daeron

really, its the cleaning that makes you happy in the end..... Hey!!! While you're at it, why not swap SPFI onto it!!?? *runs and hides*

heh, honestly, I typed all that, posted the message, then looked at your user info and realized that you probably knew ALL of that already, and felt like a superfluous schmuck :-p Good to hear you had forgotten aboot the GL-10 seat, at least I serve SOME purpose

Are those lower control arms that are pictured right there? You replaced the lower control arms and your camber problem has not gone away? What about the Tension/compression rod? Usually on the soob it is called a radius rod I think, but its the bar that goes back at an angle towards the rear of the car and towards the middle. If that were somehow whacked out so that the chassis mounting point were bent towards the center of the car (as it would be on an impact like this) then it would pull the bottom of the strut INwards, and show you the same camber problem you have. Is your toe-in set correctly???? I know when the toe-in gets mis adjusted, it starts effecting the camber of the vehicle... make sure your alignment guy adjusts toe-in to spec, and that you still have your camber problem, before bending or flexing anything. Good luck with this... its NOT an easy issue to track down. I WAS going to suggest getting the lower control arm off of another car and swapping it on to see if that helps, but it appears you've already done that.

Listen-- I cannot get a photo right now because my camera isn't working.. but I GUARANTEE YOU that you still have a problem with your headlight circuit. My stock headlights, with the stock bulb, are far far brighter than what you posted. I have NEVER had a problem with my headlights, other than the spread they offer.. which would simply take some driving lights aimed low and slightly to the outside of the road to fix. Jes, have you tried replacing your headlight relays with the bosch style? Have you considered running new wire to everything? Please, do me a favor. Hotwire the headlights, straight off of the battery, temporarily. Just the low beams. Start the car with the headlights hot wired directly to a battery, get in, and see how bright it is. If they are STILL rather dim, when connected directly to a battery, then I will shut up.. I simply cannot see how anyone needs more light than the stock units put out. When I turn on my low beams, they are WHITE. Not yellow in color, white. High beams too. They look more like your driving lights than your headlights, and remember, I am still using 9004 bulbs. I don't know if it is possible that your Subaru realsy are no good, or if it is the wiring, or what... but I cannot help thinking that all this fuss is not necessary. In addition, if you DO have a wiring issue, then it should be addressed before installing higher drain devices into the circuit... If all else fails, try installing a pair of the four-prong relays for each headlight, right behind the headlight, and run fresh power supply wires to them, being signaled by the existing high and low beam hot wires. You might even be able to find a single relay with two power outputs and two signal inputs, to use one single relay behind each light.. or try marrying the two high beams and low beams each onto one relay. What I am saying is, I REALLY REALLY think your stock lights are nowhere near as bright as they should be. I know you know how to work with electrical systems, and I read that you went through everything.. but I KNOW my lights are brighter than yours. EDIT I just finished reading the thread and saw that you did try that with one side... did you attach both hot and ground wires directly to the battery?? SOMEthing is not right with your lights, im telling you. When I hold my high-beam switch to the spot that turns on both high and low beams, I could not ask for any more light on the road.

Try keeping your eyes peeled for a GL-10. The driver seat on the GL-10 has a height adjustment that is the Bee's Knees, let me tell you. (and I am only 5'8") The window problem is almost certainly not a mechanical one; the relay contacts underneath the passenger seat go bad over time. Loyale2.7Turbo replaced his with a bosch unit and it works great for him; I haven't gotten around to it yet. (To be honest, I tried once, but I think I was misconceived in what I was replacing; I got a "power window" control unit that sure looked like a relay, but I suspect that was just a switching relay and there is a main power relay that is the actual culprit.) I run 185 series tires on my GL-10, and my rear end has been sagging forever.. never had a problem with interference, weird. It seems to me that the car is infinitely more stable on the road in a cross-wind with the 185s over the 175s. Unless you are going to get MWE or GCK axles, what about trying this? Go to the junkyard, find a couple axles that look like stockers, and are good and solid, remove them. Take the boots off, clean them thoroughly in hot water and detergent, clean the joints out, re-pack them with grease. Treat the outside of the axle boots with a rubber dressing, reinstall them, and keep those axles around until yours start clicking. Nice score, though! sounds like you know how to keep it on the road well enough already

my thoughts... Take the EGR solenoid you have, and apply voltage to it in your hand. Try to blow through the passage where the vacuum signal would travel. I am wondering if you have an obstruction in your EGR solenoid... The decrease of flow seems to be pointing towards the solenoid being problematic, and a piece of schmutz in there could very well be influencing vacuum signal flow sporacidally (meaning it could pass tests sometimes, and fail others, and still pass the visual inspection yet not be quite enough to be fully functional.) Visual testing aside... Your emissions answers are all to be found in a gallon of denatured alcohol, purchased at your local Home Depot. Run your gas tank almost empty, put the alcohol in, drive around like a bat out of hell for 10 minutes, go get smogged, pass with flying colors, go fill your tank up with good old dino-juice (and corn syrup, heh) and go buy yourself a steak for passing emissions. When that tank gets low, fill it up one more time to make sure you dilute and burn the alcohol left in it. Regarding the CA emissions/bureaucracy SNAFU... Those cats have a hell of a balancing job to do. Old car owners are virtually ignored in that entire balancing act. Why don't you organize and speak up? In all that I have read about CA and emissions standards over the years, I haven't heard a single word about a citizens group concerned with older car enthusiasts, and how these new standards (which seriously SHOULD be aimed at effecting the most vehicles and impacting as little civilian freedom as possible) essentially destroy what for some is a hobby, but for many of us is our survival instinct: re-using old cars. To keep a car out of the landfill is to keep another car from being manufactured. If a vehicle passes a sniffer test, then it is not polluting beyond a certain given standard. ARE there any groups of people fighting for "grandfather" right for older cars? The logic is impeccable: far fewer older model cars on the road EACH DAY; sniffer testing to ensure that the vehicles still meet emissions qualification; silencing the largest group of citizens concerned about their rights being trampled upon; AND re-use of existing manufactured goods rather than going to the wasteful effort of building more cars. Almost a decade into the 21st century, we STILL havent seen widespread MPG beyond 35. My uncle's 72 B210 got 35-40 MPG.. how many old subarus have done the same? If the car doesn't pollute, that should be the main point. So my question to all of the Sacramento-bashers is, how much have you taken part in any organized effort to influence the decisions of your democracy to better reflect your will, as a part of the population? Democracy only works when your voice is heard, and don't go giving me the $$$ excuse. 1 million Californians who love their Datsuns, their Subarus, their hot rods, their pony cars, their muscle cars... That adds up to a significant voting bloc, and there are BOUND to be plenty of others with money to help support the cause. What have YOU done?

CAPITAL! Now, don't get me wrong, the new engine would be a great thing to have... but like I tried to point out in my PM, the sheer ego boost you get every time you hit the gas should provide so much therapy, that even if the silly thing somehow blows up in a year and you just say "SCREW you people, I am going CCR this time!" the gains in metal health over that year will offset the cost of a new motor. I vote baby 116K motor. Don't forget, the term "rebuilding a motor" is a VERY elastic one, and can be stretched to cover any number of jobs. Taking a longblock, replacing oil seals, head gaskets, oil pump, water pump, and anything else that needs it, can CERTAINLY fit under that umbrella... Just pretend the rest was disassembled and spec'd out perfectly fine as-is.

I know this is a subaru bubbling into the coolant we are talking about here.... ..but have you done a compression check? I am sending you a PM with my argument in favor of fixing your "seasoned" longblock over installing a new unit.

I agree with GD; unplug the fuel pump, start the car, let it die, pull all four spark plugs, and test again. Your previous results, while they may well wind up being very similar to what you find, may just as well be complete hogwash. You could have 140 in the first cylinder tested, and 170 on the final one tested, if they are all dry.. and thats 30 PSI difference, out of 170.. thats well over 10 percent. My P/S head gasket was blown, and my numbers were 180/185, 150/155 (driver front/rear, passenger front/rear) The differential between the numbers is the important part, not "all four cylinder reading above X." I have heard people on this board claim to have running engines that were perfectly smooth, with not loss of power, when testing a little over 100 PSI on all four cylinders... but that figure was even for all four cylinders. For the record, any time I run a compression check, I check each cylinder three or four times before going on to the next one, and I record EACH measurement. I average my measurements from each cylinder to get a "number" and I also discard any figure out of line from the others on each individual cylinder test. IE, i test #1 cyl.. 160 PSI, 163 PSI, 120 PSI.. I ignore that 120 and test one fourth time, get 165 psi, average out to about 163.

So, who here thinks that they aren't burning all the fuel in their combustion chamber? Who thinks that automakers would not have jumped on this kind of tech to gain that extra MPG for EPA testing purposes? You need strong spark. Strong spark comes from a coil.. clean spark comes from a spark plug. Weak spark, means a bad or inadequate coil. Dirty spark, replace spark plugs. An animated GIF doesn't automatically make it burn any more fuel; it still gets the same voltage, and its still going to blow up. Did the tuner magazine try a new set of stock spec NGK plugs for comparison? I will believe magical spark plugs work the day I see impressive dyno results from an electrical supercharger.

thanks for pointing out rotational direction, IIRC thats been mentioned as a sticking point before. I've got some boneyard time ahead of me with a multimeter anyhow.. I have the SPFI info handy but what are the specs for the MPFI unit thats different? I know it had a second plug on it but really don't know enough to compare to a potential substitute by any means..

sounds alot like a head gasket, but lets look at other possibilities... The bad threads is an obvious problem. Have you considered repairing them to get a decent compression check? I would also recommend a new radiator cap be checked. How are the basics on this engine? ignition hardware, etc.. did all the running gear come from a known running motor? If you aren't sealing a spark plug well in #1 then the idle can't be TOO fantastic.. so there is enough excuse for a poor run condition (due to low cylinder compression) without it necessarily being a blown head gasket. I don't like to point the finger at a head gasket without a compression or leak-down check to confirm. The intake gaskets are as failure-prone as the head gaskets, (at least on the SPFI...?) so there are plenty of places air could be introduced. Checking for steam in a dark area with a laser pointer might help pinpoint any leaks, and any leak could cause air introduction. HTH

I've been thinking about this...... I haven't run out to the junkyard with a multimeter, but all throttle plates open up about the same... Why can't we just find a TPS, say, off of a Nissan that would work??? There HAS to be a valid substitute for the Subaru part on this one; its just Hitachi FI and LOTS of cars use Hitachi components... I know an early 90s maxima uses a two plug style TPS, with three wires on one plug for throttle position, and then two wires separate for an idle switch. I'm not sure what the resistance values would be on that PARTICULAR unit... but what about a legacy piece? Any thoughts? I have to borrow a good DMM from my dad to get to work on my Z car sometime soon anyhow, so if I can remember to take it on a trek to the JY I will do some investigating, but I'd love to hear criticism (or support) for this idea.

http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm find the chunks of the EA82 FSM. Golden.

Okay, so I am getting "check the fan relay," "vacuum leak" and "change the switch and take a look." I think it goes without saying that checking the relay is the first, easiest step; thanks. The cruise is indeed the factory setup, and since I have never seen a diagram with labels to indicate for certain what it is I cannot say, but there is an electrical thingamabob on the passenger strut tower that has a vacuum line going TO it, from the purge solenoid, and then out of it into the accumulator canister, thence into the cabin. I have always known that it was a pump (why?) or something else that was cruise-related, but wasn't sure 100% that it was a pump, because its being supplied with vacuum... whatever. I REALLY do not think there are any vacuum leaks... the sounds I hear when I do use the switch (turn it to defrost and heat, and it keeps my windhield clear) are as normal as they ever were, and I can hear the blender door and diverter operate and go back to neutral position when I start and turn off the car.. the vacuum switching apparatus of the switch seems to be operating fully. Another possibility is that the transmission modulator is somehow causing this? I cannot see how, but the concurrent transmission problems are very hard to chalk up to this vacuum issue.. What I mean to say is, the way the trans feels it makes me wonder long and hard about how the transmission might somehow be causing this vacuum .. Problem... but not knowing jack about automatic transmissions (refuse to learn, i hate em, hate em hate em.) I don't know if that is even really possible. So... basically, I need to check the relay, and if thats good and I KNOW I don't have a break in the vacuum system somewhere else, its time to rip open the dashboard. Fun times... but thats about what I had figured. GD, I had a HELL of a time the last time I got into the dashboard of this car, and I even had a blast in the junkyard when I found a car that had already been ostly disassembled. There has GOT to be something I do wrong when I approach that job.. if it is so easy, what all do you do to free everything up? I know how to pop the center AC vent section off, I know where the retaining screws are.. I just cant move anything around to get access anywhere, and normally I don't have many problems like that! (Small hands and wrists, I can fit anywhere) Every time I've torn into the dash, I've gotten the impression I am missing something that would make things a LOT easier.. either unplugging something I am not unplugging, or undoing a certain screw that might not be so obvious to my Irish eyes..... Thanks for the replies.

I know, and I hear you and agree: a properly wired, properly selected switch is perfectly fine and safe. I just far prefer not to have an additional pushbutton for a starter. Now... you give me a bluetooth key that unlocks my doors given a certain proximity, and de-activates a disabler on the car or something.. THEN I will talk about a pushbutton starter switch. Yes, even on a rusted out subaru. THAT would be worth using Shy of that, my tastes simply lean towards relay, and I tried to make both of those points clear in the first place without going on at length.

while I would be VERY wary of repairing that vehicle for road use unless you were doing both sides from the firewall forward transplant, or something similar in its drastic nature... I think it would be a CRIME to let this be the death of the vehicle. Get some steel to weld into it and make a dedicated rig out of this sucker! Take the doors, tailgate, interior, ANYTHING "decent" off of it ind make it a doorless, heck even fenderless BUGGY out of... maybe not entirely fenderless, but do a chop job on them and lift the thing up and DO IT! I'm trying to paint a picture of what that BRAT still has plenty of potential to be.. with a ridiculous amount of steel welded to the chassis from firewall forward, and a bunch more welded around the shape that the car once was in the front, a little beaten-quality just make it a rig with battle scars! If you do not want to do this, then find someone who does to sell the shell with running engine and trans to, and then either have or sell the doors, gate, interior etc. You could possibly net as much as $700-1000 if you sell the BRAT for 500 running to someone, and the stripped for 200 or more? And DEFINITELY find ads for BRATs from the past, and get back to THEM with evidence before they get back to YOU. If the market is lean right now, then they will be HARD pressed to come up with any argument under $4k, IF you show them sales from the past. If you are researching past sales, you can conveniently IGNORE any good deals... if I were you, the discovery that the market is scarce would have me glued to my PC 24/7. google "wayback machine" for a website that has a way of searching old internet pages, and see if you can't use that to search thru old auto trader or craigslist ads.

Back story: just after I got the car I broke a hose barb off of my purge solenoid. Not having a clue what it was at the time, I simply JB welded the hose and barb back into the body of the valve, and let it be. Wise. A few months back, while in the junkyard, I snagged a spare purge solenoid. When I installed it on the car, I thought, "Gee, that has needed doing for a while, now, hasn't it Shawn?" and was pleased with myself. Unwise. Dating from then, my cruise control has not worked (properly,) My transmission has shifted horribly, up and down, and my AC switch no longer appears to work right. The data: AC Switch functions, minimally. I can hear the vacuum sound when it gets switched with the vehicle on; when I push the defrost button and have the selector to heat it is definitely routing air thru a hot heater core and onto my windshield... but there is no fan! Yes, the fuse is good, yes, I try at all speeds... something is wrong. The AC Compressor clutch does NOT engage. The AC had been getting sort of difficult to turn on* for a few weeks before it all went away, but the switch has been physically broken since I got the car; the little ears for the mounting screws are broken off and it sits, sort of recessed in its hole, and ive always had to mash the buttons hard to get them to engage. The AC switch MAY have some electrical malfunction in it? but I have no clue how to test it. I DO have a spare, but I haven't wanted to take the plunge into my dashboard without knowing that I had no vacuum problems. *by difficult to turn on, I mean that I had to smash the button a couple times, and sometimes could NOT succeed in turning it on. Cruise control, factory flavor(GL-10 baby!) Turn it on, light goes on. hit "Set" and it fails to keep throttle... BUT it TRIES. Its almost like the little vacuum motor that operates the throttle under cruise is anemic. Transmission Always had the "sticky shift into second when its cold" thing but never too awful; worst case, i push down into 2nd to shift it into 2nd, then into D and i was good to go from there. Once I forced the first shift into second, the car shifted perfectly normally. Now.... ye gods, I can't depend on being in first when I stop at a stop sign! MOST of the time it downshifts all the way... but the fact is, I have taken to shifting manually ANY time it "counts" just to be safe. The Rest: NO Check Engine light. Haven't run a D-check yet. I tried bypassing the Purge solenoid just now by connecting the manifold vacuum supply directly to the cruise control unit, AC/cabin vacuum line, and trans line. I have tried something like this before, and judging from the behavior of the AC it did nothing. I didn't test drive it because it started raining, but I'm 99% positive I did the exact same thing right after I installed the new valve and the test drive didn't show me any change. The governor gear is not applecored, the modulator is smooth as silk and looks great. The car idles like a CHAMP and I HIGHLY doubt I have any vacuum leaks... I would say I am 100% on the vacuum leaks, but I go by the adage "wise men hesitate, only fools are certain." So.... What electrical switching does the AC switch do? I can cope without cruise, and shifting manually isnt THAT bad.. but in 90 degree weather, with 90% humidity, and 0.9mph wind, 95% of the summer.... AND a stack of pizzas in the backseat, I NEED MY AC as anemic as it may be. I am NOT addicted to automotive air conditioning by any means; the soob is the first car I've had with functioning AC.. but I just can't cope with the heat coming from within the cabin as well as without. So... any thoughts?

my car had the switch issue for a long long time... click, click, click... start. Eventually it got REALLY bad. Screwdriver time when it failed... jump the hot battery wire to the solenoid terminal.. sometimes first contact, sometimes after a few tries, magic. Eventually, the solenoid burned completely, and I needed a new (junkyard) starter. Got that in, next day, get to work... click. click. click. click. I figured out myself, the hard way, how to do the relay fix. Two years, 40K miles, and about one complete calendar year of pizza delivery (~50-100 starts a day) and the relay still works fine. There are many many places this issue could arise from.. and two VORACIOUSLY opposing schools of thought. I find a pushbutton switch with no relay to be tacky, and of a certain (questionable) risk. I find a pushbutton switch with a relay, to just be tacky looking... I'm not trying to look cool. Besides, a pushbutton switch says to any potential thief "Already been hotwired--Easy!" Some say that the switch will wear out completely eventually. This happens, no big deal, i pop the hood and touch the trigger wire for my relay to the battery terminal. ALSO makes a GREAT remote starter switch, and since my "high-amp" line to the relay is constantly live, I can turn the motor over from under the hood even if the keys are miles away. WHATEVER you do, unless your starter solenoid contacts are indeed worn, you JUST need to find a way to route some 12VDC to the solenoid terminal. Choose your own adventure beyond that.

*optimistic*thought* could it be a bad timing belt, leaving one cam immobile, keeping one valve cracked open?

the behavior you've described to me leads me to wonder if the steering rack is at all possible of a failure mode in which the rack allows for slop in the steering. Does anyone know if this type of failure can occur with the power steering rack from a GL?

hunting on various subaru parts websites on the web seems to have confirmed the part number as being "RADIATOR-AY" Aye, indeed, laddie, but ye won't tell me where it came from? buggerers. :-p so that P/N once more is 645010460 and oh hey!! I found two photos from last year of one of the rads. once again, if anyone can ID this radiator for me, I would appreciate it.

How many of these posts are still accurate and up-to-date? I went though and read all the wish lists, and there may be several items I can help people with... but some posts are 2, 3 years old at this point and I have no clue if the users in question still frequent the board or not... Post edited to smile politely and request the deletion of this post

I originally posted it here, in the Stuff for Sale forum, and also some rad questions here in the "Old gen" forum, but my Uncle and I are finally getting the Subaru bits out of the warehouse he acquired some time ago. Check the other threads for info; radiators, a carb, i think some BRAT jumpseat belts, a wiper assembly, an alternator, shocks... and more. All brand new, old stock, sitting in the proverbial warehouse for 25 years. The dealership from whence they all came closed up in 83 or 84?? I prefer first contact via PM, but in case the box gets full my email is shawnmcarey@gmail.com

hunting on various subaru parts websites on the web seems to have confirmed the part number as being "RADIATOR-AY" Aye, indeed, laddie, but ye won't tell me where it came from? buggerers. :-p so that P/N once more is 645010460 and oh hey!! I found two photos from last year of one of the rads. ye GODS, I have never used the "Edit" button sixteen times in five minutes before may as well link to my photobucket album with the crappy pics that I got last year.