and then the wire got bit by the belt. I just replaced it, and my AC is blowing MUCH colder now!! it barely functioned before, and in the muggy heat of the day in south florida, it was virtually useless.. when it would blow cold, it was cool enough outside that i didnt wanna waste the gas... but now it seems great.. so wtf is that thing?! ive never seen anything like it on an AC compressor before..... Also, the AC gives the car a tendency to run a little hot sometimes.. and once in a while, if its on in a parking lot say, the car will stall. usually it involves steering, braking, and not hitting the gas all at once with the AC on, and the motor just says, unh-uh.. obviously, dont use the AC in this situation, but does this bode well or ill for anything? anyone experience this problem, is it common, if so, is there a fix? Thanks for reading the long post, but i finally found a good soobie board due to a crisis with my crankshaft pulley that i just finished dealing with, and these are questions i wanted to pose to the sagacious subaru simians here on the board... you guys (and ladies) seem like a great bunch of folks... like the distillation of what used to be the Good datsun guys, and the volkswagen guys, but more than just that. i can see how a community like this has arisen out of these beatifully built, ugly little cars..... and im sorry, but this GL-10 just screams japanese bleh sedan :- ) it looks like a trapezoid on wheels, almost like a japanese volvo. I love it to death though.. the thing, from what i can tell, only weighs about 2400+ pounds, right?

i dont know on a subaru particularly, but look at the radiator fins, and see if you can get an idea how thick they are.. one row is usually about an inch or so, and if its approx. 1" thick, then its probly single row.. if about 2" then probly two row. you can get radiator flush solution too. Permatex makes one that comes in a gold can (i think) that is really super stuff.. you empty your radiator and block, add this with a full load of water, run it for a few minutes, and drain and flush again. that helps eliminate partial clogs and obstructions in water channels throughout the whole motor. i am NOT a subbie wizard, so if anyone on this message board says anything against a particular flush solution, listen to them.. some of those products are rather potent chemicals. installing an oil cooler is a simple procedure.. ideally, there is a small adapter you screw onto the oil filter, and it taps the oil off into one hose, to an oil cooler, then back through another hose into the filter... or vice versa.. then you just mount the cooler somewhere. its never a bad idea to do, but change your thermostat and flush the radiator first. you can also have pros flush the coolant system, which is really the best way to clear out the block.

no, i actually brought a piece of pipe and tried that in the lug studs, but there was too much play in the drive train, and the bolt had been rust-locked in place. rope in the cylinder worked best, i wound up using said pipe as a five foot cheater bar to do the trick :- ) i saw holes, but they were not directly accessible.. on the auto (my car) there is structure on the front face of it, that CAN be approached at right angles... but it wasnt sufficient to hold it in place to torque it down, or else my pulley never would have loosened in the first place :- ) I used a piece of rope there too. thanks for the help.

There are two different water pumps. I know this because i just replaced my own, on MY free subbie, that I got for putting a timing belt on it :- ) The two water pumps are identical, except for the "deck height" which means your pulley wont align. you got the tall one, you need the short one. i forget what the numbers are.. i think one was 100 and one 110 mm or something like that.... but that was virtually the only difference. about half the stores i called just quoted me a price, and half asked me which pump i needed, even though i told them, i dunno, auto, blah blah blah, you cant tell ME which one i need? I actually signed up here to find my answer, and did so.. but it still took a somewhat informed and somewhat lucky guess. call all the parts stores in your area, just as an experiemnt. dont tell them about the difference, and find out which ones tell you. then you know the good parts stores. :- )

get a rope, huh? I suppose i can try to spin the flywheel some more and see if i can find anything on the surface, but i noticed nothing to notch into on whatever amount of the flywheel i actually saw. the rope idea i think might end up being my best option, but thanks for the advice, it was exactly what i needed.

okay, i found a 92 loyale in the junkyard with a complete motor, and was trying to get the crankshaft pulley off.. i only grabbed a handful of tools, and when all was said and done i couldnt stop the engine from spinning.. i thought on my car that the handbrake ran the front wheel brakes, so i put the transmission in gear, and pulled the handbrake, but the motor still spun. I was by myself so i couldnt confirm that the wheels were spinning, but my basic question is this: how can i stop the engine from spinning on this car in the junkyard? its sitting up on blocks, its a five speed, and the whole drivline is there. the handbrake felt like it was functioning when i pulled the lever, and it seemed tight, but i couldnt confirm this. Im no dummy, i shouldnt have had any problems with this.. but i was out there alone, and didnt have anything i could use to stop the wheel from spinning (bar in the lug or something). how can i immobilize the engine? i looked in the peephole in the bellhousing and saw only a clean flywheel edge, nothing to bite onto with a screwdriver... do i need to pull the starter out and wedge something in the teeth of the flywheel? im trying to do this as quickly and with as few tools as possible, so the more of a detailed answer i can get, the better. thanks all. incidentally, how hard would it be for me to take the driveline out of this 92 loyale (5spd 2wd) and put it into my GL10? (auto 2wd) and the gauge pod? i have the digital gauge pod, and hate it... thanks for the help.

i have an 87 GL-10 that has large rust-holes at the bottom corner on either side of the rear window.. so i can see EXACTLY why MY fuel door doesnt operate (didnt, i actually fixed it about an hour before seeing this post) The cable that opens the trunk and the cable that opens the fuel door are coaxial; the outer sleeve operates the fuel door and the inner ire opens the trunk. on my car, the collar that held the outer sleeve onto the fuel door lever had broken. I safety wired the two bits back together, and it seems to be working fine now.. but ive just been reaching into my rust hole and pulling the fuel door lever manually. the rust holes proved a boon, in a sense. shawn

well, im gonna check my local junkyards first, but thanks for the offer. I'll bear that in mind if I am still looking in a few days, otherwise id rather not bother with the hassle of shipping a piece of iron halfway across the continent.. but it sure beats dealer new price, whatever it could be :- )

thats about what i figured, but i wanted some confirmation from those who know subaru motors better than i. incidentally, has everyone here noticed that subaru spelled backwards is U R A BUS? my dad bought an xt6 new in 1989 and was tempted to get that as a license plate, but never did. of course, that was my first thought on getting this car...

hey folks, i just had to replace the eccentric roll pin that holds the crankshaft accessory pulley in place. Unfortunately, i was intelligent enough to hammer the new pin in place with the pulley sitting on the concrete.. and of course, i cracked the lip about 3" along the diameter. needless to say, i need a new pulley now.. but my question is, what engine/vehicles can i get one from? I have an 87 GL-10, with a 1.8liter, SPFI non turbo pancake..... it is an ea82 i believe... I dont know how much luck im going to have finding a subbie of this vintage in any of my local boneyards at all, so ANY info anyone might have on what pulleys i could potentially use would be GREATLY appreciated. I deliver pizzas for a living, and i had no choice but to reassemble the thing as is, and must drive on it until I repair it or it breaks. the dealer quoted me $147 for a new pulley, and thats just, no. thanks in advance for the help. shawn

hi all. after posting here, i found a post on another forum which enlightened me. http://www.forumsubaru.com/t1687-replacing-waterpump-help.html this post informed me that the two pumps are interchangeable, and the difference lies in the pulley.. the 110 mm pump has a pulley that slips on over the fan studs, and the 105mm pulley bolts onto the pump, and has studs for the fan on it. apparently, either pump works as long as you have the appropriate pulley.

I drive a 1987 GL-10 with a 1.8 SPFI SOHC motor.. this is My first subbie, and ive done the timing belt, alternator, brakes, rear bearings, and starter already.. and now i need a new water pump, it would appear. I call the store and the guy asks me which one i need.... even though i thought he was supposed to TELL me that, not ASK me... but apparently there are two different deck heights?? and one is 105 mm and the other 110 mm (i think. the difference is 5 mm, i remember that for sure.) so, how do i know which one i need??? i deliver pizzas for a living, and have to call out tomorrow to fix this, so i need an answer asap.. and as always, all help and consideration is deeply appreciated. oh yah, its a non-turbo. shawn